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VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 


MAOMILLAN    AGRICULTURAL    PROJECT    SERIES 

EDITED    BY 

RUFUS  W    STIMSON 

Supervisor  of  Vocational  Agricultural  Education  in  Massachusetts 

VOCATIONAL   AGRICULTURAL  EDUCATION 

By  RuFus  W.  Stimson 

VEGETABLE  GROWING   PROJECTS 
By  Ralph  L.  Watts 

DAIRY  FARMING   PROJECTS 
By  C.  E.  Ladd 

Other  books  in  preparation 

Farming  For  Combining  Study 

Rule-Books  Earning  and  Learning  Guide-Books 


VEGETABLE    GROWING 
PROJECTS 


BY 


RALPH   L.  WATTS 

Dean  and  Director  of  the  School  of  Agriculture  and  Experiment 

Station  of  The  Pennsylvania  State  College,  and  author 

of  Vegetable  Gardening,  Vegetable  Forcing, 

and  The  Vegetable  Garden 


THE   MACMILLAN   COMPANY 
1922 

All  rights  reserved 


PRINTFJ).,  IN    THE    UMTED    STATES    OF   AMERIf^A 


COPTBIGHT,    1922, 

By  the  MACMILLAN  COMPANY. 


Set  up  and  electrotyped.     Published  April,  1922. 


Notiuoot!  ^rcsg 

J.  S.  Gushing  Co.  —  Berwick  &  Smith  Co. 

Norwood,  Mass.,  U.S.A. 


EDITOR'S   PREFACE 


This  is  a  handbook  for  progressive  vegetable  growers. 

It  is  a  reliable  and  up-to-date  rule-book  for  both  home  gardening 
and  market  gardening.  It  springs  from  Pennsylvania,  a  state  great 
in  gardening  owing  to  nearness  to  big  cities  and  their  markets ;  and 
Dean  Watts,  its  author,  is  an  experienced  and  widely  recognized 
authority  in  these  fields. 

It  is,  also,  a  guidebook  for  studying  vegetable  growing  thor- 
oughly from  all  angles,  —  practical  and  technical,  managerial  and 
scientific.  It  applies  principles  set  forth  in  Vocational  Agricultural 
Education,  the  first  book  of  this  "  Project  Series."  By  its  open 
spacing,  it  offers  a  convenient  framework  for  listing  local  problems, 
questions,  and  plans.  This  open  spacing  should  assist  in  keeping 
help  and  self-help  of  the  learner  in  desirable  balance.  It  should 
make  the  learner  at  once  critical  and  self-reliant. 

The  open-spaced  "  Calendar  '*  of  activities,  in  particular,  should 
lighten  the  labors  of  effective  planning  for  both  gardener  and 
teacher.  The  author,  in  his  "  Explanations  and  Suggestions,"  has 
not  overstated  the  importance  of  the  reciprocally  beneficial  pro- 
cesses of  doing  as  an  aid  to  learning,  and  of  learning  as  an  aid  to  doing  ; 
nor,  of  choice  of  the  proposed  project  at  the  outset,  in  order  that 
every  move  may  be  made  to  count  toward  its  successful  outcome 
as  an  enterprise  that  is  to  be  both  productive  and  educational.  The 
"  Calendar "  outlines  summer  study  under  field  conditions,  as 
well  as  study  during  the  usual  school  year. 

A  set  of  supplementary  loose-leaf  guide  sheets,  for  gardening 
field  trips,  and  surveys,  group  practicums  and  individual  assign- 
ments, laboratory  activities,  accounting  and  business  forms,  has 


1743 


Vi  EDITOR'S  PREFACE 

been  prepared  by  Director  G.  H.  Gilbert  of  Bristol  County  Agricul- 
tural School,  Segreganset,  Massachusetts.  It  is  the  outgrowth 
of  experience  at  an  excellent  school  that  distributes  instruction 
over  projects  carried  on  with  the  aid  of  pupils  by  the  school  itself, 
projects  owned  and  carried  on  by  selected  pupils  at  the  school, 
supervised  agricultural  work  of  pupils  on  projects  of  other  approved 
farms,  and  home  projects.  This  should  be  an  aid  to  valuable  note- 
book work  the  year  around. 

This  handbook,  and  its  supporting  loose-leaf  guides,  are  in- 
tended primarily  for  pupils  in  vocational  agricultural  classes  of 
high  schools  and  of  separate,  county,  district,  and  state  schools 
that  are  benefiting  from  federal  funds  under  the  so-called  Smith- 
Hughes  Act. 

The  serious  questions  and  problems,  practicums,  and  individual 
guidance  involved  may  well  be  given  careful  attention  by  students 
in  agricultural  teacher-training  classes,  for  there  is  no  greater 
need  in  agricultural  education  than  that  of  preparing  would-be 
instructors  for  their  prospective  duties  in  detail. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  vocational  agricultural  pupils  of 
good  ability  who  cover  the  ground  indicated  by  this  handbook 
should  have  no  difficulty,  while  preparing  first  for  pleasant  and 
profitable  gardening,  in  earning,  at  the  same  time,  at  least  one  unit 
of  credit  toward  entrance  into  a  degree  course  at  any  state  agri- 
cultural college. 

RuFUS  W.  Stimson. 

January  1,  1922. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Explanations  and  Suggestions xi 

Reference  Key ,         .         .  xvii 

List  of  Illustrations           . xxi 

Acknowledgments         . xxiii 

CHAPTER  ONE 

Vegetable  Growing  Project  Calendar  or  Seasonal  Program     .  1 


CHAPTER  TWO 

SOLANACEOUS  CROP   PROJECTS 

Tomato,  Eggplant,  and  Pepper 37 

Project      I :    Growing  Tomatoes 37 

Project    II :    Growing  Eggplant 77 

Project  III :   Growing  Peppers 83 

CHAPTER   THREE 

COLE   CROP  PROJECTS 

Cabbage,  CauijIflower,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Collard,  Broccoli      .      88 

Project  IV  :   Growing  Cabbage 88 

Project    V :   Growing  Cauliflower 110 

CHAPTER   FOUR 

SALAD   CROP  PROJECTS 

Celery,  Lettuce,  Parsley,  Endive,  Corn  Salad,  Cress         .        .118 

Project    VI:   Growing  Celery 118 

Project  VII:   Growing  Lettuce 140 


VIU  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER   FIVE 
VINE   CROP   PROJECTS 

PAGE 

Cucumber,  Muskmelon,  Watermelon,  Squash,  Pumpkin         .        .  151 

Project  VIII :   Growing  Cucumbers 151 

Project     IX :   Growing  Muskmelons   . 164 

Project      X :   Growing  Watermelons 170 

Project     XI :   Growing  Squashes 173 

CHAPTER   SIX 
ROOT  CROP   PROJECTS 
Project  XII :   Growing  Root  Crops 180 

CHAPTER   SEVEN 

TUBER   CROP   PROJECTS 

Project  XIII :   Growing  Potatoes 200 

Project  XIV  :   Growing  Sweet  Potatoes 220 

CHAPTER  EIGHT 

BULB   CROP  PROJECTS 

Onion,  Cive,  Leek,  Garlic,  Shallot 228 

Project  XV:   Growing  Onions 228 

CHAPTER  NINE 
PULSE   CROP  PROJECTS 

Bean,  Pea 247 

Project    XVI :   Growing  Beans  . 247 

Project  XVII :   Growing  Peas 259 


CHAPTER  TEN 
PERENNIAL  VEGETABLE  PROJECTS 
Asparagus,  Rhubarb,  Jerusalem  Artichoke,  Globe  Artichoke     .     267 
Project  XVIII :    Growing  Asparagus  .......     267 

Project     XIX :   Growing  Rhubarb 278 


CONTENTS  ix 

CHAPTER  ELEVEN 
SWEET  CORN   PROJECT 

PAGE 

Project  XX  :   Growing  Sweet  Corn 283 

CHAPTER  TWELVE 
HOME  GARDEN   PROJECTS 
Project  XXI :   Making  the  Home  Garden 293 


EXPLANATIONS   AND   SUGGESTIONS 

Program  of  work.  —  The  project  method  of  teaching  requires  a 
definite  program  for  the  year's  work.  There  should  be  a  thorough 
understanding  and  agreement  between  the  pupil  and  the  instructor 
of  the  work  to  be  undertaken.  To  this  understanding  and  agree- 
ment the  parent,  guardian,  or  employer  should  be  a  cooperating 
party.  A  decision  must  be  reached  at  the  beginning  of  the  school 
year  regarding  the  projects  to  be  carried  through,  and  the  major 
features  in  the  program  of  work  should  be  decided  upon  as  soon  as 
possible  thereafter.  No  one  program  is  suitable  for  all  schools  or 
for  all  individuals  within  a  given  school.  Each  pupil  should  pre- 
pare a  program  of  work  that  will  be  of  maximum  benefit  to  himself 
in  the  acquirement  of  skill  in,  and  of  knowledge  relating  to,  prac- 
tical gardening.  The  skeleton  program  or  "  Calendar  "  in  Chapter 
One  should  be  of  help  in  his  program  making.  This  is  decidedly  a 
''  doing  "  book.  Gaining  the  most  helpful  information  about  veg- 
etable growing  will  depend  upon  the  actual  performance  of  real 
operations  with  real  purpose. 

Selection  of  projects.  —  The  selection  of  projects  is  the  first  and 
fundamental  step  in  making  up  a  program  of  work.  The  minor 
features  of  the  program  cannot  be  determined  until  this  question 
has  been  settled.  Should  each  pupil  have  one  or  more  projects? 
Should  he  select  Project  XXI,  INIaking  the  Home  Garden,  with 
the  sole  purpose  of  supplying  the  home  table  ?  vShould  he  conduct 
one  or  more  projects  for  commercial  purposes?  Or,  should  he 
combine  a  model  home  garden  with  one  or  more  cash  crop 
projects  ? 

If  markets  are  available,  we  would  urge  the  undertaking  of 
one  or  more  projects  as  a  business  proposition,  with  the  idea  of 

xi 


xii  EXPLANATIONS  AND  SUGGESTIONS 

making  the  greatest  possible  profit.  Such  a  motive  will  be  a  con- 
stant incentive.  It  will  stimulate  interest  and  thoroughness. 
Ordinarily,  it  is  best  not  to  undertake  more  than  two  or  three  cash 
crop  projects,  though  there  are  exceptions.  If  the  market  is  very 
limited,  then  it  may  be  desirable  to  grow  a  diversity  of  crops,  but  a 
large  number  of  crops  or  projects  increases  the  economic  risks  and 
the  difficulty  of  the  work.  It  is  preferable  to  master  thoroughly 
the  culture  of  a  few  crops  together  with  the  essentials  of  advertis- 
ing, marketing,  and  accounting. 

The  business  projects  to  be  chosen  should  be  determined  by  the 
personal  preferences  of  the  pupils  and  their  parents,  by  the  markets 
available,  by  the  adaptation  of  soil  and  climate  to  the  crops  under 
consideration,  by  the  equipment,  and  by  the  area  of  land  that  can 
be  used. 

If  possible.  Project  I,  Growing  Tomatoes,  should  be  chosen, 
because  of  the  varied  uses  and  demands  for  the  product  and  be- 
cause the  questions  following  each  sectional  discussion  relate  to  the 
science  of  tillage,  hardening  plants,  combating  insects,  etc.,  as  well 
as  to  the  practical  phases  of  each  operation.  Project  I  might 
be  considered,  for  study  and  practice  purposes,  as  the  basic  project 
of  this  text.  All  other  projects  contain  frequent  references  to  this 
project.  An  excellent  plan  in  choosing  cash  crops  would  be  to  select 
Project  I  and  one  or  more  other  projects  that  are  desirable. 

Project  XXI,  Making  the  Home  Garden,  should  appeal  to 
many  students  who  do  not  have  the  advantage  of  good  markets  or 
who  may  not  care  to  produce  vegetables  for  commercial  purposes. 
Every  farm  should  have  a  model  home  garden  as  an  aid  to  a  varied, 
well-balanced,  and  attractive  diet.  We  are  only  beginning  to  ap- 
preciate the  vitamine  values  of  garden  vegetables. 

Project  outline.  —  Every  student  should  prepare  a  complete 
project  plan.  The  basis  for  such  a  plan  will  be  found  in  the  "  Cal- 
endar "  and  questions  following  each  sectional  discussion.  ]\Iany 
other  questions  may  be  added  in  almost  every  instance,  and  ad- 


EXPLANATIONS  AND   SUGGESTIONS  xiii 

ditional  references  should  be  included.  Liberal  open  spacing  has 
been  allowed  for  supplementary  questions,  references,  and  notes 
of  local  importance. 

Principles  as  well  as  practice.  —  In  following  the  project  method 
of  teaching,  it  is  exceedingly  important  to  acquire  a  thorough  under- 
standing of  the  principles  involved,  as  well  as  the  practice  essential 
to  success.  A  knowledge  of  principles  is  the  greatest  aid  in  the 
proper  performance  of  every  operation.  There  is  almost  no  limit 
to  which  the  instructor  and  gardener  may  not  go  in  the  studying  of 
principles.  We  should  have  as  complete  knowledge  as  possible  of 
the  related  sciences  of  botany,  chemistry,  physics,  and  bacteriology, 
as  they  apply  to  the  practice  of  vegetable  gardening.  Instructors 
should  give  special  attention  to  this  phase  of  project  teaching. 

Accounts,  —  All  projects  should  be  handled  as  business  proposi- 
tions; careful  accounts  should  be  kept  of  all  transactions.  The 
gardener  should  know  at  the  end  of  the  season  the  exact  costs  for 
fertilizer,  seeds,  supplies  of  all  kinds;  and  also  the  cost  of  labor, 
placing  a  value  on  his  own  time,  and  the  cost  of  marketing.  He 
will  then  be  able  to  determine  the  profits  realized  on  the  projects. 
As  a  student  he  will  thus  gain  valuable  training  and  experience  in 
bookkeeping  and  in  interpretation  of  farming  figures. 

Records.  —  A  complete  record  should  be  kept  of  all  operations. 
From  the  teaching  standpoint  alone,  too  much  emphasis  cannot  be 
placed  on  the  importance  of  detailed  records.  If  further  vegetable 
gardening  is  attempted  any  time  in  the  future,  the  records  will  be 
found  to  be  of  great  value.  Photographic  records  of  the  accom- 
plishments are  of  special  interest. 

Reports.  —  Pupils  should  make  written  reports  of  their  work 
from  time  to  time,  and  upon  the  completion  of  each  project  a  com- 
plete report  on  the  year's  work  should  be  filed  in  the  school  library. 

Laboratory  exercises.  —  Instructors  will  find  it  necessary  to 
conduct  certain  laboratory  exercises,  in  addition  to  the  regu- 
lar project  work.     These  may  be  soil  studies,  germination  tests, 


xiv  EXPLANATIONS  AND   SUGGESTIONS 

botanical  investigations  of  vegetables,  seed  sowing,  transplanting, 
studies  of  injurious  insects  and  plant  diseases,  spraying,  etc.  Every 
instructor  sliould  prepare  a  schedule  of  such  laboratory  exercises 
as  a  means  of  adding  interest,  understanding,  and  zest  to  regular 
l)roject  work.  The  Gilbert  ''  Guides  "  referred  to  in  the  *'  Cal- 
endar "  sliould  be  useful  in  this  connection. 

Practicums.  —  Instructors  will  find  that  it  is  important  to  con- 
duct certain  practicums,  or  work  affording  preliminary  practice, 
under  the  closest  supervision.  In  most  instances  the  project  plant- 
ings will  be  made  at  the  homes  of  the  pupils,  but  a  certain  amount  of 
practice  work  for  the  class  as  a  whole,  either  at  the  school  or  at 
some  other  convenient  point,  is  almost  indispensable  as  a  means  of 
avoiding  many  mistakes.  It  is  much  more  effective  to  show  a  pupil 
how  to  set  plants  or  sow  seed  than  to  tell  him,  and  some  operations 
can  be  shown  a  small  group  almost  as  effectively  as  an  individual. 
There  can  be  all  sorts  of  simple  demonstration  work  by  the  instruc- 
tor in  the  schoolroom  and  outdoors.  It  may  be  best,  in  some  lo- 
calities, to  maintain  a  demonstration  garden  at  the  school,  where 
most  of  the  operations  may  be  performed  in  advance  of  the  work 
at  the  homes. 

Inspection  trips.  —  Inspection  trips  to  the  market  gardens  and 
the  gardens  of  the  pupils  should  be  taken  occasionally.  A  study  of 
well-conducted  commercial  operations,  early  in  the  year,  will  be 
found  especially  helpful. 

Exhibits.  —  Exhibits  of  the  products  grown  should  be  made  when 
the  crops  are  in  best  condition  to  be  shown.  Vegetable  displays, 
when  skillfully  managed,  always  stimulate  community  interest  in 
the  work  of  the  school,  and  they  are  also  of  great  educational  value 
to  the  pupils. 

Judging  vegetables.  —  A  thorough  knowledge  of  vegetables  is 
best  ()l)taine(l  by  judging  them.  This  work  should  be  done  as  a 
regular  laboratory  exercise  and  also  in  connection  with  exhibits. 
Score  cards  or  instructions  for  scoring  may  be  obtained  from  the 


EXPLANATIONS  AND   SUGGESTIONS  XV 

United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  and  also  from  the  Agri- 
cultural Colleges. 

Early  plants  —  where  to  grow  them.  —  It  is  not  feasible  or  even 
possible  for  all  pupils  to  grow  their  own  plants  at  their  homes.  In 
many  schools,  it  is  probably  best  to  make  hotbeds  and  cold  frames 
at  the  school,  under  the  direction  of  an  instructor  who  will  also 
supervise  the  growing  of  the  plants.  Each  pupil  can  have  whatever, 
space  is  needed  and  then  the  plants  may  be  taken  to  the  homes  and 
set  out  at  the  proper  time.  There  are  many  arguments  in  favor  of 
this  plan. 

A  special  explanation.  —  In  Root  Crop  Project  XII,  there  is 
almost  an  entire  absence  of  references,  except  cross  references 
in  this  volume.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  there  are  so  many 
root  crops  that  a  multiplicity  of  references  would  be  necessary  to 
cover  the  entire  field.  Pupils  will  readily  find  the  information  de- 
sired in  references  C,  L,  and  W-VG  (see  Reference  Key),  and 
in  the  numerous  bulletins  that  are  available.  The  same  may  be 
said  of  Project  XXI,  Making  the  Home  Garden. 

How  to  use  this  book.  —  This  book  is  intended  to  serve  as  a 
guide  in  studying  and  conducting  vegetable  gardening  projects. 
The  mind  of  the  pupil  should  be  concentrated  on  the  thing  to  be 
accomplished.  All  effort  in  seeking  information  should  be  cen- 
tered, for  the  time  being,  on  this  one  thing.  In  no  instance  should 
the  chapter  be  studied  as  chapters  are  usually  studied.  The  sec- 
tions, indicated  by  numbers,  are  natural  divisions  of  the  projects 
and  each  section  raises  a  number  of  questions  that  should  be  an- 
swered before  proceeding  with  that  part  of  the  project. 

Only  the  most  salient  points  are  discussed  in  this  book  and  it  is 
expected  that  students  will  make  free  use  of  the  vast  amount  of 
literature  relating  to  vegetable  gardening. 


REFERENCE   KEY 

Reference  books.  —  In  all  references  used  in  this  book,  letters 
are  employed  instead  of  the  titles  of  the  books.  The  letter  W  al- 
ways means  this  particular  book,  Vegetable  Growing  Projects,  and 
the  numerals  used  with  W  refer  to  the  page  number.  For  example, 
W  :  14  refers  to  this  book,  page  14 ;  W-VG  :  10  refers  to  Vegetable 
Gardening  by  Watts,  page  10 ;  L  :  25  to  Productive  Vegetable  Gar- 
dening  by  Lloyd,  page  25  ;  and  C  :  50  to  Garden  Farming  by  Corbett, 
page  50,  etc.  Many  other  books  might  be  included,  but  the  list 
is  sufficiently  complete  to  meet  the  needs  of  most  pupils.  In  fact, 
if  funds  are  very  much  limited,  the  last  three  volumes  named  above, 
or  any  one  of  them,  with  the  first,  will  serve  the  purpose.  SH  refers 
to  Stevens  and  Hall's  Diseases  of  Economic  Plants,  Revised  Edi- 
tion, 1921. 

A  Allen,  C.  L.  —  Cabbages,  Cauliflower,  etc. ;  The  Orange  Judd  Com- 

pany 


B  Beattie,  W.  R.  —  Celery  Culture;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 

C  Corbett,  L.  C.  —  Garden  Farming ;  Ginn  and  Company 


CL  Crosby,  C.  R.,  and  Leonard,   M.   D.  —  Manual  of  Garden  Insects 

The  Macmillan  Company 


Fi  Fitz,  James  —  Sweet  Potato  Culture;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 


REFERENCE   KEY  XIX 

S-B         Sevey,  G.  C.  —  Bean  Culture;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 

S-P  Sevey,  G.  C.  —  Peas  and  Pea  Culture;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 

Sp  Spillman,  W.  J.  —  Farm  Science;  World  Book  Company 


SH  Stevens,  F.  L.,  and  Hall,  J.  G.  —  Diseases  of  Economic  Plants;  The 

Macmillan  Company,  1921 


St  Stimson,  R.  W.  —  Vocational  Agricultural  Education  by  Home  Proj- 

ects; The  Macmillan  Company 


Tra  Tracey,  W.  W.  —  Tomato  Culture;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 

Trp  Troop,  J.  —  Melon  Culture;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 


V  Vivian,   A.  —  First  Principles  of  Soil  Fertility;  The  Orange  Judd 

Company 


W  Watts,  R.  L.  —  Vegetable  Groiving  Projects;  this  book 

W-VF  Watts,  R.  L.  —  Vegetable  Forcing;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 

W-VG  Watts,  R.  L.  —  Vegetable  Gardening ;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 

Wi  Wilkinson,  A.  E.  —  Sweet  Corn ;  The  Orange  Judd  Company 


XX  REFERENCE   KEY 

Bulletins  and  other  references.  —  Large  numbers  of  bulletins, 
circulars,  and  reports  of  the  various  agricultural  colleges  and  agri- 
cultural experiment  stations  and  of  the  United  States  Department 
of  Agriculture,  relating  to  vegetable  gardening,  may  be  obtained 
free  of  charge  upon  request.  It  did  not  seem  desirable  to  include 
any  of  them  in  the  list  of  references,  because  in  so  many  instances 
the  supply  is  soon  exhausted  and  possibly  replaced  by  new  editions. 
Every  possible  effort  should  be  made  to  secure  such  bulletins,  cir- 
culars, and  reports  as  will  be  valuable  in  conducting  project  work, 
and  letters  for  references  should  be  assigned  for  the  sake  of  conven- 
ience. Additions  of  suitable  books  on  vegetable  gardening  topics 
should  also  be  made  to  the  school  library  from  time  to  time. 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


Map  showing  vegetable  growing  industry  in  the  United  States 

FIGUHE 
1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 
15. 
16. 
17. 
18. 
19. 
20. 
21. 
22. 
23. 
24. 
25. 
26. 
27. 
.28. 
29. 
30. 
31. 
32. 
33. 
34. 
35. 
36. 
37. 


A  successful  crop  of  New  Jersey  cantaloupes 

Bonny  Best  tomato 

Cold  frame      .... 

Cold  frames  well  ventilated     . 

Firming  the  soil  for  seed  sowing 

Marking  the  rows  for  seed  sowing 

Sowing  seed  from  an  envelope 

Equipment  for  making  paper  pots 

Making  paper  pot  . 

Making  paper  pot   . 

Making  paper  pot  . 

Tomato  plants  in  a  paper  and  an  earthen  pot 

Equipment  for  sowing  and  transplanting 

Using  the  spotting  board 

Holes  made  by  the  use  of  a  spotting  board  and  dibber 

Inexpensive  garden  tools 

Useful  hand  tools    . 

Tomato  worm 

Assortment  of  Parcel  Post  packages 

New  York  Improved  eggplant 

Various  types  of  eggplants 

Wilted  eggplants 

Pepper  plants 

Jersey  Wakefield  cabbage 

Cabbage  plants  for  seed  purposes 

Flat  of  seedlings 

A  flat  of  cabbage  plants 

Transplanting  cabbage    . 

Wilting  due  to  cabbage  maggot 

Cabbage  worm 

Cabbage  aphis  —  infested  leaf 

Club-root  of  cabbage 

Brussels  sprouts 

Head  of  Pe  Tsai  or  Chinese  cabbage 

Head  of  Snowball  cauliflower 

Winter  Queen  celery 

Plows  for  the  ridging  of  celery 


Frontispiece 

PAGE 

35 
41 


xxii  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIGURE  PAGE 

38.  Trenching  celery 139 

39.  A  cold  frame  of  lettuce 145 

40.  A  perfect  stand  of  lettuce 147 

41.  Various  types  of  squashes 177 

42.  Squashes  and  pumpkins           . 177 

43.  A  type  of  turnip-shaped  radish 182 

44.  Oblong-shaped  radishes 184 

45.  Long  Cardinal  radishes 184 

46.  Early  Model  beets 186 

47.  Salsify  seedHngs 188 

48.  Roots  of  salsify 189 

49.  Various  types  of  carrots 190 

50.  Kohl-rabi 191 

51.  Swiss  chard 193 

52.  Spinach  and  beet  leaf  miner ^         .  194 

53.  Home  hampers 196 

54.  Vegetables  in  cold  frames 198 

55.  Potato  leaf  in  cross  section 212 

56.  An  efficient  spraying  machine 214 

57.  Potatoes,  sprayed  and  unsprayed    .......  215 

58.  Potato  flea  beetle 218 

59.  A  basket  of  onions           .         .         ; 232 

60.  Onion  sets  of  various  types  and  sizes 237 

61.  Onion  seedlings        .         .         .     •    . 239 

62.  Preparing  for  seed  sowing 252 

63.  Distributing  the  seed 253 

64.  Firming  the  soil  over  the  seed 254 

65.  Bean  seedlings 255 

66.  Companion  cropping 256 

67.  Bean  weevil  injury  to  stored  beans 257 

68.  Celery  intercropping  with  lettuce 273 

69.  Asparagus  ready  to  cut 277 

70.  Corn  root  web-worm                290. 

71.  Injury  by  corn  ear-worm 290 

72.  A  student  garden 297 

73.  A  city  war  garden 298 

74.  A  productive  war  garden 301 

75.  A  well-managed  war  garden 302 

76.  A  community  display  of  vegetables 304 

77.  Fruits  in  a  vegetable  show 306 

78.  Wire  worm 308 

79.  MiUipede 309 


ACKNOAVLEDGMENTS 

The  author  desires  to  acknowledge  the  valuable  assistance  of 
Mr.  Rufus  W.  Stimson,  editor  of  the  series  of  which  Vegetable 
Growing  Projects  is  to  be  a  part.  We  are  indebted  to  him  for 
suggesting  the  particular  form  used  in  the  preparation  of  the  manu- 
script. The  author  is  also  grateful  to  Prof.  J6hn  R.  Bechtel,  in 
charge  of  vegetable  growing  instruction  at  The  Pennsylvania  State 
College,  who  read  all  the  manuscript  and  who  directed  the  making 
of  most  of  the  illustrations,  which  were  obtained  from  the  Depart- 
ment of  Horticulture ;  to  Prof.  Raymond  G.  Bressler,  of  The  Penn- 
sylvania State  College,  who  also  read  the  entire  manuscript;  to 
Prof.  E.  L.  Nixon  of  The  Pennsylvania  State  College,  who  provided 
illustrations  No.  55,  56,  and  57  and  made  many  valuable  sugges- 
tions relating  to  the  control  of  disease  and  insect  enemies  of  the  po- 
tato ;  to  Dr.  Frank  D.  Kern  of  The  Pennsjdvania  State  College  for 
all  botanical  notes ;  to  Prof.  H.  E.  Hodgkiss  of  The  Pennsylvania 
State  College  for  all  notes  relating  to  injurious  insects;  and  to 
Mr.  Harvey  Porch  of  Bridgeton,  N.  J.,  for  the  photograph  from 
which  was  made  the  illustration  on  page  36.  My  son,  Gilbert  S. 
Watts,  rendered  valuable  assistance  in  the  preparation  of  the 
"  Calendar." 


R;  L.  Watts. 


September  24,  1921. 


xxui 


VEGETABLE   GROWING 
PROJECTS 


CHAPTER  ONE 

VEGETABLE    GROWING   PROJECT    CALENDAR 
OR    SEASONAL   PROGRAM 

1.  —  Get  Preliminary  Experience 
Work  at  every  kind  of  vegetable  growing  operations  that  you 
find  going  on  in  your  vicinity  before  classroom  studying  begins  ; 
and  keep  on  working  at  such  operations  after  school  opens.  Work 
for  pay,  if  you  can  get  it ;  or  work  for  the  chance  it  will  give  you 
to  watch  and  learn,  and  take  your  pay  in  the  greater  skill  and 
knowledge  thus  gained.  Your  own  project  should  be  built  on 
sound  experience. 

2.  —  Adjust  the  Calendar  to  Your  Project 

The  suggestions  printed  in  the  following  calendar  are  based 
on  the  region  around  State  College,  Pennsylvania.  In  normal 
seasons  they  may  be  followed  without  change  of  months  in  local- 
ities where  the  first  killing  frost  in  the  fall  occurs  about  October 
first,  and  the  latest  killing  frost  in  the  spring  about  May  tenth. 
Consult  Weather  Bureau  Reports,  seek  local  information,  and 
adjust  the  calendar  to  your  project  by  entering  dates  in  the  left- 
hand  columns.  Also,. from  time  to  time,  insert  in  the  open  spaces 
provided  for  this  purpose  all  other  items  needed  to  fit  your  pro- 
gram exactly  to  your  peculiar  conditions.  Include,  as  they  arise, 
the  unexpected  demands  of  your  project,  and  the  unanticipated 
opportunities  for  work  and  study.  Keep  your  eye  on  it,  perfect 
it,  and  in  carrying  it  out  be  on  time. 

1 

nOFERTY  LOUat 

ftV     ^^      n.     .       ^    WW      . 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

AUGUST 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Consider  various  pos- 
sible projects. 

W :  Full  list. 

St:  63-64,  406  ff., 
428-430,    454-457. 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Find   out  what   you 

could  sell. 
GHG  :   Guides  I  and 

11. 


Compare  advantages 
of  different  plots  of 
land. 

W-VG  :  27.     L :  9. 

GHG :  Guide  III. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


As  a  guide  in  deter- 
mining projects; 
visit  and  study  ex- 
isting projects. 


Study  transportation 
facilities  in  rela- 
tion to  your  mar- 
kets. 

C :  90-97. 


Start     compost 
plant  growing. 
W-VG:  151. 
GHG :  Guide  V. 


for 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Be  alert  and  watch- 
ful at  all  times. 


VEGETABLE    GROWING    PROJECT    CALENDAR 

AUGUST 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Sow  clover  for  green 
manure  and  cover 
crops. 

W-VG :  54^55. 

V : 99-104. 


Make  last  sowing  for 
fall  crop  lettuce 
and  spinach. 


Plant  Egyptian  onion 

sets. 
W-VG :  383. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Put  up  compost  heap 
to  provide  soil  for 
plant  growing,  not- 
ing proportion  of 
each  material  used 

V : 163-164. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Keep  an  eye  on 
projects  of  others 
to  gain  pointers  for 
next  season. 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

SEPTEMBER 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Determine  projects  to 

be  carried  on. 
Hn:  162-171. 
GHG:  Guide  VI. 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Select  plots  for  proj- 
ects. 
W  :  Full  list.    Sp  :  47 
GHG:  Guide  VI. 


Prepare  budget  and 
accounting  plan  for 
projects. 

GHG :  Guide  VI. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


In  a  field  trip  study 
various  locations 
with  reference  to 
suitability  of  soil 
and  exposure  for 
certain  projects. 

C :  8-9. 

GHG :  Guide  IV. 


Visit  fairs  and  other 
exhibits  and  study 
the  best  varieties. 


Observations 
By  the  Pupil 


Record  date  of  first 

kilhng  frost. 
GHG :  Guide  XXII. 


Note  the  part  mois- 
ture plays  in  start- 
ing green  manure 
and  cover  crops. 


VEGETABLE    GROWING    PROJECT    CALENDAR 

SEPTEMBER 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 
to  Particular 

Practicums  and 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Select  seed  of  sweet 

Visit     markets     and 

Observe  which  green 

corn,  tomato,  pep- 

study       carefully. 

manure  and  cover 

per,    eggplant, 

noting  such  points 

crops     start     most 

squash,  cucumber. 

as    packages    used 

certainly        in 

W-VG:  92-98. 

for  each  crop,  and 

droughty  weather. 

Wi:  194-195. 

method  of  placing 
vegetables  in  the 
packages. 

W-VG:  168-174. 

L : 285-286. 

GHG:  Guide  L 

Sow  timothy  or  rye 

and  vetch  for  cover 

crop. 

W-VG :  55-56. 

Sow  spinach  to  win- 

ter. 

W-VG :  426. 

VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


OCTOBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Decide  upon  plant- 
growing  equip- 
ment. 

W :  44-50. 

W-VG:  152-154. 

GHG:  Guides  VI 
and  VIII. 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Store  soil  and  rotten 
manure  for  start- 
ing early  plants. 

W-VG :  151-152. 


Collect  one-peck 
sample  of  soil  from 
garden  to  be 
planted. 

GHG :  Guide  III. 


Sow   rye   and   vetch 

cover  crop. 
L :  29. 


Practicums  and 

Laboratory 

Activities 

By  the  Class 


Visit  and  study  your 
market  to  deter- 
mine the  compara- 
tive advantages  of 


(1)   selling 
wholesaler ; 


to 


(2)  selling  to  re- 
tailers ; 

(3)  selling  to  con- 
sumers on  curb 
market,       and 

(4)  selling  from 
home    to    home. 

L : 294-302. 
GHG:  Guide  I. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


first 


Record  date  of 

killing  frost. 
GHG:  Guide  XXII 


Watch  the  growth 
made  by  late  celery 
and  late  cabbage 
this  month. 


VEGETABLE    GROWING    PROJECT    CALENDAR 

OCTOBER 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Make   sure   there   is 
rye  straw  for  mats. 
W-VG :  154. 


Select    potatoes    for 
planting  next  year. 
Fr:52,  74,  175. 


Save  asparagus  seed. 
H :  26-29. 
W-VG:  206-208. 


Dig  hotbed  pit. 
W-VG:  105. 
Tra:  51. 


Make  hotbed  frame. 
W-VG:  106.     L:63 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Observations 
By  the  Pupil 


Draw  up  plans  for  a  See  what  happens  to 
plank  hotbed  and  the  prices  of  "ten- 
a  concrete  hotbed,  der"  vegetables 
estimating  the      after  the  first  hard 

comparative  costs,      frost. 

W-VG  :  100.     L :  63.  GHG  :  Guide  L 


Attend  any  school, 
communi  ty,  or 
county  vegetable 
exhibits  within 
reach,  making 

notes  that  will  be 
of  value  in  making 
your  exhibit  next 
fall. 


Determine  which 
green  manure  and 
cover  crops  are 
most  effectively 
smothering  out 
weeds. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

NOVEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 

Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 

Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 

Observations 

By  the  Pupil 

Grade  level  area  for 

cold  frames. 
W-VG:  114-115. 

Visit  large   commer- 
cial   gardens    and 
note  in  detail  the 
storing  of  crops. 

W-VG :  193-195. 

C:  82-89. 

L:  304-311. 

GHG :  Guide  XI. 

Record  date  when 
ground  freezes  for 
the  winter. 

GHG:  Guide  XXII. 

Make  cold  frames. 
W-VG:  115-117. 
L :  66.     C  :  55-57. 
GHG :  Guide  VIII. 

Protect   soil   in  hot- 
beds     and      cold 
frames  from   deep 
freezing. 

Dig   and   store   rhu- 
barb roots  for  forc- 

ing. 
W-VF :  199. 

Plow  garden. 
W-VG :  29-30. 
V:  71. 

VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


NOVEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

Project  Work 

Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

Observations 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Sow  rye  as  cover  crop. 
W-VG :  53. 

Make  straw  mats. 
W  :  50.    W-VG  :  154. 
GHG :  Guide  VIII. 

Estimate    costs    and 
returns  for  various 
crops. 

Hn:     117-134,    148- 
161. 

GHG:  Guide  II. 

Note  the  compara- 
tive amounts  of  top 
growth  made  by 
different  green  ma- 
nure and  cover 
crops. 

Make  flats. 

W  :  48.    W-VG  :  152. 

GHG:  Guide  VIII. 

Make  straw  mats. 
W  :  50.   W-VG  :  154. 

Record  date  of  first 
snow  that  remains. 

Make   map   of   your 

project  plot. 
GHG:      Guides    IV 

and  VI. 

Apply     manure      to 

project  plot. 
W-VG :  49-50. 

10 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


DECEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Complete   details   of 

projects. 
GHG :  Guide  VI. 


Make  transplanting 
boards,  dibbers, 
and  paper  pots. 

W-VG :  160. 

GHG :  Guide  VIII. 


Repair 

and 

paint 

tools 

and 

imple- 

mentj 

V 

W-VG : 

40. 

GHG: 

Guide  VIII. 

Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Test  sample  of  soil 
from  plot  for  acid- 
ity. Study  physi- 
cal properties 

Sp:  119.  V:  247-248. 

GHG :  Guide  V. 


On  a  blank  map  lo- 
cate important 
markets  within 
convenient  truck- 
ing or  shipping  dis- 
tance. Note  on  the 
margins  the  popu- 
lation of  each. 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Record  date  of  the 
season's  first  snow 
to  remain. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


11 


DECEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Repair  and  paint  old 

sash. 
W-VG  :  108. 
GHG:  Guide  VIIL 


Glaze  and  paint  new 

sash. 
W-VG :  108. 


Make  an  inventory  of 
old  tools  and 
equipment  and  de- 
termine new  equip- 
ment required. 

H:  109-116. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Repair  and  paint  hot- 
bed sash,  noting 
such  details  of  con- 
struction as  type 
of  mortise  or  cen- 
tral bracing. 

W-VG :  107-109. 

GHG:  Guide  VIIL 


Compare  green  ma- 
nures in  their  abil- 
ity to  hold  snow. 


Study  labor,  capital, 
accounting,  and 
administrating  as 
applied  to  market 
gardening. 

GHG:  Guides  VII. 
X.  and  XII. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


12 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


JANUARY 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

Practicums  and 

to  Particular 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Work  on  home  gar- 

Study  the   seeds   of 

Note    the    compara- 

den plans. 

various  vegetables, 

tive  freedom  of  va- 

W:293.  L:  265-276. 

noting  size,  shape, 

rious     samples     of 

C:  105-110. 

color,   markings,  if 

seed     from     weed 

any,  and  character 

seeds  and  dirt. 

of  seed  coats. 

GHG:  Guide  IX. 

Sp:  170-172. 

GHG :  Guide  IX. 

Order  seeds. 

W-VG :  99. 

GHG:      Guides    VI 

and  IX. 

Order  fertilizer. 

Determine      number 

Note    new     rootlets 

W-VG :  68. 

of    seeds    to     the 

on  celery  removed 

V:  233-241. 

ounce  of  important 

from  storage. 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 

vegetables. 
W-VG :  496-497. 
GHG:  Guide  IX. 

Order  lime. 

V :  249. 

GHG :  Guide  VI. 

Order  insecticides. 

CL:  368-381. 

GHG :  Guide  VI. 

Practice      identifica- 
tion   of    unnamed 
or   mixed   samples 

Order  new  tools. 

of  vegetable  seeds. 

W-VG :  28-40. 

GHG :  Guide  IX. 

VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


13 


JANUARY 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


As  seeds  arrive,  mark 
each  package  with 
the  month  and 
year. 


Make       germination 

tests. 
W-VG:10L 
GHG :  Guides  VI  and 

IX. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Disinfect  such  vege- 
table seeds  as  re- 
quire this  treat- 
ment, making  de- 
tailed records  of 
materials  used, 
duration  of  treat- 
ment, washing  and 
subsequent  care  of 
the  seeds. 

SH:7. 


Observations 
By  the  Pupil 


Record  depth  of  snow 
and  of  frost  pene- 
tration into  the 
soil. 


Force  rhubarb. 
W-VF :  190-197. 
M  :  5-27. 


Design  trade  marks. 
W-VG :  176-177. 


Market  stored  crops. 
W-VG :  167-168. 


Take  two  samples 
from  the  same  lot 
of  seed  and  test  for 
germination  and 
vitahty,  using  the 
blotting  paper  and 
dish  method  in  one 
case,  and  sowing 
the  seeds  in  a  flat 
of  soil  in  the  other 
case.  Study  re- 
sults. 

W-VG:  101. 

Sp:  298. 

GHG :  Guide  IX. 


Visit  markets,  noting 
which  crops  are 
shipped  in  from  the 
South,  and  which 
are  being  supplied 
from  storage  in  the 
North. 

GHG :  Guide  I. 


14 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


FEBRUARY 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Make  hotbed. 

W:44.   W-VG:  110. 

L :  60-62. 

Sow  early  cabbage, 
early  lettuce,  kohl- 
rabi, and  Prize- 
taker  onions. 

W  :  under  each  crop. 

W-VG  :  133, 134,  154. 

GHG:  Guides  VI 
and  IX. 


Give     hotbed     daily 

attention. 
W-VG :  155. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Study  statistics  on 
the  average  prices 
of  cabbage  or  root 
crops  in  October, 
November,  Janu- 
ary, and  February. 

The  Market  Re- 
porter, U.  S.  Dept. 
of  Ag. 

GHG :  Guide  I. 


Study  seedlings  of 
various  vegetables, 
noting  distinguish- 
ing characteristics. 


Observations 
By  the  Pupil 


Note  changes  taking 
place  in  fall  plowed 
land  left  lumpy. 

W-VG :  29. 


Examine  root  crops 
in  pits,  noting 
change  in  condi- 
tion since  last  ex- 
amined. 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


15 


FEBRUARY 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

Practicums  and 

to  Particular 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Make    detailed    gar- 

Study minutely  pea, 

Compare    prices    re- 

den plans. 

bean,      and      corn 

ceived     for     crops 

seedlings,     making 

from   storage  with 

detailed    drawings 

prices    offered    for 

of  each. 

the      same      crops 

R  :  59,  178,  417,  422. 

when  put  in  storage. 
GHG :  Guide  I. 

Force  rhubarb. 

Mix   soils   for   plant 

Visit  markets. 

W-VF :  190-197. 

growing,        noting 
how     to     moisten 
without  puddling; 
and  noting  the  in- 
fluences of  varying 
proportions          of 
sand,     fine    rotten 
manure,  and  loam 
on     the     resulting 
mixture. 
W :  52. 

Market   forced   rhu- 

GHG:  Guide  XIV. 

Note  when  the  frost 

barb. 

comes   out   of   the 

W-VF:  201-203. 

ground. 

Market  stored  crops. 

Observe  temperature 

W-VG:281. 

changes  in  hotbed. 

16 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


MARCH 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

Practicums  and 

to  Particular 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Sow  tomatoes,  early 

Work    out    fertilizer 

Note  when  the  frost 

celery,  cauliflower, 

mixing  problems. 

comes   out   of   the 

and  beets  for  trans- 

W-VG: 69-71. 

ground. 

planting. 

V  :  254. 

W  :  under  each  crop. 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 

Transplant  seedlings 

started    in    Febru- 

Note the  color,  odor, 

ary. 
W  :  under  each  crop. 

Disinfect      all     seed 

and  taste  of  com- 

potatoes,    making 

mon         fertilizing 

GHG :  Guide  IX. 

notes  on  important 

materials. 

points. 

GHG :  Guide  V. 

W:216.    Fr:180. 

SH :  240. 

Mix  fertihzers. 

V : 215-218. 

GHG  :  Guides  V  and 

VI. 

Observe     "heaving" 
of  wintered  spinach, 

Clip    tops    of    onion 

parsnips,  or  wheat. 

seedlings. 

Transplant  seedlings, 

W :  234. 

studying     to     de- 
velop the  greatest 
possible   speed 
through    use    of    a 

Order    packages    for 

definite  system  of 

marketing. 

dropping  and  set- 

C:92. 

ting  plants  and  the 

Draw  conclusions  in 

elimination  of  un- 

regard to  the  kinds 

necessary       move- 

of    winters,    loca- 

ments. 

tions,  and  soils  con- 

W-VG:  155-157. 

ducive    to    serious 

Market  stored  crops. 

GHG -.Guide  IX. 

heaving. 

VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT   CALENDAR 


17 


MARCH 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 
to  Particular 

Practicums  and 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Sow  peppers  and  egg- 

Compare         several 

Note     which      green 

plants. 

seedlings     of     the 

manure  and  cover 

W :  77,  83. 

same  kind  and  age. 

crops     make     the 

but    grown    under 

greatest       early 

different        condi- 

spring growth. 

Give     hotbeds     and 

tions   of   moisture. 

cold  frames        fre- 

temperature,       or 

quent  attention. 

hght,  noting  firm- 
ness of  tissue,  color, 
and  general  vigor. 

Start  to  harden  early 

cabbage. 

W :  98. 

Manure  project  plot. 

Mix  fertilizers,  keep- 

From    the     flats     of 

C  :  49-50. 

ing     an     accurate 

several        students 

record     of     time. 

note  the  effects  of 

Compute  the  sav- 

too  deep  and  too 

Plow,  if  land  is  fit. 

ing  or  increase  in 
cost  per  ton  over 

shallow  covering  of 
seed. 

W-VG  :  30.     V  :  72. 

buying     mixed 

GHG  :  Guides  VI  and 
XL 

goods. 

GHG:  Guide  V. 

Market   forced   rhu- 

• 

barb. 

M:  29-32. 

W-VF:  201-203. 

• 

GHG :  Guide  XI. 

Sow  spinach,  lettuce, 
radishes,  and  peas, 
if  possible. 

W  :  under  each  crop. 

Observe  temperature 

GHG:    Guides      VI 

changes    in  cold 

and  XL 

frame. 

18 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


APRIL 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

Practicums  and 

to  Particular 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Transplant  into  cold- 

Prepare    a    plot    for 

Note  how  much  more 

frame        seedlings 

planting,         using 

easily  clods  may  be 

started  in  March. 

various    tools    and 

broken  when    har- 

W-VG: 155-157. 

noting    their    rela- 

rowing   soon    after 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 

tive    efficiency    in 

plowing          rather 

breaking         clods. 

than  after  the  wind 

Plow  project  plot. 

leveHng,  mixing  in 

has       dried       the 

W-VG  :  30.     V  :  72. 

fertilizer    or    lime, 

lumps. 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 

and  in  firming  the 
soil. 

Prepare      plot      for 

GHG:  Guide  XL 

planting. 

W-VG :  31-34. 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 

Plant      peas,      early 

potatoes,     lettuce, 

Study    garden     seed 

Watch  how  plants  in 

beets, carrots, 

drills  to  learn  the 

the  frames   "shoot 

early  turnips,  pars- 

names,   uses,    and 

up"  when        their 

nips,   onion   seeds, 

adjustments         of 

leaves      begin      to 

and  onion  sets. 

each  part. 

touch    each    other. 

W  :  under  each  crop. 

Catalogues    and    in- 

GHG: Guides  VI and 

struction  sheets. 

XI. 

GHG :  Guide  VIII. 

Transplant   cabbage, 

lettuce,  and    kohl- 

rabi into  field. 

W  :  under  each  crop. 

GHG :     Guides      VI 

and  XI. 

vSow    asparagus  seed 

Look  for  difference  in 

in  field. 

frost  injury  to  well- 

H:  30-34.     W:271. 

grown,     well-hard- 
ened cabbage  plants 

Plant        asparagus 

as   compared  with 

roots. 

weak,       tender 

W  :  272.     H  :  49-60. 

plants. 

VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


19 


APRIL 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

Practicums  and 

to  Particular 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Plant  rhubarb. 

Set     out     asparagus 

Keep  notes  on  grow- 

W:  280.     L:403. 

and  rhubarb  roots, 

ing  conditions. 

studying  each. 

Record      belated 

Determine  why 

snows,  freezes,  long 

iSow  oats  and  peas  for 

asparagus  is  prop- 

rainy   periods,    or 

green  manure. 

agated  from  seeds 

unusually  warm 

W-VG :  56. 

and     rhubarb     by 
division      of      old 
crowns. 

weather. 

Avoid  too  high  tem- 

W-VG :208, 209, 419, 

peratures     in     the 

420. 

frames. 

Start     cucurbits     in 

Make  a  study  of  and 

pots  under  glass. 

record  briefly  fac- 

W:   156.        V-VG: 

tors   you   find   im- 

332. 

portant    in    avoid- 

ing  loss  of  plants 

Note    the    dates    on 

Start  cultivation    as 

when  setting  in  the 

which  home-grown 

soon   as  rows   can 

field. 

vegetables    of    va- 

be seen. 

rious     kinds     first 

W-VG :  34-37. 

appear  in  the  mar- 
ket. 
GHG :  Guides  I  and 

Transplant  a  second 

xvin. 

time    crowded    to- 

matoes, eggplants, 

or  peppers. 

W:  59. 

Harvest        rhubarb, 

wintered    spinach, 

and  Egyptian   on- 

ions. 

1 

Note  uneven  growth 

of  plants  when  flats 

Combat  garden  pests. 

are  not  filled  uni- 

W, SH,  and  CL. 

1 

formly. 

20 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


MAY 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Sow  late  celery. 
W  :  128.     B :  43-46. 


Sow  late  cabbage  and 

late  cauliflower. 
R:  20-21. 


Sow  lettuce  for  suc- 
cession. 

Top  dress  backward 
crops  with  ferti- 
lizer. 

W-VG:  60-61. 


Plant  sweet  corn. 

W :  288. 

GHG :  Guide  VI. 


Plant  all  cucurbits. 
W:  151. 


Plant  beans. 
W : 253. 


Provide  support  for 

peas. 
W  :  264.  W-VG  :  412 
S-P :  74. 


Market  asparagus, 
rhubarb,  and  other 
crops. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Dig  up  one  square 
foot  of  a  green  ma- 
nure crop,  taking 
with  it  the  soil  one 
foot  deep,  wash  the 
soil  away,  and 
determine  the  ton- 
nage of  organic 
matter  per  acre. 


Note  the  habit  and 
bulk  of  growth  of 
roots  and  tops  of 
various  green  ma- 
nure and  cover 
crops.  Draw  con- 
clusions as  to  value 
of  each  in  "soil 
binding, "  weed  ex 
terminating,  ability 
to  winter,  and  dan- 
ger of  becoming  a 
weed  or  interfering 
with  cultivation. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Note  nodules  on  le- 
guminous cover 
crops. 

Sp :  148-151. 


Compare  root  devel- 
opment as  green 
manures  and  cover 
crops  are  plowed 
under. 

Rb :  10-14. 


Note    the    dates    of 
killing  frosts. 


Keep  up  with  notes 
on  growing  condi- 
tions. 

GHG:  Guides  XIII 
and  XV. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


21 


MAY 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Transplant  into  field 
early  celery  and 
Prize-taker  onions. 

W :  130,  239. 

Cultivate  frequently. 
V:  69-71. 
GHG :  Guide  VL 

Thin  to  correct  stand. 
W-VG :  133. 

Watch  for  and  con- 
trol insect  and  fun- 
gous enemies. 

W,  SH,  and  CL. 

GHG:  Guides  VI 
and  XI. 

Mark  high-yielding 
asparagus  crowns. 

Plow  down  green  ma- 
nures. 

Harrow  at  once  and 
repeat  at  intervals 
if  land  is  fallow. 

Transplant  tomatoes 

into  field. 
W-VG :  141,  460. 
L:49. 

Transplant  to  field 
cucurbits  started 
in  pots. 

W-VG :  334-335. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Top  dress  a  growing 
crop  with  nitrate 
of  soda  or  ammo- 
nium sulphate, 
making  careful 
calculations  as  to 
area  to  be  covered 
and  the  amount  of 
fertilizer  required 
to  equal  150 
pounds  of  nitrate 
of  soda  per  acre. 

GHG :  Guide  V. 


Practice  planting 
Have  contests  for 
skill  and  speed. 

GHG :  Guide  XI. 


Practice  cultivating, 
weeding,  and  thin- 
ning closely  plant- 
ed crops,  drawing 
conclusions  as  to 
the  comparative 
efficiency  of  dif- 
ferent wheel  hoes, 
weeders,  and  your 
own  fingers  for  the 
various  phases  of 
this  work. 

GHG :  Guide  XI. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Note    the    dates    on 
which  various 

kinds  of  home- 
grown vegetables 
first  appear  in  the 
market. 


Note  the  rebranching 
of  roots  when  set- 
ting transplanted 
plants  in  the  field. 


Compare  frost  injury 
to  tender  crop§  in 
low  locations  with 
that  to  the  same 
crops  on  higher 
land. 

GHG :  Guide  XXII. 


Begin  field  study  of 
botany  of  vege- 
tables. 

GHG :  Guide  XXI. 


Note  beneficial  birds 
about  the  garden. 


22 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


JUNE 
See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Transplant  eggplants 
and  peppers  into 
field. 

W :  82,  86. 

GHG:  Guide  VI. 

Plant  lato  sweet  corn. 

W :  288. 

GHG :  Guide  VI. 

Plant  late  potatoes. 
Fr:  91-104. 

Plant  bush  beans  for 

succession. 
GHG:  Guide  VI. 

Stake,  prune,  and  tie 

tomato  vines. 
W-VG :  461-463. 
Tra :  79-89. 

Top  dress  with  ferti- 
lizer if  necessary. 
W-VG:  60-61. 


Cultivate  crops. 
V:73. 


Hoe  and  weed  crops 
W-VG :  37-40. 


Thin  to  correct  stand 

C:37. 

GHG :  Guide  XI. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Make  a  study  of 
available  spraying 
equipment,  learn- 
ing the  care  and 
adjustment  of  all 
parts. 

GHG:  Guide  VIII. 


Study  the  character- 
istics of  important 
spray  materials 
and  prepare  them 
for  use  in  the  field. 

CL:  368-381. 

GHG:  Guide  XI. 


Use  both  large-tooth 
and  fine-tooth 

horse-drawn  culti- 
vators, comparing 
their  efficiency  as 
weed  killers  and 
mulch  producers 
the  depth  and  ra- 
pidity of  operation, 
and  noting  adapta 
bility  to  special 
crops. 

GHG :  Guide  VIII 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Note    the    dates     of 

killing  frost. 
GHG:  Guide  XXII. 


Do  not  neglect  notes 
on  growing  condi- 
tions. Record  such 
things  as  drought, 
hail,  or  serious 
damage  from  pests. 

GHG :  Guide  XII. 


Note  the  date  on 
which  home-grown 
vegetables  of  va- 
rious kinds  first 
appear  in  the 
market. 

GHG:  Guide  XVIII. 


Compare  the  devel- 
opment of  "bot- 
toms" on  root 
crops  where  amply 
spaced  and  where 
crowded. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


23 


JUNE 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Sow  late  root  crops, 
French  endive,  and 
Brussels  sprouts. 

W-VG:247,291,466. 

W-VF:375. 

Transplant  into  field 
late  cabbage  and 
late  cauliflower.  . 

W -VG  :  272,  300. 

R :  46-59. 

Harvest  and  market 
lettuce,  radishes, 
spinach,  green 
onions,  rhubarb, 
and  asparagus. 

W  :  under  each  crop. 

GHG  :  Guides  VI  and 
XL 

Combat  garden  pests. 

W,  SH,  and  CL. 

Transplant   late   cel- 
ery into  field. 
W-VG:312.  C:198. 
B:54. 

Cradle  rye  for  mats. 

Remove  suckers  from 

sweet  com. 
Wi :  25,  72,  182. 

Discontinue    cutting 

asparagus. 
W-VG :  220. 

Be  on  the  alert  to 
prevent  insect  and 
disease  injuries. 

GHG:  Guides  XVI 
and  XVII. 


Make  a  study  of  in- 
sects affecting  po- 
tatoes, cabbages, 
tomatoes,  and  peas 
at  this  season. 
Determine  how 
each  feeds  and  note 
the  character  of  its 
coat. 

CL:  under  each  crop. 

GHG:  Guides  XI  and 
XVI. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Note  the  relation  of 
seed  testing  and 
accurate  adjust- 
ment of  the  drill  to 
subsequent  labor  of 
thinning. 


Keep  a  close  eye  on 
way  different  com- 
panion cropping 
schemes  work  out. 

GHG :  Guide  IV. 


Watch  the  movement 
of  prices  in  your 
market  as  the  sea- 
son progresses. 

GHG :  Guide  I. 


Note  the  effect  of 
different  plant 

foods  on  garden 
crops. 

GHG:  Guide  XIII. 


24 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


JULY 
See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Plant  early  varieties 
of  sweet  corn  for 
fall  crop. 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Plant  late  cucumbers. 
W :  160. 


Cultivate  frequently 


Hoe  crops. 
W-VG :  37-38. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Determine  the  names, 
habits  of  growth, 
kinds  of  root  sys- 
tem, and  means  of 
reproduction  of 
common  garden 
weeds. 

GHG :  Guide  XXV. 


Make  notes  on  grow 
ing  conditions. 


Find  out  the  length 
of  time  required  by 
chickweed  for  the 
production  of  seed. 


Combat  garden  pests. 
W,  SH,  and  CL. 


Harvest  and  market 
crops  promptly. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Note  the  dates  on 
which  home-grown 
vegetables  of  va- 
rious kinds  first 
appear  in  the  mar- 
ket. 


Visit  the  markets, 
noting  vegetables 
in  liberal  supply 
and  in  short  suj)- 
ply,  and  their 
prices. 


mtu\mi:DTY  IIRRARY 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


25 


JULY 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

Project  Work 

Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

Observations 

By  the  Pupil 

B>j  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Plant  bush  stringless 
beans  for  fall. 

Make  a  study  of  the 
vegetable  package 
situation  in  all  its 
phases  as  it  exists 
in  your  local  mar- 
ket. 

Visit  one  or  more 
farms  speciaUzing 
in  vegetables,  not- 
ing system  of  crop- 
ping, rotation,  if 
any,  planting  dis- 
tances, and  other 
important  features. 

F'rune  and  tie  staked 

tomatoes. 
W-VF :  280-284. 
L:  246-248. 

Study    in    the    field 
diseases     affecting 
vegetables.      Take 
steps   to   establish 
the  identity  of  each 
and         familiarize 
yourself  with  meas- 
ures of  control. 

SH :  Full  list. 

GHG:  Guide  XL 

Note  inefficiency  of 
dull  hoes. 

Sow  lettuce,  spinach, 
and  endive  for  fall 
crop. 

Continue  study  of 
botany  of  vege- 
tables. 

GHG :  Guide  XXL 

26 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


AUGUST 
See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particxilar 

Localities 

Project  Work 

Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

Observations 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Combat  garden  pests. 
W,  CL,  and  SH. 

Plant  late  turnips. 
W :  187. 

Plan  for  school  and 
other        vegetable 
exhibits. 

GHG :  Guide  II. 

Keep  up  notes  on 
growing  conditions. 

GHG:  Guides  XV 
and  XIX. 

Sow  last  lettuce  and 
spinach     for     fall 
crop. 

Study  asparagus  and 
rhubarb  to   deter- 
mine the  functions 
and     relative     im- 
portance of  leaves 
and  stems  in  each. 

Rb :  244,  286. 

Record  dates  on 
which  various  early 
croi)s  leave  the 
land  vacant  for 
succession  crops  or 
green  manures. 

GHG :  Guide  IV. 

Sow  winter  radishes. 
W-VG :  418. 

Cultivate  crops. 

Determine  which  of 
the  insects  present 
at       this       season 
affect    more    than 

Keep   weeds   out   of 
the  rows. 

one  crop. 
CJL :  Full  list. 
GHG:  Guide  XI. 

VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


27 


AUGUST 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Market  crops. 
Sp :  329-330. 


Save     tomato 

pepper  seed. 

Tra:  112-116. 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


and 


I'.lanch  early  celery 
with  boards  or 
paper. 

W-VG :  316-318. 

B:  95-98. 


Harvest  early  onions. 
W  :  244.     L :  168. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Spray  a  crop  in  the 
field,  keeping  ac- 
curate record  of 
time  and  materials 
used  per  acre. 

GHG:  Guide  XI. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Estimate  the  cost  per 
acre  per  applica- 
tion and  state  how 
this  may  be  influ- 
enced by  equip- 
ment. 


Sow  lettuce  for  fall 

crop  in  frames. 
W-VF:404. 


Tn  gardens  through- 
out your  neighbor- 
hood note  the  com- 
parative ability  of 
various  vegetables 
to  succeed  in 
shaded  locations. 


Continue 

botany 

tables. 
GHG :  Guide  XXI. 


study     of 
of     vege- 


28 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


SEPTEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Combat  garden  pests. 
W,  CL,  and  SH. 


Cultivate  crops. 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Complete  plans  for 
school  and  other 
vegetable  exhibits. 


Make  notes  on  grow- 
ing conditions. 


Go  into  your  plot  and 
study  in  detail  five 
individual  plants 
of  the  same  variety 
noting  and  record- 
ing differences  in 
size  of  plant  or 
fruit,  shape  or 
color  of  leaf,  or 
habit  of  growth. 


Market  crops.  Har- 
vest closely  to 
avoid  losses  in  the 
field. 


Save  sweet  corn,  to- 
mato, pepper,  egg 
plant,  cucumber, 
and  squash  seeds. 

W-VG:  92-99. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Recognize  plants  as 
individuals.  Plants 
from  seed  are  as 
distinctly  individ- 
ual as  animals. 
Learn  to  see  the 
difference  between 
brother  plants. 
This  is  essential  in 
selection  for  seed 
growing. 

GHG :  Guide  XXIIL 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


29 


SEPTEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


1 

Adjustments  , 

to  Particular  I           Project  Work 
Localities 

Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

Observations 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Break     leaves     over 

cauliflower  heads. 
W:116.  W-VG:300. 

Study    the    tomato, 
squash,  and  aspar- 
agus,   determining 
the  method  of  pol- 
lination    in     each 
case. 

Rb :  247-249,       588, 
611. 

Visit  one  or  more 
farms  specializing 
in  vegetable  grow- 
ing.  Note  care- 
fully implements, 
tools,  buildings, 
and  wagons  or 
trucks  for  market- 
ing. 

GHG :  Guide  XVIII. 

Harvest       squashes, 
sweet        potatoes, 
onions,     tomatoes, 
eggplant,  and  pep- 

Practice selection  of 
vegetables  for  ex- 
hibition. 

Continue  study  of 
botany  of  vege- 
tables. 

GHG :  Guide  XXI. 

pers. 
W  :  under  each  crop. 

Sow  cover  crops. 
W-VG :  53-57. 

30 


VEGETABLE  GROWING   PROJECTS 


OCTOBER 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Combat  garden  pests. 
W,  CL,  and  SH. 


Ridge  celery. 
W-VG:  315-319. 
B:  99. 


Select  potato  tubers 
for  winter  exhibits 


Select  seed  potatoes. 
Fr : 175-176. 


Save  asparagus  seed. 
H :  28-29. 


Market  crops. 


Sow  cover  crops. 
W-VG:  53-57. 


Complete  ridging  of 
celery. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Practice  judging  of 
plate  displays  and 
market  packages  of 
vegetables. 

GHG :  Guide  II. 


Practice  judging  veg- 
etables in  contests 
at  school. 

GHG:  Guide  11. 


Compete  in  vegetable 
judging  contests 
with  teams  repre- 
senting  other 
schools. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Mark  and  weigh 
several  squashes 
when  placed  in 
storage. 


Visit  vegetable  ex- 
tension demonstra- 
tions. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT  CALENDAR 


31 


OCTOBER 

See  page  1 ,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Gather     refuse     and 
burn  it. 


Select  root  crops  for 
winter  exhibits. 


Make  sauerkraut. 
W-VG :  289-290. 


Take  your  inventory 
and  close  your 
project  accounts,  if 
your  work  is  done, 
or  if  your  report  is 
now  due. 

GHG :  VI. 


Prepare  brief  digest 
or  report,  in  writ 
ing,  of  your  vege- 
table growing 
experience  and 
conclusions  as 
bearing  on  your 
future  projects  in 
this  field. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Set  up  school  vege- 
table exhibit. 
GHG:  Guide  II. 


Observe  wide  varia- 
tions in  quahty  of 
produce  on  the 
markets  at  this  sea- 
son. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Close  up  all  summer 
field  studies  (bot- 
any, insect,  dis- 
ease, etc.). 

GHG:  Guides  XVI, 
XVII,  and  XXL 


32 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


NOVEMBER 
See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Store      celery      and 

W-VG:321-325,351. 
B:  104-111. 


Protect  lettuce  in  the 
field  with  coarse 
straw. 


Dig  and  store  young 

asparagus  roots 
W-VF :  182-183. 


Market  crops. 


Store  cabbage. 
W-VG:  275-281. 
R :  77,  96-104. 


Store  root  crops. 
C : 82-88. 
L : 308-309. 


Dig  and  store  rhu- 
barb roots  for  forc- 
ing. 

W-VF :  199. 


Protect  the  hotbed 
and  cold  frame  wa- 
ter system  from 
frost. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Store  celery  and  leeks 
in  trenches,  record- 
ing details  of  the 
operation. 

W-VG :  322-323. 


Bury  late  roots  in 
pits,  showing  by 
sketches  the  posi- 
tion of  the  roots  in 
completed  pits. 

L :  308-309. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Observe  changes  in 
weight  of  stored 
squashes. 


Visit  vegetable  forc- 
ing houses,  noting 
variation  in  prac- 
tice from  that  fol- 
lowed in  the  open. 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECT   CALENDAR 


33 


NOVEMBER 
See  page  1.  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Project  Work 

By  the  Pupil 


Protect  soil  in  hot- 
beds and  frames 
from  freezing. 


Mulch  these  crops : 
asparagus,  rhu- 
barb, Egyptian 
onions,  spinach  to 
winter. 


Give  buried  crops  ad- 
ditional protection 
as  the  weather 
grows  severe. 


Clean  implements 
and  tools,  oil  metal 
parts,  and  store. 

W-VG :  40. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Study  market  reports 
clipped  through- 
out the  season. 
Plot  price  curves. 


Study  varieties  and 
strains  of  late  cab- 
bage. 

W:  91. 


Study     varieties     of 

squash. 
W :  174. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Note  rootlets  and 
root  hairs  being 
formed  on  celery  in 
trenches. 

Rb :  18-20. 


Compare  decay 
among  squashes 
with  broken  stems 
and  with  stems  in- 
tact. 


34 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


DECEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

to  Particular 

Localities 

By  the  Pupil 


Dates 


Project  Work 
By  the  Pupil 


Watch  the  tempera- 
ture and  moisture 
conditions  when 
storing  crops  in  cel- 
lars. 


Make  sure  that  crops 
buried  in  pits  or 
trenches  have  ade- 
quate protection. 


Market    crops    from 
storage. 


Repair      tools      and 

order  new  parts. 
W-VG :  40. 


Practicums  and 
Laboratory 
Activities 

By  the  Class 


Visit  and  study  con- 
struction and  oper- 
ation of  large 
commercial  storage 
houses  and  root 
cellars. 


Study     varieties     of 

onions. 
W :  232. 


Study     varieties     of 

root  crops. 
W  :  under  each  crop. 


Observations 

By  the  Pupil 


Compare  November 
and  October  losses 
in  weight  of  stored 
squashes. 


Note  spread  of  rot 
from  one  specimen 
to  another  where 
squashes  touch 
each  other. 


Note  decay  and  gen- 
eral condition  of 
root  crops  in  pits. 


VEGETABLE  GROWING   PROJECT  CALENDAR 


35 


DECEMBER 

See  page  1,  section  2 


Adjustments 

Practicums  and 

to  Particular 

Project  Work 

Laboratory 

Observations 

Localities 

Activities 

By  the  Pupil 

Bij  the  Pupil 

By  the  Class 

By  the  Pupil 

Dates 

Repair  and  paint  hot- 

Study   your    project 

Note  changes  taking 

bed  sash. 

records   and   draw 

place  in  the  hearts 

W-VG :  108. 

up  a  program  for  a 
similar          project 
another        season, 
making     the    new 
plan  reflect  clearly 
points  that  have  an 
important   bearing 
on  the  success  of 
the     project     and 
that      have     been 

of  stored  celery. 

made  clear  through 

Note  any  celery  dis- 

your    experience 

eases  that  continue 

and  observations. 

activity      in      the 

Overhaul   and   make 

stored  crop. 

replacements       in 

Rb :  175-176. 

plant-growing 

equipment. 

W-VG :  152-153,  160 

-161. 

Summarize  your  ex- 
perience  and   con- 
clusions in  a  filial 
report. 

Work      your       final 

project  records  into 

compact,  available 

form  for  reference 

and  judgment. 

36 


VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 


CHAPTER  TWO 
SOLANACEOUS   CROP  PROJECTS 

Tomato,  Eggplant,  Pepper 

The  solanaceous  plant  family  includes  the  tomato,  potato,  egg- 
plant, pepper,  Jimson  weed,  ground  cherry,  nightshade,  tobacco, 
and  petunia.  Most  of  the  members  of  this  family  are  natives  of 
tropical  regions,  which  accounts  for  the  fact  that  they  are  ''  tender  " 
and  liable  to  injury  from  frosts  when  grown  in  temperate  regions. 

Project  I.     Growing  Tomatoes 

The  tomato  belongs  to  the  family  Solanaceae.  It  is  usually 
referred  to  as  the  Nightshade  family.  In  this  family  the  foliage 
is  strong-scented  and  in  many  species  the  fruit  is  poisonous  or 
narcotic.  The  tomato  was  early  known  as  "  Love  Apple  "  and 
was  long  regarded  with  suspicion,  doubtless  on  account  of  its 
undesirable  relatives,  such  as  the  nightshades.  It  is  a  native 
of  South  America,  where  it  is  still  to  be  found  in  the  wild  condi- 
tion. It  has  a  fibrous  root  system.  When  the  young  plants  are 
transplanted  some  of  the  fine  rootlets  wilt  or  are  destroyed  and 
new  roots  with  greater  vigor  are  developed.  In  this  way  trans- 
planting may  increase  the  vigor  of  the  plants. 

The  leaves  are  compound  and  stalked  and  arranged  alternately 
on  the  stem.  Since  the  leaves  are  the  food-making  organs 
of  the  plant,  anything  that  interferes  with  their  development 
will  affect  the  yield  of  fruit.  If  the  leaves  are  not  a  healthy 
green  color,  do  not  grow  to  full  size,  are  injured  by  insects,  or  are 

37 


38  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

spotted  by  the  growth  of  fungi,  the  crop  of  fruit  is  sure  to  be 
affected. 

The  fruit  is  a  true  berry,  a  fleshy  fruit  with  the  seeds  em- 
bedded in  a  pulpy  mass  as  in  a  grape  or  currant.  The  seeds  are 
numerous  and  small.  There  are  many  varieties  of  the  tomato, 
differing  especially  in  the  arrangement,  size,  shape,  and  color  of 
the  fruit.  These  numerous  varieties  that  have  been  produced 
by  breeding  in  cultivation  can  be  reduced  to  five  botanical  types 
or  groups,  although  it  has  been  estimated  that  seedsmen  offer  as 
many  as  175  so-called  varieties. 

In  order  that  the  fruit  may  set  well,  the  flowers  must  be  well 
pollinated.  Out  of  doors  no  assistance  is  necessary,  but  in  green- 
houses jarring  the  plants  or  other  means  of  artificially  trans- 
ferring the  pollen  is  required.  The  flowers  are  usually  self-polli- 
nated and  there  is  not  much  tendency  for  varieties  to  cross  even  if 
grown  close  together.  The  flowers  are  perfect;  the  corolla  is 
wheel-shaped  and  five-  or  six-parted. 

1.  What  are  some  of  the  near  relatives  of  the  tomato? 

2.  How  can  you  explain  the  fact  that  the  tomato  is  "  tender  ''? 

3.  How  does  transplanting  tend  to  increase  the  vigor  of  young 

plants? 

4.  Can  you  tell  by  the  leaves  whether  a  plant  is  healthy  and  vig- 

orous? 

6.   What  kind  of  fruit  is  the  tomato? 

6.  How  many  botanical  types  of  tomatoes  are  there?    How  many 

varieties? 

7.  What  is  pollination?     What  kind  occurs  in  the  tomato  flowers? 


SOLANACEOUS   CROP  PROJECTS  39 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Why  grow  tomatoes  V 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Constructing  the  hotbed. 

6.  Constructing  the  cold  frame. 

7.  Making  plant  boxes. 

8.  Making  straw  mats. 

9.  Sowing  seed. 

10.  Caring  for  the  seedlings. 

1 1 .  Making  paper  pots. 

12.  Transplanting. 

13.  Hardening  the  plants. 

14.  Preparing  the  garden  soil. 

15.  Planting  in  the  garden. 

16.  Planting  with  other  vegetables. 

17.  Cultivating. 

18.  Training  the  plants. 

19.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

20.  •  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  tomatoes?  —  The  tomato  is  one  of  our  most  im- 
portant garden  crops.  Thousands  of  acres  of  tomatoes  are 
grown  annually  to  supply  the  enormous  demand  of  the  markets 
and  of  the  canning  factories.  The  fruit  is  so  popular  among 
American  consumers  that  it  is  rarely  omitted  in  the  crops  of  the 
home  garden. 

1.  Is  there  a  considerable  demand  for  tomatoes  on  your  local 

market  ? 

2.  Can  you  ship  tomatoes  and  realize  a  profit  ? 


40  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  Is  the  tomato  a  profitable  crop  in  your  community  ? 

4.  How  important  is  the  tomato  as  a  home  garden  crop  ?     L :  244. 

5.  What  is  the  general  commercial  importance  of  the  tomato  crop? 

L :  244.     Tra :  18. 

6.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  the  tomato  f 

7.  What  are  its  main  botanical  characteristics  f 

8.  How  does  it  compare  with  other  vegetables  in  food  value?      What 

is  its  chemical  composition? 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  The  tomato  may  be  grown  success- 
fully in  any  fertile  garden  soil,  provided  it  is  well  drained.  Soils 
containing  considerable*  sand  are  especially  valuable  in  growing 
the  early  crop,  but  most  excellent  yields  are  obtained  from  even 
the  very  heavy  types  of  soil.  The  lighter  soils,  however,  are 
easier  to  work,  and,  if  available,  should  be  chosen  in  preference  to 
heavy  clay  loams. 

If  tomatoes  are  grown  on  the  same  land  year  after  year,  de- 
structive diseases  will  soon  appear.  It  is  important,  therefore,  to 
grow  tomatoes  in  rotation  with  other  vegetables,  or  preferably  in 
rotation  with  general  farm  crops. 

It  is  important  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  tomato  is  a  '*  tender  " 
vegetable,  and  that  the  plants  grow  and  fruit  better  on  southern 
exposures  affording  protection  from  hard  winds,  than  on  cold 
northern  or  western  slopes. 

1.  What  soil  is  best  for  tomatoes  ? 

W-VG  :  452.      Tra :  33-37. 

2.  Have  you  a  suitable  soil  for  growing  tomatoes  ?    Describe  it. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS 


41 


3.  Should  tomatoes  be  grown  in  the  same  soil  year  after  year? 

W-VG  :  473.     L  :  83.     C  :  4. 

4.  Does  the  soil  which  you  have  selected  need  drainage  ?     How 

do  you  know  ? 

6.   What  is  the  best  exposure  of  the  land  for  growing  tomatoes  ? 

6.  What  are  the  advantages  of  sandy  soils  f     W-VG  :  25. 

7.  What  are  the  disadvantages  of  heavy,  clay  soils  f 


3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  Great  progress  has  been  made  in  the 
development  of  varieties.  There  are  now  so  many  good  varieties 
that  it  is  often  difficult  to  decide  which  are  best  for  a  particular 
purpose. 

Varieties  differ  in  vigor  and  habit  of  growth  (Tra :  97-111). 
For  example,  the  plants  of  the  Stone,  an  old  well-known 
sort,  are  vigorous  and 
spreading,  those  of 
the  Earliana  are  not 
so  vigorous,  and  the 
plants  of  a  variety 
like  Dwarf  Stone  are 
vigorous  and  upright 
in  habit  of  growth. 

Some  varieties,  as 
the  Earliana,  mature 
early,  while  others,  as 
the  Stone,  mature  late.  Again,  varieties  differ  in  the  color  of  the 
fruit.  Red  kinds  predominate ;  there  are  many  pink  and  purple- 
fruited  varieties  and  a  few  yellow  ones. 

Among  the  early  varieties,  Earliana  is  the  best  known  and  the 
most  largely  grown.    The  plants  are  productive,  fruits  are  red  in 


Fig.  2.  —  Bonny  Best  tomato,  an  excellent  type  for 
commercial  gardening,  largely  grown  under  glass. 


42  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

color,  and  they  ripen  as  early  as  any  other  variety.  Bonny  Best 
is  a  better  variety  in  some  respects  than  Earliana,  but  it  begins 
to  ripen  several  days  later.  The  fruits  are  red,  solid,  and  of  good 
size.  Chalk's  Jewel  is  somewhat  similar  to  Bonny  Best.  It  is  a 
red  tomato  of  large  size.  June  Pink  is  a  popular  early  pink  sort, 
and  Globe  is  a  pink,  medium  early  tomato  that  has  made  many 
friends. 

Of  the  large  red  varieties,  Stone  and  Matchless  are  the  most 
popular.     Beauty  and  Trucker's  Favorite  are  excellent  pink  sorts. 

Earliana,  Bonny  Best,  and  Matchless,  planted  early  and  at 
the  same  time,  should  give  a  succession  of  fruit  from  early  in  July 
until  frost  kills  the  plants  in  the  fall. 

There  are  many  other  varieties  of  merit,  but  we  should  select 
those  which  produce  large  crops  of  smooth,  solid  tomatoes,  and 
which  are  liked  by  the  family  or  by  the  market  to  be  supplied. 

1.  What  varieties  are  preferred  by  your  local  market? 

2.  What  varieties  are  liked  best  by  your  family  ? 

3.  What  varieties  should  be  selected  for  a  succession  of  fruits  ? 

4.  Select  varieties  that  you   will  plant.     Give   reasons   for  their 

selection. 

5.  Name  the  leading  early  varieties. 

W-VG  :  454.     C  :  442. 

6.  Name  the  leading  late  varieties. 

W-VG  :  455.     C  :  442. 

7.  Classify  by  color  the  varieties  that  you  know.  ' 

8.  What  varieties  are  grown  most  largely  for  canning? 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  43 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  The  greatest  care  should  be  exercised  in 
procuring  seed.  Inferior  seed  is  often  the  cause  of  a  poor  crop. 
Saving  home-grown  seed  is  common.  It  is  an  exceedingly  inter- 
esting proposition  and  might  be  tried  in  a  limited  way  even  by 
beginners.  Selections  should  be  made  from  healthy  plants,  bear- 
ing a  heavy  crop  of  large,  well-shaped  tomatoes.  The  cluster  of 
fruit  shown  in  Fig.  2  is  of  the  type  from  which  seed  should  be 
selected.  The  actual  saving  and  curing  of  tomato  seed  is  a  simple 
matter.  Only  ripe  specimens  should  be  chosen.  They  are  cut 
or  broken  and  placed  in  any  convenient  vessel.  Fermentation 
will  soon  loosen  the  mucilaginous  covering  of  the  seeds.  It  is 
well  to  stir  the  mass  of  pulp  and  seeds  several  times  until  the  cov- 
ering of  the  seeds  is  loose,  then  the  seeds  are  readily  separated  from 
the  pulp  by  washing.  The  pulp  and  light  seeds  rise  to  the  top  of 
the  water  and  are  poured  off.  A  few  changes  of  water  will  result 
in  clean  seed,  which  should  then  be  spread  on  a  cloth  to  dry  before 
being  stored.  Any  Hving  room  will  furnish  suitable  conditions 
for  storing  tomato  seed.  If  the  seed  is  not  saved  at  home,  it 
should  be  purchased  from  reputable  dealers,  and  the  order  should 
be  placed  as  early  in  the  year  as  possible.  An  ounce  of  tomato 
seed  should  produce  at  least  4,000  plants. 

1.  Where  can  you  buy  good  seed  of  the  varieties  selected? 

2.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  for  your  tomato  project? 

3.  Is  it  desirable  to  buy  a  surplus  for  next  year  ?     If  so,  why  ? 

4.  How  and  where  should  tomato  seed  be  stored  f 

5.  Does  it  pay  to  save  seed  at  home?     When  and  why? 

W-VG:456.    W-VG :  92.    W-VG :  90.     L:16. 


44  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

6.  How  should  tomato  seed  be  selected,  cleaned,  and  stored? 

W-VG:  97-99.     L:  17.     Tra :  112. 

7.  Hoiv  many  years  will  tomato  seed  retain  its  mtalityf 

5.  Constructing  the  hotbed.  —  In  northern  sections,  toma- 
toes are  always  started  where  there  is  at  least  some  artificial  heat. 
In  thousands  of  homes  a  sunny  window  serves  the  purpose,  but 
a  well-constructed  hotbed  has  special  advantages.  Whether  the 
tomatoes  are  w^anted  for  market  or  for  the  home  table,  earliness 
is  an  exceedingly  important  factor. 

The  hotbed  should  be  located  near  the  residence,  if  possible, 
for  it  may  require  attention  several  times  a  day.  It  should  also 
be  near  an  abundant  supply  of  water.  Any  protection  afforded 
by  buildings,  trees,  fences,  or  hills  on  the  north  or  northwest  will 
be  a  great  advantage.  Southern  and  southeastern  exposures  are 
preferred.     Good  soil  drainage  is  also  essential. 

The  hotbed  pit  should  be  dug  in  the  fall  before  the  ground  is 
frozen  to  any  considerable  depth.  It  should  be  dug  so  that  the 
sash  will  slope  to  the  south  or  southeast.  The  depth  of  the  pit 
will  depend  largely  on  the  severity  of  the  climate  and  the  time  the 
seed  is  to  be  sown.  Two  feet  of  manure,  or  a  pit  about  two  feet 
deep,  is  entirely  satisfactory,  for  most  sections  of  the  North. 

The  frame  may  be  built  of  wood,  concrete,  brick,  or  stone. 
Home  gardeners  generally  line  the  pit  with  plank  or  boards  and 
construct  a  wooden  frame  for  the  top.  The  upper  or  north  side 
of  the  frame  should  be  about  6  inches  higher  than  the  lower  or 
south  side.  If  the  hotbed  is  to  be  used  year  after  year,  a  concrete 
frame  will  be  found  more  economical. 

The  standard  hotbed  sash  is  3x6  feet  in  size,  and  the  smaller 
hotbeds  are  generally  made  to  accommodate  either  two  or  four 
sashes,  thus  being  6x6  feet  or  6x12  feet  in  size.  It  is  a  simple 
matter  to  paint  and  glaze  the  sash  at  home. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP   PROJECTS  45 

Horse  manure  is  used  almost  exclusively  for  the  making  of  hot- 
beds. It  should  be  fresh  and  in  the  proportion  of  about  two 
parts  of  solid  excrement  to  one  part  of  straw  litter.  (Shavings 
manure  is  unsatisfactory  because  it  does  not  ferment  rapidly 
enough.)  The  horse  manure  should  be  kept  under  cover  in  a  square 
compact  pile  about  4  feet  high,  until  heating  or  fermentation  is  well 
started.  The  piles  should  be  turned  and  restacked  when  the 
fermentation  is  well  under  way  and  perhaps  turned  the  second 
time  before  the  manure  is  placed  in  the  pit.  Several  days  to  a 
week  may  be  required  to  prepare  the  manure  properly  for  the  pit. 
If  it  is  too  dry  to  heat  satisfactorily,  a  few  sprinkling  cans  of  hot 
water  may  be  added  to  advantage.  The  mistake  should  not  be 
made  of  filling  the  pit  until  practically  the  entire  mass  of  manure 
is  thoroughly  hot. 

It  is  important  to  tramp  and  pack  the  manure  as  it  is  forked 
into  the  pit.  The  manure  will  settle  several  inches  and  allowance 
should  be  made  for  this.  If  the  seed  is  to  be  sown  without  the  use 
of  flats  or  plant  boxes,  the  manure  should  be  covered  with  4  to  6 
inches  of  good  soil,  but  2  inches  will  be  sufficient  if  flats  are  em- 
ployed. Some  growers  do  not  use  any  soil  on  the  manure,  if  the 
plants  are  started  in  boxes,  but  place  the  boxes  directly  on  top  of 
the  manure.  The  frame  of  the  hotbed  should  be  kept  banked  to 
the  top  with  strawy  horse  manure. 

1.  What  are  the  advantages  of  a  hotbed  ? 

W-VG  :  103.     L :  60.     C  :  57. 

2.  Where  should  the  hotbed  be  located  ?     W-VG  :  104. 

3.  What  should  be  the  depth  of  the  hotbed  pit  ?     When  should 

it  be  dug? 
W-VG  :  105.     Tra :  51. 


46  VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 

4.  How  should  the  frame  be  constructed? 

W-VG:  106.     L:  63. 

5.  Prepare  estimate  of  lumber  and  nails  needed  to  build  your 

hotbed. 

6.  What  size  sash  will  you  use  ? 

7.  What  size  hotbed  will  you  need  for  your  tomato  project? 

8.  How  much  and  what  kind  of  manure  will  be  required  for  your 

hotbed  ? 
W-VG  :  109.     L  :  60-62.     C  :  57. 

9.  Explain  the  preparation  of  the  manure  for  the  hotbed. 

W-VG:  110. 

10.  Explain  the  filling  of  the  pit. 

W-VG:  110.     L:  60-62. 

11.  How  much  soil  should  be  placed  on  top  of  the  manure? 

12.  How  can  you  determine  when  the  temperature  of  the  hotbed 

and  of  the  manure  is  suitable  for  sowing  ? 

13.  Should  any  manure  be  placed  outside  of  the  frame  ?     Why  ? 

14.  What  chemical  changes  take  place  in  the  fermentation  of  horse 

manure  f 

15.  To  what  extent  can  other  vegetable  matter  besides  horse  manure 

be  employed  in  the  making  of  a  hotbed  f 

16.  Explain  the  construction  of  concrete  hotbed  frames. 

6.   Construction  of  cold  frames.  — The  cold  frame  is  generally 
built  on  top  of  the  ground,  or  perhaps  a  slight  excavation  is  made, 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS 


47 


but  it  is  seldom  that  heat  is  provided,  hence  the  name  "  cold 
frame."  Extensive  commercial  growers  often  heat  their  frames 
with  steam  or  hot  water  pipes,  but  in  these  instances  the  word 
"  frame  "  is  more  properly  applied  than  the  term  "  cold  frame." 


Fig.  3.  —  A  well-constructed  cold  frame  with  narrow  strips  nailed  on  the  cross 
pieces.     A  small  hotbed  back  of  the  cold  frame. 


Cold  frames,  like  hotbeds,  should  be  located  near  the  residence 
and  near  water,  and  there  should  be  as  thorough  protection  as 
possible  from  hard,  cold  winds. 

The  ground  should  be  graded  level  before  the  frame  is  placed. 
This  precaution  is  necessary  from  the  standpoint  of  thorough  and 
uniform  watering. 

If  the  tomato  plants  are  to  be  set  directly  in  the  soil  of  the  cold 
frame,  special  care  should  be  taken  in  the  preparation  of  the  soil. 
(See  page  63.) 


48 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


The  tomato  seedlings  should  be  kept  in  the  hotbed  until  they 
are  four  or  five  weeks  old  and  then  transplanted,  utilizing  all  of 
the  hotbed  as  well  as  the  cold  frame. 


Fig.  4.  —  Cold  frame  well  ventilated;  board  fence  constructed  for  windbreak. 

1.  Where  will  you  locate  the  cold  frame  ? 

W^VG  :  14.     L  :  58. 

2.  How  will  you  construct  the  frame  ? 

W-VG:  114-117.     L:  66.     C:  55-57. 

3.  How  will  you  prepare  the  soil?    W-VG  :  117. 

4.  Estimate  material  required  to  build  the  cold  frame  for  your 

tomato  project. 


7.  Making  plant  boxes. — When  hotbeds  and  cold  frames  are 
employed  in  the  starting  of  early  vegetables,  plant  boxes,  com- 
monly called  *'  flats,"  are  practically  indispensable.     They  are  so 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  49 

convenient  and  have  so  many  advantages  that  gardeners  who 
have  once  used  them  do  not  care  to  grow  plants  without  them. 
One  of  the  greatest  advantages  is  that  all  of  the  work  of  seed  sow- 
ing and  transplanting  of  the  seedlings  can  be  done  in  a  warm,  com- 
fortable room,  regardless  of  weather  conditions,  and  then  the 
flats  may  be  quickly  conveyed  to  the  hotbed  or  cold  frame.  When 
the  plants  are  ready  for  the  field  or  garden,  it  is  again  convenient 
to  place  the  flats  on  a  vehicle  and  transport  them  to  the  area  where 
the  plants  are  wanted. 

Any  kind  of  thin  lumber  may  be  used  in  making  flats.  Chest- 
nut is  very  durable  and  with  proper  care  the  flats  will  last  several 
A'ears.  Many  gardeners  make  flats  from  various  kinds  of  wooden 
boxes  that  may  be  obtained  from  retail  merchants.  Flats  should 
be  made  of  such  dimensions  that  they  will  fit  in  the  hotbed  or  cold 
frame  with  practically  no  loss  of  space.  They  are  usually  2  to  3 
inches  deep ;  the  length  and  width  are  extremely  variable,  though 
IGXllJ  is  a  convenient  size. 

Flats  when  not  in  use  should  be  kept  under  cover.  They  should 
be  looked  over  annually  and  repaired  whenever  they  need  atten- 
tion. 

1.  Do  you  intend  to  use  flats  in  starting  your  early  tomato  plants? 

2.  What  are  the  advantages  of  flats?    W-VG  :  152. 

3.  What  kind  of  lumber  may  be  used  in  making  flats  ? 

W-VG:  152. 

4.  What  should  be  their  dimensions  for  use  in  your  hotbed  and 

cold  frame  ? 

5.  How  many  flats  will  be  required  to  start  your  tomato  plants? 


50  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

6.  Estimate  lumber  and  nails  required  to  make  the  flats  you  will 

need. 

7.  What  are  the  relative  merits  of  deep  and  shallow  flats? 

8.  How  should  flats  be  cared  for  when  not  in  use? 

9.  What  does  it  cost  to  make  flats? 

8.  Making  straw  mats.  —  Protection  in  addition  to  glass  sash 
is  often  necessary  on  both  hotbeds  and  cold  frames.  Of  the  vari- 
ous devices  used  for  this  purpose,  rye  straw  mats  are  the  most 
satisfactory.  Either  hand-  or  machine-made  mats  may  be  pur- 
chased from  dealers  or  seed  supply  houses,  or  they  may  be  made 
by  hand  at  home.  They  are  usually  4|  feet  wide  X  7  feet  long, 
and  from  1|  to  2  inches  thick.  When  not  in  use,  mats  should  be 
kept  in  a  dry  place  where  rats  and  mice  cannot  damage  them. 

Straw  mats  may  be  made  at  home  as  follows :  Make  a  frame 
of  2X4  inch  planks  the  size  of  the  mats  desired.  Drive  heavy 
nails  along  one  end  of  the  frame  about  6  inches  apart.  Strong 
cord,  preferably  tar  cord  such  as  is  used  for  baling  corn  fodder, 
is  the  most  durable  tying  material  for  use  in  the  making  of  straw 
mats.  A  piece  of  cord  is  tied  to  each  nail,  stretched  the  length 
of  the  frame,  then  drawn  through  a  loop  of  temporary  cord  on 
the  inside  of  the  opposite  end  of  the  frame,  and  pulled  tightly. 
Two  bundles  of  rye  straw,  each  of  a  size  that  can  be  held  con- 
veniently between  the  thumb  and  finger,  are  then  placed  across 
the  cords  at  the  end  of  the  frame,  with  the  tops  overlapping 
in  the  middle.  The  loose  ends  of  the  cords,  which  should  be 
wrapped  on  spools,  are  drawn  around  the  straw  bundles  and  under 
the  tightly  stretched  cords,  making  half-knots  and  drawn  tightly ; 
two  more  lots  of  straw  are  then  placed  on  the  cords  and  the  oper- 
ation repeated  until  the  other  end  of  the  frame  is  reached,  where 
the  ends  of   the   cords   are   tied    together.     The  making  of  the 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS 


51 


mats  is  completed  by  trimming  the  butts  of  straw  along  both 

sides  of  the  frame.     While   the  mat  is  being  made,  the    frame 

should  be  stood  on  end  and  leaned  against  the  side  of  room  or 
building. 

1.  Will  you  need  mats  to  protect  your  plants  in  the  hotbed  ?    Why? 

In  the  cold  frame  ?     Why  ?        W-VG  :  154. 

2.  Explain  the  making  of  straw  mats. 

3.  How  should  mats  be  handled  and  stored  in  order  to  make  them 

last  for  the  longest  possible  period  ? 

4.  Describe  other  kinds  of  mats  that  might  be  made  or  bought. 

9.   Sowing  seed.  —  Soil  for  the  starting  of  tomato  plants  should 
be  stored  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  so  that  it  will  not  be  in  a  frozen 


Fig.  5.  —  Firming  the  soil  in  preparation  for  seed  sowing. 


52 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


condition  when  wanted  for  use  the  following  spring.  Any  good 
garden  soil  will  be  suitable  for  this  purpose.  It  should  contain 
considerable  organic  matter,  commonly  called  humus,  and  a 
liberal  proportion  of  sand.     Market  gardeners  often  prepare  the 


Fig.  G.  —  Marking  the  rows  for  seed  sowing. 

soil  for  the  starting  of  plants  by  mixing  about  two  parts  of  soil 
with  one  part  of  sand  and  one  part  of  manure.  Two  to  three 
pints  of  air-slaked  lime  to  each  bushel  of  soil  will  be  found  to  be 
an  advantage. 

If  the  student  will  keep  in  mind  that  oxygen,  heat,  and  moisture 
are  required  for  the  germination  of  all  kinds  of  seed,  he  will  be  more 
likely  to  make  a  seed  bed  that  will  provide  suitable  conditions 
for  germination. 

The  proper  amount  of  moisture  is  especially  important.  This 
matter  should  have  careful  attention  even  before  the  seeds  are 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS 


53 


sown.     Very  dry  soil  may  be  quickly  and  easily  moistened  by 
sprinkling  as  it  is  turned  or  shoveled  over. 

As  previously  stated  (W  :  48)  flats  are  very  convenient  for  start- 
ing all  kinds  of  early  vegetable  plants.     Most  growers  prefer  to 


Fig. 


vjwiuj^  seed  from  an  envelope. 


SOW  the  seed  in  rows  rather  than  broadcast.  The  rows  should  be 
about  two  inches  apart  and  the  furrows  one  fourth  to  one  half  inch 
deep.  It  is  customary  to  make  the  furrows  with  a  straight,  nar- 
row strip  of  wood,  such  as  a  piece  of  lath,  or  marker  (Fig,  6), 
which  should  be  slightly  shorter  than  the  width  of  the  flat.  The 
seed  should  be  carefully  distributed  in  the  furrow  at  the  rate  of 
about  12  seeds  to  the  inch.  Sowing  may  be  done  rapidly  and  uni- 
formly with  an  envelope,  held  as  shown  in  Fig.  7,  or  the  seed  may 
be  distributed  by  taking  a  few  at  a  time  between  the  fingers. 
After  the  furrows  are  closed  in  any  way  most  convenient  to  the 
gardener,  the  soil  should  be  firmed  with  a  block  of  wood  and  then 


54  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

thoroughly  watered.  If  the  seed  box  is  covered  with  heavy  paper, 
evaporation  will  take  place  slowly  and  germination  will  be  has- 
tened. 

The  time  of  sowing  will  depend  on  the  climate,  varieties  selected, 
and  purpose  of  the  crop.  In  most  sections  of  the  North,  about 
March  1  to  10  will  be  found  as  early  as  it  is  expedient  to  sow  in 
hotbeds.  If  Earliana,  Bonny  Best,  Chalk's  Jewel,  and  Matchless 
are  sown  at  this  time,  a  succession  of  fruit  should  be  available  from 
early  in  July  until  frost  occurs  in  the  fall. 

1.  What  steps  are  necessary  in  selecting,  storing,  and  preparing 

soil  for  starting  early  vegetable  plants?     W-VG  :  130-131. 

2.  Explain  sowing  of  seed  in  fiats. 

L:  244.    W-VG:  133,  134,151,  154,  456-458.  Tra:  59-60. 

3.  Are  you  certain  that  your  seed  will  grow?    Why? 

4.  What  is  the  proper  time  for  you  to  sow  ? 

W-VG:  131.     W-VG:  456-458.     L:  244. 

6.   How  many  flats  must  be  sown  to  start  enough  plants  for  your 
tomato  project? 

6.  What  percentage  of  the  seed  should  grow?  How  do  you  know? 

7.  What  are  the  requirements  for  germination? 

8.  What  is  meant  by  the  term  "  viable  "? 

9.  What  chemical  changes  occur  in  the  germination  of  seeds? 


10.   Caring  for  the   seedlings.  —  The  most  important  factor 
in  the  growing  of  good  tomato  plants  is  the  supply  of  soil  moisture. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  55 

This  must  be  carefully  regulated  by  intelligent  watering.  If  the 
soil  was  thoroughly  watered  after  the  seeds  were  sown,  and  cov- 
ered with  paper  or  burlap,  little,  if  any,  additional  water  will 
be  needed  until  the  plants  are  up,  when  the  cover  must  be  removed. 
Then  the  policy  should  be  merely  to  keep  the  soil  moist.  Over- 
watering  is  always  dangerous  and  should  be  carefully  guarded 
against,  for  a  surplus  of  water,  especially  if  the  temperature  is  a 
little  high,  is  certain  to  result  in  weak,  spindling  plants.  At  the 
same  time,  we  should  guard  against  merely  wetting  the  surface  of 
the  ground  at  frequent  intervals.  The  boxes  or  beds  should  be 
looked  after  daily  and  water  supplied  in  such  amounts  as  may  be 
indicated  by  the  soil  itself  and  also  by  the  size  and  color  of  the 
plants  —  a  light  green  color  showing  that  too  much  water  has 
been  used.  When  paper  pots  are  used,  special  care  should  be  taken 
to  avoid  overwatering.  It  is  always  preferable  to  w^ater  in  the 
morning  when  the  temperature  of  the  hotbed  is  rising,  rather  than 
in  the  evening  when  it  is  falling. 

A  temperature  of  about  70  degrees  during  the  day  and  10  to 
15  degrees  lower  at  night  is  suitable  for  the  growing  of  early  to- 
mato plants.  If  there  is  bright  sunshine,  the  temperature  may 
rise  considerably  above  70  degrees,  but  no  harm  will  be  caused  if 
the  frame  is  properly  ventilated. 

Good  judgment  should  be  exercised  in  ventilating  the  hotbed 
and  cold  frame.  Too  much  ventilation  is  just  as  objectionable 
as  too  little.  The  grower  should  observe  the  thermometer  at 
frequent  intervals  and  the  frame  should  be  opened  in  such  a  way 
as  to  avoid  cold  drafts  of  air  on  the  plants. 

Straw  mats  or  other  devices  for  covering  the  sash  at  night  will 
be  required  to  protect  the  plants.  They  should  be  placed  on  the 
sash  before  dark  and  removed  early  in  the  morning.  However, 
the  use  of  the  mats  should  be  regulated  entirely  by  weather  con- 
ditions. There  are  extremely  cold  days  in  the  North  when  the 
mats  should  not  be  removed  at  all. 


56  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


Fiu.  8.  —  Equipment  and  material  for  making  paper  pots. 


^B^Pf^^^ 

-4 

"< 

V^ 

m 

Fig.  9.  —  Folding  the  paper  around  the  block  which  is  secured  to  the  bottom  of 

flat. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS 


57 


Fig.  10.  —  The  paper  is  being  folded  over  the  top  of  the  block  in  preparation  for 
the  use  of  a  tack. 


Fig.  11.  —  Driving  a  small  tack  through  the  folds  of  paper  and  over  the  end  of  a 
bolt  that  extends  through  the  block. 


58  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  What   are   the   most  important   considerations   in   watering J* 

L:  68. 

2.  What  is  the  proper  temperature  for  tomato  plants  ? 

W-VG  :  155.     Tra :  62. 

3.  How  should  the  hotbed  or  cold  frame  be  ventilated  ? 

W-VG  :  157.     L  :  67. 

4.  Determine  the  equipment  needed  for  watering. 
6.   Explain  the  use  of  mats. 

11.  Making  paper  pots.  —  Paper  pots  have  been  found  to  be 
very  convenient  and  satisfactory  for  the  growing  of  early  plants, 
especially  tomatoes.  Though  they  are  sold  by  dealers  at  reason- 
able prices,  very  good  ones  may  be  made  at  home  at  slight  ex- 
pense. A  rectangular  strip  of  fairly  heavy  paper,  of  the  size 
required  to  make  the  pots  desired,  is  folded  around  a  square  block, 
which  is  bolted  through  the  center  to  a  table.  The  paper  is  then 
folded  in  and  clinched  in  the  center  with  a  single  upholstering 
tack  driven  over  the  end  of  the  bolt.  (Ordinary  heavy  wrapping 
paper  will  be  found  entirely  satisfactory  for  this  purpose.)  Plants 
grown  in  paper  pots  may  be  transferred  to  the  open  ground  with- 
out any  disturbance  of  the  roots.  The  pots  may  be  made  during 
the  winter  in  sufficient  number  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  spring 
planting. 

1.  What  are  the  advantages  of  paper  pots?    W-VG  :  160. 

2.  How  are  paper  pots  made?    W-VG  :  160. 

3.  Shall  you  use  paper  pots  in  your  tomato  project?     If  so,  how 

many  will  be  needed?     What  will  they  cost? 


SOLAN  ACE  OUS  CROP  PROJECTS 


59 


12.  Transplanting.  —  There  are  various  reasons  for  trans- 
planting tomato  plants.  Perhaps  the  most  important  is  the 
economy  of  space.  A  hotbed  of  very  large  size  would  be  required 
to  start  enough  plants  for  even  an  acre  of  land,  if  we  sowed  the 
seed  thinly  enough  to  provide  space  for  the  best  development  of 
the  plants.     In  fact,  it  is  not  feasible  to  attempt  to  grow  tomatoes, 


Fig.  12.  — Tomato  plants  in  a  paper  and  an  earthen  pot.     Though  paper  pots  are 
•    very  useful,  plants  seem  to  thrive  better  in  earthen  pots. 


especially  under  northern  conditions,  without  shifting  the  plants 
once  or  twice  before  they  are  set  in  the  field. 

Tomatoes  are  generally  transplanted  when  they  are  three  to 
four  weeks  old.  If  they  do  not  crowd  each  other  too  much  in  the 
hotbed,  more  time  may  be  allowed.  When  they  are  to  be  trans- 
ferred to  cold  frames,  it  is  better  to  regulate  the  time  of  sowing 
and  transplanting  so  that  the  plants  will  not  be  ready  for  the 
frame  very  much  before  the  middle  of  April,  though  much  will 


60 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


depend  on  climatic  conditions.  For  the  home  project,  the  safer 
plan  will  be  to  transplant  into  a  hotbed.  In  this  event,  no  more 
than  a  foot  of  hot  manure  will  provide  as  much  heat  as  will  be 
required.  In  most  parts  of  the  North,  it  is  entirely  safe  to  set 
tomato  plants  in  cold  frames  by  the  middle  of  April. 
The  same  kind  of  flats  that  were  described  for  seed  sowing  (W  :  48 


Fig.  13.  —  Equipment  for  seed  sowing  and  transplanting. 


and  53)  will  be  found  highly  satisfactory  when  transplanting. 
The  plants  should  be  set  about  two  inches  apart.  If  they  are  to  be 
kept  in  the  frames  more  than  two  or  three  weeks,  it  will  be  a  great 
advantage  to  make  another  shift  into  flats,  spacing  the  plants  at 
least  four  inches  apart.  Or,  the  second  shift  may  be  made  into 
paper  or  earthen  pots,  berry  baskets,  or  other  suitable  devices. 

A  transplanting  board  is  an  exceedingly  useful  device.  It  is 
made  of  inch  boards  large  enough  to  cover  the  flats  to  be  em- 
ployed.    Half-inch  holes  are  bored  in  check  rows  two  inches  apart, 


SOLANACEOUS   CROP  PROJECTS  61 

and  a  dibber  with  a  shoulder,  to  regulate  depth,  is  used  to  make 
the  holes  in  the  soil  by  thrusting  it  through  the  holes  of  the  trans- 
planting board.  The  rows  of  plants  will  then  be  perfectly  straight 
and  the  number  of  plants  in  each  flat  will  be  uniform. 

The  soil  described  for  the  seed  bed  (W :  52)  will  also  be  satis- 
factory for  this  purpose.  It  should  be  fine  and  moist  enough  to 
work  well.  The  most  important  point  to  keep  in  mind  when 
transplanting  is  that,  in  order  to  make  this  operation  successful, 
the  moist  particles  of  soil  must  be  brought  into  close  contact  with 
the  fine,  tender  roots. 

Unless  the  soil  is  very  moist,  at  least  some  water  should  be 
applied  after  the  plants  have  been  set,  and  the  flats  must  then  be 
placed  in  the  hotbed  or  cold  frame,  where  they  should  receive 
practically  the  same  treatment  as  that  recommended  for  the 
small  seedhngs  (W  :  54). 

1.  What  are  the  reasons  for  transplanting  tomatoes? 

W-VG  :  139.     L  :  49. 

2.  When  should  tomato  seedlings  be  transplanted  ? 

W-VG  :  155.    L :  49. 

3.  How  far  apart  should  the  plants  be  set  ? 

4.  Explain  the  details  of  transplanting. 

5.  Prepare  a  statement  of  the  equipment  required  to  care  for  your 

tomato  plants  after  they  have  been  removed  from  the  hotbed. 

6.  Do  you  think  flats  should  be  used  when  transplanting?     Why? 

7.  Willit  pay  to  u^e  a  transplanting  hoard?     Why? 

8.  Do  you  think  any  of  your  plants  should  he  set  in  pots  or  berry 

baskets?    W-VG:  457. 


62 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


Fig.  14.  —  Using  the  transplanting  board. 


Fig.  15.  —  Holes  made  by  the  use  of  a  transplanting  board  and  dibber;    also  a 
small  dibber  used  in  firming  the  soil  about  the  roots. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP   PROJECTS  63 

9.    What  is  the  character  of  tomato  roots  f 

10.    Is  the  root  pruning  caused  by  transplanting  small  seedlings  an 
advantage  or  a  disadvaiitagef     Why? 

13.  Hardening  the  plants.  —  When  tomato  plants  are  kept  in  a 
warm  forcing  structure  of  any  kind,  with  an  abundant  supply  of 
soil  moisture,  they  become  very  tender.  If  transferred  to  the 
open  air  when  in  such  a  succulent  condition,  they  are  easily  in- 
jured or  even  killed  by  light  frost,  drying  winds,  or  hot  sunshine. 
Disastrous  results  from  these  causes  may  be  avoided  to  a  large 
extent  by  giving  the  plants  a  certain  amount  of  ill  treatment,  so 
to  speak,  before  they  are  transplanted  into  the  open  ground. 
Water  is  withheld  after  the  plants  have  attained  nearly  the  size 
desired,  even  if  they  wilt  somewhat.  Much  more  air  is  admitted 
to  the  frames,  and  on  warm  days  the  sashes  are  removed  entirely. 
This  kind  of  treatment  for  about  a  week  has  the  tendency  to  make 
the  plant  tissues  less  succulent  and  more  firm,  so  that  they  will 
stand  rather  severe  weather  conditions  in  the  field.  Millions  of 
plants  are  lost  annually  because  this  matter  is  not  given  careful 
attention.  Even  the  most  thoroughly  hardened  tomato  plants 
will  not  survive  severe  frosts,  but  they  will  stand  light  frosts, 
hard  winds,  and  dry  weather  if  properly  planted. 

1.  What  is  meant  by  the  hardening  of  plants  ?     W-VG  :  159. 

2.  How  is  hardening  accomplished  ?     W-VG  :  159. 

3.  What  is  its  importance  ?     W-VG:  159. 

14.  Preparing  the  garden  soil.  —  There  is  an  erroneous  idea 
among  growers  of  limited  experience  that  this  vegetable  does  not 
require  high  fertility.     It  is  true  that  small  crops  of  tomatoes 


64  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

may  be  obtained  on  soils  that  would  fail  to  produce  a  marketable 
crop  of  celery  or  other  vegetables  that  require  the  most  exacting 
conditions.  But  large  yields  may  be  secured  only  from  soils  well 
filled  with  plant  food  and  organic  matter. 

The  tomato  is  often  grown  in  rotation  with  other  vegetables. 
A  limited  area  of  land  may  make  this  necessary.  It  is  a  great 
advantage,  however,  to  precede  the  crop  with  clover,  cowpeas, 
vetch,  soybeans,  or  some  other  general  farm  crop,  and  preferably 
a  legume  that  will  add  to  the  stock  of  nitrogen  in  the  soil  as  well  as 
to  the  supply  of  humus.  A  heavy  sod  of  any  kind  of  clover, 
plowed  late  in  the  fall  or  early  in  the  spring,  furnishes  ideal  soil 
conditions  for  the  growing  of  tomatoes.  It  will  be  seen  from 
these  statements  that  the  work  of  soil  preparation  may  begin  a 
year  or  more  in  advance  of  the  actual  planting  of  the  tomatoes. 

A  common  mistake  is  to  defer  the  plowing  of  the  ground  for 
tomatoes  until  nearly  planting  time,  which  may  be  the  cause  of  a 
greatly  reduced  supply  of  soil  moisture  and  of  unfavorable  physical 
conditions. 

A  harrow  should  be  used  until  the  soil  is  fine  and  level.  The 
heavy  sods  are  best  pulverized  with  a  disk  or  cutaway  harrow. 
In  small  gardens  the  soil  may  be  put  in  good  condition  by  thorough 
spading  and  careful  raking. 

Fresh  stable  manures  should  never  be  employed  for  the  grow- 
ing of  tomatoes.  Their  application  in  considerable  amounts  is 
certain  to  result  in  excessive  plant  growth  and  a  small  crop  of 
inferior  fruit.  Well-decayed  animal  manures  of  all  kinds  may  be 
used  for  this  crop  with  entire  safety,  and,  if  thoroughly  decayed, 
there  is  practically  no  danger  of  applying  too  much.  In  only 
moderately  fertile  soils  it  is  an  advantage  to  place  a  shovelful  of 
rotten  manure  in  each  hill.  The  usual  plan  is  to  apply  fresh  stable 
manure  to  the  crop  that  precedes  the  tomato  and  little,  if  any, 
manure  for  the  tomatoes. 

It  is  rarely  that  the  grower  will  not  find  it  an  advantage  to  far- 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  65 

tilize  the  tomato  with  some  form  of  phosphorus.  The  usual 
practice  is  to  employ  the  treated  phosphatic  rock,  acid  phosphate, 
containing  about  16%  of  available  phosphoric  acid.  An  applica- 
tion of  500  to  700  pounds  to  the  acre  is  probably  as  much  as  can 
be  used  to  advantage  on  any  soil.  If  potash  is  available  at  reason- 
able prices,  it  might  also  be  used  at  the  rate  of  about  100  pounds 
to  the  acre.  Nitrogen  may  also  be  needed,  and,  if  so,  nitrate  of 
soda,  50  to  100  pounds  to  the  acre,  may  be  the  cheapest  source. 
Heavier  applications  of  fertilizer  are  required  with  close  setting 
and  staking. 

All  fertilizers  should  be  applied  after  the  ground  is  plowed,  and 
mixed  with  the  soil  by  thorough  harrowing.  Small  amounts  of 
nitrate  of  soda  are  sometimes  used  as  a  top  dressing  aroimd  the 
plants,  but  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  with  a  hoe  or  cultivator. 
A  teaspoonful  to  each  plant  will  be  ample  in  quantity.  The  best 
method,  however,  is  to  apply  all  of  the  fertilizers  before  the  plants 
are  set  in  the  field. 

1.  Does  the  tomato  require  a  very  fertile  soil? 

W-VG  :  458.     C  :  438. 

2.  What  crops  should  precede  the  tomato  ? 

W-VG:  458.    W-VG  :  53.    L:  27-30. 

3.  When  should  the  land  be  plowed  ? 

W-VG:  458.     W-VG  :  29.     V:  71-73.     Sp  :  39-45. 

4.  What  should  be  the  depth  of  plowing  ? 

6.   What  implements  will  you  employ  in  preparing  the  soil  ? 
W-VG:  30-34.     0:29-34.     V:  63-74. 

6.   Should  fresh  stable  manure  be  applied  for  tomatoes? 
W-VG  :  458.     Sp  :  102. 


66  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

7.  Should  you  use  phosphorus  ?  nitrogen  ?  potassium  ? 

W-VG  :  459-460,  59-62.  C  :  438-439.       Tra  :  43-45. 

Sp:  155-161. 

8.  How  and  when  should  the  fertilizer  be  applied  ? 

W-VG  :  499,  67-68.     C  :  438-439.     Tra  :  43-45. 

9.  Estimate  the  fertilizer  materials  you  will  need  and  determine 

their  cost. 

10.  Will  home  mixing  pay?     Hoiv  is  it  done? 

W-VG  :  69.     V  :  215-218,  240-241. 

11.  Give  the  most  important  reasons  for  the  rotation  of  crops. 

12.  Discuss  the  time  of  plowing  and  harrowing  in  relation  to  soil 

moisture  problems. 

15.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  We  must  not  be  too  ambitious  in 
regard  to  the  early  planting  of  tomatoes.  We  should  never  lose 
sight  of  the  fact  that  this  is  a  tender  vegetable  and  that  frost  and 
cold  weather  may  kill  the  plants  or  at  least  seriously  injure  them. 
The  safer  plan  is  to  be  patient  and  wait  until  there  is  little  danger 
of  frost  before  risking  the  plants  in  the  open  ground.  In  most 
sections  of  the  North,  it  is  unsafe  to  set  out  the  plants  before  May 
20 ;  even  June  1  is  not  too  late  in  some  localities.  If  the  plants 
are  in  the  field  or  garden  and  there  is  danger  of  frost,  a  simple  and 
effective  method  of  protection  is  to  cover  them  with  soil.  At  first 
thought  this  may  seem  like  rough  treatment,  but  when  we  note 
the  splendid  condition  of  the  uncovered  plants  the  method  appeals 
to  us  very  strongly.  It  consists  in  drawing  a  mound  of  soil  with  a 
hilling  hoe  against  the  stem  of  the  plant,  carefully  bending  the 
plant  over  the  mound  and  covering  it  with  an  inch  or  two  of  soil. 
The  whole  operation  requires  only  a  few  moments  to  each  plant. 
If  the  weather  continues  cool,  the  plants  may  be  left  covered  for 
two  or  three  days. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  67 

The  proper  planting  distance  will  depend  on  a  number  of  fac- 
tors, but  ordinarily  4x4  feet  will  be  found  satisfactory.  Less 
space  may  be  allowed  if  the  soil  is  not  very  productive.  If  the 
plants  are  to  be  tied  to  stakes  and  pruned  to  several  stems,  they 
may  be  set  2x4  feet  apart,  and  if  to  be  trained  to  single  stems 
15  inches  X  3  feet  will  give  good  results. 

The  plants  should  be  removed  from  the  flats  or  pots  with  care, 
so  that  the  roots  will  not  be  disturbed  or  broken  unnecessarily. 
Holes  amply  large  are  made  with  a  hoe,  and  the  moist  soil  pressed 
firmly  over  and  around  the  ball  of  earth  and  roots.  If  the  plants 
are  stocky  and  well  hardened  (W  :  63)  and  properly  transplanted, 
practically  every  one  should  live,  even  if  the  weather  is  not  en- 
tirely favorable  for  transplanting. 

When  growing  tomatoes  on  a  large  scale  it  is  more  convenient 
and  less  expensive  to  make  furrows  for  the  plants  with  a  plow 
instead  of  holes  with  a  hoe. 

1.  When  should  tomato  plants  be  set  in  the  open  ground? 

W-VG:141,  460.     L  :  49. 

2.  How  far  apart  should  they  be  planted  ? 

W-VG :  460. 

3.  What  are  the  most  important  factors  in  transplanting?     Name 

some  good  methods  of  transplanting, 
W-VG  :  141-150.     L :  49-57.     C  :  39-41. 

4.  How  may  the  plants  be  protected  from  frost  ? 

16.  Companion  cropping.  —  When  two  or  more  vegetables  are 
grown  together  on  the  same  plot  of  ground,  the  system  of  crop- 
ping is  known  by  various  terms,  such  as  companion  cropping, 
double  cropping,  and  intercropping.  There  are  so  many  success- 
ful combinations  that  no  attempt  will  be  made  here  to  describe 
more  than  one  plan,  but  we  would  urge  the  student  grower  to  look 


68  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

into  the  matter.  One  of  the  best  is  to  plant  dwarf  peas  as  early 
as  possible  in  the  spring,  and  then  to  set  tomato  plants  three  or  four 
feet  apart  a  few  inches  from  the  rows  of  peas.  The  peas,  of  course, 
will  be  well  advanced  before  the  tomato  plants  are  set  out  and 
in  a  few  weeks  the  pea  vines  may  be  pulled  and  the  ground  devoted 
exclusively  to  the  tomatoes. 

1.    What  is  meant  by  companion  cropping? 
W-VG  :  475.    L :  260,  262. 


2.    What  are  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  companion  crop- 
'ngf 
W-VG  :  475.     L :  262.     C  :  5-6. 


ping  f 


3.  Describe  several  combinations  including  the  tomato. 

W-VG  :  483,  484,  486.     L :  261-262. 

4.  Will  it  pay  you  to  practice  companion  cropping f     Why? 


17.  Cultivation.  —  A  fine,  loose  surface  mulch  of  soil  should 
be  maintained  in  the  tomato  plantation  as  long  as  it  is  possible  to 
use  a  cultivator  between  the  rows.  The  importance  of  tillage  has 
been  shown  in  connection  with  plowing  (W :  64) .  Not  only  do 
weeds  grow  when  the  cultivators  are  not  used,  but  the  soil  soon 
becomes  compact,  soil  moisture  escapes  at  a  rapid  rate,  and  both 
the  physical  and  chemical  properties  of  the  soil  soon  become  un- 
favorable for  plant  growth. 

Numerous  types  of  cultivators  may  be  employed,  but  the  ones 
with  a  relatively  large  number  of  small  teeth  are  generally  better 
than  those  with  a  few  large  shovels.  Tomatoes  are  usually  cul- 
tivated with  horses,  but  the  soil  of  the  home  garden  may  be  stirred 
very  rapidly  with  a  good  wheel  hoe. 

Very  little  hand  hoeing  will  be  required  if  the  wheel  or  horse- 
cultivators  are  used  frequently  and  skillfully. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  69 


Fig.  16.  —  Inexpensive  garden  tools  of  special  value. 


\\^ 


Fig.  17.  — Hand  tools  useful  for  weeding,  making  furrows,  and  transplanting. 


70  VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 

1.  What  is  the  importance  of  cultivation  ? 

W-VG:2S.     C:2L     Tni :  76.     Sp:  00-73. 

2.  When  and  how  often  should  tomatoes  be  cultivated  ? 

L :  246. 

3.  What  cultivating  implements  will  you  need? 

W-VG :  34-40. 

4.  What  is  the  relation  of  tillage  to  the  conservation  of  soil  mois- 

ture? 

18.  Training  the  plants.  — An  exceedingly  small  percentage  of 
tomato  growers  give  any  attention  whatever  to  training  or  pruning. 
The  usual  plan  is  to  set  the  plants  3  to  .5  feet  apart  each  way  and 
to  let  them  make  a  spreading  growth  on  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

A  few  commercial  growers  and  many  home  gardeners  prefer  to 
set  the  plants  about  2x4  feet  apart.  A  strong  stake  6  feet  long 
is  driven  at  each  plant  when  it  is  set  out,  three  or  four  of  the 
strongest  branches  are  tied  to  the  stake,  and  the  others  are  removed 
before  they  have  made  much  growth.  This  is  a  highly  satis- 
factory method.  There  is  probably  no  curtailment  in  the  yield 
of  each  plant  and  twice  as  many  plants  may  be  set  to  the  acre 
as  when  they  receive  no  training.  We  must  be  assured,  of  course, 
of  the  labor  required  to  do  the  staking  and  training. 

Single  stem  training  is  universally  employed  in  the  greenhouse 
culture  of  the  tomato,  and  it  also  finds  favor  among  many  home 
gardeners.  It  consists  of  pinching  away  all  lateral  shoots,  thus 
making  a  single  stem,  which  may  be  tied  to  a  stake  or  to  a  wire 
trellis.  The  finest  specimens  are  grown  by  the  single  stem  system 
but  it  requires  considerable  labor. 

1.    What  are  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  in  training  tomatoes? 
W-VG  :  461 .     L  :  246.     Tra  :  79. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  71 

2.  Describe  the  systems  in  common  use.     What  arc  their  comparative 

merits  f 
W-VG  :  461-463.       L  :  246-248.       Tra :  79-89.       W-VF  : 
280-284. 

3.  Will  it  pay  to  train  your  plants  f  If  so,  ivhat  system  mil  you  usef 

19.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  The  solanaceous  crops, 
like  other  closely  related  groups,  comprise  a  number  of  plants, 
which  are  attacked  by  the  same  species  of  insects.    These  indi- 


FiG.  18.  —  Tomato  worm. 

viduals  so  readily  adapt  themselves  to  the  different  hosts  that  their 
habits  are  apparently  unchanged  and  in  each  instance  similar 
control  measures  are  ordinarily  practiced. 

The  potato  flea  beetle  is  perhaps  the  most  serious  pest  of  the 
newly  set  tomato,  pepper,  and  eggplant.  Leaves  riddled  with  very 
small  round  holes  like  fine  shot,  accompanied  with  small  glistening 
black  beetles  that  jump  when  disturbed,  identify  the  insect  and 
its  work. 

The  adult  beetles  pass  the  winter  in  rubbish,  emerging  in  early 
spring  to  feed  on  plantain  or  similar  weeds  until  the  cultivated 
plants  appear  above  ground  or  are  transplanted.  Eggs  are  de- 
posited in  the  soil  near  the  plants  and  from  these  hatch  very  small 
grubs  that  feed  on  the  roots,  often  causing  serious  injuries  to 
tubers  or  stunting  the  plant  growth. 

Control :    Bordeaux  mixture.     CL  :  317. 


72  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  Describe  flea  beetle  work  and  how  its  feeding  affects  the  plant. 

CL:;U4-:U7. 

2.  Name  several  plants  attacked  by  the  insect. 

CL :  314-315. 

3.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  flea  beetle  ? 

CL:  314-316. 

4.  Can  flea  beetles  be  killed  by  poison?     What  is  the  best  spray 

and  how  does  it  act  ? 
CL:317. 

5.  How  is  Bordeaux  mixture  prepared  ? 

Two  species  of  tomato  worm,  the  southern  tomato  worm  and  its 
relative,  the  northern  tomato  worm,  feed  extensively  on  tomato 
plants  or  in  a  lesser  degree  on  eggplant  foliage  throughout  their 
respective  areas.  They  are  large  greenish  or  brownish  cater- 
pillars having  at  the  rear  end  of  the  body  a  somewhat  curved, 
sharp  horn.  Feeding  by  these  caterpillars  is  most  extensive  on 
the  tomato,  where  they  work  in  the  dense  foliage,  often  detected 
only  by  excreted  material  covering  the  ground  beneath  the  plant. 

The  adult,  an  ashy  gray  moth,  deposits  single  eggs  on  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves.  From  these  the  young  caterpillars  hatch  and 
in  about  a  month  mature  and  enter  the  ground  to  pupate.  There 
may  be  several  generations  each  year,  depending  largely  on  sea- 
sonal conditions  or  the  degree  of  latitude. 

Control :  Hand  picking  or  spraying. 

1.  How  can  the  tomato  worm  he  most  easily  recognized? 

CL :  159. 

2.  Give  briefly  the  life  history  of  the  species.     Describe  any  differences. 

CL:  169-171. 


•  SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  73 

3.  What  injury  do  they  cause  and  how  may  it  be  detected  f 

CL:171. 

4.  Name  two  control  measures. 

CL:  171-172. 


Tomatoes  are  subject  to  several  diseases,  such  as  early  and 
late  blight,  which  are  the  same  as  those  that  attack  its  closely 
related  plant,  the  potato.  Both  the  early  blight  and  the  late  blight 
attack  the  foliage  of  the  tomato,  killing  it  and  thus  reducing  the 
crop  or  causing  complete  loss.  The  late  blight  also  attacks  the 
fruit  in  the  fall,  causing  it  to  decay  in  much  the  same  manner 
that  it  causes  decay  of  potato  tubers.  Another  very  common 
disease  of  tomatoes  is  known  as  Septoria  leaf  spot.  This  disease 
attacks  not  only  the  foliage  but  also  the  stems,  causing  a  circular 
gray  spot.  It  does  not  attack  the  fruit  directly.  These  three 
diseases  can  be  controlled  by  spraying  the  plants  at  a  timely 
period  and  in  a  thorough  manner  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  Various 
formulae  of  Bordeaux  are  effective  as  sprays  for  these  diseases, 
but  for  general  use  the  standard  4-4-50  formula  is  satisfactory. 
Spraying  should  be  started  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  established 
in  the  field.  In  the  cooler  climates  two  applications  are  most 
profitable  for  early  blight  and  leaf  spot.  In  the  warmer  climates 
below  the  Mason  and  Dixon  line  about  five  applications  are  more 
economical.  Where  late  blight  is  a  factor  two  or  three  late 
applications  are  necessary,  starting  when  the  first  fruits  are 
beginning  to  ripen. 

Winter  blight  is  a  destructive  disease  which  is  most  commonly 
met  with  in  growing  tomatoes  under  glass.  It  produces  a  brown 
streaking  of  the  stems  and  a  fine,  brown  spotting  of  the  leaves. 
The  fruits  are  also  attacked  and  exhibit  a  brownish,  blotched 
appearance,  which  appears  to  be  confined  chiefly  to  the  skin. 
The  disease  usually  kills  the  plants  within  two  or  three  weeks 


74  VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 

after  they  are  attacked.  It  may  be  checked  by  thorough  ventila- 
tion and  avoidance  of  overwatering.  The  application  of  potash 
also  seems  to  check  the  disease  to  some  extent.  Inasmuch  as  it 
is  spread  by  infected  seed,  great  care  must  be  exercised  in  select- 
ing the  fruits  from  which  seed  is  to  be  taken.  The  diseased 
seeds  may  be  detected  by  cutting  open  the  ripened  fruits  and 
examining  for  brown  or  blackish  spots.  If  spots  are  present  on 
even  a  few  seeds  such  fruits  should  be  discarded. 

Damping  off  and  root-rots  are  diseases  caused  by  fungi,  which 
live  in  the  soil  and  attack  the  tomato  plants  while  they  are  in 
the  seedling  stage  or  before  they  are  fully  established  in  the  field. 
They  are  most  destructive  as  seed-bed  diseases  and  as  such  may 
be  controlled  by  sterilizing  the  soil  in  the  seed  bed  each  year 
with  steam  or  formaldehyde.  They  are  most  often  brought  on 
by  overwatering  the  young  plants,  and  the  condition  can  be  par- 
tially corrected  by  limiting  the  water  supply. 

Wilt  or  sleepy  disease  is  an  extremely  destructive  disease  which 
is  most  prevalent  in  the  warmer  climates.  It  is  caused  by  a 
fungus,  Fusarium  lycopersici,  which  lives  in  the  soil  and  attacks 
the  plants  through  the  roots.  The  vascular  system  of  the  plant 
is  invaded  and  the  supply  of  water  thus  limited,  which  causes 
the  plants  to  wilt.  Several  strains  of  tomatoes  have  been 
developed  which  are  highly  resistant  to  this  disease.  Among 
such  varieties  are  Marvel,  Arlington,  and  Columbia,  which  are 
well  worth  growing  where  wilt  is  a  factor  in  tomato  production. 

There  are  several  fruit  rots  that  attack  the  tomato  late  in  the 
season.  They  are  caused  by  various  fungi,  which  are  favored  in 
their  attack  by  injuries  that  break  the  epidermis.  Keeping 
the  patch  clean  of  old  plant  refuse  and  training  the  plants  on 
stakes  to  keep  the  fruits  off  the  ground  are  the  best  means  for 
combating  these  troubles. 

Blossom  end  rot  is  a  common  disease,  characterized  by  a  dry 
decay,  which    always    starts  at  the    blossom  end  of  the  fruit. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  75 

Unequal  moisture  content  of  the  soil  is  the  most  common  pre- 
disposing factor  bringing  on  the  disease.  It  is  therefore  advisable 
to  regulate  watering  as  carefully  as  possible.  A  light  mulch  or 
frequent  cultivation  tends  to  regulate  the  moisture  content  of  the 
soil  and  lessen  this  trouble. 

1.  What  other  crop  do  some  of  the  diseases  of  tomato  affect? 

Why  ? 

2.  Why  do  foliage  diseases  reduce  the  amount  of  fruit  ? 

3.  What  diseases  are  controllable  by  sprajring  with  Bordeaux  ? 

4.  How  should  winter  blight  be  treated  ?     In  what  way  may  the 

seeds  of  tomatoes  be  selected  to  eliminate  disease  ? 

5.  What   conditions   are   favorable  to  the   spread  of   the  fungi 

causing  "  damping  ofif "  ? 
SH:  14-21. 

6.  What  effect  do  steaming  and  formaldehyde  treatment  have  upon 

these  organisms? 
SH :  460-465. 

7.  What   relationship   exists  between   climate   and   certain   tomato 

diseases f 

8.  0/  what  value  is  sanitation  in  the  control  of  disease  f 

SH:  16-17 

9.  What  can  he  done  to  lessen  the  amount  of  blossom  end  rotf 

SH :  263-264. 


20.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Tomatoes  are  always  better 
in  quality  if  allowed  to  become  fully  ripe  before  they  are  picked. 
This  is  possible  for  the  home  table,  but  when  the  fruits  are  hauled 


76  VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 

or  shipped  considerable  distances  to  market,  it  is  important  for 
them  to  be  only  partially  ripe,  depending  upon  the  length  of  time 
that  will  probably  intervene  before  they  reach  the  table  of  the 
consumer. 

Tomatoes  should  always  be  handled  with  care  in  order  that 
there    may   be    no    unnecessary  bruising.     If    they    are    to    be 


Fig.  19.  —  Assortment  of  parcel  post  packages. 

marketed,  they  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned,  preferably  by 
wiping  with  a  damp  cloth ;  their  stems  removed  ;  graded ;  and 
packed  neatly  and  artistically  in  clean,  attractive  packages. 

Many  forms  of  packages  are  employed  for  marketing  to- 
matoes. In  naost  instances  it  is  desirable  to  use  the  package 
preferred  by  the  markets  to  be  supplied. 

Probably  the  average  yield  of  tomatoes  in  the  United  States 
is  less  than  100  bushels  to  the  acre,  but  this  is  a  very  small  crop 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  77 

and  intelligent  growers  ought  to  do  much  better.  Thousands  of 
gardeners  obtain  yields  of  much  more  than  100  bushels  to  the 
acre.  In  fact,  500  bushels,  or  12  to  15  tons,  to  the  acre  is  not  an 
unusual  yield,  and  with  good  management  this  is  not  a  difficult 
achievement. 

1.  When  should  tomatoes  be  picked  ? 

W-VG  :  162-165.     C  :  440-441 .     Tra :  90-92. 

2.  How  should  they  be  prepared  for  market  ? 

W-VG  :  166-168.     C:441.     Tra  :  92-96. 

3.  What  is  the  best  method  of  packing  for  your  market? 

W-VG  :  168-176.      L  :  292.      C:441.      Tra  :  92-96. 

4.  How  will  you  grade  your  tomatoes  ? 

5.  What  kind  and  how  many  packages  will  you  need  to  market 

your  crop  ? 

YV -VG :  168-174.     Manufacturers'  catalogues. 

6.  How  many  bushels  or  tons  of  tomatoes  should  an  acre  produce? 

7.  What  does  it  cost  per  acre  and  per  ton  to  grow  tomatoes? 

8.  Can  you  suggest  a  special  plan  for  marketing  that  might  increase 

your  profits? 

Project  II.     Growing  Eggplants 

The  eggplant  is  an  annual  herbaceous  plant  finally  becoming 
somewhat  woody.  It  belongs  to  the  potato  family.  The  leaves 
are  simple,  large,  thick,  and  sinuately  lobed.  The  fruit  is  a 
large  berry,  smooth,  and  variable  in  color.  The  genus  is  a  native 
of  India  and  all  cultivated  varieties  require  high  temperature  for 
satisfactory  growth. 


78  VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 

1.  To  what  plants  is  the  eggplant  related  ? 

2.  What  is  the  nature  of  the  fruit  of  the  eggplant  ? 

3.  What  climatic  condition  is  favorable  for  the  growth  of  the  egg- 

plant? 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Importance  of  the  crop. 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Starting  plants. 

5.  Preparing  soil. 

6.  Planting  in  the  garden. 

7.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

8.  Marketing. 

1.   Importance  of  the  crop.  —  The  eggplant  is  not  comparable 
in  importance  to  the  tomato,  either  for  the  home  table  or  for 


Fig.  20.  —  New  York  Improved  eggplant. 


market.     Nevertheless,  some  people  are  extremely  fond  of  this 
vegetable  and  good  specimens  generally  command  attractive  prices. 


SOLAN ACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  79 

Market  possibilities  should  be  investigated  before  undertaking 
the  culture  of  eggplants  on  a  commercial  scale. 

1.  IVhat  is  the  importance  of  the  eggplant  f     W-VG  :  339.     C  :  259. 

2.  Where  is  it  grown  most  extensively? 

3.  Do  you  think  it  would  pay  you  to  grow  eggplants f     Why? 

4.  What  is  the  history  of  the  eggplant? 

5.  How  does  it  differ  from  the  tomato  botanically? 

6.  How  is  it  prepared  for  the  table? 

7.  Dissect  and  carefully  study  the  fruit. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  The  eggplant  is  far  more  exacting  in 
its  cultural  requirements  than  the  tomato.  It  demands  higher 
temperatures  for  the  best  results  and  thrives  only  in  well-drained 
soils  fully  supplied  with  vegetable  matter  and  plant  food.  Sandy 
loams  are  best  adapted  to  the  growing  of  eggplants.  In  the  North, 
where  the  climate  is  not  ideal  for  this  crop,  special  care  must  be 
exercised  in  the  selection  of  the  most  suitable  soils. 

1.  What  kind  of  soil  is  best  adapted  to  growing  eggplants? 

2.  What  are  the  climatic  requirements  ? 

3.  What  is  the  best  exposure  ? 

W-VG:  340.     L:251.     C:261. 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  Eggplants  may  be  almost  black  in 
color,  or  purple  or  white.  The  most  popular  market  varieties  are 
New  York   Improved,  Black   Beauty,  Black  Pekin,  and   Early 


80  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

Long  Purple.  The  last-named  variety  is  very  early  and  suitable 
for  cultivation  under  conditions  which  would  be  most  unfavorable 
for  the  later  larger-fruited  sorts. 

1.  How  do  eggplants  vary  in  size,  color,  shape,  and  earliness? 

W-VG:339.     L  :  252.     C  :  260-261. 

2.  What  varieties  do  you  think  it  will  be  best  for  you  to  grow  ? 

W-VG  :  339.     C  :  260-261.     Seed  catalogues. 

4.  Starting  plants. — Eggplants  are  started  and  handled  very 
much  in  the  same  manner  as  tomato  plants,  but  they  require  at 
least  10  degrees  higher  temperature  in  order  to  insure  rapid 
growth.  The  plants  cannot  be  cared  for  satisfactorily  in  cold  frames 
and  unless  a  greenhouse  is  available  it  is  necessary  to  have 
two  hotbeds,  one  for  the  germination  of  the  seed  and  care  of  the 
very  young  plants,  and  the  other,  made  about  four  weeks  later, 
to  accommodate  the  plants  after  they  have  been  removed  from  the 
seed  bed.  The  seed  is  ordinarily  sown  from  March  1  to  15  and  the 
plants  are  often  shifted  to  pots  before  they  are  taken  to  the  field. 

1.  What  equipment  is  needed  to  start  the  plants  ?     W :  43-58. 

2.  When  should  the  seed  be  sown  ? 

W-VG:  341.    L:251.     C:261. 

3.  What  temperature  is  required  ? 

W-VG:  341.     L:251.     C:261. 

5.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  The  greatest  care  should  be  taken  in 
preparing  the  soil  for  eggplants.  There  should  be  no  doubt  about 
the  soil  having  an  abundance  of  vegetable  matter  and  available 
plant  food. 

1.   How  should  the  soil  be  prepared  for  eggplants  ? 
W:79.     W-VG:  342.     C:261. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS 


81 


82 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


6.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  Eggplants  should  not  be  set  in  the 
open  ground  until  the  weather  is  quite  warm  and  there  is  no 
further  danger  of  frosts.  In  most  sections  of  the  North,  it  is  not 
desirable  to  plant  in  the  field  before  June  1.  They  should  be 
shifted  with  as  little  disturbance  of  the  roots  as  possible. 


Fig.  22.  —  The  two  wilted  eggplants  have  been  treated  with  too  much  commercial 
fertilizer.  The  safer  plan  is  to  fill  the  pots  with  soil  well  enriched  by  the  use 
of  decayed  manure  and  not  to  apply  any  chemical  fertilizer  as  top  dressing. 


1.   When  should  eggplants  be  set  in  the  garden? 
W-VG :  341-342.     L:251. 


2.   How  far  apart  should  they  be  planted  ? 


7.  Combating  insects.  —  Potato  beetles  and  flea  beetles  are 
the  most  destructive  enemies  of  the  eggplant  and  they  may  be 
controlled  by  the  methods  generally  employed  for  these  pests. 

1.   What  insects  and  diseases  attack  the  eggplant  and  how  may 
they  be  controlled  ?     W  :  217.     L :  253. 


SOLANACEOUS   CROP  PROJECTS  83 

8.  Marketing.  —  The  fruits  should  be  packed  in  clean,  attrac- 
tive crates  or  baskets.  Sometimes  they  are  wrapped  in  tissue 
paper. 

1.  How  should  eggplants  be  marketed? 

2.  What  are  the  chances  for  profit  ? 

Project  III.  Growing  Peppers 

Peppers  belong  to  the  potato  family.  In  cultivation  the  com- 
mon pepper  behaves  as  an  annual,  but  in  warm  climates  it  is  often 
biennial.  The  species  is  not  known  in  the  wild  state,  but  it  is 
generally  believed  to  be  a  native  of  tropical  America. 

Peppers  form  erect  plants  that  may  become  woody  at  the  base. 
The  leaves  are  comparatively  small  and  entire.  The  fruit  is  a 
berry,  red,  yellow,  or  green  in  color,  and  varying  in  shape  from 
globular  to  heart-shaped  and  cylindrical.  The  seeds  are  numerous. 
The  principle  imparting  the  pungent  taste  is  known  as  capsaicin, 
which  is  located  in  the  smaller  varieties  in  the  fleshy  part  of  the  fruit 
and  in  the  larger  ones  chiefly  about  the  seeds.  Cayenne  pepper 
is  made  by  grinding  up  the  whole  fruit.  In  the  squash  varieties, 
which  are  used  as  ''mangoes,"  the  fleshy  part  of  the  fruit  is  of  a 
mild  flavor.  Peppers  are  used  as  condiments  and  food,  and  some 
varieties  are  used  for  ornamental  purposes.  The  numerous  com- 
mercial varieties  may  be  placed  in  seven  botanical  varieties  or 
types,  distinguished  especially  by  the  size,  shape,  and  other  char- 
acteristics of  the  fruit. 

1.  What  is  meant  by  the  terms  annual  and  biennial  as  applied  to 

plants  ? 

2.  How  do  pepper  fruits  vary  ? 

3.  Where  is  the  peppery  taste  located  ? 


84  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

Project  Outline 

1.  Importance  of  crop. 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Starting  plants. 

5.  Preparing  soil. 

6.  Planting  in  the  garden. 

7.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

1.  Importance  of  the  crop.  —  The  pepper  is  becoming  of  in- 
creasing importance  in  all  sections  of  the  country.  There  is  a 
large  demand  for  the  sweet-fruited  type,  commonly  called  mangoes, 
which  sells  at  prices  that  entitle  the  crop  to  serious  consideration 
from  a  commercial  viewpoint.  While  it  thrives  best  in  the  South 
and  in  the  light  soils  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  region,  it  may  be  grown 
successfully  throughout  the  North. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  this  crop  for  commercial  purposes? 

How  do  you  know  ?     W-VG  :  414.     C  :  341. 

2.  Where  would  you  sell  it? 

3.  How  does  it  differ  botanically  from  the  tomato  and  eggplant  f 

4.  What  is  the  history  of  the  pepper? 

5.  Make  a  careful  study  of  the  fruit. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  The  deep,  fertile,  light,  sandy  loams 
are  best  adapted  to  the  growing  of  peppers.  However,  they  may 
be  grown  successfully  in  all  well -drained  soils  that  are  properly 
provided  with  organic  matter  and  plant  food. 

1.    Have  you  a  suitable  location  for  peppers?     If  so,  what  are  its 
advantages?     W-VG  :  414. 


SOLANACEOUS   CROP  PROJECTS 


85 


3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  Peppers  are  divided  into  two  classes, 
namely,  those  which  bear  small,  pungent,  hot  fruits  and  those 
which  produce  large,  mild  fruits.  Long  Red  Cayenne  and  True 
Red  Chili  are  probably  the  best  known  of  the  former  type  and 


Fig.  23.  — Peppers  are  erect  in  habit  of  growth  and  may  be  planted  fairly  close 

together. 

Ruby  King,  Chinese  Giant,  and  Neapolitan  are  favorites  in  the 
sweet  class. 

1.  What  varieties  would  you  select?     Why? 

W-VG  :  415.     Seed  catalogues. 

2.  How  do  peppers  vary  in  size,  shape,  color,  and  pungency  f 

4.   Starting  plants.  —  The  plants  are  started  in  the  same  manner 
as  tomatoes,  but  they  do  not  grow  so  rapidly  and  for  this  reason 


86  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

it  is  desirable  to  sow  somewhat  earlier  than  tomatoes.     The  seed 
is  slow  to  germinate. 

1.  How  should  the  plants  be  started  ?     W  :  44-63. 

2.  Will  it  pay  to  grow  them  in  pots?     Why?     Or,  why  not? 

W:58. 

5.  Preparing  soil.  —  The  soil  should  be  prepared  with  the  same 
care  and  thoroughness  as  for  a  heavy  crop  of  tomatoes. 

1.   How  should  the  soil  be  prepared  and  fertilized  for  this  crop? 
W :  63. 

6.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  The  plants  should  not  be  set  in 
the  garden  until  there  is  no  further  danger  of  frost.  They  should 
be  spaced  15  to  18  inches  apart  in  the  row  and  there  should  be 
not  less  than  30  inches  between  rows  if  a  horse  cultivator  is  to  be 
used. 

1.  When  should  peppers  be  planted  in  the  garden  ? 

W:66.     W-VG:416. 

2.  What  are  the  proper  planting  distances?    W-VG  :  416. 

7.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Peppers  do  not  require  the 
prompt  harvesting  necessary  with  tomatoes.  Sometimes  the 
market  wants  them  in  a  green  state.  At  other  times  the  ripe, 
well-colored  fruits  are  preferred,  especially  in  the  smaller  markets. 
It  is  fortunate  that  the  fruits  do  not  deteriorate  rapidly  after  they 
have  attained  full  size. 

The  well-ripened  specimens  are  so  handsome  that  they  offer 
special  inducements  for  fancy  methods  of  marketing.  Small, 
white  baskets,  lined  with  colored  tissue  paper,  may  be  used  to 
advantage  and,  if  desired,  each  specimen  may  be  wrapped  in  very 
thin  transparent  paper. 


SOLANACEOUS  CROP  PROJECTS  87 

1.  When  should  peppers  be  picked?     W-VG:416. 

2.  What  packages  are  desirable  for  marketing  peppers? 

3.  Explain  the  packing  of  peppers  for  market. 

4.  What  is  a  good  yield  of  peppers  to  the  acre  f 

5.  How  are  peppers  utilized  and  served  on  the  tablet 


CHAPTER  THREE 
COLE   CROP   PROJECTS 

Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Brussels  Sprouts,  CoUard,  Broccoli 

The  cole  crops,  named  above,  are  classed  as  hardy  vegetables 
because  they  are  not  injured  by  frost.  Well-hardened  plants 
stand  considerable  freezing.  They  grow  best  in  a  cool,  humid 
climate  and  in  moist,  fertile  soils. 

Cabbage  and  cauliflower  are  treated  in  separate  projects. 
Brussels  sprouts  may  be  of  sufficient  importance  in  some  localities 
to  justify  their  selection  for  a  home  project.  In  this  event.  Project 
IV,  Growing  Cabbage,  will  be  found  helpful  and  might  be  followed 
in  most  of  the  details  of  culture.  More  specific  information  re- 
lating to  the  culture  of  this  crop  will  be  found  in  W-VG  :  253-254, 
L:130,C:  159-161,  A:  86-89. 

The  collard  and  broccoli  are  of  little  importance.  They  are 
discussed  briefly  in  W-VG,  L,  C,  and  A. 

Project  IV.     Growing  Cabbage 

The  cabbages  belong  to  the  mustard  family,  a  large  group  with 
about  2000  species.  In  this  family  belong  also  other  crop  plants, 
such  as  cauliflower,  broccoli,  brussels  sprouts,  collard,  turnip, 
radish,  white  mustard,  etc.  The  members  of  the  mustard  family 
are  widely  distributed  over  the  world  in  both  southern  and  north- 
ern countries  and  both  low  and  high  altitudes.  The  wild  form, 
which  is  supposed  to  have  given  rise  to  the  cultivated  varieties 
of  cabbage,  is  a  native  of  Europe.  By  modifications  of  the  leaves 
and  buds,  ordinary  cabbage  and  brussels  sprouts  have  been  de- 

88 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  89 

veloped ;  by  modifications  of  the  flower  clusters  cauliflower  and 
broccoli  have  been  produced.  All  of  these  plants  are  regarded  as 
different  varieties  of  a  single  species. 

Common  head  cabbage  is  in  reality  a  huge  terminal  bud  in 
which  large  thick  leaves  overlap  to  form  the  bud.  The  central 
stem  is  short.  This  is  the  only  growth  produced  the  first  year. 
The  root  is  a  typical  tap  root,  solid  and  more  or  less  woody.  Elon- 
gated clusters  of  yellow  flowers  are  produced  the  second  season. 
The  seeds  are  produced  in  elongated  pods. 

There  are  several  types  of  common  cabbage,  based  upon  color, 
size,  shape  of  head,  character  of  leaves,  and  time  of  maturing. 

1.  To  what  family  does  the  cabbage  belong  and  what  are  some 

of  its  near  relatives  ? 

2.  What  sort  of  structure  is  a  cabbage  head  ? 

3.  What  kind  of  root  system  does  cabbage  have  ? 

4.  When  are  the  seeds  produced? 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Why  grow  cabbage  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Constructing  the  hotbed. 

6.  Constructing  the  cold  frame. 

7.  Making  plant  boxes. 

8.  Making  straw  mats. 

9.  Sowing  for  the  early  crop. 

10.  Caring  for  the  seedlings. 

11.  Transplanting. 


90  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

12.  Hardening  the  plants. 

13.'  Growing  late  plants. 

14.  Preparing  the  garden  soil. 

15.  Planting  in  the  garden. 

16.  Companion  cropping. 

17.  Cultivating. 

18.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

19.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

20.  Storing  the  late  crop. 

1.  Why  grow  cabbage  ?  —  Cabbage  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant of  the  vegetable  crops.  It  is  seldom  omitted  in  the  home 
garden  and  enormous  quantities  are  grown  for  commercial  pur- 
poses. There  are  well-known  cabbage-growing  districts  in  various 
parts  of  the  North,  and  millions  of  crates  of  early  cabbage  are 
shipped  to  the  North  annually  from  the  southern  states.  It  is 
also  one  of  the  leading  crops  of  market  gardeners  and  truckers 
who  are  operating  near  all  of  our  larger  centers  of  population. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  cabbage  ?    Early  or  late? 

2.  Are  markets  available  where  you  can  sell  your  crop? 

3.  What  is  the  commercial  importance  of  cabbage?     C  :  161. 

4.  In  what  parts  of  the  country  is  early  cabbage  most  largely  grown? 

Late  cabbage? 

5.  What  is  hiown  about  the  history  of  cabbage? 

6.  What  are  its  chief  botanical  characteristics? 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  Cabbage  has  been  grown  successfully 
on  the  greatest  diversity  of  soil  types.  The  sandy  loams  are  un- 
questionably the  best  adapted  to  growing  an  early  crop,  while  the 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS 


91 


moist,  fertile,  heavy  loams  are  preferred  for  the  late  crop.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  about  the  necessity  of  an  abundant  supply  of  soil 
moisture  and  available  plant  food.  Southern  or  southeastern 
slopes  possess  special  advantages  for  the  production  of  a  very  early 
crop. 

1.  What  kind  of  soil  is  best  for  early  cabbage  ?     For  late  cabbage  ? 

W-VG:265.     0:164.     A :  III-IV.     R:28. 

2.  Do  you  have  a  suitable  location  for  growing  either  early  or  late 

cabbage?     Describe  its  soil  and  exposure. 

3.  What  is  the  character  of  the  soils  in  the  most  important  cabbage- 

growing  districts  of  the  country? 

4.  What  is  the  character  of  the  soil  in  your  neighborhood  where 

cabbage  is  grown? 


3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  There  are  numerous  groups  and 
varieties  of  cabbage.  The  student  should  refer  for  more  detailed 
information  on  this 
subject  to  W-VG : 
255-262.  Of  the  early 
sorts  Jersey  Wakefield 
is  the  best  known  and 
the  well-bred  strains  of 
this  variety  possess  spe- 
cial merit  for  the  grow- 
ing of  an  extremely 
early  product.  In  re- 
cent years,  Copenhagen 
Market  is  finding  favor 
especially  among  com- 
mercial growers  because  it  is  larger  than  Jersey  Wakefield  and 
will  stand  longer  in  the  field  without  bursting.     It  is  the  leading 


Fig.  24. 


A   typical   head    of 
cabbage. 


Jersey   Wakefield 


92  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

early  round-headed  variety.  Succession,  a  remarkably  good, 
well-bred  mid-season  variety,  is  often  sown  rather  late  for  the 
fall  crop.  Enkhuizen  Glory  is  also  a  very  good  round-headed 
sort  that  does  well  for  the  second  and  also  for  the  late  crop. 
Danish  Ballhead  is  by  far  the  most  important  variety  for  storage 
and  for  winter  market. 

1.  What  variety  would  you  select  for  the  early  and  late  crop  and 

for  storage  ? 

2.  What  are  the  merits  of  the  varieties  which  you  have  decided  to 

plant  ? 

3.  How  may  varieties  of  cabbage  be  classified? 

WVG:255.     L:119.     C :  183. 

4.  Name  and  describe  the  leading  varieties,  early  and  late,  of  the 

various  classes. 

W-VG  :  255-260.     L :  1 1 9.     C  :  183.     A  :  22-23. 

5.  What  varieties  are  grown  in  your  neighborhood? 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  Cabbage  seed  should  be  purchased  with 
the  utmost  care,  in  order  that  the  least  possible  risk  may  be  taken 
of  getting  a  poor  strain.  You  should  also  buy  the  seed  early  and 
make  a  germination  test  before  it  is  time  to  start  the  crop. 
Growers  should  make  thorough  inquiry  about  the  best  sources  of 
seed  of  the  varieties  wanted. 

1.  What  precautions  should  be  taken  in  the  purchase  of  seed  ? 

2.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  ?     W-VG  :  495. 

3.  Where  can  good  seed  of  the  varieties  desired  be  bought? 

Consult  local  growers,  seed  catalogues,  and  the  reports  of 
vegetable  growers'  associations. 


COLE  CR01»  PUOJECTS 


93 


94  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

4.  Do  you  advise  the  home  growing  of  seed?     If  so,  how  is  it  donef 

5.  Where  is  most  of  our  cabbage  seed  grown  f 

6.  How  many  years  will  cabbage  seed  retain  its  vitality? 

7.  Is  it  desirable  to  buy  cabbage  seed  a  year  in  advance,  and  test 

it  by  growing  a  small  plot  before  making  an  extensive  planta- 
tion? 

5.  Constructing  the  iiotbed.  —  Unless  the  seed  is  sown  in  a 
greenhouse  or  the  kitchen  window,  a  hotbed  will  be  needed  to 
start  the  early  plants.  Instructions  for  the  making  of  hotbeds 
are  given  in  W  :  44-45. 

See  W :  44-46  references  and  questions. 

6.  Constructing  the  cold  frame.  —  Cold  frames  are  practically 
indispensable  in  the  growing  of  good  early  cabbage  plants.  In- 
structions for  making  them  are  given  in  W :  46-47. 

See  W :  46-48  references  and  questions. 

7.  Making  plant  boxes.  —  Thousands  of  growers  start  their 
early  cabbage  plants  in  flats  or  plant  boxes.  They  have  many  ad- 
vantages.    Explanations  for  making  them  are  given  in  W  :  48-49. 

See  W  :  48-50  references  and  questions. 

8.  Making  straw  mats.  —  Plants  even  as  hardy  as  the  cabbage 
may  be  killed  by  freezing  in  either  hotbeds  or  cold  frames.  The 
sashes  must  be  covered  at  night  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  plants. 
Straw  mats  have  been  found  highly  satisfactory  for  this  purpose. 
Directions  for  making  them  are  given  in  W :  50. 

See  W :  50-51  references  and  questions. 

9.  Sowing  for  the  early  crop.  —  In  most  northern  sections,  seed 
for  the    early   crop    should   be   sown   about    February  1.     The 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS 


95 


seedlings  should  be  ready  to  be  transplanted  in  three  or  four  weeks. 
This  will  allow  six  weeks  more  before  they  will  be  wanted  for  field 
planting.  In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  North,  as  in  New  Jersey,  the 
plants  may  be  set  with  safety  in  the  open  ground  about  April  1. 


■ .!  pJM 

HBKilkt.C..    -J '^^isfeK. 'lisra^'I^S^Mlflliwto 

.M    ^^^^1 

huhII 

^^HB^^MmBSo^^                                                ^^''z'  ^^- 

^ 

\t^,i    irm^'- 

Fig.  26. — Flat  of  seedlings;    onions,  lettuce,  and  cabbage  plants. 

In  this  case  the  seed  should  be  sown  January  15.     There  should 
be  about  ten  weeks  from  seed  sowing  to  field  planting. 

The  cabbage  requires  a  lower  temperature  for  starting  the  plants 
than  the  tomato.  A  day  temperature  of  60  degrees  and  50  or 
even  45  at  night  will  be  found  suitable  for  growing  good  plants. 
Further  instructions  in  W  :  51  and  references  will  be  found  applica- 
ble to  sowing  seed  for  the  early  crop. 


1.    See  W :  51  references  and  questions. 


96  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

2.  When  should  seed  be  sown  for  the  early  crop? 

W-VG  :  265-266.     L  :  118. 

3.  At  what  temperature  should  the  seed  be  germinated  ? 

W-VG :  265-266. 

4.  How  many  flats  must  be  sown  to  start  enough  plants  for  your 

project  ? 


Fig.  27.  —  A  flat  of  strong,  stocky  cabbage  plants. 


10.  Caring  for  the  seedlings.  —  It  is  exceedingly  important  to 
avoid  overwatering  and  excessively  high  temperatures  in  the 
growing  of  early  plants.  Such  conditions  are  certain  to  cause 
weak,  spindling  plants  which  are  always  in  danger  of  being  lost 
by  damping-off  —  a  fungus  trouble  causing  the  stems  to  decay  near 
the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  student  should  consult  W :  44 
for  further  information  on  starting  plants  in  the  hotbed. 

1.   See  W  :  58  for  references. 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  97 

2.   What  conditions  should  be  avoided  in  caring  for  young  plants  ? 
W-VG  :  155.     C  :  12. 


11.  Transplanting.  —  Early  plants  should  be  transplanted  in 
plant  boxes  and  shifted  into  the  cold  frame  about  March  1 .  It  is 
desirable,  if  possible,  to  keep  the  transplanted  seedlings  in  green- 
house or  hotbed  temperatures  for  several  days  after  transplanting 
to  enable  them  to  become  rooted  before  shifting  to  the  cold  frame. 
Seedlings  may  be  transplanted  directly  into  tlie  cold  frame  in 
the  absence  of  flats.  Warm  days  must  be  chosen  for  this  work.  Ex- 
cellent plants  may  be  grown  if  they  are  set  one  and  one  half  inches 
apart  each  way,  though  spacing  at  two  inches  will  secure  stronger 
ones.  The  instructions  given  for  transplanting  tomatoes  (W  :  59) 
from  the  hotbed  apply  equally  well  to  cabbage,  except  that  cab- 
bage is  rarely  transplanted  more  than  once  before  the  plants  are 
taken  to  the  field,  and  pots  are  seldom  used  in  starting  the  plants. 

1.  See  W  :  59  and  references. 

2.  When  should  the  early  plants  be  transplanted  to  the  cold  frame  ? 

W-VG :  265. 

3.  How  far  apart  should  the  plants  be  set  in  fiats  or  in  the  cold 

frame  ? 

W-VG :  265. 

4.  How  often  should  the  seedlings  be  transplanted  ? 

5.  How  much  cold  frame  space  or  how  many  fiats  will  be  needed 

for  your  plants  ? 

6.  How  would  you  get  rid  of  rats  and  mice  should  they  be  found 

in  the  frames  ? 


98  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

12.  Hardening  the  plants.  —  Too  much  emphasis  cannot  be 
placed  on  the  importance  of  thoroughly  hardening  the  plants. 
When  well  hardened  they  generally  have  a  bluish-red  tint,  and 
they  may  then  be  transferred  to  the  field.  If-  strong,  vigorous, 
and  well  hardened,  they  will  stand  a  temperature  of  10  to  15  degrees 
below  freezing,  but  otherwise  they  may  succumb  to  light  freezing. 
The  neglect  of  this  simple  operation  may  cause  the  total  loss  of  the 
plants.  Hardening  is  accomplished  during  the  last  ten  days  to 
two  weeks  before  the  plants  are  set  in  the  open  ground,  by  watering 
sparingly  or  scarcely  at  all,  just  enough  to  keep  the  plants  from 
wilting,  by  gradually  subjecting  them  to  low  temperature,  and 
finally,  by  giving  them  no  protection  day  or  night  in  the  cold 
frame. 

1.  See  W  :  63  and  references  and  questions. 

2.  What  is  the  importance  of  hardening  early  cabbage  plants? 

W-VG:159. 

3.  Explain  how  you  would  proceed  to  harden  the  plants. 

4.  How  long  does  it  take  ? 

13.  Growing  late  plants.  —  Late  plants  are  nearly  always  started 
from  sowings  made  in  the  open  ground.  The  time  of  sowing 
depends  upon  the  climate  and  the  varieties  to  be  grown.  In  most 
northern  localities  the  seed  is  sown  during  the  month  of  May. 
Very  late  varieties,  like  the  Danish  Ballhead,  should  be  given  the 
advantage  of  early  sowing,  while  the  mid-season  ones,  such  as 
Succession,  need  not  be  sown  until  several  weeks  later.  The  tend- 
ency, however,  is  to  err  in  sowing  too  late.  The  chances  for  a 
good  crop  are  better  from  fairly  early  sowing  and  timely  trans- 
planting into  the  field. 

A  fine,  moist  seed  bed  should  be  prepared  where  neither  cab- 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  99 

bage  nor  any  other  cruciferous  crop  has  been  grown  for  at  least 
four  or  five  years.  This  is  important  from  the  standpoint  of 
avoiding  clubroot  and  other  diseases  of  this  group  of  plants. 
The  drills  should  be  made  a  foot  apart,  to  permit  of  wheel -hoe 
tillage,  eight  to  ten  seeds  dropped  to  the  inch  of  furrow  and  cov- 
ered with  about  one  half  inch  of  soil.  Firming  the  soil  after  the 
seed  has  been  sown  will  insure  more  prompt  germination. 

1.  When  should  seed  be  sown  for  the  late  crop  in  your  locality? 

W-VG  :  267.     L :  124.     R  :  20. 

2.  When  and  how  should  the  seed  bed  be  prepared? 

W-VG  :  267.     L :  124.     R  :  20. 

3.  How  should  the  seed  be  sown? 

W-VG  :  267.     L :  124.     R :  20. 

4.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  ?     How  large  a  seed  bed  will  be 

required  ? 

14.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  The  cabbage  requires  high  fertility.  In 
thin  soils  the  heads  either  fail  to  mature  or  are  small  and  soft. 
The  plants  thrive  in  moist  soils  abounding  in  available  plant  food 
and  organic  matter.  Heavy  clover  sods  provide  ideal  soil  con- 
ditions for  cabbage.  If  clover  or  grass  sods  are  not  available, 
then  stable  manure  should  be  used  more  liberally.  Any  kind  of 
manure,  old  or  fresh,  may  be  used  to  advantage  for  cabbage.  The 
amount  that  should  be  applied  will  depend  on  whether  a  sod  is  to 
be  used  and  also  on  the  fertilizer  application.  If  half  a  ton  or  more 
of  a  high-grade  fertilizer  is  used  with  a  heavy  clover  sod,  stable 
manure  might  be  entirely  omitted.  Most  excellent  crops  of  cab- 
bage are  grown  on  good  soils  without  any  stable  manure.  With  sod 
on  moderately  fertile  land,  ten  tons  of  stable  manure,  and  at  least 
half  a  ton  of  commercial  fertilizer  to  the  acre,  should  give  good 


100  VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 

results.  Growers  often  use  a  ton  of  commercial  fertilizer  to  the 
acre.  It  should  contain  a  liberal  proportion  of  phosphoric  acid, 
also  nitrogen,  if  this  element  can  be  bought  at  a  reasonable  price. 
Potash  should  probably  be  used  on  most  soils,  but  its  application 
does  not  seem  to  be  so  important  as  the  other  materials  mentioned. 

The  most  dreaded  and  destructive  disease  of  cabbage  is  club- 
root,  caused  by  a  slime  mold.  Regular  and  heavy  liming  seems 
to  be  the  most  effective  preventive  measure  that  can  be  taken 
against  losses  from  this  enemy.  At  least  two  tons  of  caustic  lime  to 
the  acre  should  be  employed,  and  the  crop  should  not  be  grown 
on  the  same  land  at  closer  intervals  than  four  or  five  years. 
Apply  three  or  four  tons  in  case  of  clubroot. 

It  is  nearly  always  an  advantage  to  plow  the  land  in  the  fall  for 
the  early  crop  and  in  early  spring  for  the  late  crop. 

1.  See  W  :  63  and  references. 

2.  What  are  the  plant  food  requirements  of  cabbage  ? 

3.  What  crops  might  precede  cabbage  ?     W-VG  :  268. 

4.  Should  stable  manure  be  applied  ?     If  so,  what  kind,  how  much, 

and  when?     W-VG  :  269.     C  :  165. 

5.  Should  commercial  fertilizers   be    applied?     If  so,  what  kind 

and  how  much  ?     W-VG  :  269.     C  :  165.     R  :  36-40. 

6.  Determine  the  best  treatment  for  the  fiat  that  you  will  use  for 

cabbage. 

7.  What  are  the  values  of  lime  for  growing  cabbage  ?     The  general 

functions  of  lime  in  the  soil  ? 

8.  When  should  you  plow  for  early  cabbage  ?     For  late  cabbage  ? 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS 


101 


9.    Estimate  the  requirements  of  lime,  fertilizer,  and  manure  for 
your  cabbage  project. 

10.  What  arc  the  various  sources  of  lime,  phosphorus,  7iitrogen,  and 

potassium  f 

11.  What  are  the  best  directions  for  mixing  a  suitable  fertilizer  for 

cabbage  f 


Fig.  28.  —  Trarisplaiitiug  cabbage  plants  in  the  field  by  the  use  of  a  dibber. 


15.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  In  most  sections  of  the  North, 
strong,  well-hardened  early  plants  may  be  set  in  the  garden  or  field 
as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared.  As  a  rule,  we  can  begin 
transplanting  out  of  doors  about  April  15,  and  earlier  in  some 
sections.  Late  cabbage  is  ordinarily  transplanted  between  June 
15  and  July  10.  Experience  has  taught  commercial  growers 
that  comparatively  early  planting,  say  from  the  fifteenth  to  twen- 


102  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

tieth  of  June,  for  late  varieties  is  more  likely  to  result  in  a  good 
yield  than  later  transplanting. 

When  tillage  with  a  horse  is  contemplated,  28  inches  between 
rows,  even  for  the  earliest  varieties,  is  as  close  as  you  should  plant, 
and  most  growers  allow  two  to  eight  inches  more  space.  Liberal 
spacing  is  favorable  to  growing  of  large  heads. 

The  spacing  between  plants  in  the  rows  will  depend  mainly 
on  the  variety  used.  The  small,  early  varieties  with  pointed  heads, 
such  as  Jersey  Wakefield,  may  be  set  as  close  as  14  inches  apart; 
mid-season  flat  varieties,  as  Succession,  18  inches ;  while  the  larger, 
later  varieties  should  have  20  to  24  inches  between  plants  in  the 
rows. 

Cabbage  plants  are  often  set  in  the  field  with  transplanting 
machines,  but  hand  planting,  as  explained  in  W  :  59  for  tomatoes, 
is  the  usual  plan. 

1.  See  W :  59  and  references  and  questions. 

2.  When  should  early  cabbage  plants  be  set  in  the  open  ground  ? 

W-VG:272.     L :  118. 

3.  When  should  late  cabbage  plants  be  set  in  the  field  ? 

W-VG  :  272.     R  :  46. 

4.  What  are  the  proper  planting  distances  for  the  most  important 

early  and  late  varieties  ? 

5.  What  are  the  best  rules  for  marking  the  ground  and  setting  the 

plants  ? 


16.  Companion  cropping.  —  Early  cabbage  is  unusually  well 
adapted  to  companion  cropping.  Numerous  combinations  in- 
cluding the  cabbage  are  in  common  use.  Cabbage,  lettuce,  and 
radishes  are  often  startefl  together  at  the  same  time.     A  row  of 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  103 

lettuce  may  he  set  between  two  rows  of  cabbage  and,  if  the  spacing 
is  anii)le,  radishes  may  be  sown  between  rows  and  even  between 
plants  in  the  rows.  The  radishes  mature  and  are  harvested  first, 
then  the  lettuce  grown  from  transplanted  plants,  and  finally  all 
of  the  ground  is  devoted  to  the  cabbage  crop.  It  is  unhkely  that 
these  crops  seriously  interfere  with  each  other,  though  they  make 
tillage  more  tedious,  but  they  greatly  increase  the  producing 
power  of  the  area  under  cultivation.  The  cabbage  may  be  har- 
vested in  time  to  follow  with  a  crop  of  beans  or  perhaps  a  green 
manurial  crop,  such  as  vetch  or  crimson  clover,  that  may  be  plo\ved, 
down  the  following  spring  for  tomatoes  and  other  vegetables. 

1.    Describe  several  systems  of  combination  cropping  which  include 
cabbage.     W-VG  :  477-478,  480,  486,  488. 

17.  Cultivating.  —  Both  the  early  and  the  late  crop  should  have 
frequent  and  thorough  tillage.  When  the  plants  are  well  grown, 
fewer  leaves  will  be  broken  oflF  if  the  cultivating  is  done  in  the 
middle  of  the  day  when  the  leaves  are  limp  or  less  rigid  than  in  the 
morning  or  evening. 

1.  See  W  :  99  and  references. 

2.  What  recommendations  do  you  make  for  the  cultivation  of 

cabbage  ?     W-VG  :  273. 

18.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  Among  the  cruciferous 
plants,  cabbage  and  cauliflower  are  probably  more  seriously  in- 
jured than  other  cole  crops  by  species  of  insects  common  to  the 
entire  group.  Attacks  by  the  insects  are  usually  coincident  with 
the  appearance  of  the  first  leaves  in  the  seed  bed  and  continue 
throughout  the  growing  season. 

The  wilting  of  early  cabbage  plants  in  the  field  or  late  plants 
in  seed   beds  is  a  good  indication  of  an  attack  by  root  maggot. 


104 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


Such  plants  when  pulled  have  only  a   tap   root  devoid   of  the 
usual  fibrous  growth.     The  injury  may  be  accompanied  with  more 

or  less  decay  of  the 
tissues  where  older 
maggots  have  tun- 
neled the  root. 

The  parent  is  a 
two-winged  fly  which 
deposits  eggs  on  the 
ground  close  to  the 
stem  along  which 
the  newly  hatched 
maggots  work  their 
way  to  the  more 
tender  roots.  Two 
to  four  generations 
may  occur  annually, 
and,  in  the  fall,  eggs, 
larvae,  and  adults 
may  be  found  in  the  old  cabbage  stumps. 

Gontrol :  Tar  paper  disks  placed  around  plants  at  setting  have 
proved  valuable  protectors.  (CL :  33.)  Crude  carbolic  acid  emul- 
sion is  said  to  reduce  maggot  injury  where  early  plants  have  not 
been  protected.  (CL  :  33.)  Protection  for  late  cabbage  can  be 
provided  by  screening  the  seed  bed  with  cheesecloth.  (CL :  35.) 
Imported  cabbage  worm :  The  familiar  white  butterfly  with 
fore  wings  grayish  tipped  is  the  parent  of  our  common  green  cab- 
bage worm.  The  caterpillar,  a  velvety  green  ''  worm,"  is  dis- 
tinguished from  closely  related  forms  by  a  faint  yellow  line  along 
the  middle  of  its  back. 

The  caterpillar  eats  large  irregular  holes  in  the  leaves,  often 
leaving  nothing  but  the  larger  veins. 

The  adult  deposits  yellow,  delicately  ridged  eggs  on  the  under 


Fig.  29.  —  Wilting  due  to  cabbage  maggot. 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS 


105 


surface  of  the  leaf,  and  from  these  hatch  small,  green  caterpillars 
that  immediately  begin  skeletonizing  the  leaf.     In  ten  to  fourteen 


Fig.  30.  —  Cabbage  worm. 

days  they  become  full  grown  and  fasten  themselves  to  the  under 
side  of  the  leaf  or  other  protected  surface  and  change  to  a  pupa 
from  which  in  about  a  week  the  butterfly  emerges.  Several  broods 
develop  in  a  season. 

This  pest  is  controlled  by  hand  picking  or  dusting  when  only  a 
few  plants  are  grown.  Poison  sprays  applied  as  soon  as  young 
caterpillars  appear  are  the  best  for  large  plantings. 

1.  What  indicates  maggot  injury  to  cabbage  f     CL :  29-36. 

2.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  maggot?     CL :  29-30. 

3.  Is  clean  farming  a  desirable  practice?     If  so,  why?     CL:32. 

4.  State  briefly  three  methods  of  preventing  injury  by  the  maggot, 

indicating  when  each  is  most  desirable.     CL  :  33-36. 


106 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


5.  Name  some  other  maggots  that  affect  cabbage. 
CL :  36.     CL  :  37-38. 

6.  How  does  the  imported  cabbage  worm  adult  differ  from  the  other 
common  cabbage  butterflies  f     CL  :  6-8. 

7.  Can  the  caterpillar  be  easily  distinguished  f     CL  :  5-8. 

8.  Describe  briefly  the  life  history  of  the  imj^rted  cabbage  worm. 
CL:4-5. 

9.  Does  it  injure  the  outer  leaves  only  ?     CL :  5. 

10.  What  is  the  best  spray  to  use?     CL :  6. 

11.  What  other  com7non  cabbage  worms  affect  this  crop?     CL :  7-21. 

Black  rot  causes  enormous   losses  to  cruciferous   crops  both 

in  the  field  and  in  storage. 
This  is  a  bacterial  disease  and 
is  first  noticeable  in  the  field 
by  a  blackening  of  the  veins 
near  the  edges  of  the  leaves. 
Such  leaves  soon  become  yellow 
and  die.  If  infected  plants 
are  stored,  the  disease  con- 
tinues to  develop  in  storage. 
The  black  rot  bacteria  live 
in  the  soil  and  may  be 
spread  upon  the  seed  or  on 
plants  shipped  from  one  place 
to  another.  They  may  also 
be  spread  from  field  to  field 
on  tools  and  in  manure.  Con- 
trol measures  involve  first  of 
all  crop  rotation.  Cabbage  should  not  be  planted  for  several 
successive  years  on   soil  which  has  produced  cabbage  with  black 


Fig.  31.  —  Aphis-infested  cabbage  leaf. 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS 


107 


rot.     Cabbage  seed  should  be  soaked  from  ten  to  twenty  min- 
utes in  formaldehyde  (one  teaspoonful  to  a  pint  of  water). 

Club  root  attacks  the  roots  and  stems,  causing  them  to  become 
swollen   and  enlarged.     Often    infected    plants  remain    stunted 

and  do  not  produce 

heads.  The  organ- 
ism causing  club 
root  lives  in  the  soil 
and  is  spread  by 
wind,  in  manure,  on 
seedling  plants, 
weeds,  and  tillage 
tools.  Club  root  may 
be  controlled  by  lim- 
ing the  soil.  Slaked 
lime  should  be  ap- 
plied in  the  fall  at  the 
rate  of  about  seventy- 
five  bushels  per  acre  and  should  be  well  worked  into  the  soil. 
Crop  rotation  should  be  practiced,  allowing  cabbage  to  be  grown 
on  the  same  soil  only  once  in  about  five  years.  Varieties  Hol- 
lander, Stone,  Mason,  and  Henderson's  Early  Summer  are  some- 
what resistant. 

Yellows  or  wilt  is  a  disease  characterized  by  yellowing  and 
dropping  of  the  leaves.  Plants  often  die.  Control  is  similar  to 
that  described  for  black  rot.  The  variety  Wisconsin  Hollander 
is  resistant. 

Other  diseases  of  cabbage  of  less  importance  are  black  leg, 
downy  mildew,  and  soft  rot. 

1.   What  are  the  symptoms  of  black  rot  of  cabbage? 
SH:  165-166. 


Fig.  32. 


Club  root  is  the  most  serious  disease  of 
cabbage  and  related  crops. 


108 


VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 


2.  What  is  the  cause  of  the  disease  and  how  does  it  spread  ? 

SH:  166-167. 

3.  What  control  measures  are  recommended  for  black  rot  ? 

SH:  167-168. 

4.  How  does  club  root  afifect  cabbage  plants  ? 

SH:  168-169. 

5.  How  may  club  root  be  kept  under  control  ? 


19.   Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Cabbages  should  seldom  be 

harvested  until  the  heads  are  soHd  and  mature.     The  crop  is 

usually  cut  with  a 
strong,  sharp  butcher 
knife.  If  to  be  buried 
or  stored  with  most 
of  outside  leaves  re- 
maining, a  sharp 
hatchet  will  be  found 
convenient,  when  a 
stub  of  the  stem  four 
or  five  inches  long 
should  be  left,  which 
will  serve  as  a  very 
useful  handle. 
Most  markets  demand   fairly   close  trimming.     The   crop  is 

usually  packed  in  baskets  or  crates  for  shipment   and  sold  by 

count  or  by  weight  on  local  markets. 

Yields  vary  from  ten  to  twenty  or  more  tons  to  the  acre,  and 

there  is  the  widest  range  in  prices. 

'  1.   When  should  early  and  late  cabbage  be  harvested  ? 
W-VG  :  273.     C  :  166.     R :  87. 


Fig.  33.  —  Brussels  sprouts;  the  lower  leaves  have 
been  removed  to  induce  the  formation  of  large 
buds  commonly  called  "sprouts." 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  109 

2.  How  much  freezing  will  mature  cabbage  stand? 

3.  What  is  the  most  convenient  method  of  harvesting  ? 

W-VG  :  274.     C  :  166.     R :  88-92. 

4.  How  should  cabbage  be  trimmed  for  market  ? 

5.  How  would  you  pack  it  for  market  ? 

W-VG  :  274,  162-187.    C  :  166. 

6.  Will  it  sell  best  on  your  market  by  the  crate,  barrel,  bushel, 

weight,  or  by  the  head  ? 

7.  How  is  cabbage  shipped  to  your  market  f 

8.  What  prices  does  it  command  f 

9.  What  is  a  good  yield  of  cabbage  to  the  acre? 

10.    When  does  it  pay  to  make  sauerkraut?     How  is  it  made? 

20.  Storing  the  late  crop.  —  There  are  so  many  methods  of 
storing  late  cabbage 
that  httle  attempt 
will  be  made  here  to 
describe  them,  but 
the  student  should 
consult  the  references. 
No  other  plan  will 
keep  winter  cabbages 
in  better  condition 
than  burying.  This 
should  be  done  as 
late  as  possible  in  the 
fall.  A  well-drained 
location     should      be 

selected,  and  the  heads      ^'°-  ?;^' "  ^°°^  ^^f  °^  ?^  ^sai  or  Chinese  cab- 
bage.    This  IS  becoming  more  popular  among 
should    be  covered  American  gardeners  every  year. 


no 


VEGETABLE   GROWING   PROJECTS 


with  at  least  four  or  five  inches  of  soil.  An  additional  covering 
of  five  or  six  inches  of  horse  manure  will  give  ample  protection 
to  the  heads  in  most  parts  of  the  North,  though  more  manure 
should  be  used  in  the  coldest  sections. 

1.  What  is  the  best  method  for  you  to  store  your  cabbage  ? 

2.  Do  you  think  it  will  pay  you  to  store  cabbage  ?     Why  ? 

3.  Describe  the  most  important  methods  of  storing  cabbage. 

4.  How  may  it  be  buried  successfully  f  W-VG  :  280-281 .  L :  308-309. 


Project  V.     Growing  Cauliflower 

Cauliflower  and  broccoli  belong  to  the  mustard  family.     They 
are  close  relatives  of  common  cabbage  but  differ  from  it  very 


Fk;.  35. — Good  lieads  of  Snowball  cauliflower. 

greatly  in  the  structure  of  the  head.  In  cabbage  the  head  is  an 
enlarged  bud  composed  only  of  leaves.  In  cauliflower  and  broc- 
coli the  head  is  made  up  of  modified,  thickened  flower  clusters 


COLE   CROP   PROJECTS  111 

surrounded  by  a  number  of  green,  cabbage-like  leaves.  The 
edible  part  is  entirely  the  modified  floral  parts.  In  order  to  grow 
seed  the  plants  are  started  in  July  and  when  partly  developed  are 
stored  in  cold  frames  for  the  winter.  The  following  season  they 
are  set  in  the  open  ground  again  and  will  produce  seed.  The 
plants  grow  best  and  the  seeds  mature  well  only  during  compara- 
tively cool  weather.  Seed  is  not  successfully  produced  in  this 
country  except  in  the  northern  Pacific  Coast  region  where  the 
climatic  conditions  seem  most  favorable,  and  to  a  limited  extent 
in  greenhouses. 

Cauliflower  and  broccoli  are  very  similar.  Broccoli  differs  in 
having  smaller  heads  surrounded  by  more  numerous  stiffer  leaves 
and  in  requiring  a  longer  time  to  mature. 

1.  What  is  the  nature  of  the  head  of  the  cauliflower? 

2.  When  will  cauliflower  produce  seed? 

3.  How  is  broccoli  related  to  cauliflower f 

Project  Outline 

1.  Importance  of  crop. 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Starting  plants. 

6.  Preparing  soil. 

7.  Planting  in  the  garden. 

8.  Companion  cropping. 

9.  Cultivating. 

10.  Protecting  heads. 

11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 


112  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  Importance  of  crop.  —  Cauliflower  is  regarded  as  the  most 
refined  and  the  most  dehcate  member  of  the  cabbage  family.  It 
is  unquestionably  the  most  difficult  to  grow.  The  crop  is  of 
special  commercial  importance  in  certain  localities  that  furnish 
ideal  climatic  and  cultural  conditions  such  as  Long  Island  and 
other  sections  adjacent  to  large  bodies  of  water.  It  is  grown 
locally  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  for  all  northern  markets,  and  it 
is  a  favorite  crop  with  thousands  of  home  gardeners. 

1.  To  what  extent  is  cauliflower  grown  for  commercial  purposes? 

W-VG  :  295.     C  :  187. 

2.  What  points  can  be  made  in  its  favor  for  the  home  garden? 

W-VG  :  295.     C  :  187. 

3.  Do  you  think  you  should  grow  cauliflower  as  a  home  project  f 

4.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  cauliflower  f 

5.  How  does  cauliflower  differ  bota7iically  from  cabbage  f 

6.  Carefully  examine  and  describe  a  head  of  cauliflower.     Of  what 

parts  of  the  plant  is  it  composed? 

7.  What  are  the  best  methods  to  cook  and  serre  cauliflower? 

8.  To  what  extent  is  cauliflower  grown  as  a  forcing  crop? 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  Though  cauliflower  is  very  closely 
related  to  cabbage,  conditions  which  are  favorable  to  the  culture 
of  the  latter  crop  might  fail  to  yield  a  satisfactory  crop  of  cauli- 
flower. For  example,  farm  land  of  average  fertility  with  a  fairly 
heavy  grass  sod,  and  moderate  applications  of  plant  food,  should 
produce  a  profitable  crop  of  cabbage ;  but  its  use  for  cauliflower, 
on  a  business  scale  at  least,  would  be  an  unsafe  venture.     In  the 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  113 

culture  of  cauliflower,  we  are  dealing  with  a  plant  of  exacting 
climatic,  soil  moisture,  and  plant  food  requirements,  and  these 
very  reasons  may  commend  the  crop  to  students  who  have  had 
considerable  gardening  experience.  The  chances  of  success  will 
be  much  greater  if  we  can  find  a  plot  of  ground  which  is  naturally 
fertile  and  moist,  though  well  drained.  Proximity  to  a  large  body 
of  water  is  always  an  advantage  for  this  crop,  because  it  insures 
high  humidity  which  is  favorable  both  to  the  growth  of  the  plants 
and  the  development  of  the  heads. 

1.  What  are  the  most  important  considerations  in  selecting  a  loca- 

tion for  cauliflower  ? 
W-VG  :  297.     L  :  120.     C  :  188.     A  :  69-72. 

2.  What  are  the  most  favorable  climatic  conditions  ? 

W-VG  :  297.     L  :  120. 

3.  Have  you  a  suitable  location  for  this  crop  ? 

4.  In  what  parts  of  the  comitry  is  cauliflower  most  largely  grown? 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  The  three  leading  varieties  of  early 
cauliflower  are  Dwarf  Erfurt,  Snowball,  and  Snowstorm. 

1.  What  are  the  leading  early  varieties  of  cauliflower?    Late 

varieties  ? 

W-VG  :  298.     Seed  catalogues. 

2.  What  varieties  are  grown  in  your  community  ? 

3.  What  varieties  are  best  for  you  to  grow  ? 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  The  most  perfect  conditions  may  be  pro- 
vided for  the  growing  of  cauliflower,  but  poor  seed  may  cause 
almost  a  total  loss  of  the  crop.  It  is  not  so  much  a  question  of 
whether  the  seed  will  grow  or  not,  but  the  great  question  is,  has 


114  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

the  seed  been  well  bred  so  that  it  will  produce  a  good  crop  under 
favorable  conditions  ?  Enough  has  been  said  to  show  the  student 
that  he  should  exercise  extreme  care  in  purchasing  cauliflower 
seed.  Consult  market  gardeners  in  the  community  ;  get  in  touch 
with  your  county  agent ;  write  your  agricultural  college.  Make 
certain,  if  possible,  that  the  seed  you  plant  will  not  disappoint 
you  by  yielding  a  light  and  poor  crop. 

1.  What  is  the  result  when  poor  seed  is  planted  ? 

2.  What  has  the  U.  S.  Government  done  in  growing  seed  under 

glass  ? 
W-VF :  236. 

3.  Where  can  you  get  good  seed  ? 

4.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  ? 

5.  Starting  plants.  —  Greater  care  must  be  exercised  in  the 
growing  of  cauliflower  plants  than  in  starting  early  cabbage  plants. 
The  seedlings  are  more  susceptible  to  damping-off  fungi,  and  are 
more  sensitive  to  variable  temperatures  and  soil  moisture  condi- 
tions. While  there  should  be  a  constant  supply  of  soil  moisture 
to  the  full  depth  of  the  plant  bed,  overwatering  must  be  avoided. 
In  brief,  extreme  care  must  be  exercised  to  be  successful  in  growing 
early  cauliflower  plants.  In  general,  they  are  grown  in  practically 
the  same  way  as  early  cabbage  plants,  though  the  seed  is  seldom 
sown  in  the  North  very  much  before  March  1,  and  the  plants 
should  not  be  subjected  to  such  low  temperatures. 

Late  plants  are  started  from  field  sown  seed  as  explained  for 
growing  late  cabbage  plants. 

1.   Describe  in  detail  the  growing  of  early  cauliflower  plants. 
W  :  44-65,  94-99.     W-VG  :  298.     C  :  188. 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  115 

2.    How  are  late  cauliflower  plants  started  ? 
W-VG  :  299.     C  :  189. 

6.  Preparing  soil.  —  In  W :  114  the  importance  of  a  moist, 
fertile  soil  was  strongly  emphasized.  No  effort  should  be  spared 
in  the  preliminary  tillage  operations,  and  rotten  manure  should 
be  used  in  liberal  amounts.  It  is  likely  that  a  ton  of  high-grade 
fertilizer  to  the  acre  may  be  profitably  applied.  Lime  is  usually 
desirable. 

1.  Describe  the  preliminary  tillage  operations  for  planting  cauli- 

flower. 

2.  How  should  cauliflower  be  fertilized  ? 

W :  99.     W-VG  :  299.     C  :  188. 

7.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  The  early  plants  should  not  be 
set  in  the  open  ground  until  after  danger  of  hard  frosts  is  past. 
While  frost  will  not  kill  well-hardened  plants,  it  is  unsafe  to 
proceed  very  far  in  the  hardening  of  cauliflower  plants,  for  this 
may  check  their  normal  growth  and  development,  and  interfere 
with  head  formation.  Late  plants  are  generally  transplanted 
about  the  first  of  July. 

1.  When  should  early  cauliflower  plants  be  set  in  the  open  ground  ? 

Late  plants  ? 
W-VG  :  299.     CL :  189. 

2.  What  should  be  the  planting  distances  for  early  and  late  cauli- 

flower ? 
W-VG:  299.     W:  313.     CL  :  189. 

3.  Under  what  conditions  does  cauUflower  head  the  best  ? 

8.  Companion  cropping.  —  Cauliflower  may  be  used  as  a  com- 
panion crop  with  other  vegetables  very  much  in  the  same  way  as 


116  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

cabbage.     However,  companion  cropping  out  of  doors  is  not  so 
popular  as  under  glass,  where  space  is  more  valuable. 

1.    Suggest  a  few  good  plans  for  companion  cropping,  including 
cauliflower. 
W  :  102.     W-VF  :  384. 

9.  Cultivating.  —  The  most  thorough  cultivation  should  be 
given  this  crop,  beginning  immediately  after  planting  in  the  field. 
Small  areas  are  often  planted  close  together  and  cultivated  with  a 
wheel  hoe.     W :  305. 

10.  Protecting  heads.  —  Whether  the  cauliflower  is  to  be  sold 
or  used  on  the  home  table,  the  heads  should  be  pure  white.  To 
accomphsh  this  it  is  necessary  to  protect  them  from  the  rain  and 
sunshine  by  tying  the  leaves  together  over  the  heads  or  by  fastening 
them  in  some  other  convenient  manner.  This  operation  should 
have  attention  as  soon  as  the  heads  are  visible  or  when  about  an 
inch  in  diameter. 

1.  Why  should  heads  of  cauliflower  be  protected  ? 

W-VG  :  300.     L :  122. 

2.  When  should  it  be  done  ? 

W-VG  :  300.     C  :  189. 

3.  What  plan  will  you  employ  to  protect  the  heads  ? 

W-VG  :  300.     C  :  189. 

11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  The  various  enemies 
of  cabbage  also  feed  on  cauliflower. 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Cauliflower  is  so  delicate  and 
tender  that  the  heads  are  easily  bruised  by  any  rough  handling. 
Though  commercial  growers  often  pack  in  barrels  and  crates,  the 
less  extensive  grower  will  find  that  his  profits  may  be  increased 


COLE   CROP  PROJECTS  117 

by  wrapping  the  heads  in  tissue  or  light  oiled  paper,  either  white 
or  of  a  greenish  tint.  If  proper  care  is  exercised  in  marketing,  a 
paying  price  should  be  received  for  every  head. 

1.  When  should  cauliflower  be  cut  and  how  should  it  be  prepared 

for  market  ? 

W-VG  :  300.     C  :  190-192. 

2.  What  kind  of  package  will  be  best  for  your  market? 

W-VG:  300.     C:191. 

3.  What  is  the  usual  price  paid  for  cauliflower  by  your  local  mar- 

ket? 


CHAPTER  FOUR 
SALAD    CROP   PROJECTS 

Celery,  Lettuce,  Parsley,  Endive,  Corn  Salad,  Cress 

Though  a  few  other  vegetables  of  minor  importance  may  be 
included  in  the  Hst  of  salad  crops,  the  ones  of  main  importance 
are  celery,  lettuce,  parsley,  endive,  corn  salad,  and  cress.  Celery 
and  lettuce  are  produced  largely  for  the  home  table  and  for  com- 
mercial purposes  in  most  parts  of  the  country,  and  they  are  treated 
as  separate  projects.  Parsley  is  a  species  belonging  to  the  carrot 
family.  It  is  a  close  relative  of  celery.  Parsley  behaves  as  a 
biennial,  growing  a  group  of  leaves  the  first  season  and  sending 
up  an  erect  flowering  stalk  the  second  season.  The  leaves  are  much 
cut  and  often  curled  in  garden  varieties.  The  flowers  are  greenish- 
yellow.  Parsley  is  a  native  of  the  Old  World  and  is  grown  to  some 
extent  in  American  gardens,  but  is  not  considered  a  crop  of  great 
financial  possibilities  largely  because  of  the  limited  demand  for  it. 
Instructions  relating  to  its  culture  may  be  found  in  W-VG :  406 ; 
L:  157,  158,  310;  C  :  327.  Endive,  cress,  and  corn  salad  are  of 
less  importance  than  parsley.  Brief  references  to  their  production 
may  be  found  in  W-VG,  L,  and  C. 

The  salad  crops  are  comparatively  shallow  rooted.  They  re- 
quire an  abundance  of  plant  food  and  a  constant  supply  of  soil 
moisture. 

Project  VI.     Growing  Celery 

Celery  belongs  to  the  carrot  family  which  includes  also  the 
parsnip  and  parsley.     This  family  is  most  at  home  in  the  north 

118 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  119 

temperate  region.     The  wild  form,  from  which  our  cultivated 
celery  has  arisen,  is  a  native  of  Europe. 

In  common  celery  the  portions  of  the  plant  which  are  used  com- 
mercially are  the  enlarged  leaf  stalks,  botanically  known  as  the 
petioles.  In  celeriac,  or  turnip-rooted  celery,  the  root  is  enlarged 
and  fleshy  and  constitutes  the  edible  portion  of  the  plant.  Celery 
and  celeriac  are  offshoots  of  the  same  species.  Ordinarily  celery 
grown  from  seeds  forms  a  clump  of  leaves,  with  the  thick  stalks 
the  first  season,  and  if  left  in  the  ground  sends  up  seed  stalks  the 
second  season.  A  plant  thus  producing  seed  the  second  season  is 
known  as  a  biennial.  The  flowers  are  white,  small,  and  in  small 
groups  called  umbels.  The  seeds  are  small,  it  being  estimated 
that  an  ounce  contains  between  60,000  and  70,000  seeds.  The 
leaves  are  compound,  and  the  leaflets  divided  and  coarsely  toothed. 
The  white  or  blanched  condition  of  the  leaf  stalks  is  secured  by 
keeping  the  light  away  from  them.  The  green  color,  which  is  such 
a  predominant  feature  of  plants,  can  develop  only  in  the  light. 
Potato  sprouts  growing  in  a  dark  cellar,  or  grasses  growing  under 
a  board,  are  without  green  color.  In  order  that  growth  may 
continue  the  green  color  must  be  developed  somewhere.  There- 
fore in  celery  growing  the  leaf  stalks  are  kept  from  the  light,  but 
the  leaf  blades  are  left  in  the  light. 

1.  To  what  family  does  celery  belong? 

2.  How  does  celery  differ  from  celeriac? 

3.  Why  is  celery  said  to  he  a  biennial? 

4.  Under  what  conditions  does  the  blanching  of  celery  take  place? 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  celery  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 


120  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Constructing  the  hotbed. 

6.  Constructing  the  cold  frame. 

7.  Making  plant  boxes. 

8.  Making  straw  mats. 

9.  Sowing  for  the  early  crop. 

10.  Caring  for  the  seedlings. 

11.  Growing  late  plants. 

12.  Preparing  the  soil. 

13.  Planting  in  the  garden. 

14.  Companion  cropping. 

15.  Irrigating. 

16.  Cultivating. 

17.  Mulching. 

18.  Blanching. 

19.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

20.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

21.  Storing  the  late  crop. 

1.  Why  grow  celery  ?  —  The  student  gardener  will  do  well  to 
investigate  the  available  markets  and  ascertain  the  demand  for 
this  vegetable.  He  may  be  surprised  to  learn  that  they  are  poorly 
supplied  with  good  celery  and  that  he  has  a  real  business  oppor- 
tunity to  engage  in  the  growing  of  a  crop  the  production  of  which 
is  not  generally  understood.  While  there  are  hundreds  of  suc- 
cessful growers,  the  fact  is  that  a  large  percentage  of  those  who 
attempt  the  culture  of  this  salad  crop  do  not  achieve  as  great 
success  as  they  do  with  many  other  vegetables,  such  as  the  onion, 
cabbage,  tomato,  sweet  corn,  and  potato  —  vegetables  which  are 
more  universally  grown.  It  must  be  admitted  that  celery  is  more 
difHcult  to  grow  than  the  vegetables  just  mentioned,  but  this  very 
fact  may  make  its  culture  a  more  attractive  business  venture  to 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  121 

the  ambitious  student  or  club  member.  At  the  same  time,  let  us 
remember  that  there  is  nothing  mysterious  about  the  growing  of 
celery,  that  it  is  largely  a  matter  of  understanding  the  principles 
involved  and  of  adopting  practices  that  conform  to  the  principles. 
It  is  surprising  how  rapidly  this  vegetable  has  gained  in  popu- 
larity among  all  classes  of  American  consumers.  Nearly  all  home 
gardeners  try  to  grow  a  little  celery.  Thousands  of  general  mar- 
ket gardeners  grow  the  crop,  and  it  is  produced  on  a  mammoth 
scale  by  specialists  who  cultivate  muck  soils.  There  is  a  peculiar 
fascination  in  growing  the  crop  because  of  the  skill  required  and 
because  of  the  splendid  earning  capacity  of  the  plot  of  ground 
when  properly  managed. 

1.  Is  your  market  well  supplied  with  good  celery? 

2.  Do  you  think  the  crop  ofifers  special  opportunities  for  you  ?     If 

so,  why? 

3.  What  is  the  commercial  importance  of  celery? 

W-VG  :  302.    L :  133.     C  :  194.     B  :  2. 

4.  In  what  parts  of  the  country  is  celery  largely  grown  for  commercial 

purposes  f 

B:2.    W-VG:  303. 

5.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  celery?    W-VG  :  302. 

6.  What  arc  its  chief  botanical  characteristics? 

W-VG  :  303.     C  :  194.     B  :  1.     W :  119. 

7.  How  is  it  generally  served  on  the  table?     W-VG  :  302. 

8.  What  is  its  chemical  composition  ?     Its  food  value  ? 

2.   Selecting  location.  —  The  cooler  climates  are  most  suitable 
for  the  growing  of  celery.     When  its  culture  is  attempted  in  the 


122  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

South,  advantage  is  taken  of  the  months  that  afford  the  best 
temperature  conditions.  While  celery  is  matured  at  midsummer 
in  the  North,  our  best  product  does  not  reach  the  market  until 
late  in  the  fall.  The  cool  nights  of  late  September  and  October 
are  most  favorable  to  the  development  of  crisp,  tender  stalks.  It 
may  be  said,  however,  that  with  intelligent  management  the  crop 
may  be  grown  with  entire  success  in  all  parts  of  the  North. 

The  bulk  of  the  enormous  quantity  of  celery  shipped  to  our 
great  city  markets  is  grown  on  muck  soils.  These  soils  furnish 
ideal  conditions  for  the  crop.  They  generally  contain  more  than 
50%  of  organic  matter  and  this  is  the  chief  reason  for  their  adap- 
tation to  celery.  They  are  moist,  loose,  and  fertile,  and  provide 
the  very  best  conditions  for  this  shallow-rooted  crop. 

But  comparatively  few  students  or  club  members  can  select 
muck  soils  for  their  home  project.  If  the  cultivation  of  this  crop 
is  to  be  attempted,  some  other  soil  must  be  chosen.  We  must 
find  or  make  a  soil  which  is  loose  and  friable  in  its  physical  prop- 
erties, and  which  contains  an  abundant  and  constant  supply  of 
moisture  and  available  plant  food.  If  we  will  keep  in  mind  the 
composition  of  muck  soils  (W-VG :  306),  it  will  help  us  to  choose 
a  good  soil  for  celery,  though  muck  may  not  be  available.  The 
sandy  loams  are  excellent.  They  should  abound  in  humus  or 
decaying  vegetable  matter.  However,  any  good  soil  which  has 
been  used  for  gardening  purposes  should  be  suitable,  with  proper 
treatment,  for  the  growing  of  celery.  It  is  important,  of  course, 
to  give  very  careful  attention  to  the  preparation  of  the  soil,  espe- 
cially if  it  is  not  naturally  ideal  for  growing  celery. 

1.  What  are  the  most  suitable  climatic  conditions  for  growing 

celery?     W-VG  :  305.     L:133.     B  :  3. 

2,  What  are  the  best  soil  conditions  for  this  crop  ? 

W-VG  :  305-308.    L  :  133.     C  :  195.     B  :  4. 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  123 

3.  Do  you  have  a  favorable  location  for  celery  culture  ? 

4.  Describe  the  climate  of  the  most  important  celery  growing  districts. 

5.  What  is  the  range  in  temperature,  covering  a  period  of  ten  pears, 

in  your  own  community  f 

6.  What  is  the  composition  of  a,  typical  muck  soil?     W-VG  :  306. 

7.  What  are  the  type  and  composition  of  the  soil  you  are  considering  ? 

8.  What  is  the  average  annual  rainfall  of  your  section  f 


3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  Celery  is  divided  into  two  general 
classes,  namely,  green  varieties  and  the  so-called  self-blanching 
types.  Probably  nine 
tenths  of  all  the  celery 
sold  in  the  United 
States  belongs  to  the 
self-blanching  type. 
This  is  due  to  the  fact 
that  the  plants  are  gen- 
erally more  dwarf  in 
habit  of  growth,  are 
more  easily  blanched, 
and  may  be  grown 
closer  together  than 
the  tall  green  sorts.  In 
other  words,  in  the  judgment  of  most  growers,  they  offer  greater 
financial  possibilities  than  do  the  green  varieties.  On  the  other 
hand,  we  should  not  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that  the  green  kinds 
are  superior  in  quality,  and  this  may  be  an  important  considera- 
tion in  favor  of  their  selection.  The  self-blanching  varieties 
are  invariably  selected  for  the  early  crop,  and   they  are  most 


Fig.  36.  ■ 


Winter  Queen  celery,  one  of  the  best  late 
green  varieties. 


124  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

largely  grown  on  muck  soils  for  the  late  crops.  The  green  sorts 
are  grown  mainly  for  local  markets  and  for  late  fall  and  winter 
consumption,  especially  for  markets  demanding  the  highest 
quality. 

Golden  Self-Blanching  is  the  most  extensively  grown  of  this 
class.  The  plants  are  very  stocky  and  compact.  White  Plume 
is  taller  and  more  vigorous  but  not  quite  so  good  in  quality  as 
Golden  Self-Blanching.  In  recent  years,  Easy  Blanching  has 
been  introduced,  and  it  is  rapidly  gaining  friends  because  of  its 
vigor  of  growth  and  superior  quality. 

Among  the  green  varieties.  Giant  Pascal  has  stood  at  the  top 
of  the  list  for  high  quality.  Winter  Queen,  French's  Success,  and 
Boston  Market  are  also  favorite  varieties. 

1.  What  varieties  would  you  select  for  an  early  crop  ?     For  a  late 

crop  ? 
W-VG  :  304-305.     B  :  125-129.     Catalogues. 

2.  What  are  the  merits  of  the  varieties  which  you  have  decided  to 

plant? 

3.  How  may  varieties  of  celery  be  classified  f    B  :  125. 

4.  What  varieties  of  celery  are  grown  in  your  neighborhood? 

5.  Hoiv  do  varieties  differ  in  habit  of  growth? 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  It  is  urged  that  the  greatest  care  be 
exercised  in  the  selection  of  seed,  for  inferior  seed  may  cause 
almost  a  total  failure,  regardless  of  other  important  factors. 
Poor  seed  may  result  in  an  inferior  type  of  plants,  pithy  or 
hollow  stalks,  lack  of  vigor,  low  percentage  of  germination  or 
running  to  seed  the  first  year.  We  cannot  be  too  careful  in  this 
matter.     Consult  the  commercial  growers  in  the  neighborhood. 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  125 

Inquire  of  reputable  seedsmen  about  the  merits  of  their  seed. 
Write  to  your  agricultural  college.  Commercial  growers  often 
buy  seed  and  test  it  a  year  in  advance  by  making  small  plantings. 

1.  What  are  the  effects  of  poor  seed?     W-VG  :  307. 

2.  Where  can  you  obtain  seed  of  high  quality  ? 

3.  Where  is  celery  seed  grown  most  largely  for  the  trade? 

W-VG :  307. 

4.  Should  you  attempt  to  grow  your  own  seed?     C  :  195. 

5.  How  would  you  proceed  to  grow  seed? 

6.  Should  seed  be  fresh,  or  a  year  or  more  old?   W-VG  :  307.   C  :  195. 

7.  How  and  where  should  celery  seed  he  stored?    W-VG  :  307. 

8.  How  is  celery  seed  used  in  cookery?    W-VG  :  302. 

5.  Constructing  the  hotbed.  —  The  growing  of  an  early  crop 
will  require  the  construction  of  a  hotbed,  unless  the  plants  are 
started  in  a  greenhouse  or  in  a  sunny  window.  If  the  student  has 
selected  tomatoes,  too,  for  a  home  project,  there  is  no  reason  why 
the  same  hotbed  will  not  serve  for  the  starting  of  both  crops,  for 
the  seed  may  be  sown  at  the  same  time.  Instructions  for  the 
making  of  hotbeds  are  given  in  W :  44. 

6.  Constructing  the  cold  frame.  —  It  is  questionable  to  what 
extent  cold  frames  may  be  used  for  the  starting  of  early  celery 
plants.  The  plants  must  not  be  subjected  to  low  temperatures 
at  any  time,  for  this  may  cause  them  to  produce  seeds  instead  of  a 
marketable  crop.  For  this  reason,  it  is  better  to  keep  the  plants 
in  the  warm  temperature  of  the  hotbed  or  the  greenhouse  until 
they  are  transferred  to  the  open  ground.     However,  if  the  seed 


126  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

is  sown  quite  late,  cold  frames  may  be  used  for  a  short  period 
before  the  plants  are  taken  to  the  field.  For  instructions  on  build- 
ing a  cold  frame  see  W  :  46. 

7.  Making  plant  boxes.  —  Plant  boxes  or  flats  will  be  found 
very  convenient  for  starting  early  plants.  Instructions  for  making 
them  are  given  in  W :  48. 

8.  Making  straw  mats.  —  Both  the  hotbeds  and  cold  frames 
will  need  protection  in  addition  to  that  furnished  by  the  sash. 
Straw  mats  are  very  satisfactory  for  this  purpose,  and  instructions 
for  making  them  are  given  in  W :  50. 

9.  Sowing  the  early  crop.  —  In  most  parts  of  the  North,  seed 
for  the  early  crop  should  be  sown  about  March  1.  If  suitable 
facilities  are  available,  there  is  no  objection  to  sowing  ten  to 
fifteen  days  earlier. 

Celery  seeds  are  very  small  and  slow  to  germinate,  and  for  this 
reason  the  soil  in  which  they  are  sow^n  should  be  fine  and  friable, 
so  that  each  seed  will  be  surrounded  by  the  finest  soil  particles. 
These  soil  particles,  too,  must  be  kept  constantly  moist  in  order 
to  insure  prompt  germination. 

As  previously  stated,  flats  are  very  convenient  for  the  starting  of 
early  plants.  After  filling  them  with  fine  soil  the  seeds  are  sown 
thinly  in  rows  about  two  inches  apart  and  barely  covered  with 
fine  soil  or  sand.  It  is  so  easy  to  wash  out  the  little  seeds  when 
watering  that  a  good  plan  is  to  place  a  piece  of  burlap  over  the  box 
after  it  is  sown  and  sprinkle  this  instead  of  the  soil.  If  desired  the 
burlap  may  remain  on  the  box  until  the  seeds  begin  to  sprout. 
Whatever  plan  is  followed,  the  boxes  should  be  inspected  daily 
and  watered  as  often  as  may  be  necessary  to  keep  the  soil  con- 
stantly and  uniformly  moist,  but  never  wet.  A  temperature  of 
70  to  75  degrees  should  be  maintained  if  possible  until  the  plants 
are  up. 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  127 

1.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  to  start  your  early  plants? 

When  wiU  you  sow  ?     W-VG  :  308.     B  :  1 . 

2.  What  kind  of  soil  should  be  selected  for  the  seed  bed  ? 

W:122.     W-VG:  308.     L  :  133.     C  :  195.     B  :  36. 

3.  Explain  the  details  of  sowing. 

W-VG  :  308-309.     L  :  134-135.     C  :  195.     B  :  37. 

4.  What  temperature  should  be  maintained  for  germinating  the 

seed?     W-VG:  308.     B  :  38. 

5.  Give  instructions  for  watering  the  seed  bed. 


10.  Caring  for  the  seedlings.  —  As  soon  as  the  tiny  plants  are 
up  they  must  have  plenty  of  light,  sunshine,  and  fresh  air,  other- 
wise they  will  become  pale,  weak,  and  spindling.  The  aim  should 
be  to  grow  short,  stocky  plants,  and  this  will  require  close  atten- 
tion in  watering  and  ventilating.  Just  enough  water  should  be 
applied  to  maintain  a  steady  growth.  It  is  well  to  water  between 
rows  with  a  small  stream  and  avoid  wetting  tops.  The  seedlings 
should  be  transplanted  into  flats  as  soon  as  the  true  or  rough 
leaves  develop,  spacing  them  about  Ij  inches  apart  each  way. 
The  plants  are  then  cared  for  daily,  watering  or  ventilating  as 
may  be  necessary  to  encourage  a  thrifty,  vigorous  growth. 

1.  When  should  the  seedlings  be  transplanted? 

W-VG:  309.     L:134.     C  :  196. 

2.  How  far  apart  should  the  plants  be  set  in  fiats  ?    W-VG  :  309. 

3.  What  is  the   main  consideration  in  watering  plants  and  in 

ventilating  the  hotbed  or  cold  frame  ? 

4.  What  precautions  should  be  taken  in  transferring  the  plants 

from  the  hotbed  to  the  cold  frame  ? 


128  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

11.  Growing  late  plants  — Seed  for  the  late  crop  is  nearly 
always  sown  in  the  open  ground,  and  the  time  is  usually  as  early 
in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared.  If  the  student  is  not 
interested  in  the  growing  of  early  celery,  he  should  study  W :  127, 
so  that  he  may  become  familiar  with  the  principles  involved  in  the 
germination  of  the  very  small  seeds.  It  is  more  difficult  to  main- 
tain a  constant  supply  of  moisture  in  the  open  ground  seed  bed 
than  in  flats  kept  in  the  hotbed  or  greenhouse. 

It  is  absolutely  essential  to  make  a  perfect  seed  bed  by  the 
application  of  rotten  manure  and  the  most  thorough  pulverization 
of  the  soil.  The  rows  should  be  about  a  foot  apart  and  the  seed 
barely  covered.  Covering  the  rows  with  a  screen  of  some  kind  or 
perhaps  with  old  carpet  or  burlap  bags  will  help  to  retain  the 
moisture.  This  pra'ctice,  however,  is  seldom  necessary  if  the  beds 
have  been  properly  prepared.  The  bed  should  be  kept  thoroughly 
cultivated  until  the  plants  are  set  where  the  crop  is  to  mature. 

1.  Where  should  late  plants  be  started? 

W-VG  :  309.     L :  134.     C  :  196.     B  :  43. 

2.  Where  should  the  seed  be  sown? 

W-VG  :  309.     L  :  134.     C  :  196.     B  :  43. 

3.  How  should  the  seed  bed  be  prepared? 

4.  What  are  safe  directions  for  sowing  and  caring  for  the  plants  ? 

5.  What  other  method  may  be  employed  in  growing  late  celery  plants? 

6.  Do  you  think  it  ivould  pay  you  to  grow  late  plants  to  sell  to  your 

neighbors  ? 

12.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  The  student  has  learned  in  W :  122 
that  celery  is  exacting  in  its  soil  and  plant  food  requirements.     We 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  129 

cannot  hope  to  make  a  success  of  this  crop  unless  we  provide  ideal 
soil  conditions,  physically  and  chemically. 

As  previously  stated  a  liberal  supply  of  organic  matter  is  of 
paramount  importance.  This  is  usually  provided  by  applying 
rotten  manure  in  amounts  varying  from  10  tons  to  50  or  more 
tons  to  the  acre.  If  the  manure  can  be  obtained  at  a  reasonable 
cost,  it  will  pay,  in  all  probability,  to  use  at  least  25  tons  to  the 
acre  and  double  this  amount  may  be  profitable.  Much  will  de- 
pend on  the  organic  content  of  the  soil  previous  to  its  preparation 
for  celery. 

All  kinds  of  stable  and  poultry  manure  are  used  for  the  growing 
of  celery.  Poultry  droppings  are  especially  desirable  because  of 
their  fineness  of  texture  and  large  nitrogen  content.  Poultry 
manure  and  other  kinds  of  thoroughly  decayed  animal  manures 
should  be  applied  after  the  land  has  been  plowed,  and  mixed  well 
with  the  soil  by  means  of  a  disk  or  cutaway  harrow.  In  small 
plots  where  horse-drawn  implements  cannot  be  used,  spading  forks, 
wheel-hoe  cultivators,  and  hand  rakes  may  be  employed  for  the 
same  purpose.  If  only  coarse  or  partly  decayed  manures  are 
available,  they  should  be  applied  before  the  land  is  plowed. 

Comparatively  few  gardeners  atterhpt  to  grow  celery  without 
the  use  of  commercial  fertilizers.  The  amount  to  the  acre  varies 
greatly  as  does  also  the  kind.  A  ton  to  the  acre  is  considered  a 
fair  application  for  celery,  though  many  growers  use  a  ton  and  a 
half  or  even  two  tons  of  a  fertilizer  that  contains  about  4%  of 
nitrogen  and  8  to  10%  each  of  the  mineral  elements.  A  good 
practice  is  to  apply  at  least  a  ton  of  a  complete  fertilizer  before 
the  plants  are  set  out.  Then  if  the  plants  do  not  make  a  satis- 
factory growth,  top-dress  the  soil  with  nitrate  of  soda.  Nitrate 
of  soda  should  not  be  used  until  the  plants  are  well  established. 
From  100  to  200  pounds  to  the  acre  may  be  employed  at  each 
dressing,  and  this  should  be  worked  into  the  soil  with  tillage  tools, 
unless  applied  immediately  before  rain. 


130  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  What  kind  and  how  much  stable  manure  should  be  applied  for 

the  growing  of  celery  ?     W-VG  :  314.     C  :  197.     B  :  20. 

2.  What  kind  and  how  much  commercial  fertilizer  should  be  applied 

for  the  growing  of  celery  ?     W-VG  :  311.      C  :  197.      B  :  23. 

3.  How  and  when  should  the  manure  and  fertilizer  be  applied? 

W-VG:  311.     C:197.     B  :  25. 

4.  Make  an  estimate  of  the  manure  and  fertilizer  needed  for  your 

celery  project. 

5.  Ascertain  the  methods  employed  in  fertilizing  celery  in  the  most 

important  producing  districts  of  the  United  States. 

6.  Hoiv  are  muck  soils  fertilized  for  celery  f 

13.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  In  most  parts  of  the  North  the 
early  plants  are  not  transferred  to  the  open  ground  before  May  10 
to  15.  When  set  earlier  than  this,  severe  frosts  may  injure  the 
plants  or  cause  them  to  produce  seed  shoots.  Good  plants  set  in 
the  field  not  later  than  May  15  should  be  large  enough  to  sell  by 
August  1.  Plants  for  the  late  crop  are  generally  set  in  the  field 
the  latter  part  of  June  and  throughout  the  month  of  July. 

It  is  always  important  to  manage  the  soil  so  that  it  will  be  well 
supplied  with  moisture  at  the  time  of  transplanting.  Cloudy 
weather  and  high  humidity  are  also  favorable  to  successful  trans- 
planting, because  these  conditions  reduce  the  loss  of  water  by 
transpiration  from  the  leaves,  so  that  the  plants  do  not  wilt  so 
much  as  when  there  is  warm,  bright,  clear  weather. 

There  is  the  widest  variation  in  planting  distances  for  celery. 
When  the  early  crop  is  to  be  blanched  by  the  use  of  boards  (W :  133) 
the  rows  need  not  be  more  than  eighteen  inches  apart,  though 
most  growers  prefer  about  two  feet.  This  allows  ample  space  for 
cultivation  or  for  mulching.   (W  :  1 32.)    If  the  crop  is  to  be  blanched 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  131 

with  soil  in  the  field,  it  is  doubtful  if  the  rows  should  ever  be  closer 
than  four  feet  apart  and  many  growers  allow  five  feet,  especially 
for  the  tall  green  varieties. 

The  distance  between  plants  in  the  rows  varies  from  four  to 
about  eight  inches.  Early  varieties  are  often  planted  four  to 
five  inches  apart,  while  the  large  green  sorts  should  be  spaced  not 
less  than  six  inches  apart.  There  should  be  ample  space  for  the 
full  development  of  strong,  stocky  plants. 

1.  When  is  the  proper  time  to  plant  early  celery  in  the  field? 

Late  celery  ?     W-VG  :  312.     L  :  134.     C  :  198.     B  :  54. 

2.  What  are  the  best  planting  distances  for  early  and  late  celery  ? 

\Y-VG  :  313.     C  :  198-199. 

.  3.    How  many  plants  will  be  required  in  your  celery  project? 

4.  What   conditions    are    most   favorable   for   successful   trans- 

planting ? 

5.  What  tools  will  you  need  for  transplanting  ? 

6.  What   are   the    most  common  planting   distances   among   celery 

growers  f 

7.  What  is  the  relation  of  mulching  and  blanching  in  regard  to  planting 

distances  f 

14.  Companion  cropping.  —  Celery  and  onions  may  be  grown 
together  satisfactorily.  The  rows  of  onions  should  be  a  foot  apart 
and  they  should  be  planted  very  early  in  the  spring.  Every  fourth 
or  fifth  row  of  onions  is  pulled  for  bunching  and  celery  planted 
in  these  rows.  This  plan  of  double  cropping  is  excellent  for  any 
soil  which  is  suitable  for  the  growing  of  both  onions  and  celery. 

1.    What  other  plans  of  companion  cropping  including  celery  do  you 
recommend  f    W-VG  :  481,  482,  485. 


132  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

15.  Irrigating.  —  In  W  :  122  it  was  pointed  out  that  this  shallow- 
rooted  plant  must  have  a  bountiful  and  constant  supply  of  soil 
moisture.  For  this  reason  man^^  celery  growers  have  found  it 
profitable  to  install  irrigation  systems.  Various  plans  have  been 
employed,  but  the  overhead  methods  have  been  most  popular. 
The  distributing  pipe  lines  are  parallel,  generally  about  fifty  feet 
apart,  and  supported  above  ground  by  wooden  or  iron  posts. 
Special  nozzles  are  placed  four  feet  apart  in  the  distributing  lines, 
the  latter  being  turned  as  may  be  required  by  means  of  levers  at 
the  end  of  each  line.  With  proper  water  pressure  it  is  possible 
to  apply  water  uniformly  over  the  entire  area  between  the  distrib- 
uting lines.  Certain  parts  of  the  equipment  that  are  protected 
by  patents,  as  drilling  machines,  nozzles,  unions,  and  other  special 
equipment,  may  be  obtained  'from  the  manufacturers,  but  the 
galvanized  pipe  may  be  bought  wherever  it  can  be  purchased 
on  the  best  terms.  The  manufacturers  also  furnish,  free  of  charge, 
bulletins  giving  complete  instructions  for  the  installation  and 
operation  of  the  plants.  Students  who  have  access  to  a  town  or 
city  water  supply,  and  who  expect  to  grow  celery  for  a  number 
of  years,  may  be  fully  justified  in  installing  the  overhead  system 
in  at  least  part  of  their  garden. 

1.  What  are  the  main  factors  in  an  overhead  irrigating  plant? 

W-VG :  79-84.     Catalogues. 

2.  What  would  it  cost  you  to  the  acre?    Catalogues. 

3.  Do  you  think  it  would  pay  you  to  install  a  plant?     If  so,  why? 

16.  Cultivating.  —  The  most  thorough  and  careful  cultivation 
should  be  given  celery.  Inasmuch  as  it  is  a  shallow-rooted  crop, 
we  must  avoid  injury  of  the  root  by  not  cultivating  very  deep 
after  the  plants  have  attained  a  good  growth.  It  is  also  important 
not  to  throw  any  soil  on  the  hearts  of  the  young  plants,  W :  135. 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  133 

1.   What  are  the  most  important  points  to  keep  in  mind  when 
cultivating  celery  ?     W  :  132.     W-VG  :  ;U4.     C  :  199. 

17.  Mulching.  —  An  increasing  practice  among  growers  of 
celery,  especially  the  early  crop,  is  to  mulch  the  ground  with 
fresh  horse  manure  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  plants  have  been 
set  in  the  field.  Ordinarily,  the  rows  are  two  feet  apart  and  the 
plants  five  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  row.  The  fresh  horse  manure, 
if  heating,  should  be  spread  in  layers  about  a  foot  deep,  or  in 
loose  piles,  until  it  has  cooled  off.  It  should  then  be  spread  four 
or  five  inches  deep  between  the  rows,  which  will  require  forty  or 
fifty  tons  to  the  acre.  Such  a  heavy  mulch  of  manure  will  supply 
fertility  to  the  plants  after  every  rain  or  application  of  water,  con- 
serve soil  moisture  more  effectively  than  the  most  perfect  tillage, 
and  practically  prevent  all  weed  growth.  In  brief,  it  is  one  of  the 
most  certain  guarantees  against  a  failure  of  this  profitable  garden 
crop. 

1.  What  are  the  benefits  of  mulching  celery  with  manure  ? 

W-VG :  314. 

2.  What  are  the  best  directions  for  mulching?    W-VG  :  314. 

3.  What  other  materials  may  be  substituted  for  manure  in  mulching  f 

W-VG :  314. 

18.  Blanching.  —  American  markets  demand  well-blanched 
celery.  The  light-colored  stalks  are  obtained  by  forcing  the 
plants  to  grow  in  darkness  or  subdued  light.  In  the  absence  of 
full  light,  the  coloring  matter  of  the  green  stalks  is  destroyed  and 
additional  chlorophyll  or  coloring  matter  cannot  be  formed  to  any 
considerable  extent.  Blanching  also  improves  the  quality  of  the 
celery  by  making  it  more  crisp  and  tender. 

Early  celery  is  always  blanched  in  the  field  where  it  is  growing, 


134 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


while  late  celery  may  be  partly  or  wholly  blanched  in  the  field  or 
it  may  be  harvested  and  blanched  in  storage. 

Until  within  recent  years,  boards  were  used  almost  exclusively 
in  blanching  the  early  crop.  Boards  a  foot  wide  and  of  any 
convenient  length  are  stood  on  edge  and  leaned  against  the  plants 


Fig.  37. 


Plows  are  used  in  the  larger  commercial  fields  for  the  ridging  or  blanching 
of  celery. 


on  both  sides  of  the  row  and  held  in  place  by  stakes  or  other  con- 
venient devices.  Self-blanching  varieties  require  about  two 
weeks  to  make  the  plants  sufficiently  light  in  color  to  satisfy  mar- 
ket demands.  In  recent  years  long  strips  of  fairly  heavy  paper 
are  being  substituted  for  boards.  These  are  stretched  along  the 
rows  and  held  in  place  by  a  little  soil  or  perhaps  by  wire  devices 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  135 

made  especially  for  the  purpose.  When  boards  are  given  the 
proper  care  they  will  last  for  years,  and  many  growers  of  com- 
paratively small  areas  continue  the  use  of  boards. 

Late  celery  is  generally  ridged  with  soil  to  some  extent  in  the 
field  for  the  purpose  of  blanching  the  stalks.  This  operation 
generally  begins  with  the  cooler  fall  weather.  If  started  too  soon, 
when  the  weather  is  warm,  the  stems  may  be  discolored  more  or 
less.  Hilling  hoes  and  shovels  may  be  used  in  small  plantations 
to  ridge  the  plants,  while  plows  and  special  horse-drawn  hillers 
are  employed  in  the  large  commercial  plantations. 

1.  What  kind  of  celery  do  American  markets  demand? 

W-VG :  315. 

2.  How  does  blanching  affect  the  color,  texture,  and  quality  of 

celery?     W-VG :  316. 

3.  Describe   the    different   methods    of   blanching   early  celery. 

Late  celery.     W-VG  :  316-318.     L  :  137.     C  :  202-204. 

4.  How  much  lumber  or  paper  will  you  need  to  blanch  your  crop  ? 

5.  What  is  chlorophyll  and  under  ivhat  conditions  is  it  formed? 

6.  Describe  the  physiological  effects  of  blanching. 

7.  Secure  all  the  information  you  can  about  celery  hillers,  blanching 

paper,   and  machines  used  to   apply  the  paper.     Inquire   of 
growers.     Write  manufacturers. 

19.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  Fortunately  celery  does 
not  have  many  serious  insect  enemies.  The  carrot  rust  fly,  a 
native  of  Europe,  is  an  insect  which  seriously  dwarfs  celery  stalks 
through  the  destruction  of  the  fibrous  roots  by  maggots.  The 
w^hitish  sickly  plants  seldom  outgrow  the  attack  unless  new  fibrous 


136  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

root  grow  til  occurs  near  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  even  then  the 
plants  are  small  in  size  and  of  poor  quality.  The  adult  is  a 
small  dark  green  fly  with  a  yellow  head.  Eggs  are  usually  laid 
in  cracks  between  the  soil  and  the  plant  or  on  the  plant.  Young 
maggots  hatch  in  about  a  week,  feed  on  the  roots,  and  when 
mature  they  make  a  cell  in  the  soil  in  which  to  pupate.  Adults 
emerge  in  late  summer  and  deposit  eggs,  the  maggots  of  which 
are  often  plentiful  enough  to  injure  the  late  celery.  No  definite 
remedy  is  known. 

The  celery  butterfly,  a  beautiful  black,  swallowtail  butterfly, 
is  the  adult  of  the  destructive  celery  caterpillar  so  well  known  on 
account  of  its  brilliant  markings.  It  feeds  on  various  allied 
plants,  but  is  seldom  found  on  other  crops.  The  honey-yellow 
eggs  are  deposited  singly  on  the  leaves.  They  hatch  into  black 
and  white  banded  caterpillars  which  when  mature  are  green  in 
color  with  strong  black  and  yellow  markings.  Attention  is  often 
attracted  to  the  caterpillar  because  of  curious  orange-red  scent 
organs  on  its  prothorax.    Hand  picking  is  a  means  of  control. 

1.  Describe  the  appearance  of  injury  from  rust  fly  on  celery. 

CL  :  181-185. 

2.  How  does  this  injury  differ  from  its  work  on  the  roots  of  other 

plants?    CL:183. 

3.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  insect?     CL :  182-184. 

4.  Is  control  practicable?     CL  :  185. 

5.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  celery  butterfly  ?     CL  :  188. 

6.  Mention  three  noticeable  facts  about  the  caterpillar.     CL  :  188. 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  137 

7.  Name  five  plant  foods  of  the  caterpillar  other  than  celery. 

CL :  186. 

8.  Describe  the  adult  cafcrpillar.     CL  :  186-187. 

Celery  is  attacked  by  two  blight  diseases,  one  called  late 
blight  and  the  other  early  blight  or  leaf  spot.  The  early  blight 
spots  first  appear  on  the  older  or  outer  leaves  as  yellowish  areas. 
Later  the  spots  turn  brown  around  the  outside  and  have  a 
whitish  center.  Varieties  differ  in  their  susceptibility  to  this 
disease.  Spraying  with  Bordeaux  is  effective  if  begun  early  and 
should  really  be  started  in  the  seed  bed. 

Late  blight  appears  as  a  leaf  spot  in  its  early  stages.  Later 
very  small  black  dots  appear  on  the  spots  and  also  on  the  blanched 
leaf  stalks.  The  leaves  sometimes  wilt  in  severe  cases.  If  the 
disease  becomes  troublesome,  the  seeds  should  be  disinfected. 
Soaking  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  corrosive  sublimate  solution 
(1 :  1000)  is  the  treatment.  This  solution  is  poisonous,  must  be 
handled  with  care,  and  never  used  in  a  metal  container.  The 
same  seed  bed  should  not  be  used  successively.  Spraying  with 
Bordeaux  will  help  to  control  the  disease  either  in  the  seed  bed 
or  field. 

1.  How  do  the  two  blight  diseases  of  celery  differ  in  appearance  ? 

SH:  174-178. 

2.  What  three  control  measures  may  be  practiced  to  control  the 

late  blight  ? 

20.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  If  the  crop  is  to  be  sold  as 
fast  as  it  is  harvested,  a  convenient  plan  is  to  cut  the  roots  a  little 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground  so  as  to  leave  a  short  stub  at  the 
base  of  the  plant.  No  attempt  will  be  made  here  to  describe  the 
numerous  methods  of  preparing  the  crop  for  market.     It  is  sug- 


138  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

gested  that  the  grower  visit  his  local  markets  and  ascertain  the 
method  or  methods  preferred  by  the  dealers  and  then  exercise  * 
extreme  care.  If  the  plants  are  to  be  tied  in  bundles  of  three  or 
more,  it  is  likely  that  blue  or  red  tape,  one  quarter  inch  wide  and 
made  for  this  special  purpose,  could  be  used  to  advantage.  The 
plants  should  be  trimmed  of  all  discolored  leaves  or  withered  leaf 
stalks.  They  should  also  be  thoroughly  washed  and  sent  to  mar- 
ket in  the  most  attractive  condition. 

1.  When  is  celery  ready  to  harvest?     W-VG  :  319.     C  :  205. 

2.  What  is  the  most  convenient  way  for  you  to  harvest  your  crop  ? 

W-VG  :  319.     C  :  205.     B  :  104-123. 

3.  How  will  you  prepare  your  crop  for  market  ? 

4.  How  do  the  large  commercial  growers  harvest  their  crop? 

5.  Ascertain  the  methods  of  marketing  employed  by  growers  in  the 

most  important  producing  districts. 

6.  What  should  be  the  profits  from  an  acre  of  celery  ? 

21.  Storing  late  celery.  —  Celery  is  severely  injured  by  hard 
freezing  and  for  this  reason  it  is  unwise  to  defer  harvesting  the 
crop  very  much  later  than  November  1.  There  may  be  sections 
of  the  North  where  it  is  safe  to  leave  the  crop  in  the  field  with 
no  protection  until  Thanskgiving,  but  the  student  gardener  will 
show  wisdom  by  not  taking  too  much  risk  in  this  matter. 

It  is  important  for  growers  to  understand  that  the  crop  must 
be  stored  where  it  will  be  protected  from  hard  freezing  and  where 
the  air  is  cool  and  fairly  moist.  If  these  conditions  are  kept  in 
mind,  there  should  be  no  difficulty  in  providing  satisfactory  storage. 

For  growers  of  comparatively  small  areas,  perhaps  the  trench 
method  is  most  satisfactory.     The  trench  should  be  about  a  foot 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS 


139 


wide  and  deep  enough  for  the  plants  to  be  stood  erect  with  their 
tops  extending  several  inches  above  the  top  of  the  trench.  The 
plants  should  be  trenched  when  they  are  perfectly  dry.  They 
are  lifted  with  some 
soil  adhering  to  the 
roots  and  set  close  to- 
gether in  the  trench. 
Boards  nailed  together 
in  the  form  of  a 
trough  are  placed  over 
the  trenches  to  shed 
the  rain  and  protect 
the  plants  from  cold. 
A  little  soil  is  thrown 
along  the  bottom  of 
the  boards  when  the 
weather  gets  colder, 
and  later  the  boards 
are  covered  with 
manure  sufficient  to 
protect  the  plants 
during     the    severest 

cold  weather.  Should  there  be  warm  weather  at  any  time 
after  storing  the  crop,  it  will  be  an  advantage  to  raise  at  least 
some  of  the  boards  a  few  inches  above  the  ground  and  support 
them  with  blocks  of  wood  or  otherwise. 

The  late  crop  is  often  stored    in  special  storage  houses,  cold 
frames,  and  especially  constructed  pits. 

1.   What  is  the  efifect  of  hard  freezing  on  celery  ?   W-VG  :  321-322. 


Fig.  38.  —  Trenching  celery. 


2.   When  should  late  celery  be  stored  ? 

W-VG  :  321-322.     C  :  89,  103,  208-210. 


140  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  What  are  the  most  favorable  conditions  for  the  keeping  of 

celery  ?     W-VG  :  321-325.     B  :  104-108. 

4.  What  are  the  details  of  the  trench  system  ?     W-VG  :  322. 

5.  What  other  methods  may  be  employed  in  storing  celery  f 

6.  Describe  a  good  celery  pit. 

7.  What  difficulties  may  be  encountered  in  storing  the  crop? 

Project  VII.     Growing  Lettuce 

Lettuce  belongs  to  the  chicory  family,  which  ranks  as  one  of 
the  highest  of  all  the  plant  families.  The  thistle  family  is  closely 
related  to  it.  Wild  or  prickly  lettuce,  from  which  cultivated  lettuce 
is  supposed  to  have  originated,  is  a  native  of  Europe,  but  occurs 
in  many  places  in  this  country  as  a  troublesome  weed.  The  wild 
form  and  the  common  lettuce  will  readily  cross.  There  are  other 
species  of  wild  lettuce  which  are  natives  of  America.  Salsify, 
chicory,  and  endive  are  close  relatives.  Lettuce  is  said  to  have 
been  under  cultivation  for  more  than  2000  years.^ 

The  lettuce  plant  is  an  annual,  a  rather  rapid  grower,  sending 
up  a  seed  stalk  in  some  form  at  the  end  of  about  the  second  month. 
The  leaves  are  alternately  arranged  on  the  stems  but  vary  greatly 
in  shape  and  margins.  The  flowers  are  yellowish,  the  fruits  vary 
in  color,  being  white,  black,  yellow,  or  brown.  The  fruits  are  tipped 
with  soft  white  or  brownish  bristles  which  enable  them  to  float 
in  the  wind  like  a  dandelion  fruit.  The  numerous  varieties  of 
lettuce  catalogued  by  seedsmen  may  be  grouped  into  four  botanical 
types  :  (1)  asparagus  lettuce,  with  distinctly  narrow  basal  leaves ; 
(2)  cutting  or  loose-leaved  lettuce,  with  broad  basal  leaves,  deeply 
cut  on  the  edges ;  (3)  head  lettuce,  with  broad '  leaves,  smooth  or 
nearly  so  on  edges,  and  forming  a  compact  roundish  or  flattish 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  141 

head,  and    (4)  cos    lettuce,    with  leaves    straight    and    stiff   and 
forming  a  conical  or  cylindrical  head. 

1.  Is  the  wild  form  of  lettuce  known  ? 

2.  When  does  lettuce  produce  seed? 

3.  What  are  the  types  of  cultivated  lettuce  from  the  botanical 

point  of  view  ? 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  lettuce  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Constructing  the  hotbed. 

6.  Constructing  the  cold  frame. 

7.  INlaking  plant  boxes. 

8.  Making  straw  mats. 

9.  Starting  early  plants. 

10.  Preparing  the  soil. 

11.  Planting  in  the  garden. 

12.  Sowing  in  the  garden. 

13.  Companion  cropping. 

14.  Irrigating. 

15.  Cultivating. 

16.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

17.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

18.  Forcing. 

1.  Why  grow  lettuce  ?  —  Lettuce  is  nearly  always  included  in 
the  planting  of  home  gardens.  It  is  also  grown  on  an  enormous 
scale  for  commercial  purposes.     The  intensive  market  gardeners 


142  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

of  all  sections  of  the  country  have  found  it  profitable,  and  the 
truckers  of  the  South  and  the  muck  farmers  of  the  North  have 
developed  the  industry  to  large  proportions.  For  the  reasons 
just  given,  the  growing  of  lettuce  by  the  student  gardener  or  club 
member  may  not  be  a  promising  financial  proposition.  This 
matter  should  be  carefully  investigated  before  the  growing  of 
lettuce  is  decided  upon  as  a  business  venture.  At  the  same  time 
the  gardener  should  realize  that  the  crop  offers  splendid  business 
inducements  if  a  satisfactory  market  is  assured.  The  fact  that  it 
may  be  matured  so  early  in  the  season  that  other  crops  may  follow, 
and  that  it  may  be  planted  so  closely  together,  appeals  to  village 
gardeners  who  have  only  very  small  areas  under  cultivation.  The 
crop  is  easily  grown  and  its  culture  is  attractive  to  most  vegetable 
growers. 

1.  Is  your  market  well  supplied  with  good  lettuce  ? 

2.  Do  you  think  the  crop  offers  special  opportunities  for  you  ?     If 

so>,  why? 

3.  What  is  the  commercial  importance  of  lettuce? 

W-VG:351.     C:273. 

4.  hi  what  parts  of  the  country  is  lettuce  largely  grown  for  commercial 

purposes ?    W-VG  :  351 .     C  :  273. 

5.  What  do  you  know  about  the  history  of  lettuce?     W-VG  :  351. 

6.  What  are  its  chief  botanical  characteristics  ?   W-VG  :  35 1 .   W :  140. 

7.  How  is  it  generally  served  on  the  table? 

8.  What  is  its  chemical  composition?     Its  food  value? 

2.   Selecting  location.  —  Lettuce  requires  practically  the  same 
soil  conditions  as  celery.  (W :  128.)     An  abundance  of  decaying 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  143 

organic  matter  is  highly  essential  as  is  also  a  liberal  and  constant 
supply  of  soil  moisture.  Soils  naturally  fertile  should  be  selected 
if  possible.  The  sandy  types  are  always  preferred,  and  especially 
for  compact  heading  varieties  which  thrive  only  in  well-aerated 
soils. 

1.  What  are  the  soil  requirements  for  growing  lettuce  ? 

W-VG:355.     C  :  275. 

2.  Have  you  a  favorable  soil  for  growing  this  crop  ? 

3.  Ill  what  parts  of  the  country  is  lettuce  grown  on  muck  soils? 

4.  What  is  the  nature  of  the  soil  in  the  large  greenhouses  where  lettuce 

is  grown  for  market  f     W-VF  :  210. 

5.  Describe  the  soil  conditions  of  the  gardens  in  your  community 

where  the  crop  is  successful. 


3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  Lettuce  growers  should  become 
thoroughly  familiar  with  the  classification  of  varieties  as  de- 
scribed in  W :  140.  In  the  selection  of  varieties,  all  depends  on 
market  demands,  soil  adaptation,  climates  conditions,  and  the 
season  of  the  year  when  the  crop  is  wanted.  In  the  New  England 
and  eastern  states  the  compact  heading  varieties,  and  there  are 
many  good  ones,  are  grown  almost  exclusively,  while  in  western 
sections  the  well-known  loose  heading  variety.  Grand  Rapids,  is 
largely  grown.  So  many  excellent  varieties  are  found  among 
home  and  commercial  growers  that  an  extended  discussion  would  be 
required  to  cover  the  subject  in  a  satisfactory  manner.  Students 
are  urged  to  consult  the  references,  local  gardeners,  seedsmen,  and 
others  who  may  be  familiar  with  the  requirements  of  climate, 
soil,  and  market  of  the  locality. 


144  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  What  varieties  of  lettuce  will  be  most  likely  to  yield  you  the 

largest  profits  ?     What  are  your  reasons  ? 
Consult  markets  and  seed  catalogues. 

2.  How  may  varieties  of  lettuce  he  classified  f 

W-VG  :  351,  354.     C  :  271. 

3.  Which   are   of  the    greatest    commercial    importance?     W-VG: 

353. 

4.  What  do  you  know  about  the  Grand  Rapids  lettuce?     Big  Boston? 

Tennis  Ball?    W-VG  :  353.     W-VF  :  207. 

5.  What  varieties  are  grown  most  extensively  in  muck  soils? 

6.  What  varieties  should  be  selected  for  midsummer  sales? 

7.  What  varieties  do  your  neighbors  grow? 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  All  that  has  been  said  in  previous  project 
discussions  applies  to  the  obtaining  of  lettuce  seed.  The  utmost 
care  should  be  exercised.  Only  reputable  seedsmen  should  be 
patronized.     It  is  also  possible  to  grow  superior  seed  at  home. 

1.  Where  can  you  obtain  good  seed  of  the  varieties  desired? 

2.  Where  do  your  neighbors  buy  seed  ? 

3.  How  would  you  proceed  to  grow  good  seed  at  home  ? 

W-VF :  209. 

5.  Constructing  the  hotbed.  —  Early  plants  may  be  started  in 
hotbeds  in  the  same  manner  as  tomatoes  and  cabbage.     (W :  44.) 

6.  Constructing  the  cold  frame.  —  Early  plants  may  be  trans- 
planted from  the  hotbed  into  a  cold  frame  or  the  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  cold  frame.     (W  :  46.) 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS 


145 


7.  Making  plant  boxes.  —  Paper  plant  boxes,  though  seldom 
used  for  lettuce,  will  be  found  valuable,  especially  if  very  large, 
stocky  plants  are  desired.     (W  :  58.) 

8.  Making  straw  mats.  —  Straw  mats  are  valuable  to'  protect 
plants  in  the  hotbed  or  cold  frame.     (W :  50.) 

9.  Starting  early  plants.  —  Early  lettuce  plants  are  often 
started  under  glass,  when  practically  the  same  methods  are  em- 


FiG.  39.  —  A  well-constructed  cold  frame  containing  a  crop  of  forced  lettuce. 


ployed  as  in  the  growing  of  early  cabbage  plants.  The  seed  is 
generally  sown  somewhat  later  than  early  cabbage.  If  the  seeding 
is  made  about  February  15,  the  plants  should  be  ready  to  set  in 
the  cold  frame  March  5,  and  in  the  field  April  15,  or  a  week 
earlier,  if  the  weather  has  been  warm  and  sunny. 

It  is  important  to  have  plenty  of  humus  in  the  soil  that  is 
used  to  start  early  plants.  It  is  also  desirable  to  be  liberal  in  the 
space  allowed  for  the  plants.  While  good  plants  may  be  grown 
when  set  IfXll  inches  apart  in  the  cold  frame,  2X2  inches  apart 
will  produce  much  stronger  plants  and  it  often  pays  to  allow  the 


146  VEGETABLE   GROWING  PROJECTS 

extra  space,  especially  when  a  very  early  product  is  desired. 
When  assured  of  a  good  price,  we  may  be  more  than  justified  in 
using  paper  pots  for  starting  the  plants.  These  may  be  two  inches 
square.'  They  are  conveniently  handled  by  placing  them  in  flats 
which  may  be  shifted  at  your  convenience. 

1.  How  may  early  lettuce  plants  be  started  under  glass  ? 

W-VG:355.     L:115.     C :  276. 

2.  When  should  the  seed  be  sown  ? 

W-VG:355.     L:115.     C:276. 

10.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  The  instructions  given  for  preparing 
soil  for  celery  (W :  128)  apph'  equally  well  for  lettuce.  The 
student  should  also  refer  to  W :  122.  Any  lack  of  humus,  soil 
moisture,  or  available  plant  food  is  certain  to  affect  the  yield  as 
well  as  the  quality  of  the  crop.  The  maturity  of  the  crop  is  also 
retarded  by  any  unfavorable  soil  condition.  It  is  exceedingly 
important,  therefore,  to  be  most  thorough  in  the  preparation  of 
the  soil  for  this  crop. 

11.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  Lettuce  grows  best  at  compara- 
tively low  temperatures.  For  this  reason  advantage  should  be 
taken  of  the  spring  and  fall  months,  thus  avoiding  as  much  as 
possible  the  hot  weather  of  midsummer,  the  tendency  of  which 
is  to  cause  the  plants  to  produce  seed  shoots  and  loose  leafy  heads 
instead  of  compact  ones.  It  is  desirable,  therefore,  to  set  the 
plants  in  the  open  ground  almost  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  soil 
can  be  prepared.  It  is  generally  safe  in  most  northern  sections 
to  begin  transplanting  into  the  field  about  April  15.  If  the  plants 
have  been  properly  hardened,  they  will  stand  hard  freezing  in  the 
field. 

Planting  distances  for  lettuce  vary  greatly.  Ordinarily  10X12 
inches  apart  give  ample  space  for  the  development  of  good  heads. 
Plants  are  often  set  closer  when  the  most  intensive  methods  are 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS 


147 


148  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

employed,  and  more  space  is  allowed  by  growers  who  need  not 
economize  in  area  and  who,  perhaps,  cultivate  the  crop  with  a 
horse.  The  plants  should  be  shifted  to  the  open  ground  with  the 
least  possible  disturbance  of  the  roots. 

1.  What  temperature  conditions  are  most  suitable  for  growing 

lettuce  ?     W-VG  :  354. 

2.  What  are  the  effects  of  hot  weather  on  lettuce  ?    W-VG  :  354. 

3.  How  far  apart  should  lettuce  be  planted  ? 

W-VG:  357.     L:115.     C  :  275. 

4.  When  should  the  plants  be  set  in  the  open  ground  ?  W-VG  :  357. 


12.  Sowing  in  the  garden.  —  The  great  commercial  areas  of 
lettuce  are  grown  from  seed  sown  in  the  open  ground.  It  is 
customary  to  make  the  rows  twelve  to  fourteen  inches  apart  and 
to  thin  the  plants  to  about  a  foot  apart  in  the  row.  The  seed 
should  be  covered  by  not  more  than  one  fourth  inch  of  soil.  The 
thinning  may  be  done  very  rapidly  with  common  hilling  hoes, 
cutting  out  the  weak  and  surplus  plants. 

1.  Where  is  the  seed  sown  for  the  large  commercial  plantations? 

W-VG :  357. 

2.  What  methods  are  employed  in  sowing  and  thinning,  and  how 

far  apart  should  the  plants  stand  ?       W-VG  :  357.     C  :  277. 


13.  Companion  cropping.  —  Lettuce  is  very  generally  employed 
as  a  companion  crop.  Its  use  with  cabbage  is  described  in  W  :  102. 
Various  combinations  are  given  in  W-VG  :  477,  478,  480,  482,  and 
488. 


SALAD  CROP  PROJECTS  149 

14.  Irrigating.  —  Lettuce,  as  previously  stated,  requires  an 
abundant  and  constant  supply  of  soil  moisture,  and  for  this  reason 
the  crop  is  often  irrigated  with  the  overhead  system  as  described 
in  W :  132  for  celery. 

15.  Cultivating.  —  Lettuce  requires  thorough  tillage,  and  wheel 
hoes  or  horse  cultivators  should  be  used  as  often  as  may  be  neces- 
sary to  keep  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  proper  condition. 

16.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  Lettuce  is  attacked  by 
such  pests  as  slugs,  millipedes,  cutworms,  plant  lice,  webworms, 
and  beetles.  Most  of  these  are  only  occasionally  troublesome,  but 
at  times  may  cause  serious  damage.  Roots  of  lettuce  are  often 
infested  with  small  whitish,  waxy  lice  (lettuce  root  louse)  which 
if  abundant  may  arrest  the  growth  of  the  plant.  Ants  usually 
occur  about  such  colonies  and  may  carry  the  lice  to  the  roots  of 
other  plants. 

Drop  is  one  of  the  most  serious  lettuce  diseases  in  regions 
where  this  crop  is  grown  on  an  extensive  scale.  It  gets  its  com- 
mon name  from  the  dropping  of  the  leaves.  The  outer  leaves 
wilt  and  droop  and  soon  the  whole  plant  collapses  and  lies  flat 
on  the  ground.  The  disease  works  rapidly.  At  first  whitish, 
cotton-like  growths  of  the  fungus  are  noticeable  and  later  small, 
blackish,  irregular  bodies  are  definite  signs  of  the  disease.  Prompt 
destruction  of  diseased  plants  is  recommended.  It  is  well  to 
sprinkle  the  soil  with  Bordeaux  in  areas  where  diseased  plants 
have  appeared  and  have  been  removed.  Several  other  diseases 
caused  by  molds,  mildews,  and  bacteria  may  be  troublesome.  In 
all  cases  attention  to  cultural  conditions  and  sanitation  are  im- 
portant factors  in  control.  Leaving  diseased  plants  in  place  or 
using  compost  contaminated  with  diseased  parts  of  plants  are 
practices  which  tend  to  spread  diseases. 

1.    What  relation  do  ants  bear  to  colonies  of  root  lice  among  which  they 
work?    CL:259. 


150  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

2.  How  does  lettuce  drop  affect  the  plants  f 

SH:  106-198. 

3.  What  practices  are  recommended  for  the  drop  and  other  lettuce 

'9 


17.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  A  great  diversity  of  packages 
are  used  in  marketing  lettuce.  The  ordinary  bushel  basket  is 
gaining  in  popularity,  though  smaller  baskets  of  various  descrip- 
tions are  in  common  use.  The  lettuce  should  be  washed  and 
trimmed  of  all  dead  and  wilted  outside  leaves. 

1.  What  is  the  best  plan  for  you  to  follow  in  marketing  lettuce  ? 

2.  Give  a  description   of  the  various  packages  used  in  marketing 

lettuce. 

W-VG  :  358.     W-VF  :  230.     Inspect  your  market. 

3.  How  is  the  greenhouse  crop  sold?    W-VF  :  230-233. 

18.  Forcing.  —  An  immense  quantity  of  lettuce  is  grown  in 
greenhouses  and  cold  frames.  Students  will  find  a  complete 
discussion  of  this  subject  in  W-VF :  204-234,  387-396,  403-404. 

When  the  crop  is  grown  in  cold  frames,  the  soil  is  made  very 
rich  and  the  plants  are  set  about  8X8  inches  apart. 


CHAPTER  FIVE 

VINE   CROP   PROJECTS 

Cucumber,  Muskmelon,  Watermelon,  Squash,  Pumpkin 

The  vine  or  cucurbitaceoiis  group  of  vegetables  inckides  the 
cucumber,  muskmelon,  watermelon,  squash,  and  pumpkin.  While 
they  are  classed  as  "tender  "  vegetables,  they  var}^  greatly  in 
their  temperature  requirements.  The  cucumber,  pumpkin,  and 
squash  are  grown  with  entire  success  even  in  the  coolest  parts  of 
the  North,  while  the  muskmelon  and  especially  the  watermelon 
are  exacting  in  their  requirements,  especially  with  regard  to  soil. 
The  cucumber  and  early  varieties  of  squash  mature  with  com- 
paratively short  summers,  but  the  muskmelon,  watermelon,  and 
pumpkin  require  fairly  long  seasons,  as  do  late  varieties  of  squash. 

All  of  the  cucurbits  thrive  in  sandy  loams,  and,  wherever 
climatic  conditions  are  unfavorable,  liberal  applications  of  well- 
decayed  stable  manure  are  highly  advantageous. 

Project  VIII.     Growing  Cucumbers 

The  cucumber  belongs  to  the  gourd  family.  The  members  of 
this  family  are  often  referred  to  as  cucurbits,  a  word  derived  from 
the  botanical  name  of  the  family.  There  are  about  650  species  in 
the  family,  found  mostly  in  the  tropics.  The  cultivated  species 
are  warm  weather  crops  and  are  easily  injured  by  frost.  Other 
well-known  plants  of  this  family  are  the  pumpkin,  squash,  water- 
melon, and  muskmelon.     The  cucumber  is  a  native  of  Asia  and 

151 


152  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Egypt.     It  lias  been  under  cultivation  there  for  more  than  3000 
years.     It  is  not  known  in  the  wild  state. 

The  cucumber  plant  is  an  annual  with  rough  trailing  stems, 
more  or  less  branched,  and  often  of  considerable  length.  The 
leaves  are  simple  and  somewhat  five-lobed.  The  flowers  are  yellow. 
The  fruit  is  known  as  a  pepo,  a  fruit  with  hard  rind  and  seeds  im- 
mersed in  a  pulpy  interior.  The  rind  is  not  separable,  does  not 
break  open  at  maturity,  and,  although  rough  and  spiny  when 
young,  sometimes  becomes  smooth.  Common  cucumbers  are 
divided  into  white  spine  varieties  and  black  spine  varieties. 
There  is  an  English  forcing  cucumber  which  produces  seedless 
fruit  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  flowers  set  fruit  without  being 
fertilized.  Small  cucumbers  are  often  used  as  gherkins,  but  there 
is  a  genuine  gherkin  belonging  to  a  different  species,  a  native  of 
the  West  Indies.  There  seems  to  be  a  popular  idea  that  the 
cucumber  and  melon  may  be  crossed,  but  experiments  have  not 
shown  this  to  be  true. 

1.  To  what  family  does  the  cucumber  belong  f 

2.  What  term  is  used  to  refer  to  members  of  this  family? 

3.  What  kind  of  weather  is  favorable  to  the  cucumber? 


4.  What  character  is  used  in  dividing  common  cucumbers  into  two 

groups? 

5.  How  are  seedless  cucumbers  produced? 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Win  cucumbers  pay  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  153 

5.  Starting  early  plants. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil. 

7.  Transplanting  in  the  garden. 

8.  Planting  seed  in  the  garden. 

9.  Companion  cropping. 

10.  Cultivating. 

11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

13.  Forcing. 

1.  Will  cucumbers  pay  ?  —  Whether  they  pay  or  not  will  de- 
pend mainly  on  two  factors,  namely,  whether  you  have  suitable 
conditions  for  the  growing  of  cucumbers,  and  whether  your  mar- 
ket is  generally  well  supplied  with  this  vegetable.  When  consider- 
ing the  commercial  possibilities  of  this  crop,  we  should  also  bear 
in  mind  that  a  fairly  large  area  is  required  in  order  to  grow  a  con- 
siderable quantity,  and  for  this  reason  it  is  not  a  suitable  vege- 
table for  cultivation  on  a  very  large  plot  which  is  expected  to 
yield  maximum  financial  returns.  In  other  words,  it  is  necessarily 
more  of  a  field  proposition  and  should  have  serious  consideration 
wherever  cultural  conditions  are  favorable,  provided  there  is  a 
promising  market.  There  is  usually  a  good  demand  for  small 
pickling  sizes.  The  crop  is  easily  grown  and  does  not  require  a 
large  amount  of  labor. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  select  cucumbers  for  your  home  project? 

2.  Do  you  have  a  suitable  location?    W-VG  :  332.     L :  217. 

3.  Is  your  market  well  supplied  with  cucumbers  ? 

4.  Is  it  a  desirable  crop  for  intensive  cultivation  on  a  small  area  ? 

5.  What  are  the  labor  requirements  of  this  crop  ? 


154  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  W  :  151,  153.  The  cucumber  is  not  only 
sensitive  to  frost  but  extreme  heat  with  a  lack  of  abundant  mois- 
ture is  also  unfavorable  to  its  best  development.  It  is  grown 
very  largely  in  many  parts  of  the  South  for  shipment  to  northern 
markets,  and  immense  quantities  are  produced  in  certain  sections 
of  the  North  for  pickling  purposes.  In  addition  to  supplying 
these  demands,  it  is  grown  locally  for  perhaps  every  market  in 
the  United  States. 

The  early  crop  makes  most  rapid  advancement  in  light,  sandy 
soils,  while  late  cucumbers  bear  longer  and  yield  better  in  the  fairly 
heavy  soils.  Any  deficiency  in  plant  food  or  soil  moisture  is 
certain  to  affect  the  growth  of  the  plants  as  well  as  their  ability 
to  produce  a  good  crop.  It  is  desirable,  therefore,  to  select  a 
relatively  fertile  soil,  though  the  proper  treatment  of  soils  of 
average  fertility  should  result  in  a  satisfactory  crop  of  cucumbers 
if  all  other  cultural  requirements  are  met. 

1.  What  are  the  temperature  and  climatic  requirements  of  the 

cucumber?     W-VG  :  331.     L  :  236. 

2.  What  kind  of  soil  is  best  for  early  cucumbers  ?     For  late  ? 

W-VG  :  332.     C  :  233. 

3.  Describe  the  soil  and  location  on  your  farm  which  you  consider 

suitable  for  cucumbers. 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  Most  varieties  of  cucumbers  grown  in 
American  gardens  have  originated  from  an  old  and  well-known 
variety,  the  White  Spine.  This  variety  is  sold  by  all  seedsmen,  as 
well  as  numerous  varieties  originated  from  it,  such  as  the  Chicago 
Pickling,  Boston  Pickling,  and  Fordhook  Pickling. 

1.   What  is  the  most  important  variety  grown  in  the  United  States  ? 
W-VG  :  331.     Seed  catalogues. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  155 

2.  What  other  varieties  are  largely  grown  ? 

W-VG  :  331.     Seed  catalogues. 

3.  "What  variety  will  you  grow  ? 

4.  What  is  the  history  of  the  cucumber  f     W-VG  :  330.     C  :  230. 

5.  What  are  the  chief  districts  where  cucumbers  are  grown  for  pickling 

or  for  marketing?     W-VG  :  331. 

6.  What  varieties  are  planted  for  forcing  purposes?     W-VF  :  302. 

7.  What  varieties  should  be  selected  for  very  small  pickles? 

8.  What   are   the   chief  botanical   characteristics  of  the  cucumber? 

W-VG:  331.    C:230. 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  It  is  not  generally  difficult  to  obtain 
seed  for  the  outdoor  crop  of  cucumbers  from  the  best-known  seeds- 
men. The  growers  of  greenhouse  cucumbers  generally  select  their 
own  seed  from  special  plants,  and  by  this  means  a  high  standard 
of  excellence  is  maintained.  A  considerable  number  of  truckers 
also  save  home-grown  seed,  which  is  not  a  difficult  matter  if  the 
general  principles  and  practices  are  observed  as  explained  for 
tomatoes  in  W  :  43. 

1.  Where  can  you  obtain  good  cucumber  seed? 

Consult  growers.     Seed  catalogues. 

2.  Is  it  desirable  to  select  your  own  seed  ?     If  so,  give  directions. 

W-VF :  306-308. 

3.  Where  should  the  seed  be   stored?     How  long  will  it  retain 

its  vitality  ? 

4.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  ? 


156  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

5.  Starting  early  plants.  —  Earliness  is  an  exceedingly  impor- 
tant factor  in  making  cucumbers  pay.  It  is  so  important  that 
many  growers  start  at  least  a  portion  of  their  plants  under  glass. 
This  may  be  done  in  a  greenhouse,  or  hotbed,  and  even  a  cold 
frame  may  be  used  to  advantage,  although  artificial  heat  is  essential 
if  good  plants  are  wanted  for  setting  in  the  open  ground  as  soon 
as  weather  conditions  will  permit.  The  night  temperature  in  the 
greenhouse  or  hotbed  should  not  be  less  than  60°  and  the  day 
temperature  at  least  10°  higher. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  about  four  weeks  in  advance  of  the 
date  when  it  is  considered  the  plants  may  be  safely  transferred 
to  the  garden.  In  most  parts  of  the  North,  it  is  not  safe  to  set  the 
plants  out  before  May  10  to  May  20  and  ten  days  later  in 
some  sections.  This  means,  of  course,  that  the  weather  will  be 
comparatively  mild  during  the  growing  of  the  plants  and  that 
it  will  be  unnecessary  to  make  provision  for  very  much  heat 
in  the  hotbed.  A  hotbed  containing  only  a  foot  of  hot  ma- 
nure should  be  satisfactory  for  this  purpose  in  all  parts  of  the 
North. 

Two  methods  are  employed  in  starting  the  plants.  One,  which 
is  the  most  common  among  market  gardeners,  is  to  plant  six  to 
eight  seeds  in  a  three  or  four  inch  earthen  or  paper  pot  (W :  58) 
and  then  thin  to  two  to  four  strong  plants.  The  other  plan  is 
to  sow  the  seed  in  flats  or  beds,  barely  cover  them,  and  then 
transplant,  when  the  seedlings  are  about  a  week  old,  to  pots  or 
other  devices.  The  second  plan  is  used  extensively  by  green- 
house growers  of  cucumbers,  but  with  good  management  either 
plan  is  satisfactory.  Sometimes  the  plants  are  started  in  berry 
baskets,  or  in  tough,  inverted  sods,  cut  into  squares  of  about  six 
inches. 

Watering  must  have  careful  attention,  for  either  overwatering 
or  insufficient  soil  moisture  may  be  disastrous  to  the  plants.  The 
soil  should  be  light  and  fertile. 


VINE  CHOP  PROJECTS  157 

1.  What  importance  should  be  given  to  earliness  in  the  growing 

of  cucumbers  in  the  North  for  local  market  ? 

2.  What  temperatures  are  required  in  the  growing  of  early  plants  ? 

W-VG  :  333.     C  :  233. 

3.  How  may  the  plants  be  started  ?     W-VG  :  332.     L  :  223. 

4.  When  should  the  seed  be  sown  ? 

6.   How  should  the  hotbed  be  made  for  starting  early  cucumber 
plants  ?    W  :  156. 

6.   Describe  the  soil  which  will  be  most  suitable  for  starting  the 
plants. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  There  are  probably  very  few  soils 
if  well  drained,  where  cucumbers  cannot  be  grown  with  entire 
success.  The  matter  of  good  drainage  should  be  emphasized.  It 
is  also  important  for  the  soil  to  be  well  supplied  with  humus  and 
plant  food. 

Heavy  clover  sods,  plowed  down  as  early  as  possible  in  the  spring, 
furnish  ideal  physical  conditions,  and  such  soils  are  usually  rich 
in  nitrogen.  The  land  may  be  of  such  a  character  that  it  will 
be  unnecessary  to  apply  manure  in  any  considerable  amount, 
although  this  is  unlikely.  The  most  successful  growers  do  not 
take  chances  in  this  matter,  and  for  this  reason  they  use  rotten 
manure  as  liberally  as  the  supply  will  permit.  Manure  should  be 
applied  in  the  hills  or  in  drills.  A  large  shovelful  or  two  in  each 
hill  will  be  found  highly  beneficial.  Perhaps  manure  may  be 
so  plentiful  that  three  or  four  shovelfuls  may  be  applied  in  each 
hill  and  mixed  with  the  soil.  In  some  sections  cucumbers  are 
planted  in  drills  and  in  this  event  the  manure  should  be  distributed 
in  furrows  opened  with  a  plow,  some  soil  being  plow^ed  back  on 
the  manure  and  mixed  with  a  cultivator  before  drilling  in  the 


158  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

seed.  Whatever  the  plan  followed,  there  should  be  no  uncer- 
tainty about  using  the  required  amount  of  manure. 

Commercial  fertilizers  may  also  be  used  to  advantage.  If  the 
soil  is  naturally  very  fertile,  or  if  stable  manure  has  been  used  with 
great  freedom,  an  excellent  crop  of  cucumbers  may  be  grown  with- 
out supplementing  with  commercial  fertilizers.  It  is  rarely,  how- 
ever, that  the  use  of  fertilizers  will  not  increase  the  profits. 

When  a  very  early  crop  is  desired,  the  use  of  nitrate  of  soda 
may  be  a  distinct  advantage.  It  should  be  applied  at  the  rate  of 
about  a  tablespoonful  mixed  very  thoroughly  in  each  hill  before 
the  crop  is  planted.  Top  dressing  with  nitrate  of  soda  during  the 
period  of  growth  may  be  beneficial,  but  excessive  amounts  should 
be  avoided,  or  the  plants  may  be  injured.  A  teaspoonful  of  nitrate 
sprinkled  around  each  hill  at  intervals  of  about  three  weeks  will 
probably  be  as  much  as  can  be  used  with  safety. 

It  is  also  highly  probable  that  the  use  of  500  to  700  pounds  of 
acid  phosphate  to  the  acre  will  add  to  the  profits  of  the  crop. 
Potash,  at  normal  prices,  may  also  be  profitable.  Both  of  these 
mineral  elements  should  be  applied  after  the  land  has  been 
plowed  and  then  mixed  with  the  soil  by  thorough  harrowing. 
W :  63. 

1.  What  may  be  said  about  drainage  in  relation  to  growing  cucum- 

bers ? 

2.  What  crop  or  crops  should  precede  the  cucumber? 

3.  Should  stable  manure  be  employed  in  growing  cucumbers? 

If  so,  how  much,  and  how  and  when  should  it  be  used? 
W-VG :  333. 

4.  Do  you  recommend  the  use  of  commercial  fertilizers?     If  so, 

what  kind  and  how  and  when  should  they  be  applied  ? 
W-VG  :  333.     C  :  233. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  159 

5.  What  relation,  if  any,  has  the  character  of  cucumber  roots  to  the 

preparatory  treatment  of  the  kmdf 

6.  What  is   the  chemical  composition  of  the  different  parts  of  the 

cucumber  plant? 

7.  Does  your  particular  soil  need  lime  for  growing  cucumbers? 

8.  How  do  the  market  gardeners  of  your  'community  treat  their  soils 

for  the  growing  of  cucumbers  ? 

7.  Transplanting  into  the  garden.  —  Every  possible  effort  should 
be  made  to  have  the  soil  fine  and  moist  at  the  time  the  plants 
are  transferred  from  the  hotbed  to  the  open  ground.  If  the  soil 
is  in  proper  condition,  there  should  be  no  loss  of  plants  due  to 
transplanting. 

The  proper  time  to  set  the  plants  in  the  open  ground  is  wholly 
a  local  question.  We  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  cucumber  is 
easily  injured  by  frost,  and  that  no  amount  of  hardening  in  the 
hotbed  or  cold  frame  will  enable  the  plants  to  withstand  it.  Each 
grower  should  make  careful  inquiry  among  old  residents  and  ascer- 
tain the  date  when  it  is  probably  safe  to  plant  in  the  field. 

The  plants  should  be  taken  from  the  pots  with  the  least  possible 
disturbance  of  the  roots.  Holes  for  the  balls  of  earth  should 
be  made  amply  large  and  the  soil  should  be  pressed  gently 
around  the  balls  of  earth  so  that  they  will  not  be  broken. 

Planting  distances  for  cucumbers  are  extremely  variable ;  5X5 
feet  apart  is  practically  always  satisfactory,  even  in  the  most 
fertile  soils,  and  in  thin,  light  soils  less  space  may  be  allowed. 

1.  When  should  pot-grown  cucumber  plants  be  transferred  to  the 

open  ground  ?     W-VG  :  334.     C  :  232. 

2.  Give  specific  directions  for  setting  pot-grown  plants. 

W-VG  :  334.     C  :  232. 


160  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  At  what  distances  do  you  think  you  should  set  your  plants  ? 

W-VG  :  334.     C  :  233. 

4.  Make  a  thorough  study  of  the  roots  of  the  cucumber. 

8.  Planting  seed  in  the  garden.  —  The  bulk  of  the  cucumber 
crop  is  grown  from  seed,  sown  in  the  open  ground.  The  soil 
should  be  properly  prepared  as  explained  in  W :  157  and  the  seed 
planted  at  the  distances  suggested  in  W  :  156. 

Inasmuch  as  the  seed  does  not  germinate  for  several  days  after 
it  has  been  planted,  it  may  be  placed  in  the  hills  or  drills  probably 
a  week  earlier  than  it  is  desirable  to  set  the  hotbed  grown  plants 
in  the  open  ground.  Another  factor  to  be  considered  in  this 
connection  is  that  the  expense  of  starting  a  second  lot  of  plants  in 
hills  is  so  slight  that  growers  often  take  chances,  and  if  the  first 
lot  is  destroyed  a  second  sowing  is  made.  The  seed  need  not  be 
covered  with  more  than  half  an  inch  of  soil.  After  the  plants  are 
well  started,  they  must  be  thinned  to  three  or  four  in  each  hill. 

1.  When  should  cucumber  seed  be  planted  in  the  open  ground? 

W-VG:  334.     C  :  233. 

2.  How  many  seeds  should  be  planted  in  each  hill  and  how  deep 

should  they  be  covered  ? 
V^-VG:334.     C :  233. 

3.  When  should  the  plants  be  thinned  and  how  many  should  be 

left  in  each  hill  ?     W-YG  :  334.     C  :  233. 

4.  Do  the  growers  of  your  community  start  their  plants  under  glass 

or  sow  seed  in  the  open  ground  f 

5.  Study  the  germijiation  of  the  cucumber  seed  before  making  the  main 

planting  in  the  hotbed  or  garden. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  161 

9.  Companion  cropping.  —  The  cucumber  is  not  extensively 
grown  as  a  companion  crop  with  other  vegetables.  Perhaps  the 
bean  is  grown  with  it  more  generally  than  any  other  vegetable. 
There  may  be  advantages  in  doing  this,  for  rows  of  bush  beans 
alternating  with  rows  of  cucumbers  furnish  considerable  protec- 
tion to  the  young  cucumber  plants.  This  vegetable  is  not  only 
injured  or  killed  by  frost,  but  it  is  greatly  checked  in  growth  by 
cold  winds.  The  beans  grow  very  rapidly  so  that  they  soon  make 
quite  an  effective  windbreak  for  the  small  cucumber  plants. 
Again,  the  beans  will  be  harvested  and  the  plants  may  be  removed 
before  they  interfere  in  any  way  with  the  development  of  the  cu- 
cumber crop.  If  there  is  more  than  a  five-foot  space  between  the 
rows  of  cucumbers,  it  may  be  possible  to  intercrop  with  two  rows 
of  bush  beans.  Sweet  corn  may  also  be  grown  between  cucumbers, 
and  the  partial  shade  seems  to  be  favorable  to  the  cucumbers. 

1.    Do  you  think  it  ivould  pay  you  to  grow  beans  between  the  cucumber 


2.    Do  you  know  of  other  crops  that  might  be  grown  with  the  cucumber? 

10.  Cultivating.  —  The  cucumber  should  receive  thorough 
tillage.  Some  hoeing  and  hand  weeding  are  generally  necessary 
in  and  about  the  hills.     W :  68. 

1.  What  implements  will  you  need  to  cultivate  the  cucumbers  ? 

2.  How  often  should  the  cucumbers  be  cultivated? 

11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.— CL :  109-140.  The  cu- 
curbits probably  suffer  from  insects  more  than  almost  any  other 
group  of  plants.  From  the  time  the  seed  is  planted  until  ma- 
turity, the  crop  is  continually  threatened  by  insects,  many  of 
which  are  very  difficult  to  combat:     In  most  instances  only  those 


162  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

remedies  are  useful  which  render  the  plant  distasteful,  as  the 
pests  cannot  be  killed  by  the  usual  spraying  practices. 

The  striped  cucumber  beetle  is  the  familiar  small  yellow  striped 
beetle  which  appears  about  the  time  the  tender  cucumber,  squash, 
or  melon  leaves  push  through  the  ground.  The  beetles  feed 
voraciously  on  the  young  cotyledons,  which  if  left  unprotected 
will  be  entirely  destroyed.  After  satisfying  their  hunger,  the 
adults  deposit  their  light  yellow  eggs  in  the  ground.  The  larvae 
hatch  in  about  one  week  and  work  down  the  stem  or  under  the 
vines,  burrowing  into  the  tissue,  sometimes  completely  riddling 
the  stem  just  below  the  ground.  When  mature  the  grubs  enter 
the  soil  and  in  late  summer  the  beetles  emerge  to  feed  on  wild 
plants  until  cold  weather  begins.  As  a  means  of  control,  Bordeaux 
mixture  is  a  good  repellent.  Garden  plots  can  be  protected  with 
cheesecloth.     Arsenical  poisons  are  not  effective. 

Cucurbits  and  melons  are  subject  to  several  diseases  which 
may  be  limiting  factors  in  the  production  of  the  crop.  Of  these 
diseases  the  bacterial  wilt,  anthracnose,  and  mosaic  are  the  most 
important. 

Bacterial  wilt  is  a  disease  caused  by  bacteria  which  are  spread 
by  the  striped  cucumber  beetles.  The  young  plants  droop  and 
die  within  a  few  days  after  being  attacked.  Spraying  the  plants 
with  lead  arsenate  powder,  one  half  pound  or  one  pound  of  the 
paste  form  to  ten  gallons  of  water,  will  protect  the  plants  from 
the  beetles  and  thus  indirectly  prevent  the  disease. 

Anthracnose  attacks  leaves,  stems,  and  fruits  and  is  often  seen 
on  the  fruits  when  they  reach  the  market.  A  definite  sunken 
spot  is  produced  which  enlarges  slowly  until  the  rind  is  penetrated 
when  a  soft  rot  sets  in  and  the  entire  fruit  decays.  The  disease 
may  be  carried  on  the  seed  and  therefore  disinfecting  the  seed  for 
five  minutes  in  formaldehyde  (1  teaspoonful  to  1  pint  water)  is  ad- 
visable. Spraying  the  plants  with  4-4-50  Bordeaux  is  necessary 
to  control  the  disease  in  the  field.     Rotation  should  be  practiced. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  163 

Mosaic  or  "  White  Pickle  "  is  a  disease  which  causes  a  dwarfing 
and  yellow  mottling  of  the  leaves  and  fruits.  Infected  plants 
produce  few  if  any  fruits.  Removing  and  destroying  the  diseased 
plants  as  soon  as  they  appear  and  dusting  the  patch  with  equal 
parts  of  tobacco  and  lime  or  spraying  with  nicotine  sulphate  (1 
teaspoonful  to  1  gallon  of  water)  to  control  the  aphids  will  tend 
to  keep  this  disease  from  spreading. 

1.  Why  is  the  beetle  so  injurious  to  young  plants?     CL  :  110. 

2.  Where  do  the  larvas  ivorkf     CL  :  109-110. 

3.  What  is  its  life  history?     CL:  110-111. 

4.  Describe  three  control  practices.     CL  :  111-112. 

5.  What  other  beetles  affect  the  cucumber?     CL  :  113-115,  133. 

6.  How  is  the  bacterial  wilt  spread?     SH  :  182. 

7.  JVhat  parts  are  attacked  by  anthracnose  and  what  are  the  most 

characteristic  symptoms  f     SH  :  180-181. 

8.  How  may  mosaic  be  diagnosed   in  the  field?     What   are   the 

approved  methods  of  combating  it  ? 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Cucumbers  should  be  har- 
vested whenever  they  have  attained  a  size  wanted  by  your  market. 
Sometimes  such  a  good  price  can  be  obtained  for  the  very  small 
pickles  that  it  does  not  pay  to  allow  them  to  grow  to  any  consid- 
erable size.  However,  the  early  market  generally  wants  large 
cucumbers  and  good  prices  are  paid  for  them,  and  the  small 
pickles  are  produced  and  sold  later  in  the  summer  or  perhaps  in  the 
early  fall. 

It  pays  to  grade  cucumbers  and  to  pack  them  in  clean,  attractive 
packages.     They  may  be  sold  by  the  dozen,  by  the  hundred,  or 


164  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

perhaps  by  the  bushel.  Growers  should  investigate  the  markets 
to  be  supplied  and  try  to  improve  on  the  methods  commonly  em- 
ployed. 

1.  At  what  stage  of  development  should  cucumbers  be  harvested 

for  your  market  ?     C  :  239. 

2.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grade  your  cucumbers  ?     If  so,  how  ?     C  :  239. 

3.  What  packages  should  you  use  ?     C  :  239. 

4.  How  many  packages  will  you  need  to  market  your  crop  ? 

5.  What  should  an  acre  of  cucumbera  yield  in  bushels  and  in  dollars? 

W-VG :  336. 

6.  Is  it  more  profitable  to  grow  small  pickles  than  large,  early  cucum- 

bers f 

7.  What  recipes  might  he  used  in  pickling  cucumbers  of  different 

sizes f 

8.  What  is  the  nutritive  value  of  cucumbers?     How  may  they  be 

served  other  than  as  pickles? 

13.  Forcing.  —  The  cucumber  is  very  largely  grown  in  American 
and  English  greenhouses.  Students  who  are  interested  will  find 
a  complete  discussion  of  the  subject  in  W-VF :  300-345. 

Project  IX.     Growing  Muskmelons 

The  muskmelon  is  one  of  the  cucurbits  belonging  to  the  same 
genus  as  the  cucumber.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  native  of  East 
India.  The  plants  are  annual  trailing  herbs.  Melons  are  true 
fruits.  They  vary  considerably  in  shape  and  size.  The  fruit  is 
botanically  known  as  a  pepo.     This  name  applies  to  all  fruits  of 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  165 

the  gourd  family.  The  outer  rind  is  hard  and  the  inner  portion 
is  softer  and  edible.  There  are  several  rather  well-defined  bo- 
tanical varieties  of  muskmelons,  based  largely  on  the  character 
of  the  fruits.  Netted  melons'  include  the  common  muskmelons. 
They  are  shallow-ribbed  melons.  The  skin  is  usually  netted,  al- 
though sometimes  almost  smooth.  The  flesh  may  be  green  or 
salmon  tinted.  Cantaloupes  or  Rock  melons  are  deeply  furrowed 
or  ribbed,  have  hard  rinds,  and  are  more  or  less  scaly  or  warty. 
The  so-called  Rocky  Ford  Cantaloupes  do  not  belong  here ;  they 
are  netted  melons.  Pineapple  melons  are  similar  to  the  netted 
melons,  differing  chiefly  in  their  oblong  shape.  Snake  melons 
have  fruits  many  times  longer  than  broad,  greenish  when  ripe,  and 
curved  and  furrowed. 

1 .  What  garden  crops  are  very  close  relatives  of  the  muskmelon  ? 

2.  What  is  the  character  of  the  melon  fruit  f 

3.  Upon  what  characters  are  the  botanical  varieties  of  melons  largely 

based? 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Will  muskmelons  pay  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Starting  early  plants. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil. 

7.  Transplanting  into  the  garden. 

8.  -Planting  seed  in  the  garden. 

9.  Companion  cropping. 

10.  Cultivating. 

11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  ^ 


166  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  Will  muskmelons  pay  ?  —  Muskmelons  of  high  quality  nearly 
always  command  good  prices.  Now  and  then  we  find  a  commercial 
grower  who  almost  invariably  produces  muskmelons  of  superior 
merit,  and  in  all  such  instances  the  demand  far  exceeds  the  supply. 
Consumers  are  constantly  seeking  melons  of  high  quality  and  any 
producer  who  can  grow  them  need  not  worry  about  a  market. 

The  production  of  muskmelons  as  a  business  proposition  should 
not  be  undertaken  unless  the  grower  is  assured  that  he  has  favorable 
conditions  for  the  growing  of  good  melons.  If  he  has  this  assurance 
there  is  no  reason  why  he  should  not  make  a  business  venture 
with  this  crop.  However,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
production  of  muskmelons  is  considered  a  more  difficult  proposi- 
tion than  the  growing  of  cucumbers,  but  it  is  also  more  fascinat- 
ing, especially  when  the  fruits  attain  the  edible  stage. 

1.  What   can  be  said  about  the  demand  for  high-grade  musk- 

melons ? 

2.  Do  you  think  it  would  pay  you  to  grow  muskmelons? 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  We  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  musk- 
melon  is  tender  to  cold  and  that  we  should  select  areas,  if  possible, 
well  protected  from  the  prevailing  wands.  With  few  exceptions, 
the  large  commercial  plantations  are  made  on  sandy  or  gravelly 
soils  because  they  are  warmer  and  more  favorable  to  the  culture 
of  this  crop.  Muskmelons  may  be  grown  with  entire  success  in 
thousands  of  localities  in  the  North  where  there  are  sandy  areas, 
and  many  other  soil  types  may  be  treated  so  as  to  grow  at  least  fair 
crops. 

1.   What  are  the  most  important  factors  in  selecting  a  location  for 
the  growing  of  muskmelons  ? 
W  :  166.    W-VG  :  363,  364.    L :  220. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  167 

2.  Arc  muskmclons  grown  in  your  neighbor  hood  f     If  6*o,  on  what 

kind  of  soil?     What  is  the  exposure?     Is  there  any  protection 
from  prevailing  winds? 

3.  Where  are  muskmelons  most  largely  grown  in  the   United  States? 

C :  294. 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  There  are  so  many  varieties  of  musk- 
melons that  it  is  usually  a  perplexing  question  to  decide  which 
ones  will  be  most  likely  to  give  satisfactory  results.  The  expe- 
rience of  local  gardeners,  if  they  grow  muskmelons,  should  prove 
exceedingly  helpful.  Certain  types  often  prove  most  valuable 
for  a  given  district.  This  whole  problem  should  be  investigated 
very  carefully  before  any  decision  is  made.  It  will  be  found  in 
W-VG :  361-363  that  there  are  numerous  types  and  these  vary 
greatly  in  size,  shape,  markings,  and  color  and  quality  of  flesh. 
Among  the  varieties  most  largely  grown  may  be  mentioned  Rocky 
Ford,  Emerald  Gem,  Montreal,  Paul  Rose,  and  Osage  or  Miller's 
Cream.  The  last-named  variety  is  excellent  for  the  local  markets 
of  most  parts  of  the  North. 

1.  What  varieties  of  melons  do  you  think  should  be  planted  for 

your  local  market?     What  are  your  reasons  for  selecting 
them?     W-VG :  361-363. 

2.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  the  muskmelon?    W-VG  :  360. 

3.  What  are  its  chief  botanical  characteristics  ?  W-VG :  360.   W :  164. 

4.  Name  the  most  important  types  and  the  leading  varieties  of  each 

type.     W-VG:  361.     C  :  297. 

5.  Secure  samples  of  as  m,any  varieties  as  possible  and  classify  them. 

How  do  they  differ  in  color,  texture,  and  quality  of  flesh? 


168  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  The  utmost  care  should  be  exercised  in 
purchasing  or  selecting  seed.  It  is  easily  possible  to  make  a  com- 
plete failure  in  the  growing  of  a  good  crop  by  the  use  of  poor  seed. 


1.  Where  can  you  purchase  good  muskmelon  seed  ? 

2.  How  would  you  proceed  to  grow  and  select  your  own  seed? 

W-VG :  364. 

5.  Starting  early  plants.  —  Early  muskmelon  plants  may  be 
started  under  glass  in  the  same  manner  as  early  cucumber  plants. 
W :  156. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  The  preparation  of  soil  for  musk- 
melons  does  not  differ  essentially  from  the  preparation  of  soil 
for  cucumbers,  though  it  may  be  necessary  to  exercise  more  care 
where  the  soil  and  climatic  conditions  are  not  naturally  favorable 
for  muskmelons.  In  the  small  home  garden  we  may  go  to  the 
trouble  of  mixing  sand  with  manure  in  the  hills  so  as  to  provide 
the  best  physical  condition.     W  :  52. 

7.  Transplanting  into  the  garden.  —  Pot-grown  plants  are  trans- 
planted into  the  open  ground  in  the  same  manner  as  cucumbers, 
but  more  space  should  be  allowed;  6X6  feet  apart  is  the  most 
common  distance  for  the  planting  of  muskmelons.     W  :  159. 

8.  Planting  in  the  garden.  —  Seed  may  be  planted  in  the  garden  in 
the  same  manner  as  cucumbers  except  that  the  hills  should  be  about 
6X6  feet  apart.    W:156.   W-VG  :  370-373.   L  :  220-223.    C  :  295. 

9.  Companion  cropping.  —  Any  system  of  companion  cropping 
suitable  for  cucumbers  will  be  found  equally  satisfactory  for  musk- 
melons.    W:161. 

10.  Cultivating. — The.  muskmelon  requires  thorough  tillage 
until  the  crop  is  well  advanced. 

1.   What  kind  of  tillage  would  you  recommend  for  muskmelons? 
W-VG :  373. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  169 

11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  Melon  vines  are  visited 
by  a  small  black  louse  (melon  aphis)  which  curls  the  leaves,  causes 
the  fruit  to  ripen  prematurely,  and  makes  it  worthless.  If  left 
unchecked  the  lice  may  eventually  ruin  an  entire  crop  in  a  very 
few  days.  The  life  history  of  this  species  is  not  well  understood, 
but  as  it  feeds  on  a  number  of  wild  plants,  these  probably  are  the 
centers  from  which  it  is  distributed  to  the  field.  The  pest  has  a 
large  number  of  natural  enemies  which  under  favorable  circum- 
stances may  check  its  increase.  Fumigation  of  young  plants  is 
one  means  of  control,  and  spraying  with  nicotine  soap  solution 
is  a  practical  remedy  in  large  fields. 

Diseases  may  also  cause  considerable  loss,  and  to  guard  against 
their  ravages  some  growers  spray  systematically  with  Bordeaux 
mixture. 

1.  Why  is  the  melon  aphis  a  dangerous  pest?    CL :  136. 

2.  Does  it  have  any  insect  enemies?     CL :  136-137. 

3.  What  are  the  principal  control  measures? 

CL:  137-138.    W-VG  :  376. 

4.  What  are  the   most  serious   diseases  and  what   steps  should   he 

taken  to  control  them? 
W-VG  :  376.    L :  229.     C  :  296-297. 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  The  quality  of  muskmelons 
will  be  sacrificed  unless  they  are  fully  ripe  when  harvested.  Some 
experience  is  necessary  in  order  to  avoid  making  too  many  mistakes 
by  premature  picking.  The  stems  begin  to  separate  from  the 
fruit  when  ripe.  In  the  marketing  of  high-grade  fruits,  there  is  an 
opportunity  to  resort  to  practice  that  will  make  the  melons  doubly 
attractive  to  both  dealers  and  consumers.  Some  growers  take 
the  pains  to  wrap  each  specimen  in  waxed  tissue  paper  and  to 
market  the  melons  in  fancy  packages. 


170  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  When  should  muskmelons  be  picked?     What  effect  has  pre- 

mature picking  on  the  quality  of  the  fruit?     How  can  you 
tell  when  a  melon  is  ripe  ?     W-VG  :  373-375. 

2.  How  should  the  fruits  be  graded  for  market  ?     C  :  298. 

3.  What  should  be  the  yield  of  muskmelons  to  the  acre?    W-VG  :  376 

Project  X.     Growing  Watermelons 

The  watermelon  is  a  member  of  the  gourd  or  cucurbit  family 
but  belongs  to  a  group  quite  separate  from  the  muskmelons.  The 
plants  are  coarse;  the  stems  are  hairy,  angular,  and  somewhat 
branching ;  the  leaves  are  lobed  and  the  flowers  greenish  yellow 
The  fruit  varies  in  shape  and  size.  It  may  in  some  forms  reach 
a  weight  of  twenty-five  pounds.  The  rind  varies  in  thickness 
and  is  firm.  The  inner  portion  is  tender,  watery,  and  pulp-like, 
usually  reddish,  but  in  some  forms  purplish  or  white.  The  water- 
melon is  a  native  of  tropical  Africa  and  has  been  in  cultivation 
since  prehistoric  times. 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Will  watermelons  pay  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Starting  plants. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil. 

7.  Transplanting  into  the  garden. 

8.  Planting  seed  in  the  garden. 

9.  Cultivating. 

10.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

11.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 


VINE   CROP  PROJECTS  171 

Most  of  the  general  instructions  given  under  Project  VIII, 
''Growing  Cucumbers,"  and  Project  IX,  ''  Growing  Muskmelons," 
are  equally  applicable  to  the  growing  of  watermelons.  The  most 
important  differences  are  pointed  out  in  the  following  paragraphs. 

1.  Will  watermelons  pay  ?  —  There  are  a  few  sections  of  the 
North  where  the  watermelon  should  have  serious  consideration  as 
a  home  project.  As  previously  stated  the  plant  requires  high 
temperature  and  a  long  season.  If  both  soil  and  climatic  condi- 
tions are  favorable  and  a  good  market  available,  there  is  no  reason 
why  it  should  not  be  produced  at  a  profit. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  watermelons  for  market?     L  :  231. 

2.  Where  are  ivatermelons  most  extensively  grown  for  commercial 

purposes?    W-VG :  467.     L:231.     0:455. 

3.  What  is  the  history  of  the  watermelon?     W-VG  :  467.     Trp  :  1. 

4.  How  does  it  differ  botanically  from  the  muskmelon? 

Trp.  2-8.     C  :  456. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  The  watermelon  should  have  the 
lightest  soil  and  the  warmest  location  that  can  be  found.  An 
old  pasture  sod  on  a  southern  slope  is  extremely  desirable. 

W  :  153,  154,  and  166.     W-VG  :  468.     Trp  :  9-17.     L :  231. 

1.  Describe  in  detail  the  most  suitable  location  for  the  growing  of 
watermelons.  Do  you  have  a  location  that  satisfies  these 
requirements?     W-VG  :  468.     Trp  :  9-17.     0:457. 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  There  are  many  good  varieties  of 
watermelons,  and  students  should  be  familiar  with  the  various 
classes  as  described  in  W-VG :  467.  Among  the  most  popular 
varieties  may  be  mentioned  Kleckley  Sweet,  Kolb  Gem,  Cuban 


172  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Sweet,  Halbert  Honey,  Dixie,  and  Sugar  Stick.  All  of  these  varie- 
ties are  listed  and  described  in  most  of  the  seed  catalogues.  Cole 
and  Fordhook  are  very  early  varieties  and  should  have  considera- 
tion for  planting  in  districts  which  are  not  altogether  suitable  for 
the  culture  of  melons. 

1.  What  varieties  do  you  think  would  do  well  in  your  locality  ? 

2.  What  varieties  are  most  valuable  for  planting  where  the  soil  and 

climatic  conditions  are  rather  unfavorable  for  melons? 
W-VG  :  468.     C  :  461.     Seed  catalogues. 

3.  Are  melons  grown  in  your  neighborhood  ?     If  so,  what  varieties  ? 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  Excellent  seed  can  usually  be  bought 
from  dealers.  Many  commercial  growers  select  their  own  seed. 
Trp. :  18-29. 

1.   Where  and  how  may  good  seed  be  obtained  ? 
W  :  155,  168.    W-VG  :  468.    Trp  :  18-29. 

5.  Starting  plants.  —  Early  plants  may  be  started  under  glass 
in  the  same  manner  as  explained  for  cucumbers  and  muskmelons. 
W :  156.     This  is  a  distinct  advantage  in  northern  regions. 

W-VG  :  366.     Trp  :  35-40. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  In  the  North,  even  more  care  should 
be  exercised  in  preparing  the  soil  for  watermelons  than  for  cucum- 
bers and  muskmelons.  Select  an  old  pasture  sod,  manure  heavily 
with  fresh  strawy  manure  and  plow  in  fall,  replow  in  the  spring, 
and  harrow  thoroughly.  It  is  important  to  use  in  the  hill  an  abun- 
dance of  well-decayed  stable  manure.  If  a  limited  number  of 
hills  are  to  be  planted,  it  may  pay  to  mix  a  few  shovelfuls  of  sand 
in  each,  besides  manure  and  perhaps  a  little  commercial  fertilizer. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  173 

Bone  meal  is  especially  valuable  for  mixing  in  the  hill  for  this 
vegetable. 

I.  What  are  the  best  directions  for  preparing  the  soil  for  a  success- 

ful crop  of  watermelons  on  your  farm  ? 

W:172.     W-VG:369.     Trp :  30-34.     L:23L     C :  457. 

7.  Transplanting  into  the  garden.  —  The  plants  started  under 
glass  should  be  transplanted  into  the  field  in  the  same  manner  as 
explained  for  cucumbers  and  muskmelons  (W :  159),  except  that 
the  hills  should  be  about  10  X 10  feet  apart. 

W-VG  :  469.     Trp  :  35-40. 

8.  Planting  seed  in  the  garden.  —  The  common  practice  is  to 
plant  the  seed  in  hills  about  10X10  feet  apart,  after  the  danger 
of  killing  frosts  is  practically  past.  Plenty  of  seed  should  be  used 
in  each  hill  in  order  to  insure  a  good  stand  of  plants,  and  then 
they  should  be  thinned  to  three  or  four  of  the  strongest. 

W  :  160.     W-VG  :  369,  469.     Trp  :  41-45.     C  :  459. 

9.  Cultivating.  —  W^atermelons  should  have  thorough  tillage. 
Some  hand-hoeing  is  always  necessary. 

W :  161,  168.     W-VG  :  373.     L :  232.     C  :  459. 

10.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

W  :  161,  169.     Trp  :  68-89.     C  :  460.     CL :  109. 

II.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Growers  cannot  be  too 
careful  in  harvesting  the  melons  at  the  proper  time  to  secure  the 
highest  quality.  It  is  largely  a  question  of  experience,  but  the 
observing  student  should  not  make  many  mistakes  in  this  matter. 

Trp :  46-60.     C  :  462. 

1.   How  can  you  determine  when  a  watermelon  is  ripe  enough  to 
pick  ?     W-VG  :  469.     Trp  :  46-60. 

Project  XI.     Growing  Squashes 

The  words  squash  and  pumpkin  are  rather  loosely  used  to  apply 
to  various  cucurbits.     There  are  three  different  species  and  nu- 


174  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

merous  varieties  to  which  these  names  are  appHed.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  know  just  what  is  meant  by  the  terms  squash  and 
pumpkin  unless  other  descriptive  terms  are  used.  The  name 
squash  is  said  to  be  adapted  from  an  American  Indian  word. 
Some  of  the  forms  w^ere  being  cultivated  by  the  Indians  when 
America  was  discovered,  others  are  doubtless  natives  of  tropical 
Asia  and  Africa. 

In  some  forms  the  plants  are  bushy ;  others  have  trailing  vines. 
The  stems  are  rough  and  the  trailing  forms  have  a  tendency  to 
root  at  the  nodes.  The  various  forms  differ  in  the  shape  of  the 
leaves  and  the  character  of  the  fruit  stalk,  as  well  as  in  the  fruits 
themselves.  Three  species  may  be  recognized  which  are  variously 
subdivided.  These  three  species  may  be  roughly  separated  as 
follows : 

(1)  Pumpkin,  summer  sqiiash,  crookneck,  scallop,  and  gourd 
(in  part),  having  lobed  leaves  and  ridged  fruit  stalks  which  are 
not  enlarged  next  to  the  fruit. 

(2)  Winter  or  Canada  Crookneck  squash  and  Cushaiv  or  pie 
pumpkin  of  the  South,  having  lobed  leaves  and  ridged  fruit  stalks 
which  are  much  enlarged  next  to  the  fruit. 

(3)  Hubbard,  Turban,  and  Marblehead  squash,  having  leaves 
not  lobed,  fruit  stalks  not  much  ribbed. 

In  the  first  species,  the  true  pumpkins,  the  plants  have  rather 
robust,  long,  trailing  stems.  This  group  includes  the  common  and 
field  pumpkins.  The  summer  squashes,  crooknecks,  and  scallops 
have  bushy,  more  compact  plants.  In  the  summer  squashes  and 
crooknecks,  the  fruit  has  a  narrow  crooked  neck  and  the  rind  is 
covered  with  warts  or  humps.  The  scallops  have  fruits  broader 
than  long,  with  scalloped  edges  and  a  smooth  rind.  The  gourds 
have  slender,  running  stems  with  fruits  comparatively  small  and 
a  very  hard  rind.  They  are  not  edible.  In  the  second  species 
the  plants  are  compact,  the  fruit  crooknecked  and  smooth.  In 
the  cushaw  the  fruit  may  be  yellow,  white,  or  striped.     In  the 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS  175 

third  group  is  the  well-known  and  popular  Hubbard  squash.  It 
has  been  suggested  that  the  term  squash  shall  be  reserved  for  this 
group.  The  leaves  are  not  lobed  and  the  stalks  of  the  fruit  not 
ribbed.  In  this  species  fruits  are  never  erooknecked.  The 
mammoth  squashes  belong  here.  These  have  been  known  to 
grow  to  large  sizes,  weighing  a  hundred  or  even  two  hundred 
pounds.  Within  the  three  species  there  is  without  doubt  crossing 
between  the  varieties,  but  it  is  not  believed  that  the  species  will 
naturally  cross  with  one  another 

1.  Why  is  it  not  possible  to  distinguish  clearly  between  squashes  and 

'pumpkins? 

2.  What  two  kinds  of  plants  are  there? 

3.  What  are  the  three  principal  characters  used  to  distinguish  the  three 

species  ? 

4.  What  precaution  needs  to  be  taken  to  prevent  crossing  of  these 

various  forms? 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Will  squashes  pay  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Starting  plants. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil. 

7.  Transplanting  into  the  garden. 

8.  Planting  seed  in  the  garden. 

9.  Cultivating. 

10.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

11.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 


176  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  Will  squashes  pay  ?  —  This  will  depend  mainly  on  two  fac- 
tors, first,  whether  you  have  a  good  market  for  squashes,  and, 
second,  whether  you  have  a  considerable  area  of  well-drained  land. 
The  squash  is  not  so  exacting  in  its  cultural  requirements  as  the 
muskmelon  and  watermelon,  and  it  may  be  readily  grown  through- 
out the  North.  The  market  demand,  however,  is  very  limited  in 
most  communities,  so  that  we  should  be  careful  not  to  venture 
on  too  large  a  scale  unless  a  good  market  is  assured. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  squashes?    W-VG  :  427. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  Squashes  may  be  grown  with  entire 
success  in  a  great  diversity  of  soil  types.  Good  drainage  is  essen- 
tial as  is  also  high  fertility.     The  sandy  loams  are  preferred. 

1.   Do  you  have  suitable  soil  and  climatic  conditions  for  the  growing 
of  squashes?     W:151.     W-VG :  428.     L:240. 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  The  most  important  early  bush  or 
summer  varieties  are  Early  White  Bush,  Yellow  Bush,  Summer 
Crookneck,  and  Giant  Crookneck.  Winter  varieties :  Hubbard, 
Delicious,  Essex  Hybrid,  and  Boston  Marrow.  The  Hubbard 
type  is  generally  grown  throughout  the  country. 

1  .   What  variety  will  be  likely  to  pay  you  the  best  ? 
W-VG  :  428.     L :  237-240.     C  :  413-416,  420. 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  Good  seed  may  be  purchased  or  saved 
from  home-grown  specimens.     W :  43,  155. 

5.  Starting  early  plants.  —  Early  plants  may  be  started  under 
glass  in  the  same  manner  as  other  cucurbits. 

W:  156,  157. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  The  soil  may  be  prepared  in  the  same 
manner  as  for  cucumbers  or  melons. 

W  :  157,  168.    W-VG  :  428.     L :  240.     C  :  415. 


VINE  CROP  PROJECTS 


177 


Fia.  41.  —  Various  types  of  squashes.     They  are  extremely  variable  in  shape, 

size,  and  color. 


Fig.  42.  —  Squashes  and  pumpkins  of   the   types   shown   in   this   illustration   are 
especially  desirable  for  the  making  of  pies. 


7.   Transplanting  into  the  garden.  —  Squashes  may  be  trans- 
planted in  the  same  manner  as  other  cucurbits. 
W:  159. 


178  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

8.  Planting  seed  in  the  garden.  —  The  early  or  bush  varieties 
are  planted  in  hills  four  or  five  feet  apart  each  way,  while  the  late 
sorts  being  vining  are  planted  in  hills  ten  to  twelve  feet  apart. 

W  :  160.     W-VG  :  428,  429.     C  :  415. 

9.  Cultivating.  —  Thorough  tillage  for  squashes  is  just  as  im- 
portant as  for  the  other  cucurbits. 

W:161. 

10.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  Few  insect  pests  are 
more  widely  known  than  the  squash  bug.  The  adult,  a  large  brown- 
ish bug,  passes  the  winter  beneath  rubbish,  or  in  some  conven- 
ient shelter.  About  the  time  squashes  come  up  the  bugs  emerge 
and  gather  on  the  plants,  sucking  the  juices  and  causing  the  leaves 
to  wilt.  The  eggs,  which  are  deposited  in  clusters  on  the  under> 
sides  of  the  leaves,  hatch  in  about  six  to  fifteen  days,  and  the 
grayish  nymphs  feed  on  the  leaves  for  four  or  five  weeks,  reaching 
maturity  in  late  summer.  The  adults  are  very  resistant  to  con- 
tact sprays.  Trapping  the  adults  or  spraying  the  young  nymphs 
with  tobacco  decoction  are  the  best  remedies.  Other  sucking 
bugs  attacking  squash  are  horned  squash  bug,  melon  leaf  bug, 
the  southern  and  the  northern  leaf-footed  plant  bug. 

1.  Why  is  the  squash  bug  more  troublesome  in  gardens  than  in 

larger  plantations  ?     CL:117. 

2.  Describe  the  appearance  of  an  injured  plant.     CL:118. 

3.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  squash  bug  ?     CL  :  118. 

4.  Give  three  control  measures.     CL:  119. 

5.  What  other  insects  attack  the  squash?     CL :  119,  121. 

11.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  The  crop  should  be  handled 
with  great  care  so  as  to  prevent  bruising,  for  any  injury  may  be 


viNK  (;uoi»  PUojKCTS  179 

the  cause  of  decay  when  the  squashes  are  placed  in  storage.  They 
should  be  harvested  before  the  time  of  hard  frosts  and  stored  in  a 
dry  room  where  they  will  not  freeze.  Be  sure  that  each  specimen 
has  its  stem  attached.  A  temperature  of  50°  or  slightly  above 
is  most  conducive  to  keeping  squashes  for  a  long  period. 

1.   Have  you  suitable   conditions  for  the  storage   of  squashes? 
What  are  they  ?     W-VG  :  429.     C  :  417-419. 


CHAPTER  SIX 
ROOT   CROP   PROJECTS 

The  root  crops,  including  the  beet,  carrot,  radish,  turnip,  pars- 
nip, salsify,  horse-radish,  kohl-rabi,  rutabaga,  and  celeriac,  are 
grown  with  entire  success  at  comparatively  low  temperatures,  and 
they  are  generally  cultivated  throughout  the  North.  They 
thrive  best  in  moist,  deep,  fertile,  sandy  loams,  but  excellent 
roots  are  produced  in  a  great  diversity  of  soils.  Sandy  soils  are 
favorable  to  their  most  symmetrical  development,  and  there  are 
fewer  of  the  small,  fibrous  feeding  roots,  always  objectionable, 
than  when  grown  in  heavy  soils. 

Project  XII.     Growing  Root  Crops 

1.  Importance  of  root  crops. 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Sources  of  seed. 

5.  Preparing  the  soil. 

6.  When  to  plant. 

7.  Spacing  the  rows. 

8.  Drilling  the  seed. 

9.  Companion  cropping. 

10.  Thinning  the  plants. 

11.  Cultivating. 

12.  Weeding. 

13.  Combating  insects. 

14.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

15.  Storing  root  crops. 

16.  Forcing. 

180 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  181 

Though  numerous  questions  are  asked  in  the  following  project, 
very  few  page  references  are  given,  as  it  did  not  seem  practicable 
to  give  the  large  number  that  would  be  requir'ed  for  the  many 
vegetables  of  this  group.  Discussions  of  the  various  crops  may 
be  found  in  W-VG,  L,  and  C,  and  also  in  bulletins. 

1.  Importance  of  root  crops.  —  It  is  impossible  to  estimate 
the  importance  of  the  root  crops.  They  are  grown  in  practically 
all  gardens,  either  for  the  home  table  or  for  commercial  purposes. 
The  great  city  markets  are  never  without  them  and  thousands 
of  bushels  are  placed  in  storage  every  year.  Most  of  the  root 
crops  are  easy  to  grow  and  the  ambitious  gardener  may  have  one 
or  two  members  of  this  group  for  sale  every  month  of  the  year. 
They  of^^'er  splendid  financial  possibilities.  This  is  especially  true 
of  the  beet,  carrot,  radish,  and  turnip.  The  other  members  of  the 
group  can  often  be  produced  at  a  profit.  The  growing  of  one  or 
more  of  the  root  crops  may  well  have  serious  consideration  as  a 
home  project.  It  is  important,  of  course,  to  determine  market 
needs,  and  to  regulate  the  plantings  accordingly. 

1.  What  is  the  importance  of  the  various  root  crops  on  your  local 

market  ? 

2.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  any  of  the  root  crops  ?     If  so,  which  ones  ? 

3.  How  generally  are  the  root  crops  grown? 

4.  Name  the  root  crops  in  order  of  their  importance. 

5.  What  is  the  history  of  each  of  the  root  crops  f 

6.  What  are  the  chief  botanical  characteristics  of  each  member  of 

this  group? 

7.  Are  the  root  crops  **  annuals  "  or  "  biennials  "f 


182  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

8.  How  do  the  root  crops  differ  in  chemical  conipos'dionf 

9.  How  are  the  various  root  crops  served  on  the  tahlef 

10.    Are  they  essential  in  the  diet,  and  how  do  they  compare  with  the 
white  potato  in  nutritive  value f     With  the  sweet  potato? 


Fig.  43. — An  excellent  lot  of  turnip-shaped  radishes. 

2.  Selecting  location. — The  root  crops,  as  previously  stated, 
thrive  at  comparatively  low  temperatures  so  that  there  is  no 
part  of  the  North  where  they  cannot  be  successfully  grown.  By 
taking  advantage  of  the  cooler  months  they  may  also  be  grown 
with  gratifying  results  in  most  parts  of  the  South.  In  the  North, 
the  most  important  factor  in  seeking  a  location  is  the  soil.  A 
considerable  proportion  of  sand  is  always  an  advantage.  Root 
crops  do  best,  too,  in  soils  abounding  in  humus,  for  such  soils  are 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  183 

fijenerally  moist  and  fertile.  Stones  or  rilbbish  of  any  kind  inter- 
fere in  the  operations  of  drilling,  cultivating,  and  weeding.  We 
should  also  avoid  if  possible  locations  containing  large  numbers  of 
weed  seeds,  for  these  will  be  certain  to  add  to  the  cost  of  produc- 
tion. It  is  essential,  of  course,  that  the  land  be  well  drained  and 
it  should  be  at  least  fairly  level. 

1.  Describe  the  ideal  location  for  the  growing  of  root  crops. 

W :  180. 

2.  Do  you  have  a  suitable  location  for  root  crop  production  ? 

3.  What  conditions  should  be  avoided  in  the  selection  of  a  location  ? 

4.  Do  you  know  of  marhet  gardeners  icho  grow  large  quantities  of 

root  cropsf     Describe  their  soils,  and  other  cultural  conditions. 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  In  the  selection  of  varieties  the  fol- 
lowing should  have  consideration : 

Beet,  early:  Crosby's  Egyptian,  Eclipse,  Early  Model,  Egyp- 
tian. 

Beet,  medium  early :  Detroit  Dark  Red,  Edmonds  Blood 
Turnip,  Bastian  Half  Long. 

Beet,  late  :  Long  Dark  Red,  Philadelphia  Half  Long. 

Growers  should  also  bear  in  mind  that  the  turnip-shaped  early 
varieties  are  extensively  grown  for  winter  use,  but  they  are  planted 
later  than  the  strictly  late  varieties. 

Carrot,  early  :  Early  Short  Scarlet,  Early  Scarlet  Horn. 

Carrot,  medium  early :  Chantenay,  Danvers  Half  Long,  Ox 
Heart,  Rubicon. 

Carrot,  late  :  Long  Orange,  and  Medium  Early  varieties  planted 
later  than  late  sorts. 

Radish  :  Round  Red  Forcing,  French  Breakfast,  Earliest  White, 
Cardinal  Globe,  Crimson  Giant,  Chartier,  White  Icicle,  Lady 
Finger. 


Fig.  44.  —  Good  specimens  of  oblong-shaped  radishes  which  are  in  demand  on 

many  markets. 


Fig.  45.  —  Long  Cardinal  radishes  should  not  be  planted  in  heavy  soils. 

184 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  185 

Turnip :  Purple  Top  Globe  and  Purple  Top  Strap  Leaf. 
Parsnip  :  Guernsey  and  Hollow  Crown. 

Salsify :  Mammoth  Sandwich  Island,  Long  White,  and  Long 
Black. 

Kohl-rabi :  White  Vienna  and  Purple  Vienna. 

1.  What  varieties  of  each  class  of  the  root  crops  would  you  select 

for  early,  medium,  and  late  use  ? 

2.  How  may  the  varieties  of  the  various  root  crops  be  classifiedf 

3.  Make  a  thorough  study  of  all  the  varieties  that  can  be  found  in  your 

community. 

4.  Sources  of  seed.  —  It  is  important  to  determine  as  far  as 
possible  the  sources  of  the  best  strains  of  seed.  There  is  a  great 
difference  in  the  quality  of  root  crop  seeds.  Some  growers  at- 
tach so  much  importance  to  this  matter  that  they  grow  and  select 
their  own  seed.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  beet.  The  roots 
desired  for  the  production  of  seed  are  selected  with  extreme  care 
so  as  to  secure  the  greatest  uniformity  in  size,  shape,  and  color. 
They  are  then  stored  during  the  winter  as  explained  in  W :  197 
and  planted  early  in  the  spring.  Gardeners  will  find  the  growing 
of  root  crop  seeds  a  most  interesting  proposition  and  it  is  well 
worth  the  attention  of  thoughtful  students. 

The  principles  involved  in  the  production  of  garden  seeds  are 
discussed  in  W  :  43. 

1.  What  may  be  said  about  the  importance  of  obtaining  superior 

root  crop  seeds? 

2.  Where  can  you  obtain  high-grade  seed  of  the  different  kinds  of 

root  crops? 


186 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


3.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  for  the  various  kinds  of  root 

crops  ? 

4.  How  many  years  do  the  different  root  crop  seeds  retain  their  vitality  ? 

5.  Under  what  conditions  should  they  he  stored? 


N  ^1^^ 

_^ 

4^^ 

-^ 

--,_v' 

Fig.  46.  —  Early  Model  beets, 

5.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  In  W :  182  attention  is  called  to  the 
importance  of  the  soil  being  well  filled  with  organic  matter,  for 
soils  deficient  in  humus  never  produce  satisfactory  root  crops. 
The  organic  matter,  too,  must  be  well  decayed.  Fresh  stable 
manures  should  never  be  employed  in  any  considerable  amount, 
for  they  encourage  foliage  development  rather  than  root  growth, 
while  rotten  manures  have  the  opposite  effect.  The  heaviest 
applications  of  composted  or  well-decayed  manure  may  be  made, 
thus  increasing  the  size  of  the  roots  as  well  as  their  quality.  If 
any  coarse  manure  is  to  be  used  it  should  be  plowed  down,  but 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  187 

fine,  decayed  manure  will  be  most  beneficial  if  applied  after  plow- 
ing, and  mixed  thoroughly  with  the  soil  by  harrowing. 

Commercial  fertilizers  are  widely  used  in  the  growing  of  root 
crops.  It  is  customary  to  apply  plenty  of  phosphorus.  Potash 
is  also  regarded  as  an  important  factor  by  most  growers.  Nitrogen 
is  essential,  but  its  excessive  use  has  the  same  effect  as  heavy 
applications  of  fresh  stable  manure.  Ordinarily,  at  least  half  a 
ton  of  high-grade  fertilizer  to  the  acre  may  be  used  profitably. 

The  soil  should  be  in  a  fine  state  of  division  before  any  seed  is 
sown.     (Students  should  look  up  W  :  63  and  all  references.) 

1.  What  kind  and  how  much  stable  manure  should  be  applied  for 

the  growing  of  root  crops?      W  :  186. 

2.  When  and  how  should  the  stable  manure  be  applied?    W  :  186. 

3.  What  would  you  recommend  relative  to  the  use  of  commercial 

fertiHzer  for  the  several  root  crops  ? 

4.  Make  an  estimate  of  your  fertilizer  needs,  assuming  that  the 

materials  are  to  be  bought  and  mixed  at  home.     What  will 
the  fertilizer  cost  per  ton,  mixed? 

5.  How  should  your  soil  be  managed  to  have  it  in  a  thoroughly 

fine  state  of  division  for  sowing  the  seed?     W:  63. 

6.  Students  will  be  interested  in   looking  up  the  various  methods 

employed  by  gardeners  in  the  fertilizing  of  root  crops. 

6.  When  to  plant.  —  The  beet,  carrot,  radish,  and  turnip  each 
may  be  planted  in  succession,  if  desired,  as  early  as  the  soil  can  be 
prepared  in  the  spring,  until  midsummer.  The  parsnip  and  sal- 
sify are  long  season  crops  and  should  be  planted  very  early  in  the 
spring.  Horse-radish  roots  should  also  be  planted  early  in  the 
spring. 


188  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  When  should  the  different  root  crops  be  planted? 

2.  What  is  the  relation  of  varieties  to  the  time  of  planting  ? 


7.  Spacing  the  rows.  —  When  the  root  crops  are  to  be  culti- 
vated with  a  hand 
wheel  hoe,  they  are 
usually  fourteen 
inches  apart.  Many 
growers  prefer  some- 
what more  space  for 
the  parsnip,  carrot, 
and  late  beets. 
Radish  rows  may  be 
closer  together  than 
any  of  the  other  root 
crops.  An  increasing 
number  of  gardeners 
])refer  to  allow  about 
two  feet  between  rows 
and  then  cultivate  the 
crops  with  a  horse. 
While  the  wider  plant- 
ing decreases  the  yield 
per  acre  it  also  re- 
duces the  labor  bill  and  makes  possible  a  larger  area  under  culti- 
vation with  the  labor  available  than  when  the  work  is  done 
with  hand  wheel  hoes. 

1.  How  far  apart  should  the  rows  of  the  different  root  crops  be 
for  wheel  hoe  tillage?  For  horse  tillage?  Which  will  pay 
you  the  best  ? 


Fig.  47.  —  Salsify  seedlings.     Note  on  each    plant 
the  long  roots  with  numerous  laterals. 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS 


189 


8.  Drilling  the  seed.  —  Germination  tests  should  be  made  of 
each  kind  of  seed  to  be  planted  and  the  rate  of  sowing  regulated 
accordingly.  The  tendency  in  sowing  all  of  the  root  crops  is  to 
use  too  much  seed,  thus 
increasing  the  labor  of 
thinning  in  order  to  avoid 
a  harvest  of  small  roots, 
due  to  the  crowding  of  the 
plants.  It  is  exceedingly 
important  to  drill  just 
^  the  right  amount.  The 
literature  of  root  crop 
seeding  should  be  care- 
fully reviewed  so  that 
this  serious  mistake  will 
not  be  made. 

The  depth  of  covering 
should  be  regulated  by 
the  kind  of  seed  and  by 
the  character  of  the  soil. 
Most  of  the  seeds  should 
be  covered  with  about 
half  an  inch  of  fine,  moist 
soil.  Hand  drills  are 
essential  in  large  market 
gardens,  but  in  small 
gardens  the  seeds  may 
be  distributed  rapidly  in 
shallow  furrows  by  the  use  of  an  envelope  as  explained  in 
W :  53.  After  the  furrow  has  been  closed  with  the  back  of  a 
garden  rake  or  other  convenient  tool,  firming  the  soil  with 
the  hoe  or  with  the  feet  brings  the  particles  of  moist  soil 
into    close    contact    with    the    seeds,    thus     causing    them    to 


Fig.  48.  —  Good  roots  of  salsify. 


190  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

germinate    more    promptly   and    to   give   a    larger   percentage 
of  germination. 

1.  What  would  you  recommend  in  regard  to  germination  tests  of 

root  crop  seeds  ? 

2.  About  how  many  seeds  should  be  dropped  to  the  linear  foot  of 

row  for  a  good  stand  of  each  of  the  root  crops  ? 

3.  What  should  be  the  depth  of  covering  for  the  seeds  of  each  of 

the  root  crops  when  planted  in  your  particular  soil  ? 


Fig.  49.  —  This  illustration  shows  the  various  types  of  carrots,  ranging  from  al- 
most round  to  very  long  roots. 

4.  Explain  the  details  of  making  the  furrows,  distributing  the  seed, 

closing  the  furrows,  and  firming  the  soil. 

5.  How  will  you  make  the  rows  perfectly  straight  and  the  inter- 

spaces uniform  in  width  ? 

6.  What  is  the  character  of  the  mechanism  of  a  good  hand  wheel 

drill  f 

7.  Can  you  determine  the  relative  cost  of  sowing  an  acre  by  hand 

versus  with  a  wheel  hoe  f 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  191 

8.  Do  you  recommend  a  combination  drill  and  cultivator? 

9.  Would  it  y ay  you  to  own  a  drill f     Why? 

10.    Does  a  drill  do  the  work  as  well  as  it  can  be  done  by  hand? 


9.  Companion  cropping.  —  The  root  crops  afford  scores  of 
opportunities  for  companion  cropping.  All  sorts  of  combinations 
may  be  made  within  this  group  and  also  with  many  other  vege- 
tables. Students  will  find  it  interesting  to  work  out  different 
plans  of  companion  cropping,  including  one  or  more  with  root 
crops.  The  following  references  will  be  found  helpful :  W-VG : 
477,478,479,480,481,487. 

10.  Thinning  the  plants.  —  Gardeners  may  be  so  skillful  in 
regulating  the  rate 
of  seeding  that  little 
if  any  thinning  will 
be  required.  As  a 
rule,  however,  some 
thinning  is  necessary. 
It  should  be  done  as 
promptly  as  possible, 
or  before  crowding 
has  caused  any  of  the 
plants  to  become 
spindling.  The  num- 
ber of  plants  to  each 
foot  of  row  depends  so  much  on  the  varieties  selected  and 
the  size  of  the  roots  desired  that  it  is  impossible  to  give  satis- 
factory general  directions.  Early  button  or  turnip-shaped  radishes 
may  stand  an  inch  apart ;  late  ones,  two  inches  or  more ;  early 
beets,  two  or  three  inches ;  late  varieties,  four  to  six  inches ; 
early  carrots,  one  to  two  inches ;  late  ones,  three  to  five  inches, 


Fig.    50.  —  Kohl-rabi  must   be  grown  rapidly   and 
harvested  promptly  to  secure  the  highest  quality. 


192  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

unless  very  small  roots  are  wanted ;  early  turnips,  a  couple 
of  inches;  late  ones,  four  to  six;  parsnips,  four  to  six;  salsify, 
three  to  four. 

Various  kinds  of  small  tools  are  available  for  thinning.  It  is 
often  a  matter  of  destroying  whole  clusters  of  surplus  plants. 

1.  How  far  apart  should  the  plants  of  early  and  late  root  crops  stand 

in  the  row  ? 

2.  What  is  an  effective  method  of  thinning  ? 

11.  Cultivating.  —  Thorough  tillage  is  a  most  important  factor 
in  the  growing  of  root  crops.  Tillage  should  begin  as  soon  as  the 
rows  can  be  seen  and  repeated  as  often  as  may  be  necessary  until 
the  roots  are  fully  developed.  Wheel  hoes  with  various  attach- 
ments are  universally  employed.  They  are  great  labor-saving 
implements  and  should  be  used  instead  of  hand  hoes  whenever  it 
is  possible. 

1.  Describe  the  character  of  the  cultivation  required  to  grow  good 

root  crops.     W  :  186. 

2.  What  tools  are  necessary? 

3.  Explain  the  uses  of  the  various  attachments  of  hand  wheel  hoes. 

4.  Explain  the  uses  of  the  various  types  of  hand  hoes. 

12.  Weeding.  —  Even  with  the  most  thorough  cultivation, 
more  or  less  hand  weeding  is  necessary  in  growing  root  crops. 
Various  kinds  of  small  tools,  referred  to  in  W  :  305,  are  available  to 
facilitate  this  work.  It  is  necessarily  a  tedious  and  expensive 
operation,  and  should  be  reduced  to  a  minimum  by  the  proper 
use  of  cultivators. 

1.   What  tools  do  you  think  you  should  have  for  weeding  ? 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS 


193 


13.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  Root  crops  are  injured 
by  insects  that  suck  the  leaf  juices,  eat  the  foUage,  or  mine  the 
leaves  or  roots.  Radishes  destroyed  by  root  maggots  and  flea 
beetles,  or  carrots  injured  by  the  carrot  rust  fly,  are  interesting 
examples.  The  spinach  louse  (spinach  aphis)  is  a  very  common 
pest  of  truck  crops, 
feeding  generally  on  a 
number  of  different 
plants  in  the  field,  or 
in  the  greenhouses 
where  it  may  pass  the 
winter.  The  pinkish 
or  pale  yellow  soft- 
bodied  lice  multiply 
very  rapidly,  sucking 
the  plant  juices,  and 
when  abundant  caus- 
ing the  leaves  to  curl 
and  dwarfing  the 
roots.  This  insect  is  easily  destroyed  by  spraying  with  a  con- 
tact insecticide.  On  those  crops  where  the  leaves  grow  close  to 
the  ground  some  difficulty  may  be  experienced  in  applying  the 
spray.  A  spray  boom  devised  for  this  purpose  is  very  satisfactory 
in  field  practice. 

Swarms  of  beet  leaf  hoppers  often  appear  in  fields  of  beets 
through  large  areas  of  many  of  the  western  states.  Beet  roots 
are  subject  to  a  disease  known  as  curly  top,  which  is  trans- 
mitted by  these  insects  as  they  migrate  from  one  field  to 
another.  Curiously  enough  the  hoppers  which  travel  from  a 
great  distance  are  the  most  to  be  feared,  as  those  which  hibernate 
in  near-by  fields  seldom  do  much  damage.  Injuries  from  the 
pests  are  apt  to  be  periodical  as  they  seem  to  avoid  working  in 
fields  which  were  infested  during  the  previous  season.     The  insect 


Fig.  51. 


Swiss   chard,  botanically  a  beet  which   is 
most  excellent  for  greens. 


194 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


is  single  brooded.  It  inserts  eggs  into  the  thickened  stem  and 
larger  leaf  veins,  and  these  hatch  about  fifteen  days  later,  when  the 
nymphs  work  into  the  heart  of  the  plant.  Little  progress  has 
been  made  in  the  control  of  the  insect,  and  therefore  of  the  disease. 

As  a  commercial  practice, 
spraying  appears  to  be  un- 
profitable and  of  doubtful 
efficiency. 

The  common  name  "  leaf 
miner  "  given  to  the  spinach 
leaf  miner  describes  the  nature 
of  its  larval  work.  The  larva 
eats  into  the  tissue  of  the  leaf, 
making  a  thread-like  mine 
which  by  continued  eating  is 
This  leaf  injury  dwarfs  the  roots  or 
The  adult  fly,  a  two-winged 


Fig. 


Spinach  and  beet  leaf  miner 


enlarged  like   a  blotch. 

spoils  the  leaves  if  used  for  greens. 

fly,  appears  in  the  fields   early  in  the  spring   and  deposits  eggs 

on   one   side   of   a   leaf.     These   hatch,    and    the   young  larva, 

working  in  the  leaf,  becomes  mature  in  about  a  week,  when  it 

deserts  the  leaf  and  enters  the  soil  to  pupate.     Clean   culture 

may  be  a  means  of  control.     There  is  no  satisfactory  remedy. 


1.  Why  is  the  spinach  aphis  such  a  serious  pest  f     CL  :  105-106. 

2.  What  is  its  life  history  f    CL :  105-106. 

3.  How  can  it  be  controlled  f     CL:107. 

4.  Describe  an  improved  type  of  cprayer. 


5.    How  can  radishes  be  protected  from  root  maggots  f     CL :  36. 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  195 

6.  How  does  the  loork  of  the  carrot  rust  fly  on  celery  and  on  carrots 

differ?    CL:153. 

7.  What  is  the  relatioji  of  curly  top  disease  to  leaf  hopper  attacks  on 

beets  f    CL:93. 

8.  Do  hoppers  from  near-by  fields  endanger  the  crop?     CL  :  93. 

9.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  beet  leaf  hopper  f     CL :  94. 
10.    How  does  the  insect  feed?     CL  :  94. 

IL    What  are  some  other  insects  injuring  root  crops?     CL:  90-107. 

12.  What  are  the  common  and  cultivated  food  plants  of  the  spiiiach 

leaf  miner?    CL:  90-91. 

13.  What  form  of  the  insect  causes  the  damage?     CL  :  91-92. 

14.  What  is  the  nature  of  the  injury  ?     CL  :  91-92. 

15.  What  control  measures  are  practiced?    CL  :  92. 


14.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Root  crops  are  usually  har- 
vested as  soon  as  they  attain  marketable  size,  for  any  considerable 
delay  is  certain  to  result  in  depreciation  of  the  quality,  the  roots 
becoming  pithy,  tough,  or  fibrous.  This  is  especially  true  of  the 
radish.  Even  a  few  days  may  make  a  great  difl'erence  in  the 
quality  of  early  radishes,  for  they  soon  attain  an  abnormal  size, 
with  accompanying  pithiness  or  toughness,  and  a  sharp,  unpleasant 
flavor. 

It  is  also  exceedingly  important  to  sell  early  beets  while  they 
are  tender  and  succulent,  and,  though  small  in  size,  they  may 
command  better  prices  than  if  allowed  to  grow  for  several  wrecks 


196 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


longer.  The  same  may  be  said  of  early  turnips,  carrots,  and 
kohl-rabi,  the  latter  crop  having  an  enlarged  stem  rather  than 
an  edible  root,  although  often  classed  as  a  root  crop. 

Parsnips  and  salsify  are  extremely  hardy  roots  and  are  seldom 
injured  by  the  severest  winter  temperatures,  especially  if  the 
ground  is  well  covered  with  snow.  While  they  may  be  dug  in  the 
fall  and  stored  for  winter  use,  and  it  is  desirable  to  harvest  some 

of  the  roots  for  this 
purpose,  the  usual 
custom  is  to  leave 
most  of  the  roots 
in  the  ground  until 
spring. 

Late  beets,  carrots, 
and  turnips  should 
be  harvested  in  the 
fall  before  there  is 
hard  freezing  weather 
and  placed  in  storage 
(W:  197).  Though 
beets  with  their  tops  on  are  sometimes  kept  in  trenches  during 
the  early  winter  and  sold  as  "  bunch  beets,"  the  usual  custom 
is  to  cut  off  the  tops  of  all  late  root  crops  before  burying  them 
or"  placing  them  in  other  storage. 

Early  beets,  radishes,  and  carrots  are  generally  sold  in  bunches, 
the  number  per  bunch  varying  according  to  the  market  require- 
ments. Before  deciding  upon  any  given  number  per  bunch,  the 
markets  to  be  supplied  should  be  investigated,  which  should  be 
a  guide  to  all  marketing  preparations.  The  roots  are  generally 
washed  after  they  have  been  tied  into  bunches.  If  the  roots  are 
very  attractive  it  may  pay  to  use  fancy  tying  material  such  as 
blue  and  red  tape,  about  \  inch  wide,  now  sold  by  garden  supply 
houses. 


Fig.  53.  —  Home  hampers  are  very  useful  for  the 
selling  of  parsnips,  parsley,  and  various  other 
vegetables. 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  197 

1.  At  what  stage  of  development  should  root  crops  be  harvested? 

2.  Why  is  it  important  to  harvest  early  root  crops  as  promptly  as 

possible  ? 

3.  Which  of  the  root  crops  may  be  left  in  the  ground  all  winter? 

4.  How  should  early  root  crops  be  prepared  for  market?     Late 

root  crops  ? 

5.  Can  you  suggest  any  improvement  in  the  methods  employed  in 

marketing  root  crops  in  your  community  f 

15.  Storing  root  crops.  —  Millions  of  bushels  of  root  crops  are 
stored  every  year.  The  number  of  permanent  storage  pits  and 
houses  is  constantly  increasing.  Some  of  the  pits  are  very  simple 
and  inexpensive  to  construct.  They  are  often  built  of  concrete 
and  covered  with  enough  soil  or  litter  of  some  kind  to  prevent 
the  roots  from  freezing.  Plans  for  such  pits  or  houses  may  be 
obtained  from  most  of  the  agricultural  colleges. 

The  home  project  gardener,  however,  may  not  have  such  a  pit, 
and  he  may  not  have  the  means  to  construct  one  for  the  first  crop 
or  two.  In  that  event,  he  can  bury  the  roots  so  that  they  will 
keep  in  perfect  condition.  A  well-drained  location  should  be 
found.  The  roots,  such  as  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  parsnips,  and 
salsify,  may  be  piled  on  top  of  the  ground,  or  if  the  drainage  is 
good,  an  excavation  eight  to  ten  inches  in  depth  may  be  made. 
In  either  case  the  roots  should  be  first  covered  with  four  to  six 
inches  of  straw  and  then  several  inches  of  soil,  and  as  the  winter 
comes  on  soil  applied  to  depth  of  one  foot,  with  enough  horse 
manure  to  protect  the  roots  from  freezing.  In  most  parts  of  the 
North  a  covering  of  manure  half  a  foot  deep  on  top  of  the  soil 
will  be  necessary  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  roots.  The  pit  may 
be  opened  on  mild  days  during  the  winter  to  remove  all  or  part  of 


198 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


ROOT  CROP  PROJECTS  199 

the  roots,  or  it  may  remain  undisturbed  until  some  time  in  March. 
The  roots  should  be  in  perfect  condition  when  taken  from  the  pit. 

1.  What  are  the  most  favorable  conditions  for  the  storage  of  root 

crops  ? 

2.  What  are  the  best  directions  for  burying  root  crops  ? 

3.  Make  plans  for  a  simple  concrete  storage  pit  that  would  hold  50  to 

1 00  bushels  of  roots.     What  would  it  cost  f     Coidd  you  build  it  ? 

4.  Will  it  pay  you  to  store  root  crops  for  winter  and  spring  sales? 

Why  or  why  not- 

What  prices  do  root  crops  generally  command  on  your  local  mar- 
kets f 

16.  Forcing.  —  Carrots  are  grown  to  some  extent  in  cold 
frames,  and  radishes  are  largely  grown  both  in  frames  and  in 
greenhouses.  The  soil  should  be  prepared  wdth  great  care.  The 
rows  are  generally  much  closer  together  than  in  out-of-door 
plantations,  for  it  is  not  uncommon  to  make  them  only  four  or 
five  inches  apart. 

Radish  forcing  is  fully  discussed  in  W-VF :  246-259,  387-406. 


CHAPTER  SEVEN 
TUBER   CROP   PROJECTS 

Potatoes  and  sweet  potatoes  comprise  the  tuber  crop  group. 
They  are  so  different  in  soil  and  cKmatic  requirements  that  com- 
paratively few  instructions  relating  to  their  culture  apply  equally 
well  to  both  vegetables.  Sweet  potatoes  grow  best  in  sandy  soils 
and  in  the  warm  climates  with  long  seasons,  while  the  potato 
produces  the  most  satisfactory  crops  in  sandy  loams  or  in  other 
types  of  soils  which  do  not  become  too  compact,  and  in  climates 
which  are  fairly  cool. 

Project  XIII.     Growing  Potatoes 

The  potato  belongs  to  the  potato  family.  Another  important 
commercial  plant  belonging  to  this  family  is  the  tomato.  Closely 
related,  although  quite  different  plants,  are  the  common  or  black 
nightshade  and  the  bittersweet.  The  potato  is  a  native  of  South 
America,  where  it  was  doubtless  first  cultivated  by  the  people  of 
Chili  and  Peru.  Unlike  the  tomato  the  potato  grows  best  in  a 
cool,  moist  climate.  This  fact  can  be  appreciated  when  it  is 
known  that  our  best  potato-producing  regions  in  the  United  States 
are  our  northernmost  states. 

The  roots  of  the  potato  plant  are  fine  and  fibrous.  The  ''  po- 
tatoes," or  as  they  are  properly  known,  tubers,  are  often  considered 
a  part  of  the  root  system  but  they  are  in  reality  underground  stems. 
These  underground  stems  grow  out  to  a  length  of  three  or  four 
inches  from  the  main  axis  or  stem  and  their  tips  become  swollen  to 
form  the  tubers.     The  fact  that  the  tubers  are  modified  stems  is 

200 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  201 

evidenced  by  the  eyes,  which  are  rudimentary  buds.  True  roots  do 
not  have  buds.  Sometimes  tubers  form  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves 
above  ground,  and  only  stems  or  shoots  could  grow  in  such  a 
location.  The  formation  of  tubers  above  ground  is  usually  an 
indication  of  the  presence  of  a  fungous  disease,  but  it  is  a  proof 
of  the  true  nature  of  the  tuber. 

The  stems  which  bear  the  leaves  are  of  the  ordinary  kind  and 
are  usually  smooth  at  first,  but  they  develop  ribs  as  they  grow 
older.  The  leaves  may  be  simple  when  first  developed,  but  they 
become  compound.  The  leaves  of  the  different  varieties  vary  con- 
siderably in  appearance.  The  flowers  of  the  potato  are  regular 
and  vary  from  white  to  yellow,  purple,  or  blue.  Some  varieties 
seldom  bloom  and  even  when  flowers  are  produced  the  fruits  are 
only  rarely  developed.  The  fruit  is  a  globoid  berry  resembling 
a  very  small  tomato,  and  is  called  by  different  names,  the  most 
common  being  "  potato  ball  "  or  "  seed  ball."  The  seeds  are 
small  and  numerous.  Potatoes  are  rarely  propagated  by  seed 
except  by  plant  breeders  who  desire  to  cross  or  improve  varie- 
ties. Every  one  is  familiar  with  the  common  method  of  prop- 
agation by  tubers.  We  are  so  accustomed  to  propagating 
plants  by  seed  that  the  expressions  ''  seed  tubers  "  or  "  seed 
potatoes  "  are  only  natural,  but  we  must  keep  in  mind  that  the 
tubers  are  not  seeds. 

1.  Where  teas  the  potato  first  cultivated  f 

2.  Under  what  conditions  does  the  potato  thrive  best? 

3.  What  part  of  a  plant  is  a  tuber  f 

4.  What  is  the  nature  of  a  healthy  potato  leaff 

5.  What  conditions  of  the  leaves  indicate  diseases? 


202  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS    ' 

6.  Docs  the  blooming  of  potato  plants  necessarily  have  any  connection 

with  the  production  of  tubers  f 

7.  What  are ''potato  balls"  or '' seed  balls  ^^? 

8.  For  what  purpose  may  potato  balls  be  propagated  by  real  seeds  f 

9.  What  w  the  usual  method  of  potato  propagation  f 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  potatoes  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Preparing  the  soil. 

6.  When  to  plant. 

7.  Cutting  the  tubers. 

8.  Planting. 

9.  Cultivating. 

10.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

11.  Harvesting. 

12.  Storing  and  marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  potatoes  ?  —  The  potato  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant food  crops  of  the  United  States.  It  is  grown  in  all  parts 
of  the  country  and  is  consumed  in  large  amounts  by  practically 
all  classes  of  people.  Good  local  markets  for  this  crop  may  be 
found  in  almost  every  county.  As  a  business  proposition  the  cul- 
ture of  the  potato  deserves  careful  consideration.  The  crop  is  not 
difficult  to  grow,  and  it  offers  special  inducements  to  those  who 
understand  and  apply  the  principles  relating  to  its  culture. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  average  annual  world  crop  of  potatoes 
is  about  5,000,000,000  bushels,  90%  of  which  is  grown  in  Europe. 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  203 

The.  growing  of  i)()tatoes  fits  well  into  the  various  rotations  of 
general  farm  crops.  It  is  an  excellent  crop  to  follow  clover  and 
provides  a  cash  return  that  makes  it  peculiarly  attractive  to 
thousands  of  farmers.  For  example,  in  a  survey  in  Chester 
County,  Pennsylvania,  potato  plantings  were  found  on  366  of 
378  farms  investigated. 

1.  How  generally   is   the   potato   grown  in  the   United   States? 

Gi :  5-13. 

2.  Do  you  think  it  would  pay  you  to  make  potato  culture  a  home 

project?     If  so,  why? 

3.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  the  potato?     Gi :  14-20. 

4.  To  lohat  extent  is  the  potato  grown  in  other  countries  f     Gi :  1-13. 

5.  What  are  the  uses  of  the  potato?     Gi :  259-284. 

6.  Hoiv  does  the  potaio  compare  with  the  root  crops  in  composition 

and  food  value?     Fr :  166-170. 

7.  Discuss  the  various  ways  of  serving  potatoes. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  As  previously  indicated  the  potato 
is  best  adapted  to  a  cool,  moist  climate.  It  is  largely  for  this 
reason  that  European  yields  exceed  the  crops  obtained  in  the 
United  States.  The  average  yield  for  the  United  States  in  1914 
was  96  bushels  to  the  acre,  while  for  the  same  year  it  was  130  for 
France,  311  for  the  Netherlands,  388  for  Belgium,  210  for  Great 
Britain,  and  200  for  Germany. 

In  this  connection  we  should  not  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that 
far  more  intensive  methods  are  employed  in  Europe,  so  that  the 
larger  yields  obtained  there  are  not  wholly  attributable  to  more 
favorable  climatic  conditions. 


204  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Even  in  the  northern  half  of  the  United  States,  the  summers 
are  too  hot  for  the  best  results  with  potatoes.  Many  growers, 
however,  are  able  to  provide  and  maintain  such  favorable  soil 
and  cultural  conditions  that  heavy  crops  of  potatoes  are  grown 
year  after  year  in  spite  of  our  comparatively  long,  hot  summers. 

Heavy,  compact  soils  should  always  be  avoided,  if  possible,  in 
selecting  a  location  for  the  potato.  Sandy  soils  are  employed 
largely  in  southern  districts  because  they  produce  a  very  early 
crop,  but  they  are  not  adapted  to  the  late  crop  because  of  their 
deficiency  in  moisture.  In  most  of  the  important  potato  growing 
districts  of  the  North  the  soils  vary  from  sandy  loams  to  gravelly 
loams.  Whatever  the  type,  it  should  be  loose  and  friable.  The 
clay  and  silt  soils  are  not  so  favorable  to  the  production  of  a  large 
crop  of  good  tubers,  and  when  it  is  necessary  to  use  such  soils  they 
should  be  supplied  with  a  large  amount  of  organic  matter. 

The  summer  rainfall  of  the  United  States  is  also  generally 
insufficient  for  a  maximum  yield  of  potatoes,  so  that  naturally 
moist  but  well-drained  soils  should  be  selected  for  this  crop. 

1.  Do  you  have  a  suitable  location  for  growing  potatoes  ? 

2.  What  kind  of  soil  should  be  selected  for  this  crop  ? 

Gi: 86-112.     Fr:  17-25. 

3.  What  are  the  soil  moisture  requirements  for  potatoes  ? 

Gi :  92.     Fr :  8. 

4.  Hoic  do  the  European  climates  compare  with  that  of  the   United 

States  in  their  adaptation  to  potato  culture? 
Gi :  87. 

5.  What  do  you  know  about  the  soil  and  climate  of  Aroostook  County, 

Maine,  where  potatoes  are  grown  so  extensively  f 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  205 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  In  the  choosing  of  varieties,  a  number 
of  factors  should  be  considered,  the  following  being  the  most  im- 
portant :  (1)  Quality.  Consumers  are  demanding  quality.  They 
want  tubers  that  are  mealy,  not  soggy,  when  boiled,  and  that  are 
also  mild  in  flavor.  (2)  Yield.  Some  varieties  produce  much 
heavier  crops  than  others.  Early  varieties  do  not  yield  so  well 
as  late  ones.  As  a  rule  the  tendency  is  to  sacrifice  quality  for 
quantity,  and  this  tendency  is  unfortunate  because  consumers  are 
generally  willing  to  pay  a  good  price  for  potatoes  of  high  quality. 
(3)  Shape.  The  flat-round  and  oval  tubers  are  the  most  popular 
shapes.  Deep  and  numerous  eyes  are  objectionable.  (4)  Disease 
resistance.  Some  varieties  are  more  resistant  to  disease  than 
others,  and  they  are  also  more  vigorous  in  growth. 

Among  the  early  varieties,  Early  Ohio  and  Irish  Cobbler  are 
very  popular,  the  former  being  of  high  quality.  Popular  late 
varieties  are  Green  Mountain,  Rural  New  Yorker,  Carman  No.  1, 
Carman  No.  3,  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  and  Heath's  Late  Beauty. 

An  excellent  plan  is  to  consult  your  dealer  and  your  neighbor 
farmers  before  making  a  final  decision  concerning  varieties  which 
will  pay  best  on  your  particular  soil  and  market.  It  is  also  exceed- 
ingly important  to  select  varieties  with  special  references  to 
disease  resistance  as,  for  example,  the  dreaded  potato  wart  disease. 

1.  What  factors  should  have  consideration  when  choosing  varieties 

of  potatoes  to  be  planted  ? 
Fr:  71-86. 

2.  What  are  the  leading  early  varieties,  and  which  one  will  be 

likely  to  pay  you  best? 
Fr :  87-90. 

3.  What  are  some  of  the  leading  late  varieties,  and  which  will 

pay  you  best  ? 
Fr: 87-90. 


206  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

4.  What  special  preference  has  your  market? 

5.  How  can  you  determine  the  quality  of  a  variety  f     Fr  :  72-74. 

6.  What  can  be  said  about  the  starch  content  of  potatoes? 

Fr :  72-74.     Gi :  265,  270. 

7.  How  may  varieties  be  classified?     Gi :  21-46. 

8.  How  does  the  character  of  the  soil  affect  the  quality  of  the  tubers? 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  Large  yields  of  potatoes  cannot  be  ob- 
tained without  the  use  of  good  seed.  By  good  seed  is  meant 
solid,  dormant,  disease-free  tubers,  selected  from  high  yielding 
plants.  It  is  not  often  possible  to  buy  seed  that  is  satisfactory 
in  all  these  respects,  especially  with  reference  to  high  yielding 
plants.  This  point,  however,  should  have  consideration  in  the 
home  project,  if  potatoes  are  to  be  grown  the  following  year. 
Numerous  experiments  have  shown  that  it  pays  to  select  seed 
from  healthy  plants  producing  heavy  crops  of  large,  smooth 
tubers.  This  is  a  matter  which  requires  considerable  time,  but 
it  is  time  profitably  spent. 

When  it  is  necessary  to  purchase  seed,  extreme  care  should  be 
exercised.  A  common  practice  is  to  plant  seed  grown  in  a  more 
northern  section,  but  such  seed  has  little  if  any  advantage  over 
home-grown  seed  provided  the  latter  is  produced  intelligently  and 
stored  under  the  most  favorable  conditions.  If  the  tubers  are 
allowed  to  wither  and  produce  long  sprouts  before  they  are  planted, 
satisfactory  results  cannot  be  expected. 

1.  How  and  where  can  you  obtain  good  seed?     Fr:  51. 

2.  What  constitutes  good  seed  ? 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  207 

3.  How  should  seed  be  stored  to  keep  in  good  condition? 

Fr : 53-54. 

4.  Has  northern-grown  seed   any   advantages   over   home-grown  f 

Ft:  51. 

5.  How  would  you  proceed  to  select  your  own  seed? 

Fr : 74.     Gi :  54-85. 


5.  Preparing  the  soil  (W :  63-204).  —  When  making  preparation 
for  a  successful  crop  of  potatoes,  we  should  bear  in  mind  that 
much  will  depend  on  our  skill  in  controlling  soil  moisture.  We 
have  learned  that  this  crop  must  have  a  large  amourif  of  water  if 
a  satisfactory  yield  is  to  be  expected,  and  the  soil  management 
should  be  such  as  will  conserve  as  much  moisture  as  possible  for 
the  benefit  of  the  potatoes. 

Potatoes  are  nearly  always  grown  in  rotation  with  other  crops. 
On  Long  Island  and  in  a  few  other  sections  they  are  grown  on  the 
same  soil  year  after  year,  but  the  practice  should  not  be  recom- 
mended. In  general  farming  regions  red  clover  or  grass  of  some 
kind  nearly  always  precedes  potatoes.  Probably  no  crop  is  better 
for  this  purpose  than  red  clover  because  it  leaves  the  soil  in  a  loose, 
friable  condition  and  makes  large  contributions  to  the  soil  supply 
of  nitrogen  and  organic  matter. 

Stable  manures  are  very  generally  used  for  the  growing  of  po- 
tatoes, and  the  amount  varies  from  10  to  25  tons  to  the  acre.  It 
is  doubtful  whether  the  very  large  applications  of  manure  are  as 
profitable  as  smaller  amounts  —  10  to  15  tons  —  supplemented 
with  commercial  fertilizers.  The  manure,  too,  should  be  at  least 
partially  decayed,  and,  if  possible,  it  should  be  applied  in  the  fall 
before  the  land  is  plowed. 

Fall  plowing  is  always  an  advantage  from  the  standpoint  of 
soil  moisture,  if  the  land  is  harrowed  just  as  early  in  the  spring  as 


208  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

it  is  dry  enough  to  work.  Not  a  day  nor  an  hour  should  be  lost 
in  harrowing,  in  order  that  the  escape  of  moisture  from  surface 
evaporation  may  be  reduced  to  a  minimum.  A  fine  soil  mulch 
should  be  maintained  by  harrowing  until  the  potatoes  are  planted, 
and  then  weeders  and  cultivators  should  be  used  for  the  same 
purpose. 

There  is  a  very  great  difference  in  practices  relative  to  the  use  of 
commercial  fertilizers  for  potatoes.  The  growers  of  early  potatoes 
on  light  sandy  soils  used  an  immense  quantity  of  high-grade 
complete  fertilizer  before  the  World  War.  It  was  not  uncommon 
to  apply  a  ton  of  fertilizer  to  the  acre,  which  contained  4  to  6  per 
cent  of  nitrogen  and  8  to  10  per  cent  of  each  of  the  mineral 
elements. 

When  a  clover  sod  or  other  leguminous  crop  is  plowed  down  for 
late  potatoes  it  is  unnecessary  to  use  as  much  nitrogen  as  for  the 
early  crop,  especially  in  light  soils.  Under  most  conditions  in  the 
North,  it  is  likely  that  2  or  3  per  cent  of  available  nitrogen  in  a 
1000  pound  application  to  the  acre  will  furnish  as  much  nitrogen, 
in  addition  to  the  nitrogen  of  the  legume  plowed  down,  as  will  be 
required  to  secure  a  satisfactory  gro^vth  of  plants.  It  is  admitted 
by  most  growers  that  liberal  amounts  of  the  mineral  elements  are 
essential,  though  very  large  crops  were  grown  during  the  war 
without  applications  of  potash.  Ordinarily,  about  150  pounds  of 
nitrate  of  soda,  500  pounds  of  16%  acid  phosphate,  and  300  pounds 
of  muriate  of  potash,  used  as  a  supplement  to  stable  manure,  or 
after  a  clover  sod  is  plowed  down,  will  give  good  results,  if  other 
conditions  are  favorable.  The  fertilizer,  however,  should  not  be 
applied  until  spring,  when  the  land  is  harrowed.  If  the  plowing 
is  not  done  in  the  fall,  it  should  have  the  earliest  attention  in  the 
spring. 

Inasmuch  as  fresh  lime  encourages  the  development  of  scab  on 
potatoes,  the  liming  should  be  done  in  connection  with  other  crops, 
preferably  the  cereal  which  precedes  the  clover. 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  209 

1.  What  are  some  satisfactory  crops  to  precede  potatoes?    Why 

do  you  think  they  are  desirable  ? 
Fr :  26-29. 

2.  Should  stable  manure   be  used  for  potatoes  ?     If  so,  what 

kind  ?     How  much  ?     When  applied  ? 
Fr :  30,  36-39.     Gi :  130. 

3.  When  should  land  be  plowed  for  this  crop  ?    When  should  it 

be  harrowed? 

4.  Should    commercial    fertilizers    be    employed   for    potatoes? 

Make  specific  recommendations  for  various  conditions. 
Fr:  30-50.     Gi: 113-132. 

5.  What  kinds  and    how  much  fertilizer  will  you  need  for  your 

potato  project? 
Gi:  112-132. 

6.  What  should  he  the  texture  and  structure  of  soils  for  the  growing 

of  this  cropf 

7.  What  are  the  functions  of  Jiitrogen,  potassium,  and  phosphorus  in 

the  growing  of  potatoes  f     Fi  :  31-36.     Gi :  1 19-126. 

8.  Should  lime  he  used  for  potatoes?     If  so,  what  kind,  how  much, 

and  when  applied?     Gi :  124. 

9.  Ascertain   the   character   of  the  fertilizer   treatments   generally 

employed  in  the  leading  potato  growing  districts  of  the  United 
States  and  Canada.     In  European  countries. 

10.    What  lessons  do  the  agricultural  experiment  stations  teach  on 
fertilizer  treatments  f 

6.   When  to  plant.  —  Very  early  potatoes  are  generally  planted 
about  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared  in  the  spring.     Late 


210  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

potatoes  are  planted  in  most  northern  sections  from  about  the 
middle  of  May  until  the  middle  of  June,  or  even  later  sometimes. 
Perhaps  the  safest  guide  as  to  the  time  of  planting  is  to  make  in- 
quiry among  local  growers.  Most  farm  communities  have  one 
or  more  highly  successful  potato  growers  and  their  judgment  in 
this  matter  should  be  a  safe  guide. 

1.  When  do  you  think  potatoes  should  be  planted  in  your  com- 

munity?   What  are  your  reasons   for   selecting  a  certain 
time  ? 

2.  When  are  potatoes  planted  in  the  leading  potato-growing  districts 

of  the  United  States  and  Canada  f      Fr  :  96.     Gi :  142-146. 

3.  What  factors  should  be  considered  in  deciding  on  the  date  of 

planting  f    Fr :  97.     Gi :  142-146. 

7.  Cutting  seed.  —  Yields  are  reduced  by  cutting  the  seed 
several  days  or  more  in  advance  of  planting.  It  is  always  best 
to  cut  the  seed  the  same  day  it  is  planted,  or  at  most  not  more 
than  twenty-four  hours  before  the  cut  pieces  will  be  planted. 

Numerous  experiments  have  been  made  to  determine  the  best 
size  of  the  pieces.  This  depends  upon  a  number  of  factors  such 
as  the  amount  of  seed  available,  cost  of  seed,  fertility  of  the  soil, 
variety  to  be  planted,  culture  given,  and  the  probable  price  that 
will  be  realized  for  the  crop.  Generally  speaking,  the  pieces  should 
be  fairly  large  and  should  contain  at  least  one  good  eye;  two 
are  better.  In  very  rich  garden  soils  the  pieces  need  not  be  so 
large  as  in  poorer  soils.  It  is  desirable  when  possible  to  cut  the 
tubers  so  that  one  or  more  eyes  at  the  stem  end  of  the  tuber  will 
be  included  in  the  piece.  Some  tubers  should  be  halved  through 
the  center  of  the  group  of  eyes  at  the  seed  end.  Larger  tubers  may 
be  quartered  from  end  to  end,  while  others  will  make  three  good 
pieces.     If  the  pieces  are  fairly  large  and  contain  at  least  one  good 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  211 

eye,  they  should  give  satisfactory  results,  other  conditions  being 
favorable. 

From  eleven  to  twelve  bushels  of  seed  to  the  acre  are  generally 
planted  in  America,  though  many  prominent  growers  use  a 
larger  amount. 

1.  What  are  the  factors  that  should  be  considered  in  determining 

the  size  of  seed  pieces?     Fr :  60-62.     Gi:  156. 

2.  How  many  eyes  should  the  pieces  contain? 

Fr:  60-62.     Gi :  157-159. 

3.  Explain  how  the  tubers  should  be  cut.     Fr :  61.      Gi :  157-159. 

4.  How  many  bushels  will  you  need    or  your  project?     Gi :  159. 

5.  Docs  it  pay  to  sprout  potatoes  before  they  are  planted  f     Fr:  54-59. 

6.  What  are  some  of  the  lessons  taught  by  the  agricultural  experiment 

stations  relating  to  the  cutting  of  seed  potatoes  ? 
Fr : 57-69. 

8.  Planting.  —  The  soil  should  be  in  a  fine  state  of  division 
before  starting  to  plant  potatoes.  Most  American  potato  growers 
space  the  rows  SO  to  36  inches  apart,  the  closer  spacing  being 
favorable  to  the  largest  yield.  In  small  gardens  which  are  culti- 
vated with  wheel  hoes,  the  rows,  especially  of  early  varieties,  need 
not  be  more  than  26  inches  apart.  Though  potatoes  are  sometimes 
planted  in  hills,  the  more  common  practice  is  to  distribute  the 
pieces  12  to  14  inches  apart  in  drills.  This  gives  each  plant  the 
best  opportunity  for  development  and  the  plan  is  the  most  favor- 
able for  large  yields. 

The  proper  depth  of  planting  is  a  matter  which  should  have  the 
most  careful  consideration.  In  light,  friable  soils  it  is  universally 
conceded  that  the  seed  should  be  planted  about  four  inches  deep, 
because  this  depth  of  planting  is  most  advantageous  from  the 


212 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


standpoint  of  soil  moisture  and  low  temperature  for  the  roots. 
In  heavy  soils  the  depth  of  planting  should  be  less,  and  then  ridg- 
ing may  be  practiced  about  midsummer  so  as  to  provide  sufficient 
soil  for  the  development  of  the  tubers. 

1.  What  are  the  proper  distances  foi  the  planting  of  potatoes  ? 

Fr : 91-93.     Gi :  146-148. 

2.  How  deep  should  potatoes  be  planted  in  different  types  of  soils  ? 

Fr :  93-96. 

3.  Describe  the  mechanism  and  advaritages  of  an  approved  potato 

planter.     Fr :  98-104. 


9.  Cultivating.  —  The  potato  requires  just  as  thorough  culti- 
vation as  any  other 
garden  crop.  The 
surface  of  the  soil 
must  be  kept  in  a 
fine,  loose  condition. 
Weeders  should  be 
used  immediately 
after  planting  until 
the  plants  are  at 
least  six  inches  high, 
and  then  various 
types  of  cultivators 
may  be  employed.  If 
the  cultivating  is  skill- 

FiG.  55.  — This  illustration  shows  the  potato  leaf  in  fully     managed.    Very 

cross  section,  also  a' portion  of  the  lower  surface.  p  ^         •11  U 

Note  the  vascular  arrangement,  also  the  large  ^^^  WCCGS  Will  UaVC  a 

air  spaces,  and  stomata  ("breathing  spores")-     A  chaUCC  to  grOW  to  any 
film  of  the  proper  material  protects  this  potato 

leaf.  considerable  size. 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  213 

1.  What  implements  will  you  need  to  cultivate  your  potatoes? 

Fr:  107-110.     Gi : 160-169. 

2.  Give  complete  instructions  for  the  season's  tillage  operations. 

Fr: 105-110.     Gi : 160-169. 


10.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  It  is  impossible  to  pro- 
duce a  good  crop  of  potatoes  without  the  proper  control  of  disease 
and  insect  enemies.  Apparently  a  large  percentage  of  commercial 
growers  do  not  fully  appreciate  this  factor  in  the  successful  pro- 
duction of  potatoes. 

If  we  fully  realized  the  function  of  perfect,  healthy  foliage  in 
the  growing  of  large  tubers,  more  attention  would  be  given  to  pro- 
tecting the  leaves  against  the  attack  of  both  insects  and  diseases. 
Let  us  remember  that  the  leaves  are  the  great  laboratories  of  the 
plant  and  that  the  tubers  cannot  develop  without  them.  The 
elements  which  enter  the  plant  through  the  roots  and  leaves  are 
combined  into  starch  in  the  leaves  and  then  transported  through 
the  stem  and  stored  in  the  form  of  tubers.  It  is  readily  seen, 
therefore,  that  any  curtailment  in  leaf  surface,  due  to  the  ravages 
of  insects  and  diseases,  will  certainly  limit  the  plant  in  its  ability 
to  produce  starch  and  tubers.  If  there  is  only  half  a  crop  of 
leaves  we  cannot  expect  more  than  half  a  crop  of  tubers,  while  a 
full  crop  of  leaves,  accompanied  by  favorable  cultural  conditions, 
should  result  in  a  full  crop  of  tubers.  The  problem,  then,  is  how  to 
save  all  the  leaves  in  a  perfect  state  of  health. 

Insects  and  diseases  affecting  the  foliage  may  be  controlled  by 
spraying.  The  first  applications  should  be  made  before  the 
enemies  appear,  and  this  means  soon  after  the  plants  are  up. 
Flea  beetles  may  be  the  first  to  arrive  and  Bordeaux  mixture  will 
repel  them.  Additional  applications  should  be  made  as  often  as 
may  be  necessary  to  keep  the  leaves  well  protected. 

Both  the  upper  and   lower  surfaces  of  the   leaves  must  be 


214 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


thoroughly  covered  with  the  spray  material.  A  film  is  all  that  is 
needed.  What  runs  off  is  wasted.  The  manner  of  applying  the 
material  will  determine  most  often  the  success  or  failure  of  the 
enterprise.  A  potato  grower  can  get  good  results  with  an  atom- 
izer or  knapsack  type  of  outfit  if  he  takes  the  pains.  The  trouble 
is  that  it  is  neither  efficient  nor  economical.     Most  growers  are 


Fig.    56. — A  spraying  machine  doing  effective  work.     High  pressure  (200  pounds), 
proper  nozzle  adjustment,  and  plenty  of  material  (100  gallons  to  the  acre). 


not  willing  to  carry  out  and  apply  by  hand  one  hundred  gallons 
of  Bordeaux  mixture,  per  acre,  per  application.  The  most  eco- 
nomical control  of  the  foliage  diseases  is  accomplished  by  high 
pressure  and  plenty  of  material. 

Bordeaux  mixture  is  generally  employed  to  control  diseases 
and  is  easy  to  make  either  by  the  gallon  or  by  the  hundred  gal- 
lons. All  it  requires  is  (a)  copper  sulphate  (blue  stone),  (6)  stone 
lime,  caustic  lime  (lump  lime),  and  (c)  water.     Place  two  50-gallon 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS 


215 


barrels  beside  the  water  supply.  No  location  is  better  than  right  on 
the  bank  of  a  running  stream  or  pond.  Weigh  50  pounds  of  cop- 
per sulphate  in  a  burlap  sack  and  fasten  as  near  to  the  top  of  one 
of  the  barrels  as  possible.  This  is  accomplished  easily  by  pulling 
the  top  of  the  sack  over  the  edge  of  the  barrel  and  naiUng.    Then 


¥lG.  57.  —  Potatoes:  Middle  lot,  unsprayed  (same  areas  in  each  casf)  ;  to  tlie 
left,  sprayed  (71  bushels  per  acre)  ;  to  the  right,  low  pressure  sprinkling  (30 
bushels'  increase  per  acre). 


fill  the  barrel  with  water.  The  above  operation  should  be  done  a 
few^  hours  at  least  before  the  spraying  begins,  so  that  the  copper 
sulphate  may  have  time  to  dissolve.  Do  not  put  the  copper  sul- 
phate into  the  bottom  of  the  barrel  and  expect  it  to  dissolve. 
Dump  50  pounds  of  stone  lime  into  the  other  barrel,  and  add  w^ater, 
slowly  at  first,  sprinkling  evenly  over  the  lime,  and  as  the  chunks 
begin  to  dry,  add  a  little  more  until  a  vigorous  heat  begins  to 
generate.  Then  add  the  water  rapidly  enough  to  prevent  the 
formation  of  dust,  but  slowly  enough  to  keep  it  the  consistency 
of  thick  mud.  Let  it  cook  until  when  stirred  from  one  side  to  the 
other  it  is  as  smooth  as  butter  and  of  about  the  same  consistency. 


216  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Then  fill  the  barrel  with  water.  You  now  have  50  pounds  of 
copper  sulphate  in  50  gallons  of  water,  and  50  pounds  of 
lime  in  50  gallons  of  water.  This  will  make  625  gallons 
of  Bordeaux  mixture  and  is  enough  to  spray  six  acres  once. 
The  remainder  of  the  operation  is  also  quite  simple.  Place  the 
spray  rig  most  conveniently  for  filling.  Fill  about  one  third  full  of 
water  and  add  (assuming  that  the  tank  holds  100  gallons)  8  gallons 
from  the  lime  barrel.  Stir  well.  Then  add  more  water  until  the 
tank  is  about  three  quarters  full,  and  add  8  gallons,  well  stirred, 
from  the  copper  sulphate  barrel,  and  fill  the  rest  of  the  way  full 
with  water.  The  tank  now  contains  100  gallons  of  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture of  the  standard  4-4-5  formula  or  8-8-100,  costing  80  cents. 
The  whole  operation  takes  about  30  minutes.  It  makes 
spraying  a  one-man  job.  There  is  no  mixing  and  stirring  to  get 
the  material  into  the  tank,  and  there  is  no  clogging  of  nozzles. 
Spraying  with  Bordeaux  controls  the  foliage  diseases  known  as 
late  blight  and  early  blight.  The  Bordeaux  mixture  never  burns 
the  foliage  and  is  a  splendid  carrier  of  insecticides,  such  as  Paris 
green,  the  arsenicals,  and  nicotine.  Many  times  spraying  with 
Bordeaux  results  in  an  increased  crop  even  when  diseases  are  not 
present  to  any  extent. 

Rolling  of  the  leaves,  a  curly  appearance,  deformation  of  the 
leaves,  or  a  dwarfed  condition  of  the  plant,  are  evidences  of  dis- 
eases known  as  leaf-roll  and  mosaic.  Such  diseases  are  trans- 
mitted from  one  generation  to  another  by  the  tubers,  and  when 
they  make  their  appearance  care  must  be  taken  in  the  selection 
of  seed  tubers. 

The  tubers  are  often  disfigured  by  scab,  which  may  be  pre- 
vented by  treating  the  seed  potatoes  with  a  formaldehyde  solution 
(1  pint  to  30  gallons  of  water)  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 

1.    What  is  the  function  of  foliage  in  growing  a  crop  of  potatoes? 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  217 

2.  When  should  potatoes  be  sprayed  ? 

3.  What  kind  of  sprayer  would  you  select  ? 

4.  How  should  the  spray  material  be  applied  ? 

5.  What  do  you  recommend  for  combating  diseases  of  potatoes  ? 

Insect  enemies  ? 

6.  How  should  the  spray  material  be  prepared  ? 

The  potato  flea  beetle,  which  is  also  common  on  tomato  plants, 
retards  the  growth  of  potato  plants  because  it  feeds  on  the 
first  unfolding  leaves,  and  especially  on  earlier  varieties  where 
it  causes  extensive  reductions  in  the  number  of  tubers. 

The  Colorado  potato  beetle,  originally  feeding  on  the  Buffalo 
Bur,  Solariu7ri  rostratum,  west  of  the  Missouri  River,  has  spread 
across  the  country  more  rapidly  than  any  other  pest  of  late  years. 
The  beetle  passes  the  winter  as  an  adult  under  rubbish  or  in  the 
soil.  Just  about  the  time  early  planted  potatoes  appear,  the  beetles 
emerge,  feed  on  the  tender  foliage,  and  then  lay  their  orange  yellow 
eggs  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  The  dark  red  black-headed 
grubs  hatch  in  four  to  nine  days,  and  when  mature  enter  the  soil 
to  pupate.  The  adults  emerge  about  five  or  ten  days  later.  After 
feeding  for  a  short  time  they  may  go  into  the  ground  for  a  resting 
period,  or  lay  eggs  for  a  second  generation.  Normally  all  stages 
may  be  found  throughout  the  summer.  Arsenical  poisons  are 
effective  control  measures,  especially  if  applied  as  soon  as  the 
grubs  hatch.  Although  a  slower  poison  than  other  compounds, 
arsenate  of  lead  is  being  more  generally  used,  because  it  seldom 
injures  the  foliage.  Four  or  five  pounds  of  lead  arsenate  are 
used  to  each  acre  to  be  sprayed.  One  hundred  gallons  of  spray 
will  be  suflScient  to  cover  an  acre  of  potatoes. 


218 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


While  the  potato  aphis  is  generally  prevalent,  few  areas  have 
reported  outbreaks.  In  certain  regions  it  causes  severe  damage, 
sucking  the  plant  juices,  and  wilting  the  plant.  Leaves  when 
attacked  curl  downward,  the  blossoms  are  killed,  and  the  tubers 

dwarfed.  The  lice  are  usually 
of  a  green  color,  but  some  indi- 
viduals are  pink.  Eggs  are  laid 
on  roses  or  other  perennials  in 
the  fall,  but  do  not  hatch  until 
the  following  spring.  The  stem- 
mothers  and  their  progeny  live 
on  these  plants  for  one  or  two 
generations,  and  then  migrate  to 
potatoes  to  breed  until  the  ap- 
proach of  winter  when  sexual 
forms  migrate  to  the  rose.  Spray- 
ing with  Black  Leaf  40,  ^  pint  to 
50  gallons  of  Bordeaux  mixture, 
or  with  the  same  amount  of  Black 
Leaf  40  and  water  to  which  3  or  4  pounds  of  dissolved  soap  have 
been  added,  may  be  effective.  At  least  100  gallons  of  the  mix- 
ture are  required  to  cover  an  acre,  the  spray  being  directed  upward 
by  angle  nozzles,  so  as  to  drench  the  under  side  of  the  foliage. 

1.  What  is  the  cause  of  "  pimply  "  potatoes?     CL  :  316. 

2.  Is  control  practical  in  large  potato  fields?     CL  :  317. 

3.  What  are  some  other  flea  beetles  on  general  crops  ?      CL  :  318-337. 

4.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  Colorado  potato  beetle  ? 

CL :  145-146. 


Fig.  58.  —  Potato  flea-beetle  injuries. 


5.    Summarize  briefly  its  migration  across  the  United  States. 
CL :  142-144. 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  219 

6.  Name  several  arsenical  pouons  and  describe  their  use  on  potatoes. 

CL:  147-148. 

7.  When  should  the  spray  be  applied?     CL  :  148. 

8.  What  is  another  common  potato  beetle?     CL  :  149. 

9.  What  are  the  host  plants  of  the  potato  aphis?    CL :  151. 

10.  What  is  its  life  history?     CL  :  151-152. 

11.  Describe  the  appearance  of  an  injured  plant.     CL  :  152. 

12.  How  should  potato  mnes  be  sprayed  for  aphis,  and  mth  what 

material?     CL :  153. 

13.  Nam.e  other  serious  pests  of  white  potatoes.     CL :  155-167. 

11  Harvesting.  -Early  potatoes  may  be  dug  whenever  they 
have  attained  a  marketable  size,  though  it  may  be  profitable  to 
let  them  grow  to  full  maturity.  This  will  depend  mainly  on  market 
prices  Late  potatoes,  unless  there  is  an  unusual  demand,  should 
not  be  dug  until  the  tops  are  practically  dead  or  there  is  danger 
of  the  tubers  freezing  in  the  ground.  As  long  as  the  tops  are 
green,  starch  will  be  formed  and  stored  in  the  tubers,  thus  improv- 
ing their  quality.  .  ^„ 

A  great  varietv  of  tools  are  used  for  diggmg  potatoes,     it 
nothing  else  is  available,  an  ordinary  mold-board   plow  may  be 
employed,  followed  by  a  spike-tooth  harrow.     The  various  types 
of  special  diggers  are  generally  regarded  as  great  labor-savers. 
1.   When  should  early  potatoes  be  dug?    Late  potatoes? 
Fr : 143.     Gi :  226-230. 

2    What  are  some  of  the  best  tools  for  digging  potatoes? 
Fr: 143-146.     Gi:  230-232. 


220  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

12.  Storing  and  marketing.  —  A  fairly  moist  atmosphere  and  a 
temperature  of  33°  F.  are  most  favorable  for  the  storage  of  po- 
tatoes. The  tubers  are  easily  injured  by  frost,  and  they  soon 
shrivel  and  become  inferior  in  quality  when  kept  in  dry,  warm 
rooms.  Moist  cellars  and  caves  furnish  the  best  conditions  for 
the  storage  of  this  crop. 

The  grading  of  potatoes  is  becoming  more  popular,  and  it  may 
be  the  means  of  materially  increasing  the  returns  per  acre.  Crates, 
barrels,  baskets,  and  sacks  are  used  in  the  marketing  of  this  crop. 

1.  What  are  the    most  favorable  conditions  for  the  storage  of 

potatoes  ?     Fr :  147-152.     Gi :  236-258. 

2.  Do  you  have  suitable  storage  facilities  for  this  crop  ? 

3.  How  will  it  pay  you  best  to  market  your  crop  ? 

Project  XIV.     Growing  Sweet  Potatoes 

The  sweet  potato  belongs  to  the  Morning  Glory  family.  There 
are  several  other  species  here  of  economic  importance,  wild  sweet 
potato  vine  and  the  bindweeds  as  weeds,  and  moon-flowers  and 
morning  glory  as  ornamentals.  The  family  has  a  wide  distribu- 
tion but  is  most  abundant  in  the  tropics.  The  sweet  potato  is  a 
native  of  the  West  Indies  and  Central  America.  This  accounts 
for  the  fact  that  it  does  best  in  a  warm  climate. 

The  sweet  potato  plant  is  a  trailing,  twining,  perennial  plant,  i.e., 
lives  year  after  year.  The  enlarged  underground  parts  are  some- 
times called  "  tubers  "  or  "  root  tubers  "  but  they  are  in  reality 
roots  and  not  genuine  tubers  as  in  the  Irish  potato.  The  leaves 
are  arranged  alternately  on  the  stems  and  are  heart-shaped  in  gen- 
eral outline.  The  flowers  are  large,  funnel-form  in  shape,  and  purple 
in  color.  There  are  several  types  or  varieties  of  sweet  potatoes. 
The  varieties  differ  somewhat  in  the  shape  and  size  of  the  roots 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  221 

or  potatoes  and  also  in  the  outline  of  the  leaves,  but  the  most 
common  method  of  dividing  them  into  groups  is  on  the  basis  of  the 
amount  of  water  and  sugar  present  in  the  potatoes.  The  ones 
with  a  dry,  mealy,  yellow  flesh  are  usually  called  sweet  potatoes 
and  are  mostly  used  in  the  northern  states.  In  this  class  belongs 
the  Jersey  sweet  potato,  in  which  the  roots  are  spindle-shaped. 
The  so-called  yams  have  a  watery  flesh,  are  sweeter,  and  are  soft 
and  jelly-like  when  cooked.  These  are  most  used  in  the  southern 
states.  They  should  not  be  confused  with  genuine  yams,  which 
belong  to  another  family,  closely  related  to  the  lily  family.  Several 
species  of  insects,  such  as  tortoise  beetles,  flea  beetles,  or  the  sweet 
potato  weevil,  occasionally  harm  this  crop,  but  the  injury,  except 
from  weevil,  is  usually  not  extensive. 

1.  What  are  some  of  the  close  relatives  of  the  sweet  potato  ? 

2.  What  is  the  nature  of  the  part  of  the  plant  called  the  **  potato  "  ? 

3.  How  do  so-called  yams  differ  from  ordinary  sweet  potatoes? 

4.  What  insects  affect  the  sweet  potato? 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  sweet  potatoes? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Starting  plants. 

6.  Preparing  soil. 

7.  Planting. 

8.  Cultivating. 

9.  Harvesting. 

10.   Storing  and  marketing. 


222  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  Why  grow  sweet  potatoes  ?  —  In  most  parts  of  the  North, 
gardeners  who  are  looking  for  real  business  opportunities  will  not 
attempt  the  culture  of  sweet  potatoes.  However,  there  are  sec- 
tions along  the  Atlantic  Coast,  especially  in  New  Jersey,  as  well 
as  in  the  Central  West,  where  the  crop  is  highly  profitable,  and 
where  it  deserves  serious  consideration  as  a  business  proposition. 
Students  are  referred  to  the  literature  on  the  subject,  which  is  excel- 
lent and  quite  extensive.  If  soil  and  climatic  conditions  are  favor- 
able, and  sweet  potatoes  of  the  highest  quality  can  be  grown,  the 
crop  may  offer  just  as  great  inducements  as  any  other  vegetable. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  sweet  potatoes? 

2.  Are  sweet  potatoes  produced  at  a  profit  in  your  neighborhood  f 

3.  What  is  known  about  the  botanical  history  of  the  sweet  potato  f 

W-VG:435.     C:421.    Fi :  7.     W:220. 

4.  What  is  its  importance  as  a  food  crop  in  the  United  States? 

W-VG  :  435.     C  :  421-422.     Fi :  14-19. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  The  sweet  potato  plant  is  very  tender 
to  cold  and  demands  a  high  temperature  and  a  long  season.  For 
these  reasons  it  is  mainly  a  southern  crop.  The  soil  must  also  be 
perfectly  drained,  warm,  loose,  and  friable.  Soils  containing  a 
high  percentage  of  sand  with  a  fairly  retentive  subsoil  are  ideal 
for  this  crop.  There  should  also  be  an  ample  supply  of  plant 
food. 

1.  What  are  the  most  suitable  climatic  conditions  for  the  growing 

of  sweet  potatoes  ?     W-VG  :  439.     L :  254.     Fi :  19. 

2.  What  kinds  of  soil  are  best  for  the  growing  of  sweet  potatoes? 

W-VG:  439.    L:254.     C :  422.    Fi:21. 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  223 

3.    Describe  the  soil  and  climatic  conditions  in  the    United  States 
where  sweet  potatoes  are  grown  most  extensively. 
L  :  254.     Fi :  21-24. 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  Varieties  of  sweet  potatoes  differ 
greatly  in  the  shape,  color,  and  quality  of  the  tubers.  Some  of 
the  most  important  varieties  are  Big-Stem  Jersey,  Yellow  Jersey, 
Southern  Queen,  Pumpkin  Yam,  Georgia  Yam,  Red  Bermuda, 
Florida,  Pierson,  Black  Spanish,  and  Shanghai.  The  Big-Stem 
Jersey  is  the  most  popular  on  the  northern  and  eastern  markets. 

1.  What  varieties  of  sweet  potatoes  do  your  neighbors  grow? 

2.  What  variety  do  you  think  you  should  grow?     What  are  your 

reasons  for  selecting  it? 

3.  What  are  the  leading  varieties  grown  in  the  United  States  and  what 

are  their  chief  characteristics  ? 
W-VG  :  436-439.     C:431.    Fi :  8-13. 

4.  How  do  sweet  potatoes  differ  in  the  character  of  the  flesh? 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  Tubers  of  medium  size  are  generally 
preferred  for  seed.  They  should  be  free  from  disease  and  handled 
with  care  to  prevent  bruising.  Growers  sometimes  make  selec- 
tions of  seed  at  harvest  time.  Two  to  four  bushels  of  medium  size 
seed  are  required  to  make  enough  plants  for  an  acre.  When  two 
lots  of  plants  are  grown  from  the  same  seed,  a  bushel  should  pro- 
duce 2000  to  2500  plants. 

1.  What  kind  of  seed  should  be  chosen  for  the  best  results? 

W-VG :  440. 

2.  How  many  bushels  of  seed  are  required  for  an  acre?    For 

your  project  ?    W-VG  :  440. 


224  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  What  are  the  objections  to  the  use  of  very  small  or  very  large  tubers 

for  seed  purposes  f 

W-VG:440.    Fi:  24-31. 

4.  How  should  the  seed  be  kept  until  time  to  start  the  plants? 

W-VG  :  448.     C  :  428.     Fi :  80.* 

5.  Starting  plants.  —  In  the  extreme  South  sweet  potatoes  are 
sometimes  cut  into  pieces  which  are  planted  in  the  open  very 
much  in  the  same  manner  as  white  potatoes.  However,  in  most 
regions,  and  especially  in  the  North,  the  plants  are  started  under 
cover  in  some  kind  of  forcing  device  or  house.  A  well-constructed 
hotbed  (W :  44)  will  serve  the  purpose.  Small,  inexpensive 
houses,  covered  with  glass  or  canvas,  heated  by  steam,  hot 
water,  or  manure,  are  often  employed.  It  is  nearly  always  neces- 
sary to  supply  a  certain  amount  of  bottom  heat.  Beds  are  made 
with  a  few  inches  of  fine,  sandy  soil.  The  tubers,  either  whole 
or  cut  in  halves  with  the  cut  surfaces  down,  are  placed  on  the  bed 
so  that  they  do  not  touch  each  other,  covered  with  about  three 
inches  of  fine  sandy  soil,  and  watered.  At  the  time  of  bedding  the 
temperature  of  the  bed  should  be  about  80°  F.  and  be  gradually 
dropped  to  about  60°  F.,  covering  a  period  of  six  weeks.  Plants 
will  start  from  the  tubers.  In  six  weeks  they  should  be  well  rooted 
and  of  proper  size  for  setting  in  the  field.  The  plants  started 
in  this  manner  are  referred  to  as  ''slips,"  "draws,"  and  "sets." 
They  may  be  removed  and  a  second  lot  of  plants  grown  from  the 
same  tubers  or  seed  pieces. 

1.   Explain  how  sweet  potato  plants  are  started  in  practically  all 
districts. 
W-VG  :  441-444.     L:255.     C  :  423.     Fi :  24-31. 

6.  Preparing  the  soil.— W:  222.  While  a  thoroughly  drained 
soil  is  essential  to  the  culture  of  sweet  potatoes,  we  should  bear  in 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  225 

mind  that  there  must  be  an  abundance  of  soil  moisture  at  the  time 
of  transplanting  to  insure  the  success  of  this  operation,  and  all 
preliminary  tillage  should  be  managed  with  this  in  view.  It  is 
also  exceedingly  important  to  follow  a  system  of  cropping  that 
will  effectively  destroy  weed  seeds.  If  cultivated  crops  are  grown 
the  preceding  year,  they  should  have  the  most  thorough  tillage 
so  that  no  weeds  will  go  to  seed.  Crimson  clover  is  a  desirable 
manurial  crop  to  plow  down  for  sweet  potatoes. 

Commercial  fertilizers  are  universally  employed  for  sweet 
potatoes.  It  is  customary  to  use  some  nitrogen,  3  or  4  per  cent, 
but  an  excessive  amount  should  be  avoided  because  it  stimulates 
too  much  vine  growth  without  a  corresponding  development  of 
tubers.  The  mineral  elements  are  essential  and  there  should  be 
no  uncertainty  about  the  required  amount  of  both  potash  and 
phosphoric  acid ;  1000  pounds  to  the  acre  of  a  3-7-10  fertilizer 
should  be  satisfactory  under  most  conditions.  It  should  be 
applied  before  planting  and  mixed  very  thoroughly  with  the  soil. 
Well-decayed  stable  manure  can  be  used  to  advantage,  especially 
in  thin  soils. 

1.  What  are  the  best  crops  to  precede  sweet  potatoes? 

W-VG :  444. 

2.  What  preparatory  tillage  operations  are  necessary  ? 

W-VG:  444.     Fi:31. 

3.  What  fertilizer  treatment  do  you  recommend  for  sweet  potatoes  ? 

W-VG  :  444.     C  :  423. 

4.  What  lessons  do  the  Experiment  Stations  teach  relative  to  fertilizing 

sweet  potatoes  f    W-VG  :  445. 

7.  Planting.  —  Sweet  potato  plants  should  not  be  set  out 
until  they  are  well  rooted,  and  until  the  ground  is  thoroughly 
warm  and  the  danger  of  frost  past.     Either  before  or  after  a  rain 


226  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

is  desirable,  because  of  more  favorable  soil  moisture  conditions. 
If  the  ground  is  quite  dry  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  it  will  be 
an  advantage  to  puddle  the  roots  and  to  use  a  little  water  with 
each  plant.  The  plants  are  generally  set  14  to  18  inches  apart 
with  36  to  42  inches  between  rows.  From  8000  to  12,000  plants 
are  generally  set  on  an  acre  of  land. 

1.  When  should  sweet  potato  plants  be  set  in  the  open  ground? 

W-VG:446.    Fi :  33-35. 

2.  What  are  the  proper  planting  distances  ? 

W-VG  :  446.     L :  255.     C  :  426. 

3.  How  many  plants  will  you  need  for  your  project? 

8.  Cultivating.  —  W :  44.  Tillage  should  begin  as  soon  as 
possible  after  planting.  It  is  customary  to  work  the  soil  between 
the  rows  up  to  the  plants  so  as  to  form  broad,  flat  ridges.  Suitable 
cultivators  are  used  until  the  vines  render  tillage  impossible. 

1.   What  tools  will  you  need  to  cultivate  the  sweet  potatoes  ? 
Fi :  36-42. 


9.  Harvesting.  —  Though  sweet  potatoes  are  palatable  before 
they  have  attained  full  size,  the  general  practice  is  not  to  dig  them 
until  they  have  reached  maturity.  It  is  desirable  to  harvest 
them  before  frost  has  injured  the  vines,  and  when  the  ground  is 
dry  and  there  is  bright  sunny  weather.  The  tubers  should  be 
allowed  to  dry  in  the  field  for  a  few  hours  and  then  be  taken  to 
either  temporary  or  permanent  storage. 

1.  What  is  the  proper  time  and  what  are  the  best  conditions  for  the 

harvesting  of  sweet  potatoes  ? 
W-VG:  448.     L  :  257.     C  :  428.     Fi :  42. 

2.  What  implements  are  used  for  this  purpose  ? 

W-VG:  447.    L:257.    C  :  428. 


TUBER  CROP  PROJECTS  227 

10.  Storing  and  marketing.  —  A  fairly  high  temperature  and  a 
dry  atmosphere  are  necessary  for  the  successful  storage  of  sweet 
potatoes.  In  the  large  commercial  storage  houses  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  85°  F.  is  maintained  while  the  crop  is  being  stored 
and  for  about  ten  days  afterward  and  then  the  temperature  is 
dropped  to  about  55°  F. 

Sweet  potatoes  are  sold  in  a  great  variety  of  packages,  including 
barrels,  baskets,  and  hampers  of  various  descriptions. 

1.  What  are  the  requisites  for  the  successful  storage  of  sweet 

potatoes  ? 
W-VG:448.    L:257.     C  :  428.    Fi :  46. 

2.  What  is  the  best  method  of  grading  and  packing  your  crop  for 

market?    C:430. 


CHAPTER  EIGHT 
BULB    CROP   PROJECTS 

Onion,  Give,  Leek,  Garlic,  Shallot 

The  group  of  bulb  crops  comprises  onion,  leek,  cive,  garlic,  and 
shallot.  They  not  only  belong  to  the  same  family  but  are  in 
fact  different  species  of  the  same  genus  or  group.  All  of  these 
plants  form  bulbs  similar  in  general  structure  to  the  onion  bulb. 
Gives  (spelled  also  chives)  and' shallot  have  cylindrical  hollow 
leaves.  In  cives  or  chives  the  bulbs  are  very  small  and  the  plants 
grow  in  dense  clumps.  In  shallot  the  bulbs  are  of  fair  size  and  the 
plants  do  not  form  clumps.  Leek  and  garlic  have  flat  solid  leaves. 
In  garlic  the  bulbs  are  made  up  of  several  secondary  bulbs  or 
bulbils  inclosed  in  a  white  skin.  Both  the  bulbils,  often  referred 
to  as  cloves,  and  the  leaves  are  used  for  seasoning.  The  leaves 
of  garlic  are  very  narrow.  The  leaves  of  leek  are  broad  and  the 
bulbs  small.  Of  this  group  the  onion  is  by  far  the  most  important. 
All  of  these  vegetables  are  hardy  and  may  be  grown  successfully 
in  any  fertile,  well-drained  soil,  though  sandy  loams  are  preferred. 
They  thrive  best  in  soils  abounding  in  vegetable  matter. 

Project  XV.     Growing  Onions 

The  onion  belongs  to  the  lily  family.  This  family  does  not 
include  many  crop  plants ;  the  only  other  of  great  importance 
aside  from  the  onion  is  asparagus.  Numerous  cultivated  orna- 
mentals belong  here,  such  as  lilies,  tulips,  hyacinths,  and  Spanish 
bayonets.  Wild  garlic,  which  is  one  of  the  worst  weeds,  is  a  close 
relative  of  the  onion. 

228 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS  229 

Onions  have  been  cultivated  since  the  earliest  history  of  Egypt, 
India,  and  China.  It  is  believed  that  the  common  onion  does 
not  now  grow  except  under  cultivation.  Five  hundred  years  ago 
the  onion  was  common  in  Europe.  The  early  colonists  brought 
it  to  America. 

The  portion  of  the  onion  plant  which  is  usually  known  as  the 
onion  is  a  bulb.  Bulbs  are  underground  structures  consisting 
of  short,  usually  conical  stems,  with  many  fleshy  overlapping 
leaf-bases.  Bulbs  are  food-storage  organs.  The  food  is  stored 
in  the  thickened  bases  of  the  leaves,  and  these  constitute  the 
portion  which  we  eat.  The  roots  are  fibrous,  growing  from  the 
basal  stem.  The  upper  parts  of  the  leaves  are  thick,  fleshy,  and 
hollow.  The  older  leaves  are  on  the  outside.  From  the  little 
conical  stem  at  the  base  of  the  bulb  is  sent  up  a  long,  leafless  stem, 
often  hollow,  which  bears  the  flowers  in  a  compact  group  at  the  top. 
In  the  common  onion,  this  stem,  or  scape  as  it  is  called,  is  two  or 
three  feet  high,  smooth,  and  enlarged  near  the  middle.  Bulblets 
(small  bulbs)  are  sometimes  produced  along  with  the  flowers  at 
the  top  of  the  scape.  These  forms  are  known  as  *'  top  or  tree  " 
onions.  These  bulblets  may  be  used  for  propagation.  Some  forms 
have  compound  bulbs  which  will  separate  into  numerous  bulbs,  thus 
furnishing  another  method  of  propagation.  These  are  known  as 
''multipliers."  Other  forms  are  propagated  by  true  seeds  and  by 
"  sets,"  which  are  small  bulbs  grown  from  seed  and  checked  in 
their  development.  The  seeds  are  black,  flattish  on  one  side, 
convex  on  the  other.  In  addition  to  the  manner  of  propagation, 
onions  differ  greatly  in  shape,  color,  and  size  of  bulbs,  quality,  and 
time  of  maturing.  There  also  are  marked  differences  between  the 
so-called  foreign  types,  such  as  Bermuda,  Spanish,  and  Italian 
onions,  and  the  American  types. 

1.  How  long  have  onions  been  cultivated  ? 

2.  What  is  a  bulb  ?    A  bulblet  ? 


230  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  Where  and  when  are  flowers  produced  ? 

4.  What  are  the  three  types  of  onion  based  on  methods  of  propaga- 

tion? 

5.  What  is  an  onion  "  set  "  ? 

6.  What  is  meant  by  foreign  and  domestic  types  of  onions  ? 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  onions  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed  and  sets. 

5.  Starting  plants  under  glass. 

6.  Preparing  soil. 

7.  Planting  sets. 

8.  Sowing  in  the  field. 

9.  Transplanting  hotbed-grown  plants. 

10.  Cultivating. 

11.  Weeding. 

12.  Thinning. 

13.  Irrigating. 

14.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

15.  Marketing  bunch  onions. 

16.  Harvesting  mature  bulbs. 

17.  Storing. 

18.  Marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  onions  ?  — The  onion  is  one  of  the  most  important 
of  the  vegetables  grown  for  American  markets.  Millions  of 
bushels  are  grown  annually  in  great  commercial  plantations, 
under  the  most  favorable  conditions,  and  it  is  a  favorite  crop 
among    thousands  of  market   gardeners.     At   least   fair   success 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS  231 

in  its  culture  may  be  obtained  in  almost  any  properly  treated  soil 
and  it  offers  rather  unusual  possibilities  for  profit  in  the  best 
garden  loams.  The  crop  appeals  especially  to  the  grower  who 
is  greatly  limited  in  the  area  available  for  gardening,  because  of 
its  adaptability  to  the  most  intensive  systems  of  cultivation. 
When  good  markets  are  near  at  hand,  handsome  profits  may  be 
made  on  very  small  plots. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  onions?    If  so,  what  reasons  can  you 

give  for  selecting  this  crop  ?     C  :  308. 

2.  Of  what  importance  is  the  onion  as  a  food  crop  in  the  United 

States  '!     hi  other  countries  ?     W-VG  :  380.     L :  162. 

3.  To  what  extent  are  onions  imported  to  the  United  States  f 

W-VG :  380. 


2.  Selecting  location.  —  W :  228.  As  previously  stated,  onions 
may  be  grown  successfully  in  any  good,  well-drained  soil.  How- 
ever, this  crop  should  be  planted,  if  possible,  in  soils  abounding 
in  vegetable  matter  and  in  available  plant  food.  If  the  largest 
bulbs  are  to  be  grown,  soil  conditions  must  be  as  perfect  as  possible. 
The  largest  areas  of  onions  are  on  muck  soils,  which  indicates  at 
once  the  importance  of  humus  for  this  crop.  Sandy  loams  are 
also  largely  employed  for  the  growing  of  onions.  Good  results 
are  obtained  in  all  types  of  loose,  friable  soils,  and  if  their  structure 
is  not  naturally  favorable  for  this  plant,  especially  liberal  addi- 
tions of  rotten  manure  will  be  necessary. 

The  onion  is  a  "  cool  "  crop  and  it  thrives  in  all  northern  climates, 
as  well  as  in  the  South  when  advantage  is  taken  of  the  cooler 
months. 

It  is  an  advantage  in  drilling  seed  and  in  all  tillage  operations 
to  use  soil  that  is  at  least  fairly  level. 


232 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


1.  What  are  the  most  favorable  soil  conditions  for  the  growing  of 

onions?     W-VG  :  384.     L:163.     C  :  310. 

2.  What  types  of  soil  should  be  chosen,  if  possible,  for  the  growing 

of  onions  ?     W-VG  :  384.     L  :  163.     C  :  310. 




1 

^  ^^'■""■' 

-4 

Fig.  59.  —  A  basket  of  onions  suitable  for  exhibition  purposes.     Different  color 
bulbs  should  not  be  displayed  together. 

3.  What  climatic  conditions  does  the  onion  prefer  ? 

W-VG:  383.     L:  162. 

4.  Where  is  this  crop  most  largely  grown  for  commercial  purposes? 

0:310. 

5.  What  can  be  said  in  favor  of  muck  soils  for  the  groiving  of  onions  f 

W-VG  :  384.     C  :  310. 


3.   Choosing  varieties.  —  There  are  so  many  different  varieties 
of  onions  that  the  amateur  grower  may  have  difficulty  in  deciding 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS  233 

which  ones  to  plant.  Some  general  decisions  must  be  reached 
first.  Does  the  market  for  which  the  onions  are  to  be  grown 
want  yellow,  red,  or  white  bulbs?  American  varieties  or  the 
milder  European  type  ?  Bunch  onions  or  mature  bulbs  ?  Early 
mature  bulbs  or  late  ones  ? 

If  the  plants  are  to  be  started  under  glass  (W :  234),  the  Prize- 
taker  should  have  first  place.  It  is  a  very  large,  mild,  yellow 
bulb,  unusually  well  adapted  to  the  "  new  onion  culture  "  method, 
which  consists  in  starting  the  plants  under  glass  and  transplant- 
ing later  to  the  open  ground. 

Southport  Yellow  Globe  and  Danvers  are  the  leading  yellow 
sorts  for  sowing  in  the  field,  Weathersfield  is  the  leading  red 
variety,  and  Silver  Skin  the  most  popular  white  sort  for  field 
sowing.  Sets  of  all  these  varieties  may  be  grown  or  purchased. 
Silver  Skin  sets  are  planted  more  extensively  than  any  other 
white  variety. 

1.  What  varieties  do  you  think  will  pay  you  best  to  grow  ?    What 

are  your  reasons  ?     W-VG  :  381.     L  :  172. 

2.  Name  and  describe  the  leading  varieties. 

W-VG:  381.     0:308-309.     Catalogues. 

3.  How  may  onions  be  classified  ? 

W-VG  :  381-383.     C  :  308-309. 

4.  What  varieties  are  imported  to  the   United  States  and  from  what 

countries?    L:172. 

5.  What  varieties  should  be  planted  in  the  fall?     Why? 

W-VG  :  383.     C  :  308-309. 

6.  What  varieties  should  he  planted  for  early  maturity  ? 

W-VG  :  382.     L :  172. 

7.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  the  onion? 

W-VG:  380.     C  :  308. 


234  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

4.  Obtaining  seed  and  sets.  —  There  is  a  great  difference  in 
onion  seed  and  sets,  and  too  much  care  cannot  be  exercised 
in  trying  to  obtain  the  best  quahty.  Buy  from  the  most  reliable 
dealers.  Seed  more  than  a  year  old  will  not  produce  a  good  stand 
of  plants.  Sets  should  be  of  size  desired,  uniform  and  solid.  Both 
sets  and  seed  may  be  grown  at  home  if  desired. 

1.  Where  can  you  obtain  high-grade  geed  and  sets  ?     Consult  local 

growers.     Seed  catalogues. 

2.  What  should  be  the  maximum  age  of  seed? 

W-VG  :  385.     C  :  312. 

5.  Starting  plants  under  glass.  —  W  :  44-45.  Prizetaker  seed 
is  often  sown  in  hotbeds  and  greenhouses.  The  growing  of  the 
plants  under  glass  is  a  simple  matter,  though  the  plants  are  more 
susceptible  to  damping-off  fungi  than  most  other  vegetables 
(\y:74).  This  trouble  may  be  controlled  to  a  large  extent  by 
steam  sterilization  of  the  soil. 

The  transplanting  method  has  several  advantages,  such  as  the 
production  of  larger  bulbs,  earlier  onions,  and  a  very  great  in- 
crease in  the  yield.  The  system  appeals  strongly  to  many  growers 
who  strive  for  the  maximum  yields  to  the  acre. 

Beds  or  flats  may  be  used  for  starting  the  plants.  Any  rich, 
loose  garden  soil  will  be  satisfactory  for  this  purpose.  The  seed 
should  be  sown  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep  and  three  inches  apart. 
Most  growers  prefer  to  sow  the  seed  at  least  ten  weeks  in  advance 
of  the  date  of  transplanting  in  the  field,  which  should  be  after  the 
hardest  frosts  are  past.  Ten  to  twelve  seeds  to  the  inch  should  give 
a  good  stand  of  plants,  and  this  should  produce  8000  to  9000 
plants  per  3X6  foot  sash.  A  temperature  suitable  for  other 
plants  that  may  be  in  the  hotbed  will  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
onions.  After  the  plants  reach  the  height  of  about  five  inches  they 
are  cut  back  weekly  to  four  inches  to  make  them  more  stocky. 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS  235 

1.  What  is  meant  by  the  "  new  onion  culture  "  ? 

W-VG:390.     L  :  172.     C  :  313. 

2.  What  varieties  may  be  sown  to  advantage  under  glass  ? 

W-VG  :  390.     L  :  173. 

3.  What  are  the  advantages  in  starting  onions  under  glass  ? 

W-VG:  390.     L:173.     C  :  313. 

4.  Describe  the  details  of  growing  the  plants. 

W-VG:  391.     C:314. 

5.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  ? 

6.  How  many  sash,  mats,  and  flats  will  you  require  ? 

7.  What  are  the  disadvantages  of  this  system  ? 


6.  Preparing  soil.  —  W  :  231 .  Since  the  onion  does  best  in  cool, 
moist  soils,  it  is  generally  desirable  to  plow  or  spade  the  land  late 
in  the  fall  of  the  year  so  that  there  will  be  no  unnecessary  delay 
in  starting  the  crop  the  following  spring.  Plow  under  a  liberal 
amount  of  manure  in  the  fall.  If  fall  plowing  is  not  feasible,  this 
operation  should  have  the  earliest  attention  in  the  spring. 

The  presence  of  weeds  in  large  numbers  is  a  trouble  which  must 
be  guarded  against  in  every  possible  way.  Not  a  weed  should  be 
allowed  to  ripen  seed  the  preceding  year  on  the  plot  which  is  to 
be  used  for  onions.  This  will  require  the  most  thorough  tillage. 
Nor  should  we  lose  sight  of  the  fact  that  the  soil  should  be  very 
fine  and  moist  when  the  time  arrives  for  planting,  which  may  re- 
quire the  repeated  use  of  the  harrow,  plank  drag,  or  other  soil 
pulverizing  and  moisture  conserving  tools. 

The  onion  requires  the  highest  fertility.  Large  bulbs  cannot 
be  grown  without  an  abundance  of  available  plant  food  and  humus 


236  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

in  the  soil.  The  certainty  of  a  large  return  justifies  the  most  com- 
plete fertilizer  treatment.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  apply  a  ton  or 
more  of  high-grade  fertilizer  to  the  acre.  There  should  be  no 
shortage  of  any  of  the  elements  of  plant  food.  Nitrogen  is  con- 
sidered especially  important.  Any  of  the  nitrogenous  fertilizers 
may  be  employed  to  advantage.  Nitrate  of  soda,  in  amounts  of 
200  or  more  pounds  to  the  acre,  is  the  most  popular  source  of 
nitrogen  for  this  crop.  Part  of  the  nitrate  should  be  applied  before 
planting  and  top  dressings  of  100  pounds  to  the  acre  may  be  made 
early  in  the  growth  of  the  crop. 

If  a  ton  of  fertilizer  is  used  to  the  acre,  about  700  or  800  pounds 
of  this  amount  should  be  acid  phosphate.  Potash  is  also  regarded 
as  highly  important,  though  not  to  the  same  extent  as  it  was  re- 
garded before  the  war.  A  good  mixture  may  be  made  by  using 
300  pounds  nitrate  of  soda,  500  pounds  dried  blood  or  tankage,  800 
pounds  acid  phosphate,  and  400  pounds  muriate  of  potash. 

Well -decayed  stable  manure  is  largely  employed  for  onions. 
If  very  fine,  it  may  be  applied  after  plowing  and  thoroughly  mixed 
with  the  soil  by  harrowing.  Poultry  manure  is  also  excellent, 
and  should  be  applied  after  the  land  has  been  plowed. 

1.  How  will  you  proceed  to  have  the  soil  well  supplied  with  mois- 

ture at  the  time  of  planting  ?     W  :  23 1 .     C  :  3 1 1 . 

2.  What  can  be  done  to  reduce  the  weed  nuisance  ? 

3.  What  are  the  fertilizer  requirements  of  the  onion  ? 

W-VG:387.     C:311. 

4.  How  do  nitrogen,  phosphorus,  and  potassium  function  in  the 

growing  of  onions  ? 

5.  What  may  be  said  about  the  value  of  stable  manure  and  poultry 

manure  for  this  crop  ?    W-VG  :  387.     L  :  164.     C  :  311. 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS 


237 


6.  Give  specific  directions  for  the  fertilizing  of  your  onion  ground. 

Estimate  your  needs. 
L :  163-164.     C  :  311.     W-VG  :  387-389. 

7.  What  kind  and  how  much  fertilizer  is  used  for  onions  in  the  leading 

districts  of  the  United  States  ? 

8.  Suggest  various  combinations  of  fertilizer  materials,  specifying  the 

amounts  required  of  each. 


Fig.  60.  —  Onion  sets  of  various  types  and  sizes. 

7.  Planting  sets.  —  Sets  are  used  in  large  quantities  for  the 
growing  of  bunching  onions.  They  are  also  generally  employed 
by  home  gardeners  for  the  production  of  mature  bulbs,  and  to  a 
considerable  extent  by  commercial  growers  for  an  early  crop  of 
bulbs.  Better  results  are  obtained  from  sets  than  from  seed  in 
soils  which  are  not  very  well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  onions. 

It  is  customary  to  plant  sets  two  or  three  inches  apart  (or  closer  if 


238  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PUOJECTS 

wanted  for  bunching  onions)  in  rows  a  foot  apart.  The  rows 
should  be  perfectly  straight,  a  condition  which  may  be  secured  by 
the  use  of  a  line.  The  sets  should  barely  be  covered,  unless  the 
soil  is  very  light,  in  which  case  they  may  be  planted  somewhat 
deeper.  From  20  to  25  bushels  of  sets  are  required  to  the  acre 
and  more  if  sets  are  large.  They  should  be  planted  just  as  early 
in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared. 

1.  When  is  it  an  advantage  to  use  sets  instead  of  seed  ? 

W-VG  :  392.     L  :  174-175. 

2.  How  early  in  the  spring  should  sets  be  planted  ?    W-VG  :  394. 

3.  What  are  the  proper  planting  distances  for  sets  ? 

W-VG:  394.     L:176. 

4.  How  many  bushels  are  required  to  the  acre  ?    W-VG  :  394. 

5.  Are  sets  ever  planted  in  the  fall?     If  so,  what  kind  and  what 

method  is  followed  ?    W-VG  :  393. 


8.  Sowing  in  the  field.  —  In  the  great  onion-growing  districts 
practically  all  the  bulbs  are  grown  from  seed  sown  in  the  open 
ground.  Good  results  may  be  expected  in  muck  soils  and  in  sandy 
loams  or  wherever  conditions  are  favorable  for  growing  this  crop. 
The  yellow  American  varieties  are  most  largely  employed  for 
field  seeding.  It  is  customary  to  start  the  seed  drills  as  early  in 
the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared.  The  rows  are  generally 
twelve  to  fourteen  inches  apart  and  it  is  customary  to  use  about 
four  and  one-half  pounds  of  seed  to  the  acre.  There  should  be 
eight  to  twelve  plants  per  foot  of  row.  If  too  much  seed  is 
used,  it  will  be  necessary  to  thin  the  plants.  This  is  always 
a  slow,  tedious  operation,  so  that  it  is  important  to  know  the 
viability    of   the    seed    and    not   sow  more   than   is   necessary. 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS 


239 


Covering  should  not  exceed  one-half  inch  of  soil  on  loam  lands, 
while  an  inch  may  not  be  too  much  in  light,  sandy  soils. 

1.  When  is  it  desirable  to  use  seed  for  the  growing  of  mature 

bulbs  ?     For  the  growing  of  bunching  onions  ? 
W-VG  :  389.     L  :  174. 

2.  When  should  the  seed  be  sown?     W-VG  :  390.     L  :  164. 

3.  How  far  apart  should  the  rows  be  spaced  ? 

W-VG:  390.     L:165.     C  :  313. 

4.  How  much  seed  is  required  to  the  acre  ?     W-VG  :  390. 

5.  What  varieties  are  most  popular  for  field  seeding  ?     W-VG  :  389. 

6.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  for  your  onion  project? 


9.   Transplanting    hotbed-grown    plants. 

hotbed-grown  plants 
may  be  injured  by 
severe  frosts,  they 
should  not  be  set  in 
the  open  ground  too 
early,  ]\Iay  1  to  10 
being  as  early  as  is 
desirable  in  most 
parts  of  the  North. 
Planting  should  be 
postponed  a  little 
longer  if  plants  are 
under  size. 

Small  dibbers  may 
be  used  for  making 
holes  for  the  plants 
or  they  may   be   set 


Inasmuch    as    the 


Fig.  61.  —  Onion  seedlings;   a  shallow-rooted  crop. 


240  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

in  shallow  furrows.     If  large   bulbs  are  desired,  they  should  be 
spaced  at  least  three  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

It  is  especially  important  to  have  the  very  best  soil  conditions 
for  the  growing  of  Prizetakers  by  the  ''  new  onion  culture  "  method, 
and  no  more  ground  should  be  planted  than  can  be  properly  en- 
riched and  cared  for. 

1.  When  should  Prizetakers  be  set  in  the  field  ? 

W-VG  :  392.    L :  174. 

2.  Explain  the  details  of  transplanting. 

W-VG  :  394.     L  :  174.     C  :  314-315. 

Students  will  find  reference  (Gr)  exceedingl}'  valuable  in  the 
growing  of  onions  by  the  transplanting  method. 

10.  Cultivating.  —  W  :  235.  Cultivators  must  be  used  at  close 
intervals  if  the  soil  is  to  be  kept  in  proper  condition.  If  the  weeds 
make  very  much  of  a  start,  it  is  tedious  and  expensive  to  get  rid 
of  them,  so  that  the  economic  policy  is  to  use  the  wheel  hoes  fre- 
quently, not  only  to  keep  down  the  weeds  but  for  the  conservation 
of  soil  moisture  and  for  other  reasons  discussed  in  the  Tomato- 
Growing  Project.  ( W :  37.)  We  should  not  lose  sight  of  the  fact 
that  the  onion  is  a  shallow  rooted  crop  and  that  tillage  should  not 
at  any  time  disturb  the  development  of  the  roots.  The  horizontal 
blades  or  sweeps  of  the  wheel  hoe  are  excellent  for  destroying  weeds 
and  should  be  used  when  there  is  danger  of  their  interfering  with 
the  root  growth.  Both  single- wheel  hoes  and  double- wheel  hoes 
are  used  in  cultivating  onions  and  sometimes  the  rows  are  far 
enough  apart  to  permit  the  use  of  horse  cultivators. 

1.  How  frequently  should  onions  be  cultivated  ? 

W-VG:  394.     L:165.     C  :  315. 

2.  What  tools  may  be  employed?     W-VG  :  394.     L  :  165. 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS  241 

3.   What  should  be  the  character  of  the  cultivation  ? 
W-VG:394.     C :  315. 

11.  Weeding.  —  W :  307.  Though  the  most  perfect  cultivation 
may  be  given  onions,  some  hand  weeding  is  nearly  always  required 
to  destroy  weeds  in  the  rows.  Various  types  of  small  hand  weeders 
are  in  common  use.  It  is  important  to  keep  the  plantations 
entirely  free  from  weeds. 

1.   What  hand  tools  will  you  select  to  weed  your  onions?     Give 
reasons  for  selecting  them.     W-VG  :  394.     L  :  166. 

12.  Thinning.  —  W  :  308.  It  is  customary  to  remove  some  of 
the  plants  at  the  time  of  weeding,  if  they  are  too  close  together. 
As  stated  in  W  :  238,  most  growers  want  from  eight  to  twelve  plants 
to  the  foot  of  row.  If  the  soil  is  very  fertile  and  large  bulbs  are 
wanted,  a  minimum  number  of  plants  should  be  left. 

1.   What  will  be  your  policy  in  the  number  of  plants  left  per  foot  of 
row? 

13.  Irrigating.  —  W :  235.  The  onion  responds  to  the  most 
perfect  cultural  conditions.  Some  growers  are  so  anxious  that 
there  be  no  unfavorable  conditions  at  any  period  of  growth  that 
they  install  overhead  irrigating  or  sprinkling  devices  so  that 
artificial  rain  may  be  produced  at  will.  There  are  times  when  a 
thorough  watering  is  urgently  important,  and  fortunate  is  the 
grower  who  is  prepared  to  supply  all  the  water  that  the  crop  may 
need  and  at  the  time  it  is  needed. 

1.   Would  it  pay  you  to  install  an  irrigating  system  for  this  and  other 
crops  that  you  intend  to  grow  ? 

14.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  W-VG :  405.  Owing 
largely  to  cultural  methods,  onion  insects  are  difficult  to  handle. 


242  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Close  planting  of  rows  prevents  the  use  of  horse-drawn  implements 
so  that  growers  are  apt  to  bear  with  insect  depredations  rather 
than  resort  to  the  use  of  hand  outfits.  Some  extensive  truckers 
are  now  planting  onions  with  skip  rows,  so  that  when  spraying 
operations  are  necessary  traction  machines  can  be  used  without 
injury  to  the  plants. 

It  is  not  uncommon  for  the  leaves  of  onions  to  turn  white  in 
midseason  and  wilt.  This  is  due  to  a  small,  white,  soft-bodied, 
insect  (onion  thrips),  the  larva  of  a  minute  fly,  which  punctures 
the  leaf  with  its  needle-like  mouth  parts  and  destroys  the  cells 
while  sucking  the  plant  juices.  The  adult  thrips  pass  the  winter 
in  old  onion  tops  or  in  rubbish.  In  the  spring  the  ''  flies  "  go  to 
new  onion  plantings  where  they  deposit  eggs  in  the  leaf.  Adults, 
eggs,  and  larvae  may  be  found  on  the  plants  during  the  summer 
or  until  reproduction  is  stopped  in  the  autumn.  Contact  sprays 
applied  before  the  leaves  are  badly  affected  will  control  the  insect. 
Black  Leaf  40,  one  pint  in  100  gallons  of  water  to  which  is  ap- 
plied 4  or  5  pounds  of  dissolved  soap,  is  effective  when  applied 
with  force  and  in  large  quantities. 

Onion  bulbs  are  sometimes  dwarfed  or  the  plants  destroyed 
soon  after  growth  has  commenced  by  a  whitish  maggot  which 
bores  into  the  underground  stem.  Entire  fields  are  often  destroyed 
by  this  pest.  The  insects  pass  the  winter  usually  as  puparia 
from  which  adults  emerge  in  the  spring.  Eggs  are  laid  in  the 
leaf  sheath  or  on  the  ground,  and  upon  hatching  the  maggots 
work  into  the  young  bulbs.  In  two  or  three  weeks  the  maggots 
mature,  change  into  pupae  in  hardened,  brownish  puparia. 
Several  broods  of  the  insect  occur  each  year.  Until  recently 
no  satisfactory  control  was  known.  Sweetened  poison  bait  has 
proved  the  most  satisfactory  remedy. 

Smut  is  a  disease  of  onions  which  sometimes  causes  serious 
losses.  The  fungus  causing  the  disease  lives  through  the  winter 
in  the  soil  and  attacks  young  seedlings.    Onions  grown  from  sets 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS  243 

are  never  diseased.  Smut  may  be  recognized  by  dark  spots  on 
the  leaves.  Later  these  spots  break  open  exposing  black  sooty 
masses  of  spores.  In  truck  gardening  regions  it  is  often  necessary 
to  disinfect  the  soil  at  planting  time  by  applying  a  formaldehyde 
solution.     This  is  done  by  a  drip  attachment  on  the  seed  drill. 

Downy  mildew,  a  disease  which  has  many  of  the  characteristics 
of  the  late  blight  of  potatoes,  is  sometimes  a  destructive  disease. 
Its  first  effects  are  noticeable  by  the  peculiar  withering  of  the 
tips  of  leaves.  The  affected  plants  soon  wilt  and  the  trouble 
spreads  to  other  plants.  Spraying  with  Bordeaux  is  the  best 
method  of  control. 

Black  spot  may  develop  on  the  outer  scales  and  become  con- 
spicuous especially  during  storage.  The  chief  injury  is  to  ap- 
pearance. Neck  rot  often  causes  severe  losses  in  storage.  Thorough 
drying  before  storage  is  important  in  controlling  these  troubles. 

1.  Describe  the  injury  done  by  thrips  to  onions.     CL :  245,  248. 

2.  Is  soil  a  factor  in  the  attacks  of  thrips  ?     CL  :  245,  247. 

3.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  onion  thrips  f    CL  :  245,  247. 

4.  What  are  some  contact  sprays,  and  which  is  the  most  efficient 

against  onion  thrips  f     CL  :  248-249. 

5.  What  is  the  life  history  and  appearance  of  the  onion  maggot  f 

CL :  243-244. 

6.  What  are  the  puparia?    CL :  244. 

7.  What  is  the  formula  for  poison  bait  ?    CL :  245. 

8.  How  may  onion  smut  he  recognized  f     SH :  201-203. 

9.  In  severe  cases  what  measures  are  necessary  to  control  onion  smut  f 


244  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

10.  How  can  downy  mildew  of  onions  he  controlled?     SH:  203-205. 

11.  What  precautio7i  assists  in  preventing  black  spot  and  neck  rotf 

15.  Marketing  bunching  onions.  —  Before  pulling  any  of  the 
bunching  onions  it  is  important  to  visit  the  markets  to  be  supplied 
and  learn  what  is  the  usual  method  of  marketing.  First,  note 
the  number  of  onions  in  each  bunch  and  also  the  size  of  the  onions  ; 
second,  whether  they  are  clean  and  neatly  bunched ;  third,  the 
kind  of  tying  material  used.  Then  study  how  you  can  improve 
on  the  methods  you  have  observed.  It  is  especially  important 
to  see  that  the  bunches  are  neat  and  clean,  and  tied  with  strings 
or  tape  that  enhance  rather  than  mar  the  appearance  of  the 
bunches. 

1.  What  methods  are   employed  in  your  neighborhood  in  the 

marketing  of  bunching  onions  ?    W-VG  :  404. 

2.  What  methods  will  you  employ? 

16.  Harvesting  mature  bulbs.  —  Sometimes  the  market  is  so 
good  for  onions  that  we  are  justified  in  harvesting  them  before 
they  are  fully  mature.  Ordinarily,  the  bulbs  should  not  be  har- 
vested until  they  are  fully  ripe,  as  indicated  by  the  dead  and 
shriveled  tops.  Dry,  sunny  weather  is  most  favorable  for  this 
operation.  Several  rows  of  onions  are  pulled  and  thrown  together 
into  a  windrow.  They  are  left  undisturbed  for  a  few  days  and 
then  stirred  occasionally  with  a  wooden  rake  to  facilitate  drying. 
The  tops  should  be  removed  with  shears  or  knife,  leaving  about 
an  inch  of  the  neck.  If  ample  space  is  available  in  a  shed  or  loft, 
so  that  the  bulbs  can  be  spread  in  layers  only  a  few  inches  deep, 
they  need  not  dry  so  long  in  the  field. 

1.   What  is  the  proper  time  to  harvest  mature  onions? 
W-VG:  396.    L:168.     C  :  316. 


BULB  CROP  PROJECTS  245 

2.  How  should  the  bulbs  be  removed  from  the  soil  ?     Are  tools  or 

machines  ever  used  for  this  purpose? 
W-VG  :  39().     L :  169-171.     C  :  316. 

3.  What  is  done  with  the  bulbs  after  they  are  pulled  ? 

W-VG:  397.    L:170.    C  :  316. 

4.  What  is  considered  a  satisfactory  yield  to  the  acre  ?    W-VG  :  400. 

5.  To  ivhat  extent  is  the  yield  reduced  if  the  roivs  are  far  enough 

apart  to  ivork  icith  a  horse? 

17.  Storing.  —  Onions  should  not  be  placed  in  permanent 
storage  until  thoroughly  dry.  The  requirements  of  successful 
storage  are  thorough  ventilation,  a  dry  atmosphere,  and  the 
impossibility  of  alternate  freezing  and  thawing.  In  the  great 
commercial  storage  houses,  an  effort  is  made  to  maintain  the  tem- 
perature as  low  as  possible  without  actual  freezing.  This,  of 
course,  cannot  be  done  in  most  farm  buildings,  so  that  the  main 
thing  to  guard  against  is  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  that 
invariably  destroys  the  bulbs.  If  there  is  a  location  where  the 
bulbs  can  be  frozen  and  then  covered  with  hay  to  hold  the  frost 
until  they  are  wanted  for  sale,  the  results  will  be  satisfactory. 
Thick-necked  specimens  should  be  marketed  early  in  the  fall. 

1.  What  are  the  essentials  for  the  successful  storage  of  onions? 

W-VG :  397-400.    L  :  171.     C  :  317-318. 

2.  What  method  do  you  intend  to  use  ? 

3.  What  do  you  know  about  the  construction  and  management  of  the 

large  commercial  storage  houses? 
W-VG:  398.     L:171.     C  :  318. 


246  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

4.  What  arc  the  rrlafirr  nicrits  and  cost  of  bags,  crates,  and  bins  for 

the  storage  of  onions  f 

5.  What  is  the  shrinkage  of  onions  in  storage  ? 

18.  Marketing  mature  bulbs.  —  W  :  244.  Onions  should  be 
carefully  graded  into  at  least  three  sizes  before  they  are  marketed, 
though  this  is  not  generally  practiced.  Grading  nearly  always 
increases  the  net  returns  from  the  crop.  They  are  sold  in  a  great 
variety  of  packages  and  here  is  an  opportunity  to  exercise  good 
judgment  as  well  as  originality.  Clean,  white,  attractive  pack- 
ages of  medium  size  may  be  a  great  advantage  in  the  disposition 
of  the  crop.  The  dead  stems  and  loose  leaves  should  be  carefully 
removed.  It  is  especially  important  to  market  very  large  superior 
bulbs,  of  the  foreign  types,  in  the  most  attractive  manner. 

1.  When  will  it  pay  you  best  to  sell  your  crop  ? 

2.  How  will  you  prepare  the  bulbs  for  market  ?    W-VG  :  400. 

3.  What  packages  will  you  use  ?     W-VG  :  400. 

4.  What  does  it  cost  to  grow  and  market  an  acre  of  onions? 

W-VG:  401. 

5.  What  profits  shoidd  be  realized  to  the  acre?    W-VG  :  401. 


CHAPTER  NINE 
PULSE    CROP   PROJECTS 

Bean,  Pea 

The  bean  and  pea  are  closely  related  botanically,  though  they 
differ  very  greatly  in  cultural  requirements.  The  bean  is  tender 
to  frost  while  the  pea  stands  very  hard  frosts  or  even  severe  freez- 
ing under  certain  conditions.  Some  types  of  beans,  as  the  lima, 
must  have  a  long,  warm  season,  while  the  pea  is  a  cool,  short- 
season  crop. 

Project  XVI.    Growing  Beans 

Beans  belong  to  What  is  known  as  the  pea  or  pulse  family. 
''Legume"  is  also  a  popular  name  for  members  of  this  family. 
The  importance  of  this  family  agriculturally  is  probably  greater 
than  any  other  except  the  grass  family.  Here  belong,  in  addition 
to  beans  and  peas,  clover,  alfalfa,  vetch,  cowpea,  soybean,  and 
peanut.  About  10,000  species  belong  to  this  family,  of  which 
about  two  fifths  are  American,  distributed  both  in  temperate 
and  tropical  regions.  The  common  or  kidney  bean  is  believed 
to  be  a  native  of  tropical  America. 

The  genus  to  which  the  kidney  bean  belongs  includes  also  the 
lima  bean  and  the  scarlet  runner  bean.  The  broad  bean,  soy- 
bean, and  a  number  of  other  beans  do  not  belong  to  this  genus. 

The  beans  are  seeds  and  are  produced  in  fruits  commonly  called 
pods.  There  are  both  green-podded  and  wax-podded  varieties. 
The  pods  are  made  up  of  two  valves  which  separate  along  both 
lines  or  edges  at  maturity.  Stringiness  of  the  pods  of  string  or 
snap  beans  is  due  to  tough  fibers  which  develop  along  the  unions 

247 


248  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

of  the  valves.  The  plants  are  commonly  divided  into  two  classes, 
pole  and  bush  ;  the  former  a  climbing  and  the  latter  a  dwarf  type 
of  the  same  species.  The  leaves  are  compound,  with  three  leaflets, 
and  the  flowers  are  of  a  true  legume  type  with  a  standard,  two 
lateral  wings,  and  a  keel.     In  the  common  bean  the  keel  is  coiled. 

1.  What  can  be  said  of  the  importance  of  the  pulse  family? 

2.  What  is  another  popular  name  for  members  of  this  family  ? 

3.  Is  this  a  large  family  and  is  it  well  represented  in  America  ? 

4.  What  part  of  the  plant  are  the  beans  ? 

5.  What  is  meant  by  the  terms  pole  and  bush  ? 

Project  Outline 

1 .  Why  grow  beans  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Classifying  and  selecting  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Preparing  soil. 

6.  Planting  field  beans. 

7.  Planting  dwarf,  snap,  and  green  shell  beans. 

8.  Planting  pole  beans. 

9.  Planting  lima  beans. 

10.  Cultivating. 

11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  beans  ?  —  The  growing  of  beans  is  often  very 
attractive  as  a  business  proposition.  There  are  practically  no 
sections  where  some  of  the  varieties  cannot  be  grown.     Glass 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS  249 

is  not  required  to  start  the  plants,  though  it  is  sometimes  an  advan- 
tage. The  culture  of  beans  is  comparatively  simple  and  the  crop 
is  especially  desirable  for  those  who  have  had  no  practical  gardening 
experience.  Before  undertaking  the  culture  of  beans  on  a  large 
scale,  we  should  be  reasonably  certain  of  a  satisfactory  market. 

1.  Is  your  market  well  supplied  with  beans? 

2.  Will  it  pay  you  to  grow  beans  ? 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  W :  247.  As  previously  stated  the 
bean  is  tender  to  frost  and  there  will  be  a  distinct  advantage  for 
the  early  plantings  in  selecting  areas  with  good  air  drainage.  Loss 
from  frost,  however,  can  generally  be  avoided  by  planting  late 
enough  to  escape  such  a  disaster. 

Beans  are  grown  successfully  in  all  soil  types,  though  sandy 
loams  provide  the  best  conditions.  Cold,  heavy  soils  should  be 
avoided,  and  under  no  circumstances  should  beans  be  planted  in 
poorly  drained  soil. 

1.  Where  are  beans  grown  most  successfully  in  your  neighbor- 

hood? 

2.  What  kind  of  soil  is  best  for  beans  ? 

W-VG  :  233.     C  :  128.    S-B  :  13. 

3.  Do  you  have  a  suitable  soil  for  beans  ? 

4.  What  is  the  nature  of  the  soil  in  the  South  where  beans  are  grown 

so  largely  for  northern  markets? 

5.  What  is  the  nature  of  the  soil  in  other  bean-growing  districts  of  the 

United  States? 

3.  Classifying  and  selecting  varieties.  —  Beans  may  be  divided 
into  two  general  classes,  namely,  field  beans  and  garden  beans, 
and  the  garden  class  may  be  subdivided  as  follows : 


250 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


Garden 
Beans 


Bush 


Pole 


l^^^^^y       |Grten-Pod 
I  Lima 


I  Wax 

1  Green-Pod 


'  Kidney 
Lima 
Runner  (Scarlet  Runner) 


By  the  term  snap  bean  is  meant  beans  which  may  be  eaten  with 
the  pod  and  they  may  be  either  bush  or  pole  in  habit  of  growth. 
This  class  of  beans  is  also  often  called  ''  string  ''  beans,  though  a 
good  string  bean  is  stringless.  Green  shell  beans  are  those  which 
are  shelled  and  used  before  they  are  fully  ripe,  in  distinction  from 
dry  shell  beans,  which  are  allowed  to  ripen  and  dry  before  they  are 
cooked. 

There  are  many  good  varieties  of  beans.  The  following  are 
some  of  the  leading  varieties : 

Dwarf  Wax-Podded:  Burpee's  Kidney,  Wardwell  Kidney,  Im- 
proved Golden  Wax,  Brittle  Wax. 

Dwarf  Green-Podded:  Burpee's  Stringless,  Red  Valentine, 
Refugee,  Bountiful. 

Green  Shell:  Goddard,  Dwarf  Horticultural. 

Dry  Shell  or  Field:  Navy,  Marrowfat,  Red  Kidney. 

Wax-Podded  Pole:  Golden  Carmine,  Golden  Cluster. 

Green- Podded  Pole:  Creaseback,  Kentucky  Wonder,  Lazy  Wife. 

Pole  Lima:  Leviathan,  King  of  the  Garden,  Dreer's  Improved. 

Bmh  Lima:  Henderson,  Fordhook. 

1.   What  varieties  of  beans  will    you  plant  and   why  have  you 
selected  them  ? 

W-VG  :  230-232.     S-B  :  117. 


2.    How  may  beans  be  classified? 
W-VG  :  226-230.    L :  205. 


C  :  123-125.    S-B  :  3. 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS  251 

3.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  beans  f    W-VG  :  226.     S-B  :  1 . 

4.  What  varieties  are  groivn  mainly  in  the  South  for  shipping  to 

northern  markets  f    W-VG  :  230.     S-B  :  124-125. 

5.  What  varieties  are  grown  in  your  neighborhood? 

6.  What  varieties  are  grown  in  the  greatest  commercial  districts  of 

the  United  States?    S-B  :  117-125. 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  It  is  a  simple  matter  to  save  seed  from 
choice  plants.  Thousands  of  American  home  gardeners  and  some 
commercial  growers  follow  this  practice.  Most  of  the  seed,  how- 
ever, is  bought  from  dealers  who  have  their  stocks  grown  by  con- 
tract in  districts  which  are  unusually  favorable  for.  the  growing 
and  curing  of  seed. 

1.  Do  you  know  how  to  select  your  own  seed?    Will  it  pay  you 

to  do  so?    S-B:  43-49. 

2.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  for  your  project  ? 

3.  Where  are  most  of  the  seed  beans  produced  and  under  what  soil  and 

climatic  conditions? 

5.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  The  soil  should  be  well  prepared  for 
beans.  They  may  be  grown  in  rotation  with  other  garden  crops. 
)Vhen  a  heavy  clover  sod  is  available,  it  is  ideal  for  beans,  if 
plowed  down  in  the  fall,  or  at  least  several  weeks  in  advance 
of  bean  planting. 

It  is  not  customary  to  make  heavy  applications  of  fertilizers 
for  beans.  About  500  pounds  to  the  acre  of  a  mixture  high  in 
phosphorus  should  give  good  results. 

1.   What  preliminary  crop  do  you  recommend  for  beans? 
W-VG :  234. 


252 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS 


253 


2.  What  soil  tillage  preparations  do  you  think  should  be  made? 

S-B  :  71. 

3.  How  will  you  fertilize  your  beans? 

W-VG  :  235.     C  :  139.     S-B  :  15-20. 


5. 


6. 


What  is  the  function  and  importance  of  nitrogen,  phosphorus,  and 
potassium  in  the  growing  of  beans  f     S-B  :  15-20. 

When  should  the 
fertilizer  be 
applied? 


How  are  beans 
fertilized  in 
the  important 
bean-growing 
sections  f 


6.  Planting  field 
beans.  —  Field  beans 
should  not  be  planted 
too  early  because  they 
may  rot  in  the  ground, 
3T  frost  may  kill  the 
plants,  and  earhness 
is  not  particularly 
important.  Rust  is 
also  more  likely  to 
develop  on  early  plant- 
ings and  cold,  wet 
weather  may  retard 
and  stunt  the  plants. 
The  most  common 
spacing  between  rows 
is  twenty-eight  inches 


Fig.  63.  —  Distributing  seed  from  an  envelope. 


254 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


and  the  beans  should    be  dropped    from   two    to    four   inches 
apart.     They  are  sometimes  planted  in  hills  ten  to  twelve  inches 

apart  and  this  is  an 
advantage  in  get- 
ting a  good  stand  of 
plants.  The  depth  of 
covering  in  heavy 
soil  should  be  about 
one  inch  and  a 
trifle  more  in  light 
soils.  In  well-pre- 
pared moist  soil,  shal- 
low planting  is  very 
desirable. 

1.  What  is  the  proper 
time  for  planting 
field  beans  in  your 
neighborhood? 
W-VG:236.  C: 
129.  S-B:  71-73. 

2.  What  planting  dis- 
tances do  you 
recommend  and 
what  is  the  proper 
depth  to  plant? 
W-VG  :  236.     C  : 

Fig.  64.  —  Firming  the  soil  over  the  seed  with  a  hoe.  129. 


3.    How  are  field  beans  planted  in  the  great  producing  districts  f 
W-VG  :  236.     S-B  :  71-76. 


7.   Planting  dwarf,  snap,  and  green  shell  beans.  —  If  the  beans 
are  to  be  cultivated  with  a  wheel  hoe,  it  is  unnecessary  to  allow 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS 


255 


more  than  16  to  18  inches  between  rows  and  about  28  to  30  inches 

for  horse  cultivation.     Depth  of  seed  covering  will  vary  with  the 

character  of  the  soil, 

(W:254),though  there 

should  seldom  be  more 

than    two    inches    of 

soil  over   the    beans. 

The  beans  should  be 

dropped  two  to  four 

inches   apart.      Some 

growers  prefer  to  drop 

about  four  beans    in 

hills     ten     inches 

apart.       Then     hand 

hoes    may    be    used 

between  the  hills   to 

destroy     any     weeds 

that    may  appear   in 

the  row. 


Fig.  65.  —  Bean  seedlings.  These  plants  contain  so 
few  roots  that  it  is  diflScult  to  transplant  them 
successfully. 


1.   When  should  this  class  of  beans  be  planted? 
take  some  risk  in  planting  at  an  early  date  ? 
W-VG:237.    L:206.     C :  140. 


Will  it  pay  to 


2.   What  shoiild  be  the  planting  distances,  and  the  depth  of  plant- 
ing?   W-VG:237.    L:206.     C :  140. 

8.  Planting  pole  beans.  —  Pole  beans  are  generally  planted  in 
hills  3X4  or  4X4  feet  apart.  Sometimes  they  are  planted  in 
drills  and  supported  by  poultry  netting  or  some  other  device. 
From  four  to  six  beans  are  planted  in  a  hill  and  the  plants  thinned 
to  about  three  plants. 


1.  When  and  how  would  you  plant  pole  beans?    W-VG :  238. 


256 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


9.  Planting  lima  beans.  —  Lima  beans  are  very  tender  to  cold 
and  must  not  be  planted  until  the  ground  is  warm  and  there  is  no 
danger  of  frost.  They  are  usually  planted  in  hills  4X4  feet  apart 
and  the  bush  limas  in  drills  as  explained  for  other  types  of  bush 
beans.  W :  254.  Sometimes  bush  limas  are  started  in  pots  under 
glass  about  four  weeks  in  advance  of  field  planting,  and  trans- 
ferred to  the  field  without  disturbing  the  roots.     Poultry  netting 


^Si^wp 


Fig.  66. — Companion  cropping  is  necessary  for  best  returns  on  land  of  high  value. 

and  other  forms  of  wire  trellis  may  be  employed,  if  desired,  to 
support  pole  limas. 

1.   When  and  how  would  you  plant  lima  beans  ? 
W-VG  :  238.     L :  208. 

10.  Cultivating.  —  W :  251.  Beans  should  have  just  as  thorough 
cultivation  as  is  necessary  to  maintain  a  mulch  of  fine  soil.  This 
is  a  shallow  rooted  crop  and  we  must  be  careful  to  avoid  severe 
root  pruning.     S-B  :  77-80. 

1.  What  tools  will  you  need  to  cultivate  your  beans  ?    W-VG  :  240. 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS 


257 


11.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  Legumes  suffer 
damage  from  sucking  insects  such  as  aphids,  or  caterpillars 
which  feed  on  the  vines.  Weevils  working  in  seeds  in  the  field, 
or  in  storage,  annually 
cause  tremendous  losses 
to  crops  of  beans  and 
peas. 

The  bean  weevil  is  very 
destructive  in  the  warmer 
climates,  but  does  not 
seem  to  be  so  harmful  in 
the  more  northern  areas. 
The  adult,  a  mottled 
beetle,  places  its  eggs 
within  the  pod  and  from 
these  young  larvse  hatch 
and  work  into  the  bean, 
and  eat  out  a  sizable 
cell  in  which  the  grub 
matures.  The  insect  com- 
pletes its  transformation  in  the  seed,  and  then  escapes  through 
a  small  round  hole  in  the  shell,  and  deposits  eggs  for  another 
generation  of  the  pests.  Several  broods  may  occur,  and,  if  the 
beans  are  left  undisturbed,  they  are  soon  reduced  to  a  powdery 
condition.  Weevil  beans  are  unfit  for  seed,  for  even  if  only  slightly 
injured,  the  plants  which  germinate  are  sickly  or  the  beans  may 
carry  the  weevils  to  the  field  in  this  manner.  They  may  be  con- 
trolled by  fumigation. 

Anthracnose  or  pod  spot  is  one  of  the  most  serious  diseases  of 
the  bean,  often  causing  enormous  losses.  The  symptoms  are 
most  noticeable  upon  the  pods,  where  the  disease  appears  as 
sunken,  dark-colored  spots.  Similar  spots  may  be  found  upon 
the  stems  and  leaves.     Anthracnose  is  most  commonly  spread 


Fig.  67. 


Bean  weevil   and  injury  to  stored 
beans. 


258  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

by  diseased  seeds.  Control  of  this  trouble  is  largely  a  matter  of 
planting  clean  seed.  Clean  cultivation  and  crop  rotation  are 
also  advisable.  Vines  should  not  be  cultivated  when  they  are 
wet.     Lima  beans  are  resistant  to  this  disease. 

Blight  is  the  name  given  to  a  common  bacterial  disease  which 
attacks  all  varieties  of  both  field  beans  and  lima  beans.  Upon 
the  leaves  large,  brown,  watery  spots  are  produced  which  become 
dry,  thin,  and  papery.  The  disease  soon  extends  to  the  pods, 
where  similar  watery  spots  are  developed.  Blight  is  spread  by 
infected  seeds,  and  the  methods  of  control  are  therefore  similar 
to  those  for  anthracnose. 

Rust  may  be  distinguished  from  the  above-mentioned  diseases 
by  the  fact  that  small  blister-like  spots  are  found  on  the  leaves 
and  stems.  These  break  open  and  are  full  of  rusty  brown  or 
blackish  powder,  which  is  in  reality  the  spores  of  the  fungus. 
Rust  usually  develops  rather  late  in  the  season  but  is  often  the 
cause  of  very  severe  damage.  The  use  of  the  resistant  varieties 
forms  the  most  effective  means  of  control. 

1 .  What  is  the  life  cycle  of  the  bean  weevil  ?     CL  :  58-59. 

2.  How  can  the  adult  he  distinguished?     CL  :  57-58. 

3.  Name  three  other  bean  weevils.     CL :  60-63. 

4.  What  is  the  best  remedy  f    CL :  64. 

5.  What  caution  should  be  taken  in  handling  carbon  bisulphide  f 

CL:63. 

6.  What  are  the  symptoms  by  which  anthracnose  of  beans  may  he 

recognized  f     SH :  152. 

7.  How  may  anthracnose  be  controlled?     SH:  154. 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS  259 

8.  How  is  blight  distinguished  from  anthracnose  ?     SH :  155. 

9.  What  are  the  characteristics  of  bean  rust  f 

12.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Garden  beans  must  be 
picked  by  hand  and  it  is  important  for  the  work  to  be  done 
when  the  pods  are  at  the  proper  stage  of  development,  or  they 
may  become  overripe  and  their  quahty  will  be  sacrificed.  This 
statement  applies  to  all  varieties  of  garden  beans.  Snap  beans 
should  produce  about  200  bushels  to  the  acre.  They  are  mar- 
keted in  baskets  of  various  types. 

1.  When  should  garden  beans  be  harvested  ? 

2.  How  do  you  intend  to  market  your  crop  ?     W-VG  :  242. 

3.  What  kind  and  how  many  packages  will  you  need? 

C : 141-145. 

Project  XVn.     Growing  Peas 

Peas  are  important  members  of  the  pea  family,  as  the  common 
name  of  the  family  suggests.  The  plants  either  trail  on  the 
ground  or  climb.  The  leaves  are  compound  with  one,  two,  or 
three  pairs  of  leaflets.  The  terminal  leaflets  and  often  the  upper 
lateral  ones  are  modified  into  tendrils  for  climbing.  Stipules, 
structures  at  the  union  of  the  leaf  stalk  and  the  stem,  which  in  many 
plants  are  small  or  lacking,  are  large  and  leaf-like  in  the  pea  plant. 
The  flowers  are  of  the  legume  type.  The  fruit  is  a  typical  pod  or 
legume  and  contains  the  seeds  which  are  commonly  known  as 
"  peas."  There  are  two  recognized  types  of  peas.  Garden  peas 
with  white  flowers  and  uniformly  colored  seeds,  and  field  peas 
with  colored  flow^ers  and  seeds  speckled  with  fine  spots  of  various 
colors.  The  garden  peas  may  be  divided  into  two  groups,  shelling 
peas  and  the  edible  podded  or  sugar  peas.    The  shelling  peas  are 


260  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

also  divided  into  two  groups,  the  smooth-seeded  and  the  wrinkled- 
seeded.  Each  of  these  groups  and  the  sugar  peas  occur  in  tall, 
dwarf,  and  half-dwarf  forms.  In  general  the  smooth-seeded 
varieties  mature  earlier  and  the  wrinkled-seeded  later.  The 
former  are  more  hardy.  Dwarf  and  half -dwarf  forms  ripen 
earlier  than  the  tall  sorts. 

1.  What  provision  do  peas  have  for  climbing? 

2.  What  parts  of  the  plant  show  clearly  all  family  relationship  ? 

3.  How  do  garden  peas  and  field  peas  differ  ? 

4.  Which  types  of  shelling  peas  mature  early  ?    Late  ? 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  peas? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Classifying  and  selecting  varieties. 

4.  Obtaining  seed. 

5.  Preparing  the  soil. 

6.  Planting. 

7.  Companion  cropping. 

8.  Cultivating. 

9.  Supporting  the  vines. 

10.  Combating  insects. 

11.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  peas  ?  —  The  pea  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
vegetables  grown  in  America.  The  sweet,  tender,  fresh  peas  are 
a  delicacy  on  any  table,  and  their  culture  may  be  profitable 
wherever  markets  are  available.  They  give  quick  cash  returns, 
and  the  early  crop  is  harvested  in  ample  time  to  follow  with  beans, 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS  261 

late  potatoes,  or  other  vegetables  which  will  mature  before  the 
end  of  the  growing  season. 

1.  Do  you  have  a  satisfactory  market  for  peas?  Do  you  think 
they  will  pay  you  better  than  some  other  vegetables  which  you 
grow  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. — W:262.  The  pea  thrives  in  a  cool, 
humid  climate  and  in  fertile  soils  with  an  abundant  and  constant 
supply  of  moisture.  The  North  naturally  provides  the  best 
conditions  for  this  crop,  though  it  is  growni  with  excellent  success 
in  the  South  when  advantage  is  taken  of  the  cooler  months.  Peas 
do  best  in  fairly  loose,  friable  soils  that  contain  a  good  supply 
of  humus.  All  things  considered,  the  sandy  loams  provide  the 
best  conditions. 

1.  What  are  the  best  soil  and  climatic  conditions  for  the  growing 

of  peas?     W-VG:  410-411.     C  :  334. 

2.  Do  you  have  a  suitable  location  for  growing  peas  ? 

3.  What  is  the  character  of  the  soil  and  climate  where  peas  are  grown 

on  a  large  scale  for  canning  f 

3.  Classifying  and  selecting  varieties.  —  Varieties  of  peas 
may  be  classified  according  to  their  habit  of  growth  into  dwarf, 
half-dwarf,  and  tall.  They  may  also  be  classified  as  smooth, 
wrinkled,  and  edible-podded  or  sugar.  The  smooth  varieties 
are  hardier  than  the  wTinkled  ones  and  may  be  planted  somewhat 
earlier.  The  wrinkled  varieties  are  sweeter  and  better  in  quality 
than  the  smooth  type,  and  are  especially  desirable  for  a  fancy 
trade  demanding  the  highest  quality. 

There  are  many  excellent  varieties  of  peas,  the  following  being 
very  popular : 

Extra  Early  Smooth  Peas :  Alaska  and  Best  Extra  Early. 


262  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Extra  Early  Wrinkled  Peas :  Gradus,  Thomas  Laxton,  Nott's 
Excelsior,  Blue  Bantam,  Little  Marvel. 

Medium  and  Late  Peas:  Improved  Stratagem,  Telegraph, 
Telephone,  and  many  other  good  varieties. 

Edible- Podded:  Giant  Sugar,  Dwarf  Gray  Sugar,  and  Mammoth 
Melting  Sugar. 

1.  What  varieties  do  you  intend  to  plant  and  why  have  you  selected 

them  ?     W-VG  :  409-410.     C  :  339.     Catalogues. 

2.  How  may  peas  be  classified  ? 

W-VG  :  409-410.     C  :  332.     S-P  :  1-4. 

3.  What  are  the  chief  varieties  grown  for  canneries  ?     S-P :  45. 

4.  Obtaining  seed.  —  It  is  customary  for  growers  to  rely  almost 
wholly  upon  dealers  for  their  supply  of  seed. 

1.   Where  can  you  obtain  good  seed  of  the  varieties  desired  ? 

5.  Preparing  soil.  —  W:261.  As  peas  thrive  best  in  a  cool, 
moist  soil,  and  as  they  should  be  planted  very  early  in  the  spring, 
it  is  desirable  to  plow  the  land  in  the  fall  and  harrow  it  just  as 
soon  as  it  is  dry  enough  iti  the  spring. 

Land  which  has  been  highly  manured  for  the  preceding  crop  is 
likely  to  furnish  ideal  conditions  for  the  growing  of  peas.  Fresh 
stable  manures  should  never  be  applied  immediately  before  plant- 
ing peas,  but  well-decayed  manures  may  be  used  freely  and  this 
is  a  great  advantage  in  heavy  soils. 

Inasmuch  as  the  pea  is  a  legume  and  acquires  nitrogen  from 
the  atmosphere,  this  element  is  never  used  in  large  amounts  for 
the  growing  of  peas.  It  is  believed  that  applications  of  potassium 
are  beneficial  and  there  is  no  doubt  about  the  necessity  of  liberal 
amounts  of  phosphorus.     If  the  soil  is  in  first  class  condition,  it  is 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS  263 

likely  that  about  400  pounds  of  acid  phosphate  to  the  acre  would  give 
very  good  results  without  any  applications  of  nitrogen  or  potassium. 

1.  When  and  how  should  the  land  be  prepared  for  peas? 

C:334.     S-P:7-ll. 

2.  What  kind  of  crop  is  best  to  precede  peas  ?     S-P :  7. 

3.  How  will  you  f ertiUze  the  land  for  peas  ?     W-VG  :  41 1 .     S-P :  9. 

4.  How  are  peas  fertilized  in  the  sections  where  they  are  grown 

largely  for  canneries  f 

6.  Planting.  —  The  first  planting  of  smooth  peas  should  be 
made  in  the  spring  as  early  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared  and 
successive  plantings  may  be  made  for  several  weeks,  though  the 
earliest  plantings  generally  produce  the  largest  crops.  It  is 
customary  to  plant  the  wrinkled  kinds  somewhat  later  because 
there  is  some  danger  of  the  seeds  rotting  in  the  soil  if  the  weather 
is  very  cool  and  wet. 

The  rows  vary  from  18  inches  to  4  feet  apart,  depending  on  the 
height  of  variety,  method  of  cultivation,  and  whether  supports 
are  used  for  the  vines.  Seed  should  be  used  freely  in  order  to 
obtain  large  yields,  and  this  is  especially  true  of  the  dwarf  varieties. 
From  one  to  two  pints  of  seed  to  100  feet  of  drill  will  give  a  good 
stand  of  plants. 

The  earlier  plantings  are  not  covered  with  more  than  an  inch 
of  soil,  unless  it  is  very  sandy,  while  the  depth  of  covering  at  planting 
should  increase  as  the  season  advances,  so  that  the  roots  of  the 
plants  will  be  at  a  depth  where  the  soil  is  cool  and  moist.  When  the 
seeds  are  covered  with  three  to  five  inches  of  soil  it  is  desirable 
to  fill  the  furrow  gradually  as  the  plants  increase  in  height. 

1.  When  should  smooth  varieties  of  peas  be  planted  ?  Wrinkled 
ones?    W-VG:  412.     L:110.     C :  335.     S-P:  15. 


264  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

2.  What  should  be  the  space  between  rows  for  varieties  of  dif- 

ferent height  ?     W-VG  :  412.     C  :  335. 

3.  What  is  the  proper  rate  of  seeding  ? 

4.  How  deep  should  peas  be  planted?    W-VG  :  412. 

7.  Companion  cropping.  —  It  is  often  possible  to  grow  other 
vegetables  with  the  peas.  For  example,  if  the  pea  rows  are  three 
feet  apart,  there  might  be  two  rows  of  button  radishes  between 
them  and  the  radishes  will  be  marketed  before  there  will  be  any 
interference  from  the  pea  vines.  Numerous  other  intercropping 
plans  containing  peas  are .  commonly  employed  by  market 
gardeners. 

1.    Do  you  think  it  ivill  pay  you  to  grow  one  or  more  other  crops  ivith 
peas?     If  so,  ivhat  crops  and  what  plan  would  you  recommend  f 
W-VG :  479,  484. 

8.  Cultivating.  —  W:256.  Peas  should  have  practically  the 
same  cultivation  as  beans. 

9.  Supporting  the  vines.  —  No  support  of  any  kind  is  used  in 
the  great  commercial  plantations,  but  home  gardeners  as  well  as 
some  market  gardeners  find  it  profitable  to  grow  the  taller  varieties 
which  require  support.  Poultry  netting  is  often  employed,  and 
with  good  care  will  last  for  many  years.  Brush  is  often  used  and 
sometimes  twine  is  stretched  between  stakes. 

1.   Will  it  pay  you  to  support  the  vines  ?     If  sc,  what  kind  of  sup- 
port will  you  provide  ? 
W-VG:  412.     C:335. 

10.  Combating  insects.  —  The  pea  aphis  is  one  of  the  most 
serious  insect  pests.     Tobacco  dust,  scattered  on  the  rows  as  soon 


PULSE  CROP  PROJECTS  265 

as  the  plants  are  up,  is  valuable,  but  the  standard  treatment  is  to 
spray  the  plants  thoroughly  with  nicotine  solutions. 

W-VG  :  413.     CL :  54,  71,  79.     S-P :  36-43. 

Unlike  the  bean  weevil,  the  pea  weevil  does  not  work  in  dried 
peas.  Infested  seed,  even  if  the  germ  is  not  destroyed,  produces 
weakened  vines  which  do  not  set  a  normal  number  of  pods.  The 
beetles  are  similar  in  color  to  the  bean  weevil,  but  are  larger. 
Eggs  are  laid  on  the  surface  of  newly  forming  pods  and  the  young 
weevil  works  through  the  pod  into  a  pea,  where  its  development  is 
completed.  The  insect  is  single  brooded,  and  remains  in  the 
seed  over  winter,  or  may  leave  it  and  hibernate  in  rubbish  near  by. 
It  may  be  controlled  by  fumigation. 

Peas  are  subject  to  several  diseases  of  the  foliage,  stems,  and 
roots,  most  of  which  are  of  only  local  or  minor  importance. 
Spot  is  a  disease  which  results  in  a  spotting  of  the  stems,  leaves,  and 
pods.  It  is  most  noticeable  on  the  pods  when  the  spots  are  cir- 
cular and  sunken  and  is  apt  to  be  the  most  serious  when  the  stems 
are  attacked.  Pea  spot  may  be  controlled  by  crop  rotation  and 
the  planting  of  clean  seed.  Powdery  mildew  is  another  disease 
often  spread  in  infected  seed.  It  may  be  controlled  by  spraying 
with  Bordeaux  mixture.  Bacterial  blight  is  a  disease  of  impor- 
tance in  some  sections.  The  stems  and  leaflets  become  watery  and 
discolored  a  yellowish-brown.  Stem  rot  may  be  of  importance 
as  a  disease  of  seedlings.     Liming  the  soil  is  often  beneficial. 

1.  In  what  respects  do  the  pea  and  the  bean  weevil  differ?     CL :  55. 

2.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  pea  weevil?     CL  :  55-56. 

3.  Should  weevil  peas  be  planted?     State  reasons.     CL  :  56. 

4.  Is  it  safe  to  store  peas  and  beans  as  seed?     CL  :  64. 

5.  Is  control  practicable?     If  so,  describe  the  method.     CL:  64-65. 


266  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

11.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Peas  should  be  picked  after 
they  have  attained  full  size  but  before  they  have  hardened.  This 
requires  alertness  and  prompt  action  on  the  part  of  the  grower. 

Green  peas  are  generally  sent  to  market  in  the  pod,  but  when 
labor  is  available  it  may  pay  to  shell  them  for  local  market. 

1.  What  is  the  best  way  for  you  to  market  your  peas  ?  W-VG  :  413. 

2.  What  profits  might  you  realize  per  acref 


CHAPTER  TEN 
PERENNIAL   VEGETABLE   PROJECTS 

Asparagus,  Rhubarb,  Jerusalem  Artichoke,  Globe  Artichoke 

Asparagus,  rhubarb,  Jerusalem  artichoke,  and  globe  artichoke 
comprise  the  perennial  group  of  vegetables,  and  they  are  men- 
tioned in  order  of  importance.  The  artichokes  are  of  so  little 
importance  that  they  are  not  given  consideration  as  projects. 
The  perennial  vegetables  are  grown  successfully  throughout  the 
North.     They  require  fertile,  well-drained  soils. 

Project  XVIIL     Growing  Asparagus 

Asparagus  belongs  to  the  Hly  family.  Asparagus  and  onions 
are  about  the  only  crop  plants  of  this  large  family,  but  numerous 
ornamental  plants  and  some  bad  weeds  belong  here.  Asparagus 
is  a  native  of  Europe  and  Asia,  where  it  has  been  under  cultivation 
for  more  than  2000  years,  having  been  known  to  the  ancient 
Greeks  and  Romans.  It  is  a  rugged  plant  able  to  withstand  dry 
and  poor  soil  but  doing  best  in  well-tilled  soil  rich  in  vegetable 
matter.  In  addition  to  common  garden  asparagus,  there  are 
several  closely  related  ornamental  species  of  asparagus.  The  so- 
called  "  asparagus  fern  "  {A.  sprengeri)  and  "  plumy  asparagus  " 
used  for  decorative  purposes  and  hanging  baskets,  and  the  *'  smi- 
lax  "  of  greenhouses  belong  to  the  same  genus  as  the  edible  as- 
paragus. 

Asparagus  has  two  sorts  of  stems,  those  growing  underground 
and  those  coming  above  the  ground.    The  underground  stems 

267 


268  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

together  with  the  attached  roots  form  the  **  crown."  From  the 
crown  are  sent  up  stems  or  shoots,  at  first  thick  and  fleshy,  which 
are  often  called  the  "  spears  "  and  which  form  the  edible  part  of 
the  plant.  Scale-like  growths  on  these  fleshy  stems  are  the  real 
leaves.  In  fact  all  of  the  leaves  of  the  asparagus  plants  are  small 
scales  which  do  not  function  at  all  as  ordinary  leaves.  The  green, 
filmy,  leaf-like  structures  are  in  reality  stems  which  are  finely 
divided  and  which  perform  the  functions  of  leaves.  The  flowers 
are  inconspicuous  both  on  account  of  their  small  size  and  greenish- 
yellow  color.  Flowers  which  develop  pollen-bearing  organs  and 
flowers  which  develop  fruits  and  seeds  are  borne  on  different  plants. 
The  former  are  considered  to  be  more  productive.  The  fruit  is  a 
roundish  red  berry  and  usually  contains  two  dark  triangular  seeds. 
The  seeds  remain  alive  for  a  long  time,  possibly  four  or  five  years. 

1.  How  long  has  asparagus  been  under  cultivation? 

2.  How  are  the  "  asparagus   ferns  "  and   "  smilax  "  related  to 

common  asparagus ! 

3.  What  part  of  the  plant  is  the  fleshy  "  spear  "  ? 

4.  What  is  the  structure  of  the  filmy  green  growth  ? 

6.   How  do  the  plants  differ  in  the  kind  of  flowers  produced  ? 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  asparagus? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Selecting  varieties. 

4.  Starting  the  plants. 

5.  Preparing  the  soil. 

6.  Planting. 

7.  Cultivating. 


PERENNIAL  VEGETABLE  PROJECTS  269 

8.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

9.  Maintaining  fertility. 

10.   Harvesting  and  marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  asparagus  ?  —  Asparagus  is  considered  one  of  the 
most  profitable  of  the  vegetable  crops,  wherever  satisfactory 
markets  are  available.  It  is  a  crop,  too,  that  responds  well  to 
scientific  treatment,  thus  enabUng  thoughtful  and  careful  growers 
to  make  splendid  returns. 

The  growing  of  asparagus  does  not  appeal  at  first  to  gardeners 
of  little  experience  who  are  anxious  to  realize  profits  at  the  earliest 
possible  date,  but  to  those  who  are  willing  to  wait  a  few  years 
for  returns  it  offers  excellent  business  opportunities.  Well-man- 
aged plantations  will  produce  profitable  crops  for  fifteen  years 
or  even  longer,  if  the  market  does  not  object  too  seriously  to 
the  diminishing  size  of  the  shoots,  which  is  likely  to  occur  after 
the  plantations  are  eight  to  ten  years  old. 

When  strong  roots  are  planted  in  rich  soil  and  given  the  best 
treatment,  they  should  produce  about  $50  worth  of  asparagus  to 
the  acre  the  second  season,  without  causing  any  harm  to  the 
plants.  The  third  year  probably  $200  an  acre  can  be  cut  without 
any  devitalizing  effect  on  the  plants,  and  $300  to  $500  thereafter, 
depending  on  the  size  of  the  crop  and  condition  of  the  market. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  undertake  the  growing  of  asparagus  as  a 

business  proposition  ?    W-VG  :  223. 

2.  What  should  be  the  gross  returns  over  a  period  of  ten  years?     The 

net  profits?    W-VG  :  223. 

3.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  asparagus  ? 

W-VG:  202.     C:113.    H:l. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  W:271.  The  best  plantations  of  as- 
paragus are  found  in  deep,  rich,  sandy  loams.     If  the  white  or 


270  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

blanched  "  grass  "  is  to  be  grown,  a  sandy  soil  is  almost  indis- 
pensable. However,  markets  do  not  demand  white  shoots  as  much 
as  they  did  years  ago.  The  green  product  is  now  preferred  by  most 
markets  as  well  as  by  the  great  majority  of  consumers.  It  is 
possible,  then,  to  grow  excellent  asparagus  in  any  soil  that  is  fertile 
enough  to  grow  a  good  crop  of  corn.  Deep,  sandy  loams  are  pref- 
erable, but  if  such  soils  are  not  available,  use  heavier  types  and 
improve  them  as  explained  in  W:  271. 

1.  Do  you  have  a  suitable  location  for  growing  asparagus? 

W-VG :  205-206.     L:195.     C:114.    H:43. 

2.  What  is  the  nature  of  your  soil  ? 

3.  What  is  the  character  of  the  soil  in  New  Jersey  where  asparagus 

is  grown  largely  for  market? 

4.  Why  is  sandy  soil  preferable  for  growing  "  white  "  grass  and  what 

is  meant  by  this  term?    W-VG  :  211. 

3.  Selecting  varieties.  —  Of  the  old  varieties,  Palmetto  is 
decidedly  the  best  and  should  be  planted  in  preference  to  Conover, 
Colossal,  or  any  other  of  the  old  sorts.  In  recent  years,  attention 
has  been  called  to  new  rust-resistant  strains  of  superior  merit, 
developed  at  the  Concord  Asparagus  Experiment  Station,  Concord, 
Mass.,  and  one  or  more  of  these  strains  should  be  obtained  if 
possible.  Martha  Washington  and  Mary  Washington  are  among 
the  best. 

1.   What  varieties  should  you  plant  and  what  are  your  reasons  for 
selecting  them  ? 
W-VG  :  204.     H :  17-22.     Bulletins,  Bureau  of  Plant  In- 
dustry, U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture. 

4.  Starting  the  plants.  —  Success  in  growing  asparagus  de- 
pends very  largely  on  our  ability  to  obtain  the  best  seed  of  the 


PERENNIAL  VEGETABLE  PROJECTS  271 

best  varieties  and  to  grow  a  surplus  of  good  plants  so  that  we  do 
not  need  to  use  any  small  or  weak  plants.  Too  much  emphasis 
cannot  be  placed  on  the  importance  of  planting  the  best  stock. 

Another  year  is  required  to  start  the  plants  at  home  but  the 
lost  time  should  be  more  than  made  up  by  increased  profits.  The 
seed  should  be  selected  from  superior  plants,  and  if  such  plants 
are  not  available  in  the  neighborhood,  seed  should  be  ordered  from 
specialists  who  make  a  business  of  selling  high-grade  seed. 

Seed  should  be  sown  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can 
be  prepared,  in  good  garden  soil.  The  seeds  should  be  dropped  2 
or  3  inches  apart  in  shallow  furrows  20  inches  apart.  An  inch  of 
covering  will  be  sufficient  unless  the  soil  is  sandy  and  then  2  inches 
will  be  better.  The  seeds  are  very  slow  to  germinate  so  that  it 
is  a  good  plan  to  drop  radish  seeds  in  the  drills  at  intervals  of  sev- 
eral feet.  These  will  soon  germinate,  and  the  young  plants  will 
mark  the  rows,  thus  enabling  the  use  of  cultivators  before  the 
asparagus  plants  are  up.  A  heavy  mulch  of  fresh  horse  manure 
placed  between  the  rows  about  midsummer  is  very  helpful  in 
encouraging  a  vigorous  growth  of  the  plants. 

Experiments  have  shown  that  large  roots  are  much  more  pro- 
ductive than  small  ones  so  that  it  is  important  to  grow  many  more 
roots  than  will  be  needed  and  then  plant  the  strongest  ones. 

1.  What  kind  of  roots  pay  the  best?     W-VG  :  208. 

2.  How  would  you  proceed  to  grow  your  own  roots  ? 

W-VG:  208.    L  :  193.     H:  30-36. 

3.  Why  is  mulching  with  horse  manure  so  beneficial  in  growing  the 

roots  ? 


5.  Preparing  the  soil.  —  W :  269.  Soil  preparation  should  be 
thorough.  The  plantation  should  yield  satisfactory  profits  for  a 
long  term  of  years.     Unusual  preparation  is  made  for  the  re- 


272  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

markable  asparagus  fields  of  France.  In  the  United  States  many 
growers  plow  down  heavy  clover  sods  in  the  fall  of  the  year  before 
the  asparagus  is  planted.  Others  make  large  applications  of  stable 
manure.  There  is  no  question  about  the  desirability  of  a  liberal 
supply  of  humus.  Commercial  fertilizers  are  also  employed  in 
large  amounts  for  this  crop.  Some  is  used  before  the  roots  are 
planted  and  later  applications  are  made  along  the  rows.  A  high- 
grade  mixture  is  preferred.  Nitrogen  is  highly  essential,  and  phos- 
phorus may  be  the  limiting  factor  in  some  soils.  Before  the  great 
World  War  potash  was  used  in  large  amounts  for  this  crop.  A  mix- 
ture of  200  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda  and  500  pounds  of  acid  phos- 
phate, scattered  along  the  rows  after  the  plants  are  up,  should  be 
highly  beneficial. 

1.  What  crops  might  be  selected  to  precede  asparagus?     Give 

reasons  for  suggesting  them. 

2.  What  preliminary  tillage  operations  are  necessary  ? 

3.  What  kind  of  fertilizer  treatment  do  you  recommend  ? 

W-VG :  213. 

4.  Why  is  a  liberal  supply  of  organic  matter  recommended  for  this 

crop? 

5.  How  do  nitrogen,  phosphorus,  and  potassium  function  in  the 

growing  of  asparagus? 

6.  What  do  you  know  about  the  fertilizer  treatments  for  this  crop  in 

California  and  elsewhere  f     H  :  72-82. 


6.  Planting.  —  Asparagus  should  be  planted  very  early  in  the 
spring.  For  green  shoots  the  rows  need  not  be  more  than  4  feet 
apart,  though  many  growers  allow  more  space.  The  plants  are 
generally  spaced  18  to  24  inches  apart  in  the  row.     The  usual 


PERENNIAL   VEGETABLE   PROJECTS 


273 


274  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

custom  is  to  make  furrows,  about  8  inches  deep,  after  the  land 
has  been  plowed,  disked,  and  harrowed  until  well  prepared. 
It  may  be  necessary  to  make  two  or  three  rounds  with  the  plow 
and  to  use  hand  shovels  before  the  furrows  are  deep  enough. 
However,  we  should  avoid  turning  up  the  subsoil.  Deep  planting 
is  important  because  the  buds  of  each  successive  year  form  a  little 
higher  on  the  crown  and  are  soon  injured  by  tillage  tools  unless 
roots  are  at  good  depth.  The  roots  are  covered  at  first  with  only 
2  or  3  inches  of  soil,  which  is  pressed  firmly  over  the  crown  and 
fleshy  roots,  then  more  soil  is  filled  into  the  trenches  from  time  to 
time,  after  the  plants  are  up,  until  the  surface  of  the  ground  is 
level. 

1.  When  should  asparagus  be  planted  ?    W-VG  :  217.    L :  195. 

2.  What  are  the  proper  planting  distances  to  grow  green  shoots? 

W-VG  :  216.     C  :  115,  117.     H  :  50-53. 

3.  How  deep  should  asparagus  be  planted? 

W-VG:  217.     L:195.     H  :  53. 

4.  How  and  when  should  the  furrows  be  filled  ? 

W-VG  :  218.     L  :  195. 

5.  What  do  you  knoiv  about  the  planting  distances  used  in  other  parts 

of  the  country  f 

6.  What  is  the  relation  of  planting  distances  to  yield f     To  profits? 


7.  Cultivating.  —  W :  68.  The  crop  should  have  clean  tillage 
throughout  the  season,  or  as  long  as  it  is  possible  to  use  a  culti- 
vator between  the  rows.  Early  in  the  spring,  before  cutting 
begins,  and  also  at  the  close  of  the  cutting  season,  a  disk  harrow 
may  be  employed  to  advantage  in  working  over  the  entire  area, 
regardless  of  rows.    A  small  percentage  of  the  buds  in  old  plan- 


PERENNIAL  VEGETABLE  PROJECTS  275 

tations  will  be  destroyed  but  the  benefit  will  far  exceed  the  damage. 
If  the  ground  becomes  very  weedy,  it  is  desirable  to  ridge  up  the 
soil  over  the  rows  at  the  last  cultivation  after  cropping  has  ceased 
and  to  work  these  ridges  down  in  the  spring. 

1.  How  and  when  should  asparagus  plantations  be  cultivated  ? 

W-VG:218.    L:195.     H:61-7L 

2.  What  tools  are  needed  ?     W-VG  :  219. 

8.  Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  The  common  asparagus 
beetle  does  much  harm  to  the  tender  shoots  and  to  the  bushy 
plants  on  which  both  beetles  and  grubs  feed.  The  blackish, 
spindle-shaped  eggs  attached  to  the  leaves  and  stems  attract  as 
much  attention  as  the  strikingly  marked  beetles.  The  beetles 
winter  under  convenient  shelter,  and  emerge  in  early  spring  when 
the  tender  asparagus  tips  begin  to  grow.  Eggs  laid  on  these 
shoots  hatch  into  young  grubs,  which  feed  on  the  tender  stalk 
until  mature,  when  they  enter  the  ground  to  complete  the  trans- 
formation. They  may  be  controlled  by  clean  cutting  of  tender 
shoots,  by  trap  crops,  and  by  poison  sprays. 

Rust  is  the  only  fungous  disease  that  causes  much  damage 
to  asparagus.  This  disease  was  undoubtedly  introduced  from 
Europe.  It  was  first  noted  in  New  England  about  1896.  Since 
that  time  it  has  spread  over  the  entire  country.  In  the  early 
stages  there  is  a  reddening  of  the  tops.  This  is  followed  by  a 
falling  of  the  greenish,  leaf-like  structures,  leaving  the  stalks  bare. 
Late  in  the  season  blackish  raised  spots  appear  on  the  old  stalks. 
These  black  spots  contain  the  spores  which  winter  over.  Old 
tops  with  these  blackish  spots  should  be  cut  off  and  burned.  The 
spears  are  not  affected  but  the  vitality  of  the  plants  is  so  lowered 
by  the  rust  that  the  crowns  become  unproductive.  The  mo^ 
effective  method  of  combating  asparagus  rust  is  the  use  of  resist- 
ant varieties.     The   Palmetto  and  Washington  strains  are  very 


276  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

resistant.     Dusting  with  sulphur  is  effective  in  a  dry  climate  like 
California. 

1.  Why  is  the  asparagus  beetle  so  destructive?     CL :  203. 

2.  Describe  the  color  markings  of  the  beetles.     CL :  201-202. 

3.  Describe  the  grub.     CL  :  203. 

4.  Do  parasites  attack  this  pestf     CL  :  204. 

5.  What  are  some  methods  for  control  f     CL:  204-205. 

6.  What   are    the   symptoms    by   which    asparagus    rust    may    be 

recognized  f     SH  :  149-150. 

7.  Why  should  clean  culture  and  sanitation  be  practiced  ? 

8.  What  is  the  most  effective  method  of  combating  asparagus  rust  ? 

9.  Maintaining  soil  fertility.  —  Both  the  supply  of  organic 
matter  and  plant  food  must  be  maintained  from  year  to  year  in 
order  to  obtain  satisfactory  crops.  As  a  rule,  stable  manure, 
10  tons  or  more  to  the  acre,  is  used  to  keep  up  the  supply  of  humus, 
though  cover  crops  are  employed  to  some  extent.  Part  of  the 
fertilizer  is  applied  early  in  the  spring  and  part  at  the  close  of  the 
cutting  season.  It  is  likely  that  1000  pounds  annually  to  the  acre 
can  be  profitably  applied  in  well-managed  plantations.  Some 
of  the  most  successful  growers  use  double  this  amount.  For 
composition  see  W:  271. 

1.  How  may  the  fertility  of  the  plantation  be  maintained  so  as  to 

secure  satisfactory  net  returns?      W-VG  :  213-216. 

2.  When  should  the  fertilizer  be  applied?     Are  you  certain  that 

any  immediate  benefit  is  derived  from  early  spring  applica- 
tions in  fields  that  are  to  be  cut  ? 


PERENNIAL  VEGETABLE  PROJECTS 


277 


10.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  Asparagus  should  be  cut 
before  the  shoots  begin  to  break  and  form  tops.  In  order  to 
cut  each  shoot  before  this  happens,  the  fields  must  be  looked  over 
frequently,  nearly  every  day,  when  the  growing  conditions  are 
most  favorable.  The 
length  of  the  shoots 
will  be  determined 
largely  by  market  de- 
mands, 7  to  10  inches, 
when  bunched,  being 
the  most  common 
length.  Even  with 
green  shoots,  a  com- 
mon practice  is  to  cut 
the  shoot  2  inches 
or  more  below  the 
surface  of  the  ground. 

The  bunches  should 
be  of  the  proper  size 
to  meet  market  re- 
quirements. They  generally  weigh  from  two  to  three  pounds. 
One  pound  bunches  are  preferred  by  many  consumers,  especially 
when  asparagus  is  selling  at  rather  high  prices.  Asparagus 
should  be  graded,  thoroughly  cleaned,  and  the  bunches  tied  with 
blue  or  red  tape. 

1.  How  often  should  the  plantation  be  looked  over  for  marketable 

shoots?    W-VG:221.     H :  85. 

2.  What  should  be  the  length  of  the  shoots  when  cut  for  market  ? 

W-VG :  22L 

3.  How  should  they  be  harvested  and  prepared  for  market  ? 

W-VG  :  221-223.     L  :  198.     C:118. 


Fig.  69.  —  Asparagus  ready 


278  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

4.  Hoio  many  pound  huyiches  should  he  produced  on  aii  acre  of  land? 

W-VG :  228. 

5.  What  is  the  composition  and  food  value  of  asparagus? 

Project  XIX.     Growing  Rhubarb 

Rhubarb,  known  also  as  pie  plant,  belongs  to  the  buckwheat 
family.  Rhubarb  and  buckwheat  are  the  chief  crop  plants  of 
this  family.  Dock,  knotweed,  and  field  sorrel  are  weeds  which 
belong  here.     Rhubarb  is  a  native  of  Asia. 

Rhubarb  is  a  perennial  plant  with  a  large  root  system  and 
more  or  less  woody  underground  stems.  These  underground 
stems  are  used  in  propagating  the  plant.  The  leaves  come 
up  from  this  underground  shoot  in  the  early  spring,  and  later 
the  shoots  appear  which  bear  the  flowers.  By  removing  the  flower 
shoots  the  nourishment  which  would  go  into  them  is  stored  in 
the  underground  system,  thus  making  more  growth  there.  The 
leaves  are  large,  heart  shaped  at  base,  and  with  prominent  veins. 
The  edible  portions  of  the  plant  are  the  enlarged  leaf  stalks. 
The  quality  of  these  is  best  early  in  the  spring. 

Injuries  to  rhubarb  by  the  rhubarb  curculio  are  caused  by  feed- 
ing and  egg  laying  in  the  leaf  stalks.  The  larvae  cannot  live  in  rhu- 
barb owing  to  the  unusual  amount  of  sap,  and  if  wild  plants 
about  rhubarb  are  destroyed,  the  opportunity  for  their  increase 
will  be  lessened. 

1.  To  what  family  does  rhubarb  belong? 

2.  How  many  kinds  of  stems  does  the  rhubarb  possess? 

3.  What  part  of  the  plant  is  used  for  food  purposes? 

4.  What  insects  affect  rhubarb?     CL:251. 

5.  Why  is  the  curculio  so  serious  a  pest?  .  CL  :  251. 


PERENNIAL   VEGETABLE   PROJECTS  279 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  rhubarb  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Selecting  variety. 

4.  Preparing  soil. 

5.  Planting. 

6.  Cultivating. 

7.  Maintaining  fertility. 

8.  Forcing. 

9.  Harvesting  and  marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  rhubarb  ?  —  Rhubarb  is  grown  in  practically  all 
home  gardens.  It  is  also  produced  throughout  the  country  for 
commercial  purposes.  The  crop  is  easily  grown  and  pays  good 
profits  wherever  a  satisfactory  market  can  be  found,  but  the 
tendency  is  to  overstock  most  of  the  markets,  so  that  very  careful 
consideration  should  be  given  the  matter  before  engaging  in 
rhubarb  culture  as  a  business  proposition. 

1.   Visit  your  markets  and  ascertain  whether  there  is  a  demand  for 
rhubarb  before  deciding  to  make  its  culture  a  business  project. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  W :  269.  Rhubarb  will  thrive  in  any 
well-drained  soil  that  is  adequately  supplied  with  humus  and 
plant  food.  The  soil  requirements  are  about  the  same  as  for 
asparagus  (W:271). 

3.  Selecting  variety.  —  Two  varieties  are  grown  mainly.  Vic- 
torious and  Linnaeus  (also  called  ''Strawberry  ").  The  former  is 
more  vigorous,  but  Linnaeus  produces  beautiful  pink  stalks  that 
are  preferred  by  most  markets. 

1.  What  variety  will  you  select?     W-VG  :  420. 

2.  What  is  known  about  the  history  of  the  rhubarb  ? 

W-VG :  419. 


280  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

4.  Preparing  soil.  —  All  that  was.  said  about  preparing  the  soil 
for  asparagus  (\V  :  271)  apphes  equally  well  to  rhubarb. 

5.  Planting.  —  Though  rhubarb  may  be  propagated  from  seed, 
this  method  is  seldom  employed  because  there  is  such  a  wide 
variation  in  the  character  of  the  seedlings.  The  method  is  of 
doubtful  value,  even  when  the  plants  are  wanted  for  forcing  pur- 
poses. The  usual  method  of  propagation  is  by  root  division. 
After  about  four  crops  of  rhubarb  are  harvested  from  a  plantation, 
the  stalks  become  too  small  to  satisfy  market  demands  and  the 
roots  are  then  plowed  out,  and  often  used  for  forcing.  If  desired 
a  sufficient  number  of  strong  eyes  may  be  saved  to  set  the  new 
plantation. 

The  propagation  of  this  crop  is  an  exceedingly  simple  matter. 
The  roots  or  eyes  are  generally  planted  3X4  or  4X4  feet 
apart.  If  planted  in  check  rows,  a  horse  cultivator  may  be  used 
both  ways,  which  is  a  great  advantage.  The  roots  should  be  planted 
in  furrows  opened  with  a  plow  and  covered  with  several  inches  of 
soil.     Early  spring  is  the  favorite  time  for  planting. 

1.  How  is  rhubarb  propagated  ?     L  :  199.     C  :  403. 

2.  When  should  it  be  planted?     What  are  the  proper  planting 

distances  ?    W-VG  :  420.     L :  199.     C  :  404. 

6.  Cultivating.  —  W  :  274.  Thorough  tillage  should  be  given 
with  horse  cultivators.  The  loss  of  moisture  by  transpiration 
from  the  enormous  leaves  is  very  great,  so  that  the  conservation 
of  soil  moisture  is  an  important  matter  in  growing  large  crops. 

1.   What  kind  of  cultivation  do  you  recommend  for    rhubarb? 
W-VG:  421. 

7.  Maintaining  fertility.  —  Rhubarb  plantations  should  receive 
heavy  applications  of  stable  manure  every  fall,  supplemented  by 
probably  1000  pounds  to  the  acre  of  high-grade  fertilizer,  applied 
early  in  the  spring.  High  fertility  is  essential  in  the  production  of 
large  stalks. 


PERENNIAL  VEGETABLE   PROJECTS  281 

1.   What  procedure  is  necessary  to  maintain  the  fertility  of  a  rhu- 
barb plantation  ?     W-VG:421.     L:200.     C :  403. 

2.     What  is  the  composition  of  rhubarb  f 

8.  Forcing.  —  Rhubarb  is  forced  on  quite  a  large  scale  for 
commercial  purposes.  It  is  a  very  simple  proposition  in  a  hotbed, 
greenhouse,  steam-heated  frame,  residence  cellar,  or  wherever 
some  artificial  heat  can  be  provided.  For  several  years,  the 
author  has  been  forcing  a  few  roots  every  year  in  coal  ashes  placed 
about  five  feet  from  the  hot  water  furnace,  used  to  heat  the 
residence. 

Roots  are  dug  in  the  fall  and  covered  with  leaves  or  other  litter 
until  wanted  for  forcing.  Then  they  are  exposed  to  freezing 
weather  for  a  few  days.  About  two  inches  of  either  hard  or  soft 
coal  ashes  are  placed  on  the  cellar  floor  and  the  roots  set  on  the 
ashes  as  closely  together  as  possible.  Additional  ashes  are  worked 
into  the  spaces  between  the  roots  which  are  covered  to  the  depth 
of  about  two  inches.  The  bed  is  then  soaked  with  water. 
After  the  leaf  blades  begin  to  appear,  brown  paper  is  placed  over 
the  bed  and  more  water  is  applied  at  intervals  of  ten  days  or  two 
weeks.  In  about  thirty  days  the  first  cutting  will  be  ready.  When 
forced  in  subdued  light,  the  leaf  blades  are  mere  rudiments  and  the 
stalks  are  a  beautiful  pink,  exceedingly  tender  and  of  the  best 
quality.  The  skin  is  so  tender  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  peel  the 
stalks.  The  stalks  are  harvested  until  the  roots  are  exhausted,  after 
which  they  are  thrown  away. 

1.  Would  it  pay  you  to  force  rhubarb  ? 

2.  Can  you  explain  the  principles  involved  in  the  forcing  of  rhu- 

barb?   W-VF:191. 


282  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  Explain  the  whole  process  of  forcing  rhubarb. 

W-VF :  190-203.     C  :  404. 

4.  What  do  you  know  about  the  returns  or  profits  of  rhubarb  forcing  f 

W-VF :  202. 

9.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  The  stalks  in  the  open  ground 
plantations  may  be  pulled  as  soon  as  they  have  a  marketable 
length,  and  harvesting  continued  during  the  season  until  the  plants 
begin  to  show  exhaustion.  They  should  be  tied  into  bundles 
of  the  size  desired  by  the  market,  the  number  of  stalks  ranging 
from  a  very  few  to  about  eight.  Many  growers  use  either  blue 
or  red  tape  to  tie  the  bunches. 

1.  How  do  you  think  rhubarb  should  be  prepared  for  your  market  ? 

L  :  200.     C  :  405. 

2.  What  does  your  market  generally  pay  for  rhubarb  ? 

3.  Have  you  any  idea  what  an  acre  should  produce  ? 


CHAPTER    TEN 
SWEET    CORN   PROJECT 

Okra  and  martynia  are  unimportant  vegetables  that  may  be 
included  in  the  sweet  corn  group. 

Project  XX.     Growing  Sweet  Corn 

Corn  is  a  member  of  the  grass  family.  There  are  several 
thousand  species  of  plants  in  this  family.  Here  belong  the  cereals 
or  grains,  such  as  wheat,  oats,  barley,  and  rye,  and  the  meadow 
and  pasture  grasses.  Corn  was  being  cultivated  by  the  Indians 
when  America  was  discovered  and  was  for  a  long  time  known  as 
Indian  corn.  It  has  also  been  called  maize.  Although  not  now 
known  to  exist  in  a  wild  form,  it  is  generally  believed  to  be  a 
native  of  the  warmer  regions  of  America.  It  grows  under  cultiva- 
tion in  the  cooler  areas  but  is  distinctly  a  warm  climate  plant. 

Corn  is  an  annual,  completing  its  life-cycle  and  maturing  seed 
during  a  single  summer.  The  root  system  is  fibrous,  and  although 
the  upper  roots  are  near  the  surface,  the  lowermost  roots  finally 
reach  a  considerable  depth,  possibly  three  feet  or  even  more.  In 
addition  to  the  ordinary  roots,  corn  plants  often  develop  '*  prop  " 
or  "  brace  "  roots  from  the  nodes  just  above  the  surface. 

Corn  is  such  a  large  plant  that  one  scarcely  thinks  of  it  as  be- 
longing with  the  grasses.  There  is  considerable  variation  in  the 
height  of  the  stems.  Some  of  the  dwarf  varieties  are  less  than 
three  feet  in  height,  while  some  forms  reach  a  height  of  fifteen  feet. 
The  stem  is  jointed  and  filled  with  pith.  "  Suckers  "  or  branches 
often  arise  from  the  lower  joints,  but  they  are  considered  undesir- 
able as  they  absorb  considerable  nourishment  but  are  not  usually 

283 


284  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

fruitful.  The  leaves  arise  in  a  true  grass-like  manner  and  consist 
of  two  parts,  the  blade,  and  the  sheath  that  envelops  the  stem. 
The  leaf  blades  have  a  special  structure  which  enables  them  to 
roll  up  under  dry  conditions  when  the  plant  is  not  receiving  suffi- 
cient water.  By  rolling  up,  the  evaporation  of  water  is  retarded. 
When  supplied  with  sufficient  water  the  leaves  flatten  out. 

Corn  plants  have  two  types  of  flowers,  the  pollen-bearing  ones 
being  in  clusters  at  the  top  known  as  the  "  tassel,"  and  the  fruit- 
and  seed-developing  flowers  borne  in  dense  clusters  or  spikes 
in  the  axils  of  leaves  lower  down  on  the  stem.  This  cluster  of 
flowers  when  matured  into  fruit  becomes  the  "  ear."  The  pollen- 
receiving  organs  on  the  young  ears  are  spoken  of  as  ''  silks." 
Cross-pollination,  i.e.  the  transfer  of  pollen  from  the  tassel  of  one 
plant  to  the  silks  of  another,  produces  the  best  yields.  Wind  and 
gravity  are  the  chief  agents  in  distributing  the  pollen.  If  pollen 
from  a  different  strain  happens  to  be  brought  to  the  silks,  crossing 
will  occur  which  may  result  in  new  characters  appearing  at  once. 
If  crossing  is  not  desired,  different  strains  must  not  be  grown  in 
adjoining  plots. 

All  cultivated  corn  is  regarded  as  one  species,  but  there  are 
several  sub-groups  or  sub-species  such  as  flint  corn,  dent  corn, 
pop  corn,  and  sweet  corn. 

1.  To  what  family  does  corn  belong? 

2.  Of  what  region  is  corn  supposed  to  he  a  native? 

3.  What  sort  of  root  system  does  the  corn  plant  develop? 

4.  What  are '*  suckers  " ?     Are  they  desirable? 

5.  How  can  you  tell  when  corn  plants  are  not  obtaining  enough 

water? 


SWEET  CORN  PROJECT  285 

6.  What  do  you  understand  to  be  the  relation  of  cross-pollination  to 

yield? 

7.  If  field  corn  and  sweet  corn  grow  in  adjoining  fields,  would  there 

he  any  noticeable  effect  upon  the  ripening  of  the  ear? 

Project  Outline 

1.  Why  grow  sweet  corn  ? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  Choosing  varieties. 

4.  Preparing  soil. 

5.  Planting. 

6.  Starting  early  plants. 

7.  Cultivating. 

8.  Suckering. 

9.  Combating  insects. 

10.   Harvesting  and  marketing. 

1.  Why  grow  sweet  corn  ?  —  The  growing  of  sweet  corn  for 
commercial  purposes  appeals  to  gardeners  who  are  well  equipped 
with  land,  horses,  and  the  larger  tillage  implements,  and  who 
have  easily  accessible  markets  that  are  not  fully  supplied  with  this 
vegetable.  Gross  receipts  of  $150  to  $300  an  acre  are  possible, 
and  with  good  management  net  profits  should  be  very  satis- 
factory. There  is  an  increasing  demand  for  sweet  corn  of  the 
highest  quality,  and  excellent  prices  can  generally  be  obtained  for 
ears  of  the  best  varieties,  such  as  Golden  Bantam,  marketed  at 
the  proper  stage  of  ripeness. 

1.  Do  you  have  the  proper  facilities  for  the  growing  of  sweet  corn 

for  commercial  purposes  ? 

2.  Do  you  think  sweet  corn  will  pay  you  as  well  as  some  other 

crops  ? 


286  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  Is  your  market  well  supplied  with  this  vegetable  ? 

4.  How  can  the  fodder  be  utilized  to  best  advantage  ? 

W-VG:434.    Wi :  186. 

5.  What  is  the  history  of  sweet  corn  f    Wi :  3-7. 

6.  What  is  the  botany  of  this  plant?    Wi:l.     W:283. 

7.  What  do  you  know  about  the  sweet  corn  canning  industry  of  the 

United  States  f    Wi :  158-185. 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  W  :  40.  Excellent  sweet  corn  may  be 
grown  in  any  soil  that  will  produce  a  good  crop  of  field  corn. 
Southern  or  southeastern  exposures  and  sandy  soils  are  favorable 
to  an  early  crop.  The  heaviest  yields  are  obtained  in  sandy  or 
clay  loams  which  abound  in  plant  food  and  organic  matter.  A 
heavy  clover  sod,  plowed  down  late  in  the  fall  or  early  in  the 
spring,  provides  ideal  conditions  for  the  growing  of  sweet  corn. 
Thorough  soil  drainage  is  always  essential. 

1.  What  is  the  most  favorable  location  for  the  production  of  a 

very  early  crop  of  sweet  corn  ?     Do  you  have  such  a  location  ? 
Wi :  45. 

2.  How  does  sweet  corn  compare  with  field  corn  in  the  require- 

ments of  the  location  ?     C  :  225. 

3.  Why  is  good  soil  drainage  essential  for  sweet  corn  ? 

3.  Choosing  varieties.  —  There  are  many  excellent  varieties  of 
sweet  corn.  Adams  Early  is  very  hardy  and  extremely  early. 
It  is  not  a  sweet  corn  at  all,  but  really  a  white  dent  corn.  This 
variety  may  be  planted  at  least  ten  days  earlier  than  the  usual 
sweet  varieties.  White  Cob  Cory  is  an  excellent  early  sweet  corn 
closely  followed  by  Howling  Mob. 


SWEET  CORN  PROJECT  287 

Golden  Bantam  is  a  universal  favorite  because  of  its  very 
superior  quality.  Many  growers  specialize  with  this  variety  and 
make  successive  plantings  so  as  to  have  marketable  ears  from 
July  until  destructive  frosts  occur  in  the  fall.  Thousands  of 
consumers  now  recognize  this  variety  as  the  leader  in  quality. 

Country  Gentleman  and  Stowell's  Evergreen  are  the  most 
extensively  grown  late  varieties.  Both  are  very  prolific  and  make 
a  large  amount  of  fodder. 

1.  What  varieties  of  sweet  corn  do  you  think  will  pay  you  best? 

W-VG  :  430-431.    Wi :  33. 

2.  How  may  varieties  of  sweet  corn  he  classified? 

W-VG:  430-431.    Wi:  35-37. 

3.  How  does  sweet  corn  vary  in  quality?     Name  varieties  represent- 

ing the  different  degrees  of  quality. 

4.  What  varieties  are  grown  most  largely  for  the  canning  industry  ? 

W-VG:  431. 

4.  Preparing  soil.  —  Soil  that  has  been  properly  prepared  for 
early  cabbage  (W :  99)  will  be  satisfactory  for  the  growing  of 
sweet  corn.  As  previously  indicated  (W :  286)  heavy  sod  land 
should  be  plowed  late  in  the  fall  or  early  in  the  spring.  This  crop 
responds  to  the  liberal  application  of  both  stable  manure  and  com- 
mercial fertilizers.  When  clover  sod  or  leguminous  crops  have 
been  plowed  down,  the  fertilizer  treatment  may  be  restricted  to 
commercial  plant  foods.  Stable  manures  will  probably  be  found 
especially  valuable  in  soils  that  are  thought  to  be  deficient  in 
organic  matter. 

1.  When  should  your  soil  be  plowed  for  sweet  corn? 

2.  Do  you  think  you  should  apply  stable  manure?    If  so,  how 

much?    W-VG:  432.     0:224.    Wi:ll. 


288  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

3.  Will  you  need  commercial  fertilizer  to  make  your  crop  a  success  ? 

What  kind  and  how  much?     W-VG  :  432. 

4.  Prepare  a  statement  of  the  various  manures  and  fertilizers  you 

will  need. 

5.  Planting.  —  In  the  production  of  a  profitable  crop  of  sweet 
corn,  early  planting  is  generally  an  important  factor.  Some 
growers  place  so  much  emphasis  on  early  planting  that  they  take 
considerable  risk  of  the  seed  rotting  because  of  a  cold  soil  and 
the  plants  being  killed  by  spring  frosts.  If  the  first  planting  is 
lost,  it  is  a  simple  matter  to  make  a  second.  In  most  parts  of  the 
North  sweet  corn  may  be  planted  with  comparative  safety  be- 
tween May  1  and  May  10.  Subsequent  plantings  should  be  made 
at  intervals  of  two  weeks  until  July,  provided  the  season  is  long 
enough  for  the  ears  to  reach  the  roasting  ear  stage  from  the  latest 
plantings. 

Though  the  crop  is  often  grown  in  hills,  it  is  more  economical 
to  plant  in  drills  with  a  seed  drill,  the  spacing  of  which  will  depend 
mainly  on  the  height  or  vigor  of  the  varieties  to  be  grown.  For 
tall  sorts,  such  as  Sto well's  Evergreen,  the  rows  should  be  about 
three  and  one-half  feet  apart  and  the  plants  about  a  foot  apart  in 
the  row.  Early  varieties  may  be  planted  in  row  s  three  feet  apart  or 
closer  and  the  plants  do  not  need  so  much  space  in  the  rows. 
Sweet  corn  is  generally  covered  with  about  two  inches  of  soil,  but 
the  earliest  plantings  should  not  be  covered  with  more  than  an  inch. 

1.  When  should  sweet  corn  be  planted  in  your  community  ? 

2.  To  what  extent  should  the  date  of  planting  be  regulated  by  the 

variety  used  ? 

3.  What  are  the  proper  planting  distances  for  the  variety  you  have 

selected?    W-VG  :  433.     C  :  225.     Wi :  19. 

4.  How  deep  should  the  seed  be  covered  ?    Wi :  19. 


SWEET  CORN  PROJECT  289 

6.  Starting  early  plants.  —  \V  :  40.  Some  market  gardeners 
have  found  it  profitable  to  start  part  of  the  plants  under  glass. 
A  cold  frame  will  serve  the  purpose  very  well.  Perhaps  it  is  never 
desirable  to  plant  the  seed  more  than  three  weeks  in  advance  of 
setting  the  plants  in  the  open  ground.  Three-inch  paper  pots, 
filled  with  good  soil,  are  satisfactory.  About  six  grains  of  corn 
should  be  planted  in  each  pot,  and  then  the  plants  should  be 
thinned  to  three  or  four,  and  at  the  proper  time  each  pot  of  plants 
piknted  in  the  field  or  garden  to  make  a  hill. 

¥  1.   Explain  the  details  of  starting  sweet  corn  under  glass. 
/  W-VG:432. 

'^|l.   How  much  time  do  you  think  would  be  gained  in  starting  the 
plants  under  glass? 

3.   Do  you  think  it  would  pay  you  to  use  this  method  ? 

7.  Cultivating.  —  Corn  should  have  thorough  cultivation 
until  it  is  impossible  to  drive  between  the  rows  with  a  horse. 
Any  crusts  formed  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  before  the  plants 
are  up  should  be  broken  by  the  use  of  a  horse-drawn  weeder. 
Some  hand  hoeing  may  be  necessary  to  keep  the  plot  free  from 
weeds.  A  top  dressing  with  nitrate  of  soda  when  the  plants  are  a 
foot  or  two  high  is  common  practice. 

1.  What  implements  will  you  need  to  cultivate  your  sweet  corn  ? 

2.  Give  explicit  directions  for  the  use  of  the  weeder  and  cultivator 

for  this  crop.     Wi :  23-25. 

8.  Suckering.  —  Some  varieties  of  sweet  corn  produce  a  great 
many  shoots  or  suckers  about  the  main  stalk.  There  is  no  ques- 
tion about  their  interfering  more  or  less  with  the  development  of 
large  ears,  and  for  this  reason  it  pays  to  remove  them  as  soon  as 
possible  after  their  appearance.     Wi :  25,  72,  182. 


290 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


9.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. — A  number  of  insects  attack 
sweet  corn,  such  as  wire  worms,  white  grubs,  or  sod  worms,  destroy- 
ing young  plants  soon  after  germination.  Lice  or  other  -sucking  in- 
sects, or  chmbing  caterpillars,  among  which  are  army  worms,  the 
corn  earworm,  and  stalk  borers,  cause  much  injury  in  some  seasons. 


Fig.  70.  —  Corn  root  web  worm;  work 
on  young  corn. 


Fig.  71.  —  Injury  by  corn  earworm. 


The  corn  earworm  is  probably  the  most  important  insect 
enemy  of  sweet  corn.  It  will  live  on  almost  any  vegetable  crop, 
but  has  a  particular  liking  for  tomatoes.  Injuries  are  caused 
by  the  dull  greenish  or  brown  striped  caterpillars  which  hatch 
from  eggs  deposited  in  the  corn  silk  and  gradually  work  through 
into  the  ear,  feeding  first  on  the  outer  kernels  and  later  probably 
damaging  a  large  portion  of  the  ear.  Control  measures  suggested 
are  dusting,  early  planting,  and  spraying  of  tomatoes. 


SWEET  CORN  PROJECT  291 

Smut  is  the  most  widespread  and  destructive  disease  of  sweet 
corn.  It  is  responsible  for  enormous  annual  losses  to  field  corn. 
Stems,  leaves,  tassels,  and  ears  are  attacked  by  the  fungus.  The 
first  signs  are  swellings  covered  with  a  whitish,  glistening  mem- 
brane. Later  the  swellings  break  open  and  expose  blackish, 
powdery  masses  of  spores.  Corn  smut  is  a  difficult  disease  to 
control.  Removal  of  the  smut  masses  tends  to  reduce  the 
amount  of  damage.  They  should  be  destroyed  by  burning.  A 
thick  stand  of  corn  is  most  liable  to  be  smutted  because  crowding 
interferes  with  circulation  of  air  among  the  plants  and  produces 
humid  conditions  favoring  infection. 

1.  What  is  the  range  of  the  corn  ear-worm  in  the    United  States? 

CL:212. 

2.  Name  the  common  vegetables  eaten  by  this  pest.     CL  :  212. 

3.  Whai  is  the  feeding  habit  of  the  corn  ear-worm  f     CL  :  215-216. 

4.  Describe  fully  several  control  practices.     CL  :  217-218. 

5.  What  are  some  other  important  sweet-corn  insects  f 

CL:  218,  222,  225,  227,  228,  229,  233. 

6.  How  may  developing  corn  smut  be  recognized  f     SH :  284. 

7.  What  measures  may  be  practiced  to  reduce  the  injury  from  smut  f 

SH:286. 

10.  Harvesting  and  marketing.  —  The  quality  of  sweet  corn 
depends  very  largely  upon  the  stage  of  maturity  when  the  ears 
are  pulled.  The  kernels  should  be  plump  and  tender.  If  under- 
ripe, flavor  is  lacking ;  if  over-ripe,  the  hard  kernels  are  objec- 
tionable as  human  food.  Experience  can  soon  be  acquired  which 
will  enable  one  to  pull  practically  all  the  ears  at  the  proper  time 
without  examining  the  kernels  of  each  ear. 


292  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Sweet  corn  is  sold  by  the  dozen,  or  by  the  hundred  ears,  and 
sometimes  by  weight  and  measure.  Various  styles  of  hampers 
and  crates  are  used  for  shipping  the  crop. 

1.  To  what  extent  is  the  quality  of  sweet  corn  determined  by  the 

stage  of  maturity  when  the  ears  are  pulled  ?     C  :  336.    Wi :  31 . 

2.  What  is  the  best  package  for  the  marketing  of  your  crop  ?     How 

many  packages  will  you  need  ? 


CHAPTER  ELEVEN 
THE   HOME    GARDEN   PROJECT 

The  World  War  emphasized  the  importance  of  the  home  garden. 

It  has  made  large  contributions  to  the  nation's  food  supply. 
Never  before  have  our  people,  as  a  nation,  so  fully  realized  the 
possibilities  of  materially  adding  to  our  food  supply  through  the 
cultivation  of  thousands  of  small  home  plots. 

Project  XXI.     Making  the  Home  Garden 

1.  Why  have  a  home  garden? 

2.  Selecting  location. 

3.  When  to  plant. 

4.  What  to  plant. 

5.  How  much  to  plant. 

6.  Making  garden  plans. 

7.  Obtaining  seed. 

8.  Making  germination  tests. 

9.  Starting  early  plants. 

10.  Selecting  tools. 

11.  Preparing  soil. 

12.  Planting. 

13.  Cultivating. 

14.  Hoeing. 

15.  Weeding. 

16.  Thinning. 

17.  Combating  insects  and  diseases. 

18.  Harvesting  the  crops. 

19.  Storing  the  late  crops. 

293 


294  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

1.  Why  have  a  home  garden  ?  —  A  great  many  people  who  like 
to  grow  vegetables  do  not  care  to  produce  them  for  commercial 
purposes.  This  is  true  of  many  students  and  members  of  boys' 
and  girls'  clubs.  Then,  why  not  make  a  home  garden  —  the 
best  in  your  community?  It  is  quite  unnecessary  to  produce 
arguments  in  favor  of  home  gardening.  Who  doesn't  prefer 
vegetables  from  his  own  plot  and  produced  by  his  own  labor, 
to  the  ones  that  are  available  at  the  public  markets?  Health, 
pleasure,  and  perhaps  profit  are  the  rewards  of  the  diligent  gar- 
dener. It  is  natural  for  all  members  of  the  family,  old  and  young, 
to  be  interested  in  a  well-planned  and  well-kept  vegetable  garden. 
As  a  real  project  for  students,  club  members,  and  home  keepers,  it 
offers  many  inducements.  No  farmer  should  consider  his  farm 
complete  without  a  garden  ample  for  the  year-around  needs  of  his 
family.  Not  only  will  his  table  be  more  attractive  in  summer 
with  such  a  garden,  but  there  will  be  a  surplus  for  canning  and 
winter  storage,  and  the  health  of  his  family  will  be  greatly  im- 
proved by  the  better-balanced  diet  thus  made  possible. 

1.  Will  it  pay  you  to  make  a  home  garden  instead  of  tmdertaking 

a  commercial  gardening  project? 

2.  What  are  the  benefits  and  advantages  of  home  gardens  ? 

2.  Selecting  location.  —  It  often  happens,  especially  in  cities 
and  villages,  that  there  can  be  no  choice  of  location,  for  the 
garden  must  be  made  on  whatever  ground  is  available.  In  the 
open  country,  however,  where  it  is  generally  possible  to  select  areas 
that  are  the  best  adapted  to  this  important  purpose,  the  following 
factors  should  have  consideration : 

1.  The  plot  should  be  located  as  conveniently  as  possible  to 
the  residence.  This  is  especially  important  when  the  garden 
makers  must  also  attend  to  most  of  the  household  duties. 

2.  Sandy  loams  provide  the  best  conditions  for  the  growing 


THE  HOME  GARDEN  PROJECT  295 

of  the  viirious  classes  of  vegetables,  especially  the  root  crops. 
However,  almost  any  soil  iiiay  be  treated  so  as  to  produce  good 
vegetables.     W:  305. 

3.  Southern  or  southeastern  exposures  are  best,  because  they 
are  warmer  and  produce  earlier  crops. 

4.  Good  soil  drainage  is  absolutely  essential.  If  there  is  any 
question  about  this  matter,  the  soil  should  be  properly  tile-drained. 

5.  A  full  amount  of  sunshine  is  necessary  for  the  best  results. 
Buildings  and  trees  that  would  shade  the  garden  should  be 
avoided  as  much  as  possible. 

1.  What  are  the  ideal  soil  conditions  for  a  home  garden? 

2.  What  other  factors  should  be  considered  in  selecting  a  location  ? 

3.  Give  as  minute  description  as  possible  of  the  soil  that  you  will 

use. 

3.  When  to  plant.  —  The  home  garden  planting  table  on  the 
last  page  of  this  book  will  be  found  very  useful  in  determining  the 
date  when  each  vegetable  should  be  planted.  To  Mr.  John 
R.  Bechtel  of  The  Pennsylvania  State  College  is  due  the  credit 
for  this  table,  which  appears  in  Extension  Circular  No.  76.  The 
dates  given  are  for  Pennsylvania,  but  they  apply  equally  well  to 
most  parts  of  the  North.  Vegetables  rnay  be  classified  into  four 
groups,  according  to  their  temperature  requirements.  The 
groups  are  described  and  listed  as  follows  by  Mr.  Bechtel: 

1.  ''Very  hardy"  crops  include  the  vegetables  that  are  not 
injured  by  severe  midwinter  freezing,  such  as  asparagus,  horse- 
radish, parsnip,  rhubarb,  salsify,  and  the  winter  onion. 

2.  ''  Hardy  "  crops  thrive  during  cool  weather,  and  will  with- 
stand the  frosts  of  spring  and  early  fall,  but  not  severe  freezing. 
Such  crops  are  cabbage,  cauliflower,  beet,  carrot,  turnips,  lettuce, 
endive,  onion,  pea,  radish,  and  spinach.   All  crops    falling    in 


296  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

classes  one  and  two  may  be  planted  with  safety  as  early  in  the 
spring  as  the  ground  can  be  prepared. 

3.  ''  Tender  "  crops  are  those  which  are  quickly  injured  by  frost 
—  such  as  snap  beans,  sweet  corn,  cucumber,  squash,  and  tomato. 

4.  *'  Very  tender  "  crops  are  those  that  may  be  injured  by  con- 
tinued cool  weather  without  frost.  They  should  not  be  planted 
until  the  ground  has  become  warm,  usually  about  May  20  to  June 
10.     Such  crops  are  lima  bean,  eggplant,  muskmelon,  and  pepper. 

1.  How  are  vegetables  classified  according  to  temperature  require- 

ments ? 

2.  What  are  the  vegetables  in  the  several  groups  ? 

3.  When  do  you  think  each  vegetable  should  be  planted  in  your 

section  ? 

4.  Ascertain  as  many  dates  as  possible  of  killing  spring  frosts  in 

your  neighborhood. 

4.  What  to  plant.  —  There  are  three  main  considerations  in 
determining  what  to  plant  in  the  home  garden.  Family  prefer- 
ences should  have  first  thought.  It  is  folly  to  grow  any  consider- 
able quantity  of  vegetables  that  are  not  popular  on  the  home 
table.  We  should  produce  an  abundance  of  those  for  which  there 
is  a  lively  home  demand.  Second,  the  food  value  of  the  various 
kinds  of  vegetables  should  have  special  consideration  in  these  times 
of  high  food  prices.  For  example,  meats  are  very  expensive  and 
it  is  easily  possible  to  reduce  the  cash  outlay  for  protein  foods, 
including  meats,  fish,  and  eggs,  by  growing  peas  and  beans,  which 
have  a  large  protein  content.  At  the  same  time  there  should  be  a 
complete  list  of  the  salad  plants  and  other  vegetables  that  are  com- 
posed mainly  of  the  carbohydrates.  Those  which  are  rich  in  the 
vitamines  should  also  have  consideration.     Third,  we  should  strive 


THE  HOME  GARDEN  PROJECT 


297 


to  make  such  plantings  as  will  provide  vegetables  for  every  month 
of  the  year.  Too  often  the  tendency  is  to  make  liberal  plantings  of 
the  classes  that  are  edible  during  the  summer  and  fall  months,  but 
cannot  be  stored  or  preserved  for  winter  consumption.     Too  much 


Fig.  72.  —  A  student  garden  showing  various  combinations  of  companion  cropping. 

thought  cannot  be  given  the  whole  problem  of  what  to  plant  to 
meet  fully  the  requirements  of  the  family. 

1.  What  are  the  main  considerations  in  determining  what  veg- 

etables to  plant  in  the  home  garden  ? 

2.  How  do  vegetables  dififer  in  their  composition  and  food  values  ? 


5.   How  much  to  plant.  —  This  is  always  a  perplexing  problem 
to  the  inexperienced  gardener,  and  often  to  those  who  have  had  con- 


298 


THE  HOME  GARDEN  PROJECT  299 

siderable  experience.  In  most  garden  operations  the  tendency  is 
to  plant  too  largely  of  certain  vegetables,  which  generally  results 
in  the  waste  of  plant  food,  labor,  and  a  portion  of  the  crops.  Most 
home  gardeners  plant  more  of  the  early  crops,  as  lettuce  and 
radishes,  than  can  be  utilized,  and  there  is  usually  a  shortage  of  the 
vegetables  that  are  valuable  for  winter  storage  such  as  celery  and 
the  root  crops.  A  very  careful  study  should  be  made  of  the  family 
requirements  and  the  planting  made  accordingly.  The  following 
table,  prepared  by  Mr.  Bechtel,  gives  the  estimated  requirements 
for  a  family  of  five  and  also  the  approximate  yield  of  small  plant- 
ings : 

Estimated  Requirements  of  a  Family  of  Five 

CROP  No    FEKT  OP  ROW  iT/oTirK?.  RoT 

Asparagus 100  ft 100  lb. 

Bush  bean    (4  plantinos)  .  50  ft.  each  planting     ....      1|  bu.  (pods) 

Bush  lima    (1  plantino)     .     400  ft 1.5  qts.  (shelled) 

Beet 75  ft.  early,  100  ft.  late 2  bu. 

Cabbage 50  ft.  early,  100  ft.  late 50  heads 

Carrot 50  ft.  early,  100  ft.  late 2  bu. 

Cauliflower,  lati^  ....       50  ft 50  heads 

Celery 50  ft.  early,  100  ft.  late 200  stalks 

Chard 10  ft 

Chicory 100  ft 2^  bu.  (roots) 

Chinese  cabbage  ....       25  ft 100  heads 

Chive .         5  ft 

Corn  (6  plantings)    ...       50  hills  each 8  doz. 

Cucumber 10  hills l^bu. 

Eggplant 40  ft 150  fruit 

Horseradish 15  ft 70  lb. 

Kale 20  ft 3  bu. 

Kohlrabi     ......       25  ft.  early,  50  ft.  late 

Lettuce .50  ft '    .     . 

Muskmelon 10  hills 60  fruits 

New  Zealand  spinach  .     .       10  ft 

Onion  (sets)  green    .     .     .     100  ft 

Onion  (sets  or  seed)  mature  100  ft 1^  bu. 

Parsley 5  ft 


300  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

Crop  No.  Feet  op  Row  ^J^'^'^ln^^''^  V^'''' 

FROM  100-FT.  Row 

Parsnip 40  ft 3  bu. 

Peas 300  ft.  (more  for  canning)       ...  2  bu.  (pods) 

Pepper 25  ft 400  fruit 

Potato 100  ft.  early,  1400  ft  (l/lO  A)  late     .     .    1|  bu. 

Radish 150ft 

Rhubarb 15  ft 

Rutabaga 100  ft 2  bu. 

Salsify 100  ft 2  bu. 

Spinach 50  ft.  at  each  of  3  plantings      .     .     .     .  2|  bu. 

Squash 8  hills  summer,  10  hills  late 

Tomato 50  plants  (enough     .     .     J  10  bu.   (staked)  or 

for  canning)     .     .     |     6  bu.  (not  staked) 
Turnip 50  ft.  early,  100  ft.  late 2  bu. 

1.  What  will  be  the  requirements  of  each  crop  for  the  family 
which  you  will  supply  ?  (This  question  should  be  worked  out 
in  as  much  detail  as  possible.) 

6.  Making  garden  plans.  —  We  cannot  hope  to  have  satis- 
factory home  gardens  without  making  careful  plans.  The  plans 
should  be  developed  during  the  winter  and  then  there  should  be 
no  delay  and  very  few  mistakes  in  starting  the  real  operations  the 
following  spring. 

The  following  fundamentals  should  have  consideration  in  the 
development  of  home  garden  plans. 

1.  The  vegetables  should  be  planted  in  straight  rows  to  facili- 
tate cultivating  with  a  wheel  hoe. 

2.  Perennial  crops  like  rhubarb,  asparagus,  and  horse  radish 
should  be  planted  along  one  side  of  the  garden,  so  that  they  will 
not  interfere  with  the  planting  of  the  annual  crops. 

3.  The  early,  quickly  maturing  crops,  as  radishes,  lettuce, 
bunch  onions,  etc.,  should  be  planted  in  a  strip  at  one  side  of  the 
garden,  perhaps  next  to  the  perennial  vegetables,  where  they  can 
be  followed  by  later  crops,  and  the  remainder  of  the  garden  pre- 
pared and  planted  at  the  proper  time. 


THE  HOME  GARDEN  PROJECT 


301 


302 


VEGETABLP]  GROWING  PROJECTS 


4.  The  tall  plants,  as  corn  and  peas,  should  be  placed  so  that 
they  will  not  shade  the  other  crops. 

5.  It  is  necessary  to  practice  companion  and  succession  cropping 
in  order  to  utilize  all  of  the  ground  to  the  best  advantage.  Satis- 
factory plans  for  the  economical  use  of  the  soil  throughout  the 


Fig.  75. — A  well-managed  war  garden.     There  are  no  vacancies  in  this  garden. 

season  cannot  be  made  without  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the 
plants  to  be  grown,  with  special  reference  to  their  habit  of  growth 
and  time  of  maturity. 

There  is  no  model  plan  that  is  equally  suitable  for  all  home 
gardens.  Every  plan  should  be  prepared  with  a  view  of  getting 
the  best  results  for  the  family  to  be  supplied.  It  is  believed,  how- 
ever, that  the  plans,  prepared  by  Mr.  Bechtel,  and  published  in 
Extension  Circular  No.  76  of  The  Pennsylvania  State  College, 
will  be  found  exceedingly  helpful,  especially  to  those  who  have  had 
little  experience  as  garden  makers.     See  page  299. 


THE  HOME  GARDEN  PROJECT  303 

1.  What  are  the  most  important  fundamental  considerations  in 

the  making  of  garden  plans  ? 

2.  What  should  you  know  about  plants,  their  habits  of  growth, 

temperature  requirements,  and  time  of  maturity  ? 

3.  Make  a  plan  of  the  garden  which  you  will  plant.     Be  original, 

but  be  certain  you  are  right  in  the  placing  of  each  vegetable. 

7.  Obtaining  seed.  —  The  utmost  care  should  be  exercised  in 
obtaining  seed  for  the  home  garden.  There  may  be  specialists 
in  the  community  who  could  spare  a  little  seed  of  their  choice 
strains.  It  is  often  possible  to  procure  seed  of  superior  quality 
from  well-known  specialists  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  When 
ordered  by  catalogue,  we  should  be  certain  that  we  are  patronizing 
a  reliable  house  that  will  send  good  seed  of  the  varieties  wanted. 

1.  Where   will  you   obtain   the   seeds  required  for  your  home 

project  ? 

2.  Prepare  a  complete  list  of  the  seeds  required  and  determine  their 

cost. 

3.  Order  seeds  as  early  as  possible  after  the  new  catalogues  are 

received.     Early  orders  are  more  likely  to  be  filled  with  the 
best  seed. 

8.  Making  germination  tests.  —  It  is  a  simple  matter  to  make 
a  germination  test  of  the  seeds  to  be  planted.  This  may  be  done 
by  counting  and  planting  twenty  to  one  hundred  seeds  of  each  lot 
in  a  box  placed  in  a  warm,  sunny  window.  If  preferred,  the  seeds 
may  be  placed  between  blotters  that  are  kept  moist,  or  in  a  strip 
of  cloth  that  is  rolled  up  and  tied  and  then  dipped  in  warm  water, 
more  water  being  added  whenever  it  is  necessary  in  order  to  keep 
the  cloth  moist.     If  the  seeds  are  kept  in  a  warm  place  they  will 


304 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


soon  sprout,  when  the  viable  ones  may  be  counted  and  the  per- 
centage of  germination  determined. 

1.  Make  a  germination  test  of  the  seeds  you  will  plant,  give  a 
written  explanation  of  the  method  employed  and  a  report  of 
the  results. 


9.   Starting   early  plants. —It  is  impossible  to  produce   the 
earliest  crops  of  cabbage,  cauliflower,  tomatoes,  peppers,  egg- 


FiG.  76. — A  community  display  of  vegetables. 

plant,  lettuce,  celery,  and  a  few  other  vegetables  of  minor  impor- 
tance without  starting  the  plants  under  glass.  A  hotbed,  which 
later  may  be  used  as  a  cold  frame,  will  serve  the  purpose  very  well. 
Instructions  regarding  hotbed  construction  and  the  various  phases 
of  starting  plants  under  glass  may  be  found  in  W :  44. 

1.   What  equipment  will  you  need  to  start  your  plants  under  glass  ? 


THE  HOME  GARDEN  PROJECT  305 

2.  When  should  each  kind  of  vegetable  be  sown? 

3.  How  much  seed  will  you  need  to  sow  of  each  kind  that  should 

be  started  under  glass  ? 

4.  When  should  the  seedlings  be  transplanted  into  the  cold  frame 

and  how  much  space  will  they  need  ? 

5.  What  do  you  know  about  the  hardening  of  plants?     W :  63. 

10.  Selecting  tools.  —  Comparatively  little  time  is  required  to 
make  and  maintain  a  good  garden  if  you  have  the  proper  tools, 
and  the  pleasure  derived  will  depend  very  largely  upon  this  factor. 
In  too  many  instances  a  spading  fork  or  shovel,  hoe,  rake,  and  line 
constitute  the  entire  equipment.  In  addition  to  these  tools  there 
should  be  perhaps  two  or  three  styles  of  hoes,  besides  a  trowel, 
dibber,  hand  weeders,  labels,  and  by  all  means  a  good  single  or 
double- wheel  hoe.  With  a  wheel  hoe  one  can  cultivate  a  large 
garden  in  a  remarkably  short  period  as  compared  with  the  time 
that  is  necessary  to  cover  the  same  area  with  an  ordinary  hoe.  A 
hand  sprayer  may  be  needed  and  a  hose  and  sprinkling  can  are 
always  useful. 

1.   What  tools  will  you  need  for  your  garden  and  what  will  they 
cost  ?    How  are  they  used  ? 

11.  Preparing  soil.  —  The  preparation  of  the  home  garden  soil 
should  be  as  nearly  perfect  as  possible.  Large  results  will  be 
expected  from  this  intensively  farmed  area.  There  should  be, 
therefore,  no  uncertainty  about  the  soil  being  as  good  as  it  is 
possible  to  have  it.  Drain  it  if  necessary.  Then  apply  lime, 
stable  manure,  and  commercial  fertilizer  in  the  proper  amounts. 
Be  thorough.    W:63. 

12.  Planting.  —  When  the  proper  date  arrives  for  planting  and 
the  soil  is  well  prepared  and  contains  the  right  degree  of  moisture. 


306 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


THE   HOME   GARDEN  PROJECT  307 

no  time  should  be  lost.  Promptness  in  planting  is  an  exceedingly 
important  factor  in  garden  making.  Because  of  late  plantings, 
thousands  of  families  do  not  have  vegetables  from  their  own 
gardens  as  early  as  they  should. 

13.  Cultivating.  —  Clean  tillage  is  one  of  the  secrets  of  a  suc- 
cessful garden.  As  previously  indicated  (W :  68)  it  conserves  soil 
moisture  besides  serving  several  other  very  useful  purposes.  The 
wheel  hoe  should  be  used  as  often  as  necessary  to  keep  the  surface 
of  the  soil  fine  and  loose. 

1.  How  soon  should  the  garden  be  cultivated  after  a  heavy  rain  ? 

2.  How  deep  do  you  think  your  garden  should  be  cultivated  ? 

3.  How  long  will  it  take  you  to  cultivate  your  garden  with  a  wheel 

hoe  ?     With  a  hand  hoe  ? 

14.  Hoeing.  —  Though  the  garden  is  cultivated  regularly  and 
thoroughly  with  a  wheel  hoe,  more  or  less  hand  hoeing  is  usually 
necessary  to  destroy  weeds  in  the  rows,  and  also  to  maintain  a 
fine,  loose  soil  over  the  entire  garden  area.  It  is  desirable  to  have 
several  types  of  hoes,  if  possible,  such  as  a  hilling  hoe  with  a  five- 
or  six-inch  blade,  a  two-pronged  hoe  with  a  narrow  cutting  blade, 
a  hoe  with  a  broad  cutting  blade  and  six  or  eight  rake-like  teeth, 
and  a  scuffle  hoe. 

15.  Weeding.  —  With  small  plants,  such  as  onions,  beets, 
radishes,  lettuce,  parsnips,  and  parsley,  weeds  often  appear  in  the 
rows  close  to  the  plants  where  it  is  impossible  to  remove  many 
of  them  with  either  the  wheel  hoe  or  a  hand  hoe.  In  this  case  we 
must  use  a  small  hand  weeder  —  there  are  various  types  of  hand 
weeders  —  and  perhaps  pull  by  hand  some  of  the  weeds  which  are 
difficult  to  remove  with  any  tool.  However,  if  the  soil  has  been 
properly  managed  and  the  ground  thoroughly  cultivated,  the  labor 
of  weeding  will  be  very  slight. 

1.   What  hand  weeders  do  you  think  are  most  useful? 


308 


VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 


16.  Thinning.  —  Vegetables  like  onions,  radishes,  lettuce,  beets, 
and  carrots  generally  require  some  thinning  to  prevent  crowding 
and  to  give  each  plant  the  space  it  needs  to  attain  full  development. 
This  operation  should  have  attention  as  soon  as  possible  after  all 
the  plants  are  up.  The  hand  weeders  may  be  used  for  this  pur- 
pose, removing  weeds  at  the  same  time. 

1.   What  should  be  the  spacing  of  the  vegetables  that  generally 
require  thinning? 


17.   Combating  insects  and  diseases.  —  The  home  gardener 
should  be  constantly  alert  for  enemies  that  may  appear  suddenly 

arid  cause  great  harm  before 
their  ravages  are  checked.  He 
should  be  well  informed  regard- 
ing the  nature  of  the  various 
plant  pests,  and  take  precau- 
tionary measures  as  much  as 
possible.  Consult  spray  cal- 
endars. 

The  back  yard  garden  seems 
to  be  the  rendezvous  for  insect 
pests.  Accumulations  of  refuse, 
decaying  board  walks,  humid 
hiding  places,  or  untrimmed  bushes,  all  provide  conditions  favor- 
able to  hibernation  or  unarrested  development  of  insect  life. 
Control  for  these  pests  is  difficult,  owing  to  lack  of  proper  spray- 
ing apparatus,  but  in  some  instances,  as  already  pointed  out, 
practices  may  be  followed  in  the  home  garden  which  would  be 
impracticable  in  larger  plantings.  Often  a  home-made  apparatus 
will  be  satisfactory  if  only  a  few  plants  are  considered, 
and  here  also  dusting  or  proprietary  commercial  spray 
materials  may  be  more  usable  than  the  standard  sprays. 
Keeping    rubbish  from  accumulating  about  the  garden   is  one 


Fig.  78.  —  Wire  worm. 


THE   HOME   GARDEN  PROJECT  309 

of  the  most  valuable   preventatives  of  insect    attacks   in    small 
plantings. 

The  following  pests  are  particularly  troublesome  in  small 
gardens,  and  for  convenience  of  the  student  are  discussed  under 
this  caption : 

Cut-worms  (various  species) :  Plants  set  in  the  field  sometimes 
wilt  or  are  entirely  cut  off  at  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Upon 
removing  the  soil  just  at  the  base  of  the  plant,  a  dirty -colored, 
naked  caterpillar  is  found.  This  is  a  cut-worm,  named  from  its 
usual  habit  and  one  of  the  most  trouble- 
some pests  of  the  garden.  Cut-worms 
are  the  younger  stages  of  moths  which 
are  active  only  at  night.  The  adults 
are  active  in  July  and  August,  laying 
eggs  in  fields  grown  to  weeds  of  any 
kind.  Worms  hatch  from  these  eggs, 
and  feed  for  a  few  weeks  in  the  fall, 
then  pass  the  winter  in  the  soil.      In  ,,.„.     , 

^  .  .  Fig.  79.  —  Millipede. 

the  sprmg,  they  become  active  and  re- 
sume feeding  on  the  first  green  plants.     The  following  methods 
of   control    are    suggested :    In  large   areas,  free    cultivation  in 
summer,  fall  plowing,  early  spring  cultivation,  poison  mash. 

White  grubs :  These  larvae  of  the  common  June  beetle  are  the 
large  white  grubs  that  are  often  found  curled  up  in  the  ground 
at  the  base  of  a  plant.  The  female  deposits  eggs  in  the  old  sod 
ground,  preferably  where  the  grubs  can  feed  on  the  grass  roots 
during  the  three  or  more  years  necessary  to  complete  its  life  cycle. 
Consequently  crops  grown  on  newly  plowed  sod  ground  are  most 
likely  to  be  attacked.     Crop  rotation  is  a  means  of  control. 

Wire  worms :  These  insects  work  within  the  soil,  feeding  on 
newly  sprouting  seeds,  or  on  root  crops,  or  tubers.  They  are  more 
troublesome  in  newly  plowed  sod  land,  owing  probably  to  the  fact 
that  the  larvae  live  in  sod  land  during  the  three-  to  six-year  life 


310  VEGETABLE  GROWING  PROJECTS 

cycle.  Wire  worms  are  long,  hard-bodied,  yellow  or  brownish 
larvae,  the  adults  of  which  are  the  well-known  snapping  beetles. 
They  may  be  controlled  by  crop  rotation,  and  poison  baits. 

Millipedes :  Recently  germinated  corn  and  other  seeds,  and 
fruits,  if  resting  on  the  ground,  may  be  destroyed  or  spoiled  by  a 
rather  long,  round  segmented  animal,  having  two  pairs  of  legs  on 
all  but  the  four  front  segments.  No  satisfactory  method  of  con- 
trol is  known.     Trapping  or  dusting  is  sometimes  effective. 

Slugs  :  Radishes,  lettuce,  cabbage,  beans,  and  various  root  crops 
are  often  spoiled  by  a  grayish  spotted  slug  having  on  its  body  a  slimy 
protective  covering  that  adheres  to  the  surface  on  which  it  travels. 
These  pests  appear  to  prefer  moist  locations  especially,  seeking 
hiding  places  beneath  stones  or  decaying  wood,  away  from  strong 
sunlight.  As  the  drying  of  the  slimy  coat  will  kill  them,  an 
application  of  air-slaked  lime  on  and  about  the  plants  is  suggested. 
Poison  bait  or  poisoned  tubers  used  as  traps  are  efficient. 

Information  on  control  of  diseases  of  vegetables  will  be  found 
in  the  various  chapters  in  connection  with  the  notes  on  "  Com- 
bating Insects  and  Diseases." 

1.  What  causes  plants  to  wilt  and  to  be  cut  off  at  the  ground? 

CL :  260. 

2.  What  is  the  life  history  and  habit  of  a  cut-worm  ?    CL :  260. 

3.  Which  is  the  best  remedy,  culture  or  trapping  ?     CL :  298. 

4.  When  are  white  grubs  most  injurious  ?     CL  :  346. 

5.  What  is  the  life  history  of  the  white  grub  ?     CL :  345-346. 

6.  Can  any  crops  be  safely  grown  on  infested  land  ?     CL :  346. 

7.  Can  broods  of  the  insect  be  anticipated  ?     CL :  347. 


THE   HOME   GARDEN  PROJECT  311 

8.  Give  a  control  practice.     CL  :  346-347. 

9.  What  is  the  life  history  of  a  wire  worm  ?     CL  :  347-348. 

10.  Name  several  species  and  describe  their  work.     CL :  348-350. 

11.  How  do  wire  worms  work?     CL :  347. 

12.  Give  several  control  measures.     CL  :  350. 

13.  What  is  a  good  crop  rotation  ?     CL  :  350. 

14.  How  do  millipedes  dififer  from  wire  worms?     CL  :  342,  347. 

15.  Describe  the  work  of  millipedes.     CL :  342,  344. 

16.  How  does  a  snail  eat?     What  is  its  appearance?    What  is 

its  life  history  ?     CL :  354-355. 

17.  Name  several  vegetables  attacked  by  insects  and  describe 

the  injury.     Give  several  satisfactory  remedies. 
CL :  356,  357. 

18.  Harvesting  the  crop.  —  The  highest  quaHty  in  most  vege- 
tables cannot  be  obtained  unless  the  crops  are  harvested  at  the 
proper  time.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  root  crops,  peas,  beans, 
tomatoes,  cucumbers,  melons,  and  sweet  corn. 

1.   What  is  the  proper  time  to  harvest  each  class  of  vegetables 
which  you  will  grow  in  your  home  garden  ? 

19.  Storing  the  late  crop.  —  The  successful  storage  of  late  crops 
is  an  important  part  of  the  home  gardening  operations.  A  great 
diversity  of  methods  may  be  employed.     W  :  197. 


HOME   GARDEN 


Longevity 

Rows  Apart 

Rows  Apart 

Vegetables 

Seeds  Required 

OF  Seed 

Hand  Culti- 

Horse Culti- 

Years 

vation 

vation 

Asparagus 

1  yr.  old  roots 

3-5 

42-48  in. 

42-48  in. 

Bean  (snap) 

1  pt.  —  100  ft. 

2-3 

18-24  in. 

24-36  in. 

Bean  (dry  shell) 

i-1  pt.  —  100  ft. 

2-3 

20-24  in. 

24-36  in. 

Bean  (pole) 

1  pt.  —  100  ft. 

2-3 

,  36         in. 

36-48  in. 

Bean  (bush  lima) 

1  pt.  —  100  ft. 

2 

18-30  in. 

30-36  in. 

Bean  (pole  lima) 

1  pt.  —  150  ft. 

2 

30-36  in. 

36^8  in. 

Beet 

1  oz.  —  75  ft. 

4-6 

12-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Cabbage  (early) 

1  oz.  —  5,000  plants 

4-5 

20-28  in. 

24-30  in. 

Cabbage  (late) 

1  oz.  —  300  ft. 

4-5 

24-32  in. 

36-42  in. 

Cabbage  (Chinese) 

1  oz.  —  300  ft. 

4-5 

18-24  in. 

24-28  in. 

Carrot 

1  oz.  —  400  ft. 

2-3 

12-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Cauliflower 

1  oz.  —  5,000  plants 

4-5 

24-30  in. 

36-42  in. 

Celery 

1  oz.  —  8,000  plants 

3-5 

20-24  in. 

24-48  in. 

Chicory 

1  oz.  —  300  ft. 

5-6 

12-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Corn  (sweet) 

1  pt.  —  300  hills 

2 

30-36  in. 

36-42  in. 

Cucumber 

1  oz.  —  50  hills 

5-10 

4-  5  ft. 

4-  5  ft. 

Eggplant 

1  oz.  —  2,000  plants 

3-5 

24        in. 

30-36  in. 

Endive 

1  oz.  —  400  ft. 

3-5 

14-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Horseradish 

Root  cuttings 

24-30  in. 

30-36  in. 

Kale 

1  oz.  —  300  ft. 

4-5 

15-24  in. 

24-30  in. 

Kohlrabi 

1  oz.  —  300  ft. 

4-5 

15-24  in. 

24-28  in. 

Leek 

1  oz.  —  150  ft. 

1 

12-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Lettuce 

1  oz.  —  400  ft. 

3-5 

12-15  in. 

24-28  in. 

Muskmelon 

1  oz.  —  50  hills 

5-10 

4-  5  ft. 

4-  5  ft. 

Onion  (green) 

1  qt.  sets  —  40  ft. 

12-15  in. 

24-28  in. 

Onion  (late) 

1  oz.  seed  —  100  ft. 

1 

12-15  in. 

24-28  in. 

Onion  (for  sets) 

1  oz.  seed  —  25  ft. 

1 

12-15  in. 

24-28  in. 

Parsley 

1  oz.  —  200  ft. 

2-3 

12-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Parsnip 

1  oz.  —  200  ft. 

1 

15-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Pea 

1  pt.  to  1  qt.  —  100  ft. 

2-3 

16-30  in. 

36-48  in. 

Pepper 

1  oz.  —  1,500  plants 

2-3 

18-24  in. 

36^2  in. 

Potato  (white) 

ipk.  — 100  ft.,  15  bu. 
per  acre 

24-28  in. 

36^2  in. 

Radish 

1  oz.  —  100  ft. 

3-4 

6-14  in. 

24-28  in. 

Rhubarb 

Roots 

.30        in. 

36-42  in. 

Rutabaga 

1  oz.  —  200  ft. 

4-5 

15-20  in. 

24-28  in. 

Salsify 

1  oz.  —  100  ft. 

2-3 

12-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Spinach 

1  oz.  —  100  ft. 

2-3 

12-15  in. 

24-28  in. 

Spinach  (N.  Zeal'd) 

1  oz.  —  50  plants 

30-36  in. 

36-48  in. 

Squash  (summer) 

1  oz.  —  40  hills 

4-8 

3-  4  ft. 

3-  4  ft. 

Squash  (winter 

1  oz.  —  20  hills 

4-8 

8-10  ft. 

8-10  ft. 

Swiss  chard 

1  oz.  —  100  ft. 

4-6 

15-18  in. 

24-30  in. 

Tomato 

1  oz.  —  3,000  plants 

4-5 

t30-36  in. 

36-48  in. 

Turnip 

1  oz.  —  200  ft. 

4-5 

15-18  in. 

24-28  in. 

Watermelon 

1  oz.  —  20  hills 

4-8 

8-10  ft. 

8-10  ft. 

*  Planted  in  hills. 

t  Trained  to  stakes ;   without  staking,  4  ft.  apart  each  way. 

1  Very  hardy :    Not  injured  by  hard  freezing.  2  Hardy :  Not  injured  by  frosts. 

3  Tender :   Killed  by  frosts.  "  Very  tender :   Injured  by  cool  weather. 

312 


PLANTING  TABLE 


Plants 

Depth  of 

Time  of 

Apart  in 

Planting 

Hardiness 

Date  op  Planting 

Maturity 

Row 

Inches 

15-18  in. 

8-15 

Very  hardy  ^ 

April 

3-4  years 

2-  4  in. 

I-I2 

Tender  ^ 

May  10-July  25 

40-  65  days 

4-  Sin. 

I-I5 

Tender 

June  1-June  25 

90-100  days 

*2-  3  ft. 

1-U 

Tender 

May  15-June  15 

50-  75  days 

3-  6  in. 

1-U 

Very  tender  * 

May  20- June  10 

60-  75  days 

*2-  3  ft. 

1-U 

Very  tender 

May  20-June  1 

70-100  days 

3-  4  in. 

^-1 

Hardy  2 

April  15-July  10 

40-  70  days 

lS-18in. 

1-2 

Hardy 

^February  1-March  15 

70-120  days 

18-24  in. 

h 

Hardy 

TIM  ay  1-June  1 

90-130  days 

12 -15  in. 

i 

Hardy 

July  1-August  1 

80-100  days 

2-  3  in. 

l-l 

Hardy 

April  15-July  10 

55-  90  days 

18-24  in. 

i-5 

Hardy 

UMay  15- 

90-130  days 

4-  6  in. 

1 

Not  hardy —  , 
young 

JMarch  1 ;    IfLate,  April  20 

130-180  days 

3-  4  in. 

i 

Hardy 

June  1-15 

120-130  days 

*24-30  in. 

1-2 

Tender 

May  1-July  1 

70-100  days 

*2-  4  ft. 

1-1 

Tender 

Mav  20-June  1 

60-  80  days 

16-24  in. 

i-h 

Very  tender 

t§March  15 

100-150  days 

8-10  in. 

I 

Hardy 

June  1-August  1 

45-  90  days 

12-15  in. 

Very  nardy 

April  15-May  20 

180  days 

6-  8  in. 

h 

Hardy 

April  IS-August  1 

50-  75  days 

6-  Sin. 

i 

Hardy 

April  15  and  August  1 

60-  75  days 

3-  5  in. 

i 

Hardy 

TJApril  15- 

130-180  days 

8-10  in. 

I 

Hardy 

April  15  and  August  1 

45-100  days 

*4-  S  ft. 

-2-1 

Very  tender 

May  20 

90-120  days 

1        in. 

Hardy 

April  15 

30-  40  days 

1        in. 

^ 

Hardy 

April  15 

130-150  days 

Crowded 

^ 

Hardy 

April  15 

90-100  days 

4-  6  in. 

i 

Hardy 

April  15 

60-  90  days 

3-  4  in. 

i-2 

Very  hardy 

April  15 

120-180  days 

h      in. 

1-2 

Hardy 

April  15-May  20 

50-  80  days 

2 

12-15  in. 

i-^ 

Very  tender 

t§March  15 

100-150  days 

10-14  in. 

3-4 

Half  hardy 

April  15-June  1 

80-130  days 

1-  2  in. 

i 

Hardy 

April  15-June  1 

22-  40  days 

24-30  in. 
4-  Sin. 
2-  3  in. 

1 

Very  hardy 
Hardy 
Verv  hardy 

April 
July  1 
April  15 

1  year 
100-120  days 
140-150  days 

4-  6  in. 

1 

Hardy 

April  15-May  15  &  Aug.  1-lC 

40-  60  days 

12-18  in. 

1 

Half  hardy 

April  15 

60-  80  days 

*3-  4  ft. 

1 

Tender 

May  20 

60-  80  days 

*8-10  ft. 

1 

Tender 

May  20 

90-110  days 

5-  6  in. 

^-1 

Hardy 

April  15 

50-  60  days 

tl8-24  in. 
3-  4  in 

2   -^ 

Tender 

JMarch  1-April  1 

100-160  days 

i 

Hardy 

April  15  and  August  1-15 

60-  90  days 

8-10  ft 

1 

Very  tender 

June  1 

100-120  days 

Jin  hotbed  or  greenhouse.     Transplanted  to  permanent  place  :   §  June  1 
Prepared  bv  John  R.  Bechtel. 
Published  in  Extension  Circular  No.  76  of  The  Pennsylvania  State  CoUege. 

313 


llJulyl. 


INDEX 


Accounts,  xiii 
Artichoke,  Jerusalem,  267 
Artichoke,  Globe,  267 
Asparagus,  267 

Why  grow  asparagus,  269 

Selecting  location,  269 

Selecting  varieties,  270 

Starting  the  plants,  270 

Preparing  the  soil,  271 

Planting,  272 

Cultivating,  274 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  275 

Maintaining  fertility,  276 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  277 


B 


Beans,  247 

Why  grow  beans,  248 

Selecting  location,  249 

Classifying    and    selecting    varieties, 
249 

Obtaining  seed,  251 

Preparing  soil,  251 

Planting  field  beans,  253 

Planting  dwarf,  snap,  and  green  shell 
beans,  254 

Planting  pole  beans,  255 

Planting  Uma  beans,  256 

Cultivating.  256 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  257 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  259 
Broccoli,  88 
Brussels  sprouts,  88 
Bulb  crops  projects,  228 
Bulletins  and  other  references,  xix 


Cabbage,  88 

Why  grow  cabbage,  90 
Selecting  location,  90 
Choosing  varieties,  91 
Obtaining  seed,  92 


Constructing  the  hotbed,  94 
Constructing  the  cold  frame,  94 
Making  plant  boxes,  94 
Making  straw  mats,  94 
Sowing  for  the  early  crop,  94 
Caring  for  the  seedUngs,  96 
Transplanting,  97 
Hardening  the  plants,  98 
Growing  late  plants,  98 
Preparing  the  garden  soil,  99 
Planting  in  the  garden,  101 
Companion  cropping,  102 

Cultivating,  103 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  103 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  108 

Storing  the  late  crop.  109 
CauUflower,  110 

Importance  of  crop,  112 

Selecting  location,  112 

Choosing  varieties,  113 

Obtaining  seed,  113 

Starting  plants,  114 

Preparing  soil,  115 

Planting  in  the  garden,  115 

Companion  cropping,  115 

Cultivating,  116 

Protecting  heads,  116 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  116 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  116 
Celery,  118 

Why  grow  celery,  120 

Selecting  location,  121 

Choosing  varieties,  123 

Obtaining  seed,  124 

Constructing  the  hotbed,  125 

Constructing  the  cold  frame,  125 

Making  plant  boxes,  126 

Making  straw  mats,  126 

Sowing  for  the  early  crop,  126 

Caring  for  the  seedUngs.  127 

Growing  late  plants,  128 

Preparing  the  soil,  128 

Planting  in  the  garden.  130 

Companion  cropping.  131 

Irrigating  the  crop,  132 


315 


316 


INDEX 


Cultivating,  132 

Mulching,  133 

Blanching,  133 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  135 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  137 

Storing  the  late  crop,  138 
Cive,  228 

Cole  crops  projects,  88 
CoUard,  88 
Corn  salad,  118 
Corn,  sweet,  283 
Cress,  118 
Cucumbers,  151 

Will  cucumbers  pay,  153 

Selecting  location,  154 

Choosing  varieties,  154 

Obtaining  seed,  155 

Starting  early  plants,  156 

Preparing  the  soil,  157 

Transplanting  into  the  garden,  159 

Planting  seed  in  the  garden,  160 

Companion  cropping,  161 

Cultivating,  161 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  161 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  163 

Forcing,  164 


D 


Demonstrations,  xiv 


Early  plants,  where  to  grow,  xv 
Eggplant,  77 

Importance  of  crop,  78 

Selecting  location,  79 

Choosing  varieties,  79 

Starting  plants,  80 

Preparing  soil,  80 

Planting  in  the  garden,  82 

Combating  insects,  82 

Marketing,  83 
Endive,  118 
Exhibits,  xiv 

G 

Garden,  the  home,  294 
Garlic,  228 


Home  garden  project,  293 
How  to  use  this  book,  xv 


I 

Inspection  trips,  xiv 


Judging  vegetables,  xiv 


Laboratory  exercises,  2-35 
Leek,  228 
Lettuce,  140 

Why  grow  lettuce,  141 

Selecting  location,  142 

Choosing  varieties,  143 

Obtaining  seed,  144 

Constructing  the  hotbed,  144 

Constructing  the  cold  frame,  144 

Making  plant  boxes,  145 

Making  straw  mats,  145 

Starting  early  plants,  145 

Preparing  the  soil,  146 

Planting  in  the  garden,  146 

Sowing  in  the  garden,  148 

Companion  cropping,  148 

Irrigating,  149 

Cultivating,  149 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  149 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  150 

Forcing,  150 

M 

Making  the  home  garden,  293 
Why  have  a  home  garden,  294 
Selecting  location,  294 
When  to  plant,  295 
What  to  plant,  296 
How  much  to  plant,  297 
Making  garden  plans,  300 
Obtaining  seed,  303 
Making  germination  tests,  303 
Starting  early  plants,  304 
Selecting  tools,  305 
Preparing  the  soil,  305 
Planting,  305 
Cultivating,  307 
Hoeing,  307 
Weeding,  307 
Thinning,  308 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  308 
Harvesting  the  crops,  311 
Storing  the  late  crops,  311 


INDEX 


317 


Martynia,  283 
Muskmelon,  164 

Will  muskmelons  pay,  166 

Selecting  location,  166 

Choosing  varieties,  167 

Obtaining  seed,  168 

Starting  early  plants,  168 

Preparing  the  soil,  168 

Transplanting  into  the  garden,  168 

Planting  seed  in  the  garden,  168 

Companion  cropping,  168 

Cultivating,  168 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  169 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  169 


Okra,  283 
Onion,  228 

Why  grow  onions,  230 

Selecting  location,  231 

Choosing  varieties,  232 

Obtaining  seed  and  sets,  234 

Starting  plants  under  glass,  234 

Preparing  the  soil,  235 

Planting  sets,  237 

Sowing  in  the  field,  238 

Transplanting  hotbed-grown  plants, 
239 

Cultivating,  240 

Weeding,  241 

Thinning,  241 

Irrigating,  241 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  241 

Harvesting  mature  bulbs,  244 

Storing,  245 

Marketing,  246 


Parsley,  118 
Peas,  259 

Why  grow  peas,  260 

Selecting  location,  261 

Classifj-ing  and  selecting  varieties,  261 

Obtaining  seed,  262 

Preparing  the  soil,  262 

Planting,  263 

Companion  cropping,  264 

Cultivating,  264 

Supporting  the  \-ines,  264 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  266 
Peppers,  83 


Perennial  vegetable  projects,  267 
Planting  table,  312-313 
Potatoes,  200 

Why  grow  potatoes,  202 

Selecting  location,  203 

Choosing  varieties,  205 

Obtaining  seed,  206 

Preparing  the  soil,  207 

When  to  plant,  209 

Cutting  the  tubers,  210 

Planting,  211 

Cultivating,  212 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  213 

Harvesting,  219 

Storing  and  marketing,  220 
Potatoes,  sweet,  220 

Why  grow  sweet  potatoes,  222 

Selecting  location,  222 

Choosing  varieties,  223 

Obtaining  seed,  223 

Starting  plants,  224 

Preparing  the  soil,  224 

Planting,  225 

Cultivating,  226 

Harvesting,  226 

Storing  and  marketing,  227 
Principles  as  well  as  practice,  xiii 
Program  of  work,  xi 
Project  outline,  xiii 
Pulse  crops  projects,  247 
Pumpkin,  174 

R 

Records,  xiii 
Reference  key,  svii 
Reports,  xiii 
Rhubarb,  278 

Why  grow  rhubarb,  279 

Selecting  location,  279 

Selecting  variety,  279 

Preparing  the  soil,  280 

Planting,  280 

Cultivating,  280 

Maintaining  fertility,  280 

Forcing,  281 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  282 
Root  crops  projects,  180 

S 

Salad  crops  projects,  118 
Selection  of  projects,  xi 
Shallot,  228 


318 


INDEX 


Solanaceous  crops  projects,  37 
Special  explanation,  xv 
Squash,  173 

Will  squashes  pa3%  176 

Selecting  location,  176 

Choosing  varieties,  176 

Obtaining  seed,  176 

Starting  plants,  176 

Preparing  the  soil,  176 

Transplanting  into  the  garden,  177 

Planting  seed  in  the  garden,  178 

Cultivating,  178 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  178 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  178 
Sweet  corn,  283 

Why  grow  sweet  corn,  285 

Selecting  location,  286 

Choosing  varieties,  286 

Preparing  the  soil,  287 

Planting,  288 

Starting  early  plants,  289 

Cultivating,  289 

Suckering,  289 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  291 

Combating  insects,  290 


Tomatoes,  37 

Why  grow  tomatoes.  39 
Selecting  location,  40 
Choosing  varieties,  41 
Obtaining  seed,  43 
Constructing  the  hotbed,  44 


Constructing  the  cold  frame,  46 
Making  plant  boxes,  48 
Making  straw  mats,  50 
Sowing  seed,  51 
Caring  for  the  seedlings,  54 
Making  paper  pots,  58 
Transplanting,  59 
Hardening  the  plants,  63 
Preparing  the  garden  soil,  63 
Planting  in  the  garden,  66 
Planting  with  other  vegetables,  67 
Cultivating,  68 
Training  the  plants,  70 
Combating  insects  and  diseases,  71 
Harvesting  and  marketing,  75 
Tuber  crops  projects,  200 


Vine  crops  projects,  151 

W 

Watermelons,  170 

Will  watermelons  pay,  171 

Selecting  location,  171 

Choosing  varieties,  171 

Obtaining  seed,  172 

Starting  plants,  172 

Preparing  the  soil.  172 

Transplanting  into  the  garden.  173 

Planting  seed  in  the  garden.  173 

Cultivating  173 

Combating  insects  and  diseases,  173 

Harvesting  and  marketing,  173 


nOrERTY  LIBURY 

H.  C.  State  College 


